Lever vs allen bolt thru axles
#26
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My new bike is the only one I've ever had with TA.
The TAs have handles that pull out from inside the TAs so they look clean with no protruding handles while not requiring any tools to remove/install.
Can't say I have a preference as these are the only ones I've ever had and haven't even used them yet. lol
One weird thing is that my forks have a "blind hole" on the drive side - from the drive side there is no visible axle component.
The TAs have handles that pull out from inside the TAs so they look clean with no protruding handles while not requiring any tools to remove/install.
Can't say I have a preference as these are the only ones I've ever had and haven't even used them yet. lol
One weird thing is that my forks have a "blind hole" on the drive side - from the drive side there is no visible axle component.
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It would be funny if it weren't so sad: for decades bikes have had q/r front and rear, and tire removal/re-installation was a no brainer. You are seriously telling me that in the 21st Century, cyclists once again need a (allen) wrench to remove wheels, like in the (bad) old days of threaded axles? Just say it ain't so!
Last edited by Koyote; 05-19-23 at 07:59 AM.
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Sounds like the TA still provided the bigger weight savings.
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I thought I'd miss the old quick release skewer's we had before thru-axles. My last new bike came with just a plain thru-axle that you have to use a allen key. Prior to purchasing it I thought for certain I wanted to get one of the thru-axles with the lever. However 3 years later I just simply have not ever been inconvenienced by not having QR's or a thru-axle with a lever. It's too quick and easy to to get the hex key from my bike bag under the seat or out of the tool box drawer when in the shop(garage).
And aesthetically the looks are more pleasing without the lever.
And aesthetically the looks are more pleasing without the lever.
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I want to find a different solution for the lever TAs on my gravel bike. On the opposite end of the lever, there is a knob for adjusting the clamping tension. It works great, and I like having the lever for efficient removal and reinstallation. However, the internal mechanical parts rattle, and it's annoying.
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
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I want to find a different solution for the lever TAs on my gravel bike. On the opposite end of the lever, there is a knob for adjusting the clamping tension. It works great, and I like having the lever for efficient removal and reinstallation. However, the internal mechanical parts rattle, and it's annoying.
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
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#32
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Originally Posted by Eric F
Recommendations?
DT RWS thru axle ?
more an option than recommendation - because I have not used the RWS axle for thru axles ... (I have used the DT RWS skewers however)
Recommendations?
DT RWS thru axle ?
more an option than recommendation - because I have not used the RWS axle for thru axles ... (I have used the DT RWS skewers however)
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There are (were?) issues with QR and discs, where, as I understand it, the contact point of the braking on the disc could cause the axle to loosen or even eject from the dropout. Partially from the forces from the brakes near the axle as opposed to the rim, and partially from the QRs not being strong enough or applied strong enough. That's just what I've read; no personal experience except with more current disc/QR designs ...
Hmmm, seems more like user error, to me. We (my wife and I) have been riding a tandem with disks and QR axles for about 10 years, and I have the front wheel on and off frequently to get it on the rack. I've never had a problem with the axle loosening under braking. The dropouts are standard vertical, not the forward facing ones (front).
However, I am looking forward to my new (single) bike, which will have disk brakes and a through axle, because I have noticed a little bit of fork flex/chatter during braking on the tandem. (It's noticeable, but not annoying and certainly not dangerous.) Suppo're sedly one of the advantages of the through axle set-up is that it reduces/eliminates fork flex under braking.
However, I am looking forward to my new (single) bike, which will have disk brakes and a through axle, because I have noticed a little bit of fork flex/chatter during braking on the tandem. (It's noticeable, but not annoying and certainly not dangerous.) Suppo're sedly one of the advantages of the through axle set-up is that it reduces/eliminates fork flex under braking.
#34
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I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
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I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
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I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
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I thought I'd miss the old quick release skewer's we had before thru-axles. My last new bike came with just a plain thru-axle that you have to use a allen key. Prior to purchasing it I thought for certain I wanted to get one of the thru-axles with the lever. However 3 years later I just simply have not ever been inconvenienced by not having QR's or a thru-axle with a lever. It's too quick and easy to to get the hex key from my bike bag under the seat or out of the tool box drawer when in the shop(garage).
And that's the one thins making me consider replacing the lever ones instead, although I can't tell exactly what size I need (I know I have 12x100 and 12x142, but they seem to vary in overall length and thread length). I could probably just measure mine, but that would require, you know, effort.
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I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
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#39
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I thought the QR skewers where under a lot of stress. I never paid much attention to them, But just Googled them for a more detailed look. I understand more about them now and feel more comfortable with them. Thanks.
Also most the stress on the axle is on the outside, So with a sufficient wall thickness little strength is lost if we bore a small hole in the center for the skewer.
Also most the stress on the axle is on the outside, So with a sufficient wall thickness little strength is lost if we bore a small hole in the center for the skewer.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 05-20-23 at 07:41 AM.
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I have to admit I have two for my Domane. I screwed up the threads on the the rear thru-axle the first week. The axle still worked but I could feel the messed up threads. I panicked and bought a new thru-axle from Trek which came with a handle/lever.
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That's pretty much how I feel. It just wasn't enough of an issue to go out and buy new ones.
And that's the one thins making me consider replacing the lever ones instead, although I can't tell exactly what size I need (I know I have 12x100 and 12x142, but they seem to vary in overall length and thread length). I could probably just measure mine, but that would require, you know, effort.
And that's the one thins making me consider replacing the lever ones instead, although I can't tell exactly what size I need (I know I have 12x100 and 12x142, but they seem to vary in overall length and thread length). I could probably just measure mine, but that would require, you know, effort.
of course - always a good idea to pull the axle and determine if the specs are printed on the axle
(gotta be diligent - some bikes use different thread / pitch on front and rear ... i.e. 1.5 thread on front, 1.0 thread on rear)
Last edited by t2p; 05-20-23 at 10:21 AM.
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#43
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Clean looks good imo. I would like to have a TA, seat post hardware, stem cap bolt, & stem bracket bolts to use the same size allen key.
that's asking too much.
that's asking too much.
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They are different sized threads and therefore different fastening torque. A 4 mm Allen key for a TA is too small and would risk rounding off at the correct torque.
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it wouldn't "round" out if the depth was far enough for the key to go into the head for the aforementioned hardware. Also, the torque values are not thar extreme in the grand scheme of things.
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I have LAD's ("Leverage Application Devices") on my Surly Disc Trucker. I like them because I can do an easy quick-check on tightness before each ride.
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Last edited by drlogik; 05-20-23 at 02:15 PM.
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All the TA bikes I have with QR-style cams are really awkward to actuate. There is always some trick required to unthread them. I fail to fully understand why making it more difficult makes it safer, I think the opposite is true. It seems like on production bike TA's with a hex head are winning. I always carry a multi-tool in the same bag as the tube, so it's no big deal. And with tubeless, flats are a lot less frequent.
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I get the availability of why, but it would require an engineer to hybrid hardware thread designs to match a single head key size.
it wouldn't "round" out if the depth was far enough for the key to go into the head for the aforementioned hardware. Also, the torque values are not thar extreme in the grand scheme of things.
it wouldn't "round" out if the depth was far enough for the key to go into the head for the aforementioned hardware. Also, the torque values are not thar extreme in the grand scheme of things.
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make it all 6mm then, it doesn't matter as long as they're accepting the same key head.
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