xRyan

Hello all!

I bought a schwinn 754 frame online the other day and boy I found myself kind of regretting it. First off it didn't come with the original quill seat post, but I got to googling and made one myself for about $10!
Anyways the paint is pretty beat up and I feel I might have to patch up a few deep scratches, the decals don't look to good, and there's a bunch of old sticker residue that I'm finding really hard to take off. This frame will most likely end up being my primary bike, i plan on doing some duathlons!

What do you guys and gals think I should do? Strip it and have it powder coated or just ride it as is?

While I have this post up there's somthing else I'd like some opinions on, what groupset should I use for my sprint bike?

I have a campy veloce group 2×10 nice quality but weights a little more (53 big chain ring)

Or

Shimano sora 3500 2x9 compact crank, lower quality lower weight? Opinions?

Here's some pics!

VanLogan

We need to see pictures...

cbrstar

This thread needs a pic!

Kevindale

+1 on pictures, though I can tell you now what most here will say: keep the old finish, clean it up, use a little goof off or something like that on the residue (carefully, or it remove more than the sticker residue), remove the rust, wax it, ride it. Just a wild guess.

For your sprint bike, which of those options has the best gearing for the way your ride? On a sprint bike I can't imagine a few grams will make any difference, so I'd pick whichever looks best on the bike, and shifts best, and has the gearing you need.

Chrome Molly

Given it's aluminum, I'd work on touching it up as much as possible. For sticker goo, there's goof off or the like kind of remover that with a little patience can do the job well.

If that doesn't work out, then having it stripped and powder coated is probably the next best option. The 754 is a nice enough frame to be worth the effort either way. If you're really going to be doing duathlon's with it, then function wins over pretty any day.

xRyan

Hey guys I'm having a hard time uploading photos from my phone, i keep gettimg error messages. I'll try photo bucket

CliffordK

There is a size limit on photos... I do all of my uploading from the laptop machine (paper clip icon).

Keep in mind that most of the older bikes weren't originally powder coated. A good automotive paint should be fine.

I'd rather have a battered bike with original decals to having a repainted bike with no decals. But... there are aftermarket decals for most bikes, or perhaps you could make your own.

Then it depends on your goals... for an everyday rider/commuter, a moderate amount of "patina" is just fine, and may even be preferable.

For a show bike, there is a trade-off between original and battered.

I really like the Campy and aero cable routing. But, it is up to you. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other.

Oh... I'm also a big ring rider (and itty-bitty rear sprocket rider).

Best if you can choose wheels to match your groupset.

xRyan

Here's the link to photobucket aBlum, as soon as I get a hold of my laptop I'll direct link them

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://s376.photobucket.com/user/xRyan/embed/slideshow/"></iframe>

xRyan

Some here, I really like the routing on the Campy levers, I'm leaving towards using that set. I would think the matching campy wheels set is out of my price range for now I'll be running some Easton wheels.

CliffordK

Campy freehubs are available for many non-Shimano wheels.

rfj

I would remove the residue and ride it as is.

Campagnerdo 

I also have a 754, mine has some minor paint issues. I have always toyed with the idea of stripping it and polishing the aluminum, a la some cannondales. I have a nice looking chrome replacement fork waiting for it, if I ever decide to commit to that plan.

DMC707

That Oakley decal is period correct and legit - very cool --- i'd leave it alone after removing any residue just to preserve that little time capsule


Also ---

maybe re-consider ever powder coating aluminum ---I would be concerned re-heating it in an oven to cure the powdercoat might affect the original tubing heat treat a bit ---- its the reason I held off on PC'ing a beat up Santa Cruz MTB

xRyan

Yeah I really digging the oakley sticker, I'm a big fan. Any suggestions on a goo remover that isn't to harsh?

Barchettaman

WD-40 and a microfibre cloth for goo removal.

Clean with a strong car shampoo solution and a washmitt or a microfibre cloth.

Dry thoroughly. Touch in any obvious paint dings with clear nail polish to prevent any water ingress under the paint.

Apply a cheap car wax. Buff.

Build up and ride, enjoy the patina, it's a beautiful frame.

9-speed Sora is nice stuff particularly when paired with Jagwire Road Pro cables and housing.

Prowler 

I'm a big 'get rid of that sticker' guy and have two go-to methods that have worked well.

a) hot air gun on warm. Start at a corner and peel back just enough to hold with needle nose pliers. Use the hot air gun set on warm and held back a ways to just warm the sticker so the adhesive releases nicely then pull slow and steady (don't tear the sticker) and most will lift quite well. I have to do this on all sorts of used bikes at my LBS job, all ages, all conditions and it works quite well - no damage to the paint as it's just warm, not hot.

b) odorless mineral spirits (aka paint thinner). The MS works well on old adhesive (much better than GooGone), just damp a paper towel and damp the goo. On stubborn old adhesive damp an old tooth brush and scrub it a bit. If you can get the old adhesive started the rest will come along better so I keep a bit of old Formica laminate around from an old kitchen counter project. Sand or file a sharp edge on the Formica. That material is harder than the dried, brittle adhesive but softer than paint so does not scratch the paint. And the MS lubricates the scraping which helps too. Scrape the adhesive some, wipe with the MS damp towel, repeat. Goes pretty quickly and the paint that was protected from the elements by the sticker generally looks good when you're done. Wash the area right after you're done then wax.

randyjawa 

Before you start doing anything, make sure you Test Ride the Bicycle. Once satisfied, then you can start spending and prettying the bicycle up. But first make sure it fits and rides properly.



Next ask yourself - Should I Paint My Bicycle?...

jimmuller 

I have no experience with frames like that and they hold little attraction for me (maybe because I've never ridden one) but I say just ride it and enjoy its experienced life. I have a few frames with various scars, seemingly getting worse year by year though I have no idea how. It's nice when a frame looks new-ish but that makes no difference to the riding.

sarahbruce

Once you get the residue/gunk off ( I like WD-40 and a little elbow grease), I suggest using a Magic Eraser (melamine foam) over the whole frame. It always surprises me how many scuffs/marks/? a Magic Eraser removes. Then follow up with a good wax and that bike would probably really look decent.
Bruce

FullGas

some googling reveals that at least one mfg (Kona) advises against PCing aluminum frames...

Kona Bikes - Frequent Questions

while there's some wear and tear on the current finish, it should look ok with some time and effort to clean it up.

Lascauxcaveman 

Interesting that they think their frames are so delicate they can't hold up to PC baking temps, what 375°?

Don't people around here routinely get their Cannondales PC'ed?

SkyDog75

The temper of aluminum alloys can be negatively affected by regular powder coating temperatures. To powder coat one of these alloys, you'd want to use a "low bake" (lower temperature) powder.

noglider 

I found pictures of the seatpost I made for a similar model.

repechage

I vote ride as is. There was a frame on ebay without seat post… the most strategic part needed.

AlexCyclistRoch

You know, there is a thing called "rat rodding" where people take old, far-from-pristine cars, and try to preserve the surface rust; they even clear-coat over the rust sometimes, or just resort to rubbing diesel fuel into the rust to preserve it. I hope this catches on for bike frames.....