Drop Bars: Shifting While in the Drops
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
Drop Bars: Shifting While in the Drops
Hi guys,
So I have a problem when shifting into the big ring on my crankset. I have no trouble shifting my rear derailleur because the shifts are much smaller in leverage, however because of the leverage needed to get a proper shift for the front derailleur, I sometimes end up pulling the brakes while trying to shift up.
I have come up with 3 reasons why this may be happening:
Maybe I'm over thinking things, but this issue has made is harder for me to comfortably use the drop position as a means of granting better control over my bike.
For those asking:
So I have a problem when shifting into the big ring on my crankset. I have no trouble shifting my rear derailleur because the shifts are much smaller in leverage, however because of the leverage needed to get a proper shift for the front derailleur, I sometimes end up pulling the brakes while trying to shift up.
I have come up with 3 reasons why this may be happening:
- Because my hand sometimes feels cramped when I try and shift from the drops, I should increase my stem length.
- I need to adjust when I shift, so I should only shift up when I am closer to my smallest gears.
- I should shift into the big ring only when I am riding on the hoods, and only shift down for my big ring when I'm in the drops.
Maybe I'm over thinking things, but this issue has made is harder for me to comfortably use the drop position as a means of granting better control over my bike.
For those asking:
Last edited by DarKris; 05-10-16 at 09:22 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
Explain?
Last edited by DarKris; 05-09-16 at 02:04 PM.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: D'uh... I am a Cutter
Posts: 6,139
Bikes: '17 Access Old Turnpike Gravel bike, '14 Trek 1.1, '13 Cannondale CAAD 10, '98 CAD 2, R300
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1571 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
I prefer a less aggressive handlebar position myself. My bars are kept or adjusted to barely below my saddle. And the top of my bars are level to the hoods. I find the compact (less deep) bars to be the most comfortable.
Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: D'uh... I am a Cutter
Posts: 6,139
Bikes: '17 Access Old Turnpike Gravel bike, '14 Trek 1.1, '13 Cannondale CAAD 10, '98 CAD 2, R300
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1571 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
I can't imagine a couple tenths of an inch would make a noticeable difference. If the bar is level, the levers are properly positioned, and you don't have "Trump hands"... you shouldn't be any more disadvantaged than anyone else.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,217
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,494 Times
in
7,317 Posts
DA 9000 front shifter will solve your problem. It's like butta'.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,217
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,494 Times
in
7,317 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
B. That said, I personally cannot afford to change my group set this soon considering that I built my bike 2 months ago.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Posts: 6,341
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 550 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times
in
226 Posts
Standard Campagnolo 8/9/10 speed ergo levers through the 2008 model year will run any front derailleur (double, triple, mountain tamer quad, daVinci quad), and can be paired to Shimano derailleurs/cassettes with a jtek shiftmate. Campagnolo 10 levers will also run SRAM road derailleurs without an adapter according to Lennard Zinn.
The left lever has 12 positions, with 3-4 used for Campagnolo doubles and 6-7 Campagnolo triples.
Ultrashift levers (2009-2010 Veloce and above, 2011+ Chorus and above 11 speed only) will also run triples with that sort of trim setup, but use 6 of 6 for Campagnolo triples and may come up short with other derailleurs.
Escape levers (2007-2008 Veloce/Centaur) have indexed front positions which should be less friendly to mix and match. PowerTap (all 10 speed and Athena made from 2011 on) may too.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-10-16 at 07:43 AM.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,217
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18397 Post(s)
Liked 15,494 Times
in
7,317 Posts
Well since I am not your personal accountant and you mentioned nothing about financial considerations in any of your posts, your snide answer to my original suggestion was uncalled for. Welcome to my iggy list.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 9,201
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1186 Post(s)
Liked 289 Times
in
177 Posts
I'd suggest new cables but you said you just built it a couple of months ago. Other than practice you could find someone with a higher grade (105+) of shifter and see if they shift easier. Better, low friction, cables might help. You could probably upgrade your shifters and front derailleur with some used ebay parts for a reasonable price.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,522
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1422 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
5 Posts
I prefer a less aggressive handlebar position myself. My bars are kept or adjusted to barely below my saddle. And the top of my bars are level to the hoods. I find the compact (less deep) bars to be the most comfortable.
Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
Especially older, deeper TRACK bars.
But yes, the size and form factor definitely favor a compact bar with integrated shifters.
Uh no, not at all. 9000/6800/5800 Front shifters only work correctly with the latest generation of front derailleurs.
After that it's just a matter of putting a lot of ape knuckles behind the push when moving the lever from the drops.
Last edited by andr0id; 05-10-16 at 07:41 AM.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
I mean you did assume that I could afford DA w/o asking first. In my opinion that is just as bad, if not worse.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 549
Bikes: Focus Arriba, Specialized Roubaix Expert, Bianchi Impulso Allroad
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 82 Times
in
53 Posts
You are definitely overthinking this.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.
#24
Banned
It's long been Bar End shifters for Me.
This is Probably Accurate.
confirmed ..
Want to re tape the bars? Move the lever even higher on the bars so that bend behind the lever is closer ?
and turn the bar down a bit more ..
I'm over thinking things
but still not perfect though.
Want to re tape the bars? Move the lever even higher on the bars so that bend behind the lever is closer ?
and turn the bar down a bit more ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-10-16 at 09:40 AM.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 619
Bikes: Kona Kahuna DL Drop Bar - Sensah SRX Pro 1x11 (2012 Frame), Giant Toughroad GX 1 - Shimano Road Hydro + SLX 1x10 (2018), Diamondback Sync'r - SRAM NX 1x12 (2020)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
54 Posts
This.
You are definitely overthinking this.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.
I thought so. I have no problem with my RD Shift, but w. my FD my fingers tend to slip so as I push horizontally I end up pushing diagonally engaging my brakes.
Make sure you have your shifters in the right place first. Your handlebars should be relatively flat across the top. You should be able to ride the hoods with your wrists straight. That usually means the lever is going to point upward at maybe 20 degrees or so.
After that it's just a matter of putting a lot of ape knuckles behind the push when moving the lever from the drops.
After that it's just a matter of putting a lot of ape knuckles behind the push when moving the lever from the drops.