Removing pedals - what makes it difficult, sometimes?
05-10-16, 05:36 AM
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Removing pedals - what makes it difficult, sometimes?
I've packed our bikes for travel yesterday night. Removing pedals (shimano spd T780) from the crankset (xt 780) has been easy 3 times our of four. But in one case, I've had to use a 25 cm (10 inches) length of pipe in order to get enough leverage to "un seize" the fourth. No big deal since we were home, but would have been an issue had it happen on our return leg since I am not in the habit of carrying pipe lengths when I travel...
The treads were greased and I do not recall having gorilla tightened the pedals last time I went through the travel routine in reverse.
For now I'll just be extra careful not to tighten pedals too much when I reassemble them, and try to live a good life so my karma shouldn't involve stuck pedals. But if there is a trick, I'd be happy to learn about it...
The treads were greased and I do not recall having gorilla tightened the pedals last time I went through the travel routine in reverse.
For now I'll just be extra careful not to tighten pedals too much when I reassemble them, and try to live a good life so my karma shouldn't involve stuck pedals. But if there is a trick, I'd be happy to learn about it...
05-10-16, 06:26 AM
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Pedals are designed to self tighten as you ride.
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05-10-16, 06:59 AM
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I fit pedal washers, greased with Tef-Gel anti-seize as well as the threads, as I think it makes removal easier and also helps prevent marring the cranks. Also be sure that the male and female threads are clean as grit can cause jamming. Also a purpose-made pedal wrench is long enough for good leverage; an adjustable wrench will often not be sufficient.
05-10-16, 07:02 AM
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Sometimes, for me, it's just the angle on the flats makes it impossible to get the correct leverage on the pedals.
05-10-16, 07:15 AM
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Yes if you do not have the right angle trying to get leverage makes it worse, normally I try to have about 30'degrees difference between the crank arm & the pedal spanner with the pedal away from me.
05-10-16, 10:52 AM
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Use never seize. Grease may stop some corrosion but you will still have problems if its steel in aluminum. I always use never seize on anything I think I might have to take apart somewhere down the line.
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05-10-16, 11:01 AM
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One more thing. If your right pedal is that hard to remove, put the chain on the big chainring first. That way, if your wrench slips, you'll bugger up your hand less badly.
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05-10-16, 11:32 AM
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Oooo that's a good one. I'll have to do that next time. Usually I just use the palm of my hand on the wrench (don't wrap my fingers) so that if I do slip, it's to the outside of the wrench/chainrings.
05-10-16, 11:43 AM
#9
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I've packed our bikes for travel yesterday night. Removing pedals (shimano spd T780) from the crankset (xt 780) has been easy 3 times our of four. But in one case, I've had to use a 25 cm (10 inches) length of pipe in order to get enough leverage to "un seize" the fourth. No big deal since we were home, but would have been an issue had it happen on our return leg since I am not in the habit of carrying pipe lengths when I travel...
The treads were greased and I do not recall having gorilla tightened the pedals last time I went through the travel routine in reverse.
For now I'll just be extra careful not to tighten pedals too much when I reassemble them, and try to live a good life so my karma shouldn't involve stuck pedals. But if there is a trick, I'd be happy to learn about it...
The treads were greased and I do not recall having gorilla tightened the pedals last time I went through the travel routine in reverse.
For now I'll just be extra careful not to tighten pedals too much when I reassemble them, and try to live a good life so my karma shouldn't involve stuck pedals. But if there is a trick, I'd be happy to learn about it...
05-10-16, 07:40 PM
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More often a problem on pedals than have been undisturbed for a long time
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05-13-16, 06:11 AM
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I've had the same problem. I'm thinking of removing pedals once in while and recoat with anti seize. Good idea? Is a road bike.
05-13-16, 07:19 AM
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Park pedal wrench Professional Pedal Wrench | Park Tool and an assisting friend is used In LBS
occasionally.. Or stepping on the wrench, while bike on the ground...
will have to do that as E>W touring bikes get shipped back east again.
occasionally.. Or stepping on the wrench, while bike on the ground...
will have to do that as E>W touring bikes get shipped back east again.
05-13-16, 11:36 AM
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I use a wrench and tap with hammer also. Same principal as an impact tool, breaks it loose.
05-13-16, 09:19 PM
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I align the wrench so that I can use my foot to step down on the wrench, with the bike on the ground. Usually this is possible. Much more torque than hands, and if my foot slips, I'm wearing a shoe.
05-13-16, 10:34 PM
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For me, removing a pedal is a bit like installing a USB plug: I have to turn it 3 different directions.
05-13-16, 11:42 PM
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cheater bars.. uh not the brake kind. A combination wrench makes a good cheater in a pinch. You can break tools this way though. I know, it's not an answer to the question.
05-14-16, 11:19 AM
#20
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I always use anti-seize on pedals. Available at any auto parts store for $3-$4. Liberally apply to threads before assembly. Never have another stuck pedal again.
ITW Global Brands 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant-1OZ ANTI-SEIZE LUBE - Walmart.com
ITW Global Brands 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant-1OZ ANTI-SEIZE LUBE - Walmart.com
