Cruiser Handlebar Dimensions
12-07-13, 11:02 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northern Mexico (Central Kalifornia)
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Cruiser Handlebar Dimensions
I saw the post "Cheap alternative to Nitto Bosco bar?" and it reminded me of when I was trying to figure out which bar to go with when I was about to Cruiserfy an old MTB/Comfort bike.
I don't know if this will help anyone, but it sure would have helped me a few years ago. The Reach dimension, how far the bar comes back towards you is really good to know. I listed grip length in case you were considering the feasibility of grip shifters, brake levers, bells etc...
Measurements are made with the top of the grip area being perfectly level and parallel to the ground, with no "rake" or typical "up-tilt".
Measurements are maximum dimensions. eg, Rise or "Up" is from the lowest part of your clamp area (in the center of the bar), to the top of the grip area, not a center-line, or an extended estimated line or anything like that.
I made the measurements by inverting the bar, laying it into a square jig and measuring with an adjustable square.
I don't know if this will help anyone, but it sure would have helped me a few years ago. The Reach dimension, how far the bar comes back towards you is really good to know. I listed grip length in case you were considering the feasibility of grip shifters, brake levers, bells etc...
Measurements are made with the top of the grip area being perfectly level and parallel to the ground, with no "rake" or typical "up-tilt".
Measurements are maximum dimensions. eg, Rise or "Up" is from the lowest part of your clamp area (in the center of the bar), to the top of the grip area, not a center-line, or an extended estimated line or anything like that.
I made the measurements by inverting the bar, laying it into a square jig and measuring with an adjustable square.
Last edited by 1FJEF; 12-07-13 at 11:13 PM.
12-09-13, 08:50 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 3,084
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
This is awesome, 1fjef. I'll try to get around to measuring some cruiser bars i have lying around. I have some 828 and 867 bars on hand, so I can figure out how to get my methods to match yours....
12-09-13, 09:01 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northern Mexico (Central Kalifornia)
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yeah, it's nice to know, isn't it? I also think that these bars are surely made on more than one jig, so there may be some variation.
I have a square area, but you can use a strong cardboard box, cut the top & 2 sides so you have a corner. Turn the bar upside down, push the center stem area against one wall, touch the grip area to the other, put a phone book on the other grip area, look down & line the center area up with one card board wall & you're in business. A tri square, or something like it will help with rise.
The Wald 828 measures a 1/16" under as the center is 7/8" rather than 1", but I didn't note it in my diagram, it was so close overall.
I have a square area, but you can use a strong cardboard box, cut the top & 2 sides so you have a corner. Turn the bar upside down, push the center stem area against one wall, touch the grip area to the other, put a phone book on the other grip area, look down & line the center area up with one card board wall & you're in business. A tri square, or something like it will help with rise.
The Wald 828 measures a 1/16" under as the center is 7/8" rather than 1", but I didn't note it in my diagram, it was so close overall.
