mynewnchome

Home type maintenance.

Buy individually as needed or one of the kits? Quality levels?

And.......go.

markwesti

Depends on what and how much you are wrenching on . I would say that if you don't really have anything now , get a general kit and then go from there . Also , I wish I had done this years ago , get a work stand . Here is the one I bought a little while back , surprisingly it is excellent quality .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-Portabl...72.m2749.l2649

HillRider

Home maintenance can range from just topping up your tires to a complete stripping down to a bare frame , bearing disassembly and service, drive train parts replacement and final rebuilding and adjustment. What level of service do you have in mind?

ljsense

Get a set of metric allen wrenches, a set of tire levers, and a can of lube.

hcgaloi

If you are near a Performance Bike store, it's a good opportunity to get a kit due to store closing.

Cheers

robertorolfo

Depends on what you are looking to do.

And... go

aggiegrads

A floor pump if you don't already have one.

MarcusT

I bought one of those 30 pc kits for $50. It was good for about 10 yrs, then some of the tools started to wear out. I started to replace the worn out tools with quality (Park, etc) because they are the ones I use the most. Do not skimp on allen wrenches, buy the best you can
Just make sure the tools you buy work for your bikes. There are still kits out there that have out of date tools

mynewnchome

I already have a stand, got it last year from, of all places, Aldi. Surprisingly good quality. Just wanting to dive more info maintenance and repairs. I have a mechanical background.

TakingMyTime

If it's a one off repair on either a bike or something around the house I'll pick up the cheapest solution at Harbor Freight Tool. That's not to say all their stuff is junk, it's just that I can get it there the cheapest. I've had great success with Craftsman and Kobalt tools. But with that said, the majority of my tools are for light home and bike repair use. Nothing is getting abused.

pdlamb

Start with these, then pick up other things if/as you need them. I'd add a chain tool to the beginning list.

Most of the time it's worth getting quality tools (Park, Pedros, etc.). If it's truly going to be a one-off job, it's often cheaper to let the mechanic at your LBS do it than to buy the tool yourself. (It's also a good way to build a relationship there, so when you walk in the eyes of the mechanics all light up and they run to see what "interesting" problem you've got this time.)

Some things, like wheel truing, take a bit to buy all the tools you may need -- spoke wrench, truing stand, tensiometer, not to mention "The Bicycle Wheel" by Brandt so you know what to do with it all. (Yes it's possible to do without all those except the spoke wrench. Nevertheless, once you've got them, you'll see the value.) But it's not hard, once you've collected everything and fixed a few wheels, to do a better job than most mechanics.

Retro Grouch 

1. It doesn't take very many special tools to work on modern bikes. You'll be surprised at how much you can accomplish with just a 5 mm Allen wrench.

2. When you're in the middle of a project, it's a nuisance to not have a tool that you need: chain tool, cable cutter, cassette locking tool or chain whip. I'd recommend acquiring all of those right from the start and I'd spend the extra money to get good quality ones. A cable cutter that cuts all but one strand is a PITA for as long as you own it.

nfmisso

A belt sander or bench grinder or motor tool with cutoff wheel or angle grinder to freshen hex keys. Be careful to keep the hex cool when you shorten it.

fietsbob

Park tools instant shop go .. yourself..

ljsense

This photo is helpful, and you're in luck -- every adjustment necessary on this bike can successfully be performed by a single hammer of any quality.

elcraft

Random Tandem

I have bought many used or cheap tools over the years and often they have been at least adequate, and allowed me to keep my modest budget. I did find that buying a top quality cable cutter (both inner cables and housings) was a good investment. Connecting with a local bike coop can also allow you to not purchase the tools you only need on rare occasions.

-Will

grayEZrider

THE three most important tools you will need:
Work stand.
Good cable cutters/
Shortcut Icon on your computer to the Park Tool DIY videos.
PS- don't forget the beer...

rm -rf

The tool kits always have some tools that will never be used on your bike. And the quality of the usable tools can vary a lot. For some things, a very inexpensive tool is fine, but some tasks need a better versi

From an older thread, here's my list of tools from 2015. 2019 edits in red.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tool sets: I never use cone wrenches any more. And there's lots of different bottom brackets and crank tools. You want to get the correct ones for your bike.
Most of my tools aren't in these sets!

For my bike: (We'll see if other commenters have different ideas.)
I enjoy working on my bike. So I buy tools as needed.

A repair stand. They are expensive, but last forever. Every repair or adjustment is easier with one.
Your inexpensive one is fine. Always clamp the seatpost, not the frame itself.

Chain breaker tool and quick links to rejoin the chain. New 10 or 11 speed chains are fussy about installing the new pin correctly. The quick links avoid all that. I've used Connex 10 speed links, which are strong and very easy to connect and disconnect. For 11-speed, I use Sram powerlinks.
The small Park CT-5 mini tool was all I needed, but it doesn't have enough leverage for 11-speed chains (I had to hold the handle with an adjustable wrench.) I got the sturdy CT-3.2, more costly, but much easier, and it'll last forever.
A good metal ruler for measuring chain wear. I have one of the chain checkers, but the ruler is more accurate.

Cable cutter (including a crimp end tool--most of these do.) and a bag of cable crimps.
A bike cable cutter tool is kind of expensive, but it cuts cleanly. I've had the Park Tool CN-10 cutter for years now. Don't try electrician diagonal cutters--it'll just fray the end of the cable. People claim to use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut cables, but my experiments were complete failures.
Dremel to grind off the ends of the cut cable housing. You might be able to use a file, but that's really slow, and a Dremel has lots of other uses.

4-5-6 mm Y wrench
A set of hex wrenches--the loose L ones work better- good leverage and can fit into tight places, but a set that folds out of a handle is okay.
I also have a set of 3, 4, 5 mm hex screwdriver handled, so I can start and spin on the bolts easier.
I use the Y wrench, the 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm L wrenches, and the 4mm, 5mm screwdriver handled wrenches the most.
Yes--I have 4 different types of hex wrenches, including the screwgun hex set! But I started with a set of L wrenches.
Don't get the "dollar store" cheap no-name hex wrenches. A good set will be accurate and won't round the edges off.

A bottom bracket tool and any tool required to remove your cranks. It depends on your cranks and bottom bracket styles. Sometimes the crank area gets creaking or clicking noises, and it's good to disassemble, clean and grease it.
My Shimano crankset needs a 5mm L wrench and an inexpensive plastic preload tool.
Or you might remove the crankset so you can reach in and turn the bearings by hand to see if they are worn out. They may be press fit to replace them, and that's a good job for a bike store.

Pedal wrench. My pedals use an 8 mm long handled hex wrench, there aren't any of the usual 15mm flats on my pedals.
So, either a long 8mm (perhaps from Harbor Freight? but I like the Pedro one, with a big plastic handle.), or a 15mm pedal wrench.

Black handle Park Tool spoke wrench. This is the correct size for my spoke nipples. Not those cheap cast Y spoke wrenches.
I have a Park Tool tension meter and a truing stand, since I like working on wheels and have built a couple of wheels. Optional otherwise.

Torque wrench. An inexpensive 5 nm preset one can work okay, but I like the Park Tool beam wrenches. I have the smaller one, from 0 to 7 nm. Mine needed separate adapters to fit screwgun ends. I have a set of hex ends to use with the torque wrench. I like this better than the small 5nm preset bike tools
Carbon assembly paste in a tube. This works great on seatposts and on handlebar clamps, even if they are aluminum. Much less torque is needed to hold it in place.

Blue Loktite thread locker. Mostly for bottle cage bolts and tail light bolts. I use grease on stem and seatpost bolts.

13mm sears/harbor freight open end wrench that fits the flats on my brakes, to hold them while the 5mm wrench tightens the bolt.

Cassette tool. Mine has a 1 inch hex outside, so I got a cheap 1 inch deep socket to fit it, and I can use a socket wrench. I already had an automotive sized torque wrench, so that's good when tightening the cassette, but it's probably not necessary.
Chain whip to use when removing the cassette.

Misc:
small flat blade screwdrivers.
I also use these like a miniature spackle knife, for dabbing grease or similar tasks.
small Phillips screwdrivers.
Torx bolts are becoming more common! I use a screwdriver handled T20 for my Campagnolo brakes. And I think a T25 is quite common, but check your own bike.
Diagonal cutters. Mostly for clipping zip ties. Terrible for cutting cables.
Pliers.
Flashlight.

3M electrical tape. Way better than the no-name tape.
3m Super 33 is best, and worth the extra cost.

Silver Sharpie pen for marking dark surfaces. I use this a lot! (rubbing alcohol takes it off)
bike grease in a tube.
Chain lube.
car wax for the paint.
90% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore for wiping off the chain, etc. Don't use this on certain plastics--it clouds & dulls some taillights, for example.
Odorless mineral spirits from the paint store for cleaning cassettes and getting grease off.

Keep a spare tube on hand. Keep an old worn tire on hand to use temporarily in case a tire is cut too bad to ride.
Tire levers Pedro levers are strong, and easy to use without pinching a tube.
Floor pump

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start:
L hex wrenches.
grease.
carbon assembly paste.
metal ruler.
chain tool and quick links.
spare tube.
tire levers
floor pump of course.
misc screwdrivers.
One of the comments above mentioned headset spacers. I've been trying different stem heights on my steerer tube, so a couple of spare 5mm spacers is good to have, to try different setups.

Add a torque wrench if possible. It's getting more critical. Most new mechanics aren't good at estimating the correct torques. EDIT--I've seen two different threads lately where the carbon steerer tube was cracked from too much torque on the stem bolts. At least get an inexpensive 5nm torque key.

If you like working on your bikes, get the repair stand. It'll really help.

Then these can be added later:

new shifter cables after two years. The back one tends to fray where it bends at the shifter. And new housing will help it shift smoother. So get the cutter, the cable set, and the crimp ends. A dremel really makes this easy--the cable housing is crushed or bent where it's cut by the cutters. Grinding it off flat with a Dremel is easy.
I'm picky about getting the cable housing just the right length. Bikes come with extra long housing to accomodate different bike setups. When I cut my own, I can go back and trim another bit off until it fits perfectly.

Creaking or cranks that don't spin easily: either take it to the bike shop, or get the tools to disassemble. My old bike had recurring creaking that was easily fixed by pulling the crank, wiping it off, and regreasing.

Wheels a little out of true, with brake pulsing: A spoke tool.

New cassette, either worn out (after maybe 3 to 5 years? ) or a different size wanted. Cassette tool and chain whip.

NoWhammies

@rm _rf great list. Thanks for sharing. I have a good idea/direction now on where to look. I have some tools but but listing is very helpful.

Where are you guys buying your tools from? LBS? Online? Regular hardware store? Other?

CliffordK

You missed a couple there.

What if the OP should need a Park FT-4 or a Park HTS-1?

I suppose it would be OK to use that one as a starter set.

fietsbob

I have some antique tools , such as a tool to hold a fixed cup wrench on by using the BB axle end. (and, say , hit the pedal wrench opposite end with a mallet)

& a Rollfast cast and machined adjustable spoke wrench , with a thumb wheel bolt to tighten it on nip faces..

CliffordK

Oh, spoke/nipple wrenches. The thorn in my side. Everyone seems to want to make something just a little different.

My latest purchase was one of these.

Shimano Road Wheels WH-M975-R Spoke PLUG WRENCH - Y4CK19000



Plus, still trying to figure out the best way to do anti-rotation of the spokes.

Anyway, perhaps the point is that one doesn't need to buy every tool that was ever made. Just get the tools that are needed at the moment for the bike one has.

That is, unless, one is actually building a bike shop.

veganbikes

If you plan on working on bikes a lot or are serious about cycling get the best tools you can. It can be expensive but buy in stages like I have been doing.

At the very very least buy a top quality set of allen keys/hex wrenches don't skimp on these as they will be quite handy all around. Also the one tool more people and shops should have and use is a JIS Screwdriver for Shimano derailleurs or a DSD-2 from Park.

Also of upmost importance, take care of your tools and the parts you are using them on. Don't be rough with anything, be gentle as can be for the task and be very conscious of what you are doing and don't rush. Do all of that and your tools will last longer and won't be as likely to break. Kids at the shop frequently brake chain pins because they rush and don't have any precision and don't care. It shouldn't be such a disposable item but a lot of people treat it that way when a little bit of time taken and being careful could save money over time.

garryg

I am fairly new to bike wrenching.Less than a year at it. I am working on C and V bikes. I was very happy to get a proper bike stand for xmas. I see the value in having good cable cutters.I bought a small kit and just add as i go.It is enjoyable and the tools are not really that expensive.cheers