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ISO and for trade thread part 5

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ISO and for trade thread part 5

Old 03-23-20, 08:37 PM
  #2176  
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Originally Posted by jonwvara View Post
Does anyone have a 46-tooth (or better yet, 47-tooth) Model 93-style 122 BCD chainring they'd consider exchanging with me? I have the pictured-below NOS factory-drillium ring in the same size and BCD that would be used on a 93, but would look a little odd. I'm pretty sure this version was styled for the Model 104 and/or Model 105.

If this wasn't NOS, I would probably go ahead and just install this on my project, style be damned. But it seems kind of a shame to plunder its NOSness on a utilitarian project when someone else around here might put it to more worthy use.

I will add that this ring is totally pristine--it came to me in its original plastic bag and has done nothing more stressful than hang on a nail since I unwrapped it a few weeks ago. Those little droplets on the surface in the photo are melted snowflakes from my photo session on the porch. It's snowing hard here right now, with a couple of inches on the ground already. "Jeezum crow," as we say in Vermont.

[Edit: Darn, can't get the photo to attach. I can email it to anyone who wants to see it, though.]
I have a 44t and a 45t, that have been cut down, Super Record style. PM me if you'd be interested.

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Old 03-24-20, 01:29 PM
  #2177  
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Originally Posted by natterberry View Post
Thanks guys! I’m super excited, it shall be brought back to glory.
You'll really enjoy it. I was able to acquire a 1971 Competition in the other short-lived color combination about 3 years back from Gordo-Trek. Mine actually came with Zeus Competicion dropouts.



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Old 03-25-20, 11:00 AM
  #2178  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Jon, I have a DS mod. 93 arm in decent shape you can have. The problem is that it has a ring attached because several chainring bolts are stuck in their sockets. I’ve been trying to remove them for years, literally, but no luck so far. Would that work?
Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.

Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the NUT (edit - I had mistakenly typed "bolt") and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.

Last edited by oneclick; 03-27-20 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 03-25-20, 11:59 AM
  #2179  
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.

Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
I'd be glad to try that except for two things: 1) I don't have a drill press. 2) I sent that crank arm to jonwvara , so I guess it's his problem now!
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Old 03-25-20, 02:08 PM
  #2180  
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Want to trade my 175mm RX100 road triple for a 170mm
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Old 03-25-20, 03:05 PM
  #2181  
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.

Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
I'm trying to visualize this, but am failing miserably. "though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt"? First, why drill through the crank arm? Second, how to drill through the bolt, but not into the bolt? I realize that I can be a bit snarky at times, but I promise, this is not one of them. Also, wouldn't using a good vise be simpler?
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Old 03-25-20, 06:05 PM
  #2182  
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
Here's how you get those chainring bolts apart.

Get a drill bit just the same or slightly smaller size than the slot on the back-side of the nut.
Mount the workpiece on a drill press and carefully drill a hole, centred in the slot, though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt. Measure and use a depth-stop.
Remove the crank, reverse the drill bit and stick the shank into the hole - through the nut into the crank arm. The nut is now locked to the crank arm and you can use all necessary force on the hex-key in the bolt-socket.
I can't quite picture that. Maybe what's confusing me is where you talk about drilling a hole "through the bolt and into the crankarm BUT NOT into the bolt."

As it happens, drilled them out fairly easily by clamping a set of vise grips on to the just-barely-protruding enough slotted heads on the back sides of the chainring bolts, and drilling through the hex-head side. Once you drill through 3mm or so, presto! The head comes right off and the remaining part of the nut/bolt assembly slips right out.

I don't think I described that very well, but maybe this is a problem that resists easily-described solutions.
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Old 03-26-20, 08:24 AM
  #2183  
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ISO a 36t 110BCD Biopace ring for my Colin Laing tandem.

Anybody got one lying around?
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Old 03-26-20, 07:13 PM
  #2184  
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk View Post
This one is going to Natterberry who asked for it second, and the first person declined to be able to get it. Thanks for saving this oldie but goody Natt! Smiles, MH
Originally Posted by bwilli88 View Post
I really really really wanted this but I have a Gran(d) Sport(s) coming from gugie after some of his gugification. I just had to pass, enjoy Natterberry I hope it rides well and fast.
Is it me or is the seat lug broken at the binder?
Ben
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Old 03-26-20, 07:23 PM
  #2185  
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Ben,
It is still here thanks to the lock down from Covid19. There is some rust under the braze on both sides of the seat stays as it looks to be a quick brazing with just the top of the braze being finished. It could also be a welded joint where the complete around the tube would not be necessary. All is solid though. Plenty of low grade rusting up there but clean-able. Smiles, MH
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Old 03-26-20, 08:43 PM
  #2186  
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Originally Posted by scarlson View Post
ISO a 36t 110BCD Biopace ring for my Colin Laing tandem.

Anybody got one lying around?
I have a black one, moderately worn but usable, IMO. Yours for shipping if you want it.
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Old 03-27-20, 10:05 AM
  #2187  
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Originally Posted by jonwvara View Post
I can't quite picture that. Maybe what's confusing me is where you talk about drilling a hole "through the bolt and into the crankarm BUT NOT into the bolt."

As it happens, drilled them out fairly easily by clamping a set of vise grips on to the just-barely-protruding enough slotted heads on the back sides of the chainring bolts, and drilling through the hex-head side. Once you drill through 3mm or so, presto! The head comes right off and the remaining part of the nut/bolt assembly slips right out.

I don't think I described that very well, but maybe this is a problem that resists easily-described solutions.
Yes, that'll work, but my way lets you keep the chainring bolt.

To help you see it, there is a three-layer sandwich.
The top layer is the flange of the rear part of the chainring bolt/nut combo, I called it the nut (edit: no I didn't, I called it the bolt - now fixed) above.
The middle layer is the crank-arm-spider.
The bottom layer is the flange of the outer part of the chainring bolt/nut combo, I called it bolt above.
(The whole assembly is upside-down on the press table.)
You drill in the slot because it will help the bit stay put and because the metal is thinner there, and because when you put it back together it won't show as much.
You drill through the top two layers, then put the shank in the hole.
This locks the nut to the arm, and lets the bolt free - when you give it enough welly with the hex key.

Last edited by oneclick; 03-27-20 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 03-27-20, 10:08 AM
  #2188  
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Originally Posted by USAZorro View Post
I'm trying to visualize this, but am failing miserably. "though the bolt and through the crank arm BUT NOT into the bolt"? First, why drill through the crank arm? Second, how to drill through the bolt, but not into the bolt? I realize that I can be a bit snarky at times, but I promise, this is not one of them. Also, wouldn't using a good vise be simpler?
Sorry - I should have said crank-spider-arm, and for second (perhaps better) description see previous post.
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Old 03-27-20, 10:25 AM
  #2189  
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Have Dawes Distinction brake hoods, want some little bits

These are rough but useable. I'm after pedal caps for Campy Victory/Triomphe, the nasty square-ended plastic ones, caps for Ofmega Sintesi pedals, a Gian Robert Competiton FD, any french dia top-tube brake cable clips...
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Old 03-27-20, 11:31 AM
  #2190  
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
These are rough but useable. I'm after pedal caps for Campy Victory/Triomphe, the nasty square-ended plastic ones, caps for Ofmega Sintesi pedals, a Gian Robert Competiton FD, any french dia top-tube brake cable clips...
Those look like the same white pvc-ish material as the white Carlton/Weinmann hoods. I bet those would clean up great with Magic Eraser.
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Old 03-27-20, 12:09 PM
  #2191  
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
Sorry - I should have said crank-spider-arm, and for second (perhaps better) description see previous post.
That does make more sense. Guess it might be a good strategy if my good friend (shown below) can't get the job done.


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Old 03-27-20, 03:00 PM
  #2192  
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Originally Posted by USAZorro View Post
That does make more sense. Guess it might be a good strategy if my good friend (shown below) can't get the job done.

I have had those, and they can break. Now I just make them from stainless table knives, heat and bend the end, cut the prongs to shape with a dremel cut-off wheel. When it breaks you dremel off the end and make another.

When you need to use such a pin-tool near the limit, clamp it to the chainring with a pair of wood blocks; have the back one overhang the whole tool, and the front one leave clearance for the hex key. It helps if you can brace the tool against another part of the crankset.
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Old 03-27-20, 03:13 PM
  #2193  
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ISO Early Shimano brake caliber 'cable pinch bolt nut' (??).

I bought a set of Shimano Dura Ace brake callipers off the Bay and they arrived with both callipers missing the nut to hold what i would call the 'brake cable pinch bolt' ( seen lower left in the following picture) MIA.

Can't just run off to the bolt supply store right now so does anyone out there have a couple of spares they could part with?

Question, would the bolt have metric threads?

TIA

Cheers.

Brad

Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr


Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr

Shimano pinch bolt nut by BJ Stevens, on Flickr
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Old 03-27-20, 04:22 PM
  #2194  
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Originally Posted by scarlson View Post
ISO a 36t 110BCD Biopace ring for my Colin Laing tandem.

Anybody got one lying around?
I probably do. I'll go check, then email you.
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Old 03-27-20, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by natterberry View Post
Thanks guys! I’m super excited, it shall be brought back to glory.
Natterberry,
I snuck out (under the radar) today. Picked up a shipping box left out on the back of one of our shops here in town, then packed it up. Again under the radar, I was able to get it to FED EX. It is on the way! One more item out of here, and hopefully the War Department will chill for a couple of days. Smiles, MH

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Old 03-27-20, 05:17 PM
  #2196  
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk View Post
Ben,
It is still here thanks to the lock down from Covid19. There is some rust under the braze on both sides of the seat stays as it looks to be a quick brazing with just the top of the braze being finished. It could also be a welded joint where the complete around the tube would not be necessary. All is solid though. Plenty of low grade rusting up there but clean-able. Smiles, MH
news, I like low grade rust.
We are on stay at home too...not sure if L.A. has no riding rule in effect so I guess if they are and I want to ride I will need to put a basket or wear a backpack in order to claim that I am going to the store.
Not making any light of the ruling...steel is real and so is the situation we all find ourselves in.
Ben
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Old 03-27-20, 06:48 PM
  #2197  
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Ben,
I'm making the best of it cleaning the shop and divesting all of the extra equipment from closing down my golf shop at the university. The Premis is gone, and the Raleigh now as well. Next is finding the top of my workbench. Smiles, MH
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Old 03-28-20, 09:52 AM
  #2198  
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Originally Posted by Mad Honk View Post
Natterberry,
I snuck out (under the radar) today. Picked up a shipping box left out on the back of one of our shops here in town, then packed it up. Again under the radar, I was able to get it to FED EX. It is on the way! One more item out of here, and hopefully the War Department will chill for a couple of days. Smiles, MH
That’s awesome, MH! Thanks again. Send over your paypal/etc so I can reimburse!

Also, sorry I missed your call! I’ve been working from home, lots of time spent on calls.
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Old 03-28-20, 08:50 PM
  #2199  
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Anybody have an Arai drum brake?
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Old 03-29-20, 02:22 PM
  #2200  
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ISO Long reach Cyclone calipers or similar. No Shimano.

I have beaut short reach. I would prefer bolt on, rather than recessed, but can make either work.
I also have Shimano 600 tri-color brakes to trade, long or short reach. Plenty of other items, too, doesn't have to be for brakes in return, have nice pedals, or if you need something else. 600, 105, Campy, Nos Christophe toe clips... Chain rings, etc.
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