Schmiegle

Last Dremel tool rework:

Right Chain Stay: Diamond cutter wheel / 60 & 120 barrels / 10 mins 80 grit hand sand.
Left Chain Stay: Diamond Cutter / Light 60 barrels

Note the remaining nickel / chrome plating on the aft ~10" of chain stay. That stuff is TOUGH!

Schmiegle

AAAAAAAAAAAAND... What I spent an hour (HAND SANDING PORTION ONLY...) on today!

Right Seat Stay: Diamond cutter / 60 & 120 barrels / 80-grit hand sand.
Left Seat Stay: Dimond cutter only at top / 60 & 120 barrels remaining.

Schmiegle

True to the Frenchie crank assembly nature I figure I'd continue in keeping it as unique (BB threading & cup tool / ISO spindle standard / pedal threading) and backwards (metric and non reverse threading) as possible! 😝

Re: SL crank. I am having an issue removing the screws that attach the gears to the crank arms. One screw is spinning along with the insert. Is it meant to have a flat head screw driver holding steady on he other side? I haven't looked real close at it yet but ideas would be helpful.

SquidPuppet

What's with all the grinding and sanding? Are you going to paint it?

Schmiegle

Since you asked & want to ruin the surprise for everyone...! ;-)

The plan is for a chemical bath to eliminate all embedded micro dirt. Complete polish. Full frame and fork Copper, Nickel, Chromium dip! Bake out the hydrogen to eliminate all embrittlement.

Before I send it out I need ALL discrepancies removed & a solid hand polishing with 400 grit.

Stay SPACY friends! :-D

JohnDThompson 

Indeed. And the frame looks like a PX-10, which would be Reynolds 531 butted tubing; one of the nicest affordable race frames made. More than a couple TdFs were raced on PX-10s.

The one downside would be metric thread in the bottom bracket and steer tube, which means a little more work sourcing replacements, should that be needed. The original Stronglight bottom bracket and headset were good quality, so there's no reason to replace them unless they're irredeemably worn or damaged.

JohnDThompson 

I wouldn't anticipate much problem there, as long as the rings are a size you can use. That mod. 93 crank uses an obsolete 122mm bolt-circle diameter for which different size rings are scarce. And be aware that a proprietary 23.35mm diameter extractor is needed to properly remove the arms.

For single-speed (freewheel), no problem. For a fixed gear, the frame has a lower bottom bracket than frames designed for track, increasing the risk of pedal strike in cornering.

Pedal thread spec should be stamped in the back of the arm, "9/16 x 20" for English, "14 x 125" for metric. N.B. a metric thread arm can easily be tapped to English thread spec.

JohnDThompson 

Best thing is a chainring bolt spanner:



Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!

Schmiegle

All good points John!

I think it's a 1971 PX-10 based on original decals, Naplex lugs, and Reynolds 531 stickers on frame and fork. As I understand it, Reynolds 531 can be chromed nicely as noted on the original chain stay and fork details. The idea this steel frame was a SOLID ride original should carry through to today, I hope!

As for the SL headset. New ball bearings and grease and everything up top should come back together nicely based on post cleaning inspection!

As for the BB. Stock Cups are toasted and pitted. Spindle is the same. The fixed cup was a BOOGER BEAR to get unsiezed! Had to use a vice and spin the frame around it. By the original condition I think the bike sat in a flooded basement/garage for just long enough to corrode components and not the frame... Too much! I AM THANKFUL threading is undamaged.

I sourced a new Phil Wood BB and it is SILKY SMOOTH. Bought Frenchie cups off eBay and found out they were an older Aluminum revision. Tossed em and called PW directly for new Steel cups and dust guards. SUPERB finish on them both!

Schmiegle

I KNEW IT! Thanks for the link. The crank is now back down to the bottom of the priority list, just above the derailleurs!

50voltphantom

Unless there was something specifically wrong with those aluminum cups, there was no need to get rid of them. I'm using English PW aluminum cups and have had no issues. Just an FYI if you haven't actually thrown them in the trash...

Schmiegle

Tool notches and inner diameter of one cup was cut improperly and too large. Dust guard o-ring didn't fully seat in cup. New steel cups were CNC cut significantly more accurate. Fit is REAL nice! Plus I ordered a couple PW pint glasses too!

Ajkollme

This thread is awesome. That's all I have to add. Carry on.

seau grateau

One does not simply post about Phil Wood parts without including pictures.

TimothyH

Just want to point out Bike Recyclery to the OP if he is not aware of the site.

HIGH END Used & Vintage Bike Shop! We stock Campagnolo XTR TA Suntour Parts NIB NOS

Schmiegle

Thanks! I'm really trying to create something special! A bit of a rolling art piece?



Thanks for the site! I'm interested in finding some trick high quality Stainless Steel brake cables and housings. Trying to stay with the Silver theme and avoid a black cable. Any ideas? I've got just about everything else covered, I believe.

Schmiegle

Poo poo my crank and then demand photos...? WTF?! HAHAH! I kid I kid!

Left: Stainless Steel Cups and installed mud guard.
Right: Aluminum Cups.

NOTE: Threading damage and "relatively" poor inner diameter cogs.
Apparently PW revised the design of these cups 15-20 YEARS ago and I didn't catch that upon getting a deal on eBay...
Ya pay for what ya get, I guess?

Schmiegle

I feel the draw for the SL gear as to give a super nod to the PX-10.

For a stream lined design factor, I'm drawn towards the Paul Comp circle gear.

For the hidden Easter egg factor, I really like the Royal Flush once it's held up to the frame.
Or would the UFO rims and chrome frame will be such intense visual would the mat finish of the gear would draw the eyes in?

Now that I look at them side by side, it appears the Royal Flush is "meatier".

Both PC's are on 1/8" chain so I don't know what to think now.

NWGuy99

Very interesting. Thanks for the pictures. I think I see where you are going here.
I think the final blingness coefficient might be assisted by upgrading from the Simplex Criterium RD with plastic to the more modern Simplex SLJ. A Simplex 6600 RD paired with the Modern Retrofriction downtube FD would look nice (or did you say single speed?).

I also see you have the new Brooks seat but what about the older Ideale with a nicely polished, shiny aluminum rail structure? The leather might be old and possibly need replacing but a 90R with a black seat along with black cork/leather handlebar tape might play off the bling nicely. Also there are some good leather seat workers here who could totally replace the leather if you could not find one with good enough leather.

Schmiegle

Single speed or Fixed. First Ride will be Single Speed.

The C17 Brooks seat was another nod to the PX-10, as the B17 is what came stock on it.

But the C17 is sleeker in lines and maybe a bit more comfortable? I do like the bit more protruding head style fasteners of the C17 over the full countersunk rivet of the B17.

I CANNOT believe a previous owner tossed a B17 for this duder though!

As for the bars... I like the idea of black leather and silver brake lines (running sub grip?)!

But not sure about the MAFAC levers and hoods.

The levers are good but the hoods are pretty shabby. Replace with black hoods? I don't really need hoods, right?

Bandera

Color coordination has never been a primary requirement for me but for rides > than around the block lever hoods are well appreciated on a FG/SS.

VO may have hoods & cable housing:

Components

-Bandera

NWGuy99

I have attached a few photos (first time post upgrade) to indicate what I am thinking. The Ideale 90R was an option on some of the PX90s according to https://www.classicrendezvous.com/Fra...10_history.htm, and the aluminum structure would really complement the other bling you are doing.

As for your question re Mafac, I have attached another photo showing the drilled levers, with black hard plastic covers and the actual brakes. Silver cable lines might look cool.

Schmiegle

Wild rail structure! How would that fit my Simplex seat post? I'm thinking this C17 should be a direct fit?

Hoods look nice but I'm still not understanding why they're needed or wanted? Bling off the eye?! LOL!

NWGuy99

Ahh, yes, this seat would want a simple post hole structure and would probably not work OOTB (out of the box) with the Simplex post you mentioned. I believe the C17, or other Ideale or most other seats would work with the two tube structure.

On the MAFAC I found, in the photo, the hood was hard plastic and not removable. There might be other functions, but offhand one major one is riding with your hands high on the handlebars/brakehoods. When standing up off the seat and over the bars it is nice to position your hands there. Not sure how that would feel without them? One other bikes, I have replaced old ones with newly manufactured ones (Cane Creek comes to mind) that should not be too expensive.

Schmiegle

Thanks for the Ideale! Hah!

Leather is timeless, while the C17 is contemporary like Squid pointed out! The Chrome is more of the timeless focus though. I'll think about it though! :-)