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What are your thoughts on lubing a brand new chain?

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What are your thoughts on lubing a brand new chain?

Old 08-04-14, 08:13 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by chasm54 View Post
Me, too. Can't imagine any advantage in stripping off an effective lubricant that was applied before the chain was assembled.
I leave it on but the Marvels I soon after apply cuts through it. Besides, you will have to lube that new chain at some point. It's inevitable.
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Old 08-04-14, 08:33 AM
  #27  
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I size a chain and ride it. I wipe the chain with a dry rag after every ride (OK, I may slip up and miss one occasionally) to remove accumulated dust. I sometimes put a very light spray of WD-40 on the rag to help clean off the greasy dirt. I may do this before the first ride if I plan to ride on dusty dirt roads. After a few weeks when the chain starts losing the factory lube, I add a drop per link of Pro Link.
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Old 08-04-14, 03:03 PM
  #28  
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Interesting comment in the Shimano article about the chain getting louder after it is degreased........
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Old 08-04-14, 07:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jppe View Post
Interesting comment in the Shimano article about the chain getting louder after it is degreased........
Mine gets quieter with a fresh lube. Makes sense.
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Old 08-05-14, 08:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by OldsCOOL View Post
I leave it on but the Marvels I soon after apply cuts through it. Besides, you will have to lube that new chain at some point. It's inevitable.
Yes, of course. But not until it needs it. My point was that I couldn't understand why anyone would actually strip out a lube that has, by definition, penetrated all moving parts only to replace it with something that may be inferior, either in quality or coverage. It's just making work for a possibly inferior result.
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Old 08-05-14, 08:47 AM
  #31  
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Ugh. Too much work! I just wipe my chain down with a cloth to get the worst of the gunk off. I'll add some chainsaw lube once every blue moon, but that's it. I'm in this for the exercise, so adding to the wattage just means I get more calories consumed per second. ... but wait, isn't that just me making more work for myself? : ponders conundrum :
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Old 08-05-14, 10:26 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by chasm54 View Post
Yes, of course. But not until it needs it. My point was that I couldn't understand why anyone would actually strip out a lube that has, by definition, penetrated all moving parts only to replace it with something that may be inferior, either in quality or coverage. It's just making work for a possibly inferior result.
Certainly not the solvent route. That's OCD territory.
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Old 08-10-14, 08:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
Well, apparently things have changed since Sheldon wrote that. According to Friction Facts, Inc (10 Ways to Increase Drive Train Efficiency )- relubing your chain and removing the factory lube will remove about one watt of friction losses. Also running in a chain for about an hour will make for a more efficient chain too (worth about a watt).

Selection of lube makes a difference. Lubes that tested at the worst end of the tens of lubes they tested had losses of 4-5 watts. Poor lubes where pro link, Purple Extreme and White Lightning Epic Ride.

J.
Sheldon's recommendations are about efficiency and reliability, when doing normal type riding, not for racing. Racers are willing to eschew chain life, tire life, even frame life, for a few watts of performance. Joe average who rides for transportation and exercise, is fine with the factory lube until the chain gets dry.
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Old 08-10-14, 09:11 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Wogster View Post
Sheldon's recommendations are about efficiency and reliability, when doing normal type riding, not for racing. Racers are willing to eschew chain life, tire life, even frame life, for a few watts of performance. Joe average who rides for transportation and exercise, is fine with the factory lube until the chain gets dry.
True that it's not a lot of watts or even a big difference, but here's where you are wrong.

The trade-off isn't chain life vs lower watts wasted. Nor is it a tradeoff between higher friction and better reliability. Less friction is less friction is less watts wasted. Less friction means better lubricant. Better lubricant means longer chain life and better reliability. If you want your chain to last longer, then use a lube that reduces the friction. In that sense, Sheldon Brown (who I love) is wrong.

All it means is that you are trading higher friction for more convenience. That's it.

I wonder if it has been studied, but the Friction Facts reports on chain wear indicate that the first hour or so of a chain's usage are a time of rapid seating/wearing in of the chain. I would have to believe that doing that with the lowest possible friction is beneficial to the life of the chain just like it is for many mechanical devices.

Also, this is sort of silly anyhow, cleaning and lubricating a chain is a very simple <5minute task. Why wouldn't you do it and put a better lube on it?

J.
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Old 08-10-14, 01:33 PM
  #35  
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The first thing I do with a new chain for my road bike is strip it with brake cleaner, then it dries throughly, then goes for a soak in the pot of Molten Speed Wax. I keep two chains in circulation. On my own ride, I don't care for the greasy mess oils make.

For my daughters bike, I add a drop of Chain L to each link when new and have her add a drop to each link after a wipe with a rag every couple of months. With her away at college I won't see the bike for many months at a time.
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Old 08-10-14, 02:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 02Giant View Post
The first thing I do with a new chain for my road bike is strip it with brake cleaner, then it dries throughly, then goes for a soak in the pot of Molten Speed Wax. I keep two chains in circulation. On my own ride, I don't care for the greasy mess oils make.

For my daughters bike, I add a drop of Chain L to each link when new and have her add a drop to each link after a wipe with a rag every couple of months. With her away at college I won't see the bike for many months at a time.
Exactly what I do with my kids' bikes. Chain-L is about average for lubrication/friction reduction but it's top of class for longevity and there is no better lubricant for the winter months on a bike.

I really do believe that the purposes for the lubricant that the manufacturers use on their chains are to keep them presentable for sale, to prevent corrosion during shipping and inventory, and to stick to the links after months of sitting on the shelves. The primary purpose is not to have the lowest friction possible or the fastest chain. Cleaning them and adding a better lube is just the best of the best, IMO. FWIW, Molten Speed Wax is the #1 lowest lube according to Friction Facts. How well does it hold up for you?

J.
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