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Cannondale CAAD12 BB30A Creak

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Cannondale CAAD12 BB30A Creak

Old 08-24-19, 11:45 PM
  #26  
colnago62
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Originally Posted by Lrdchaos View Post
I took it into the shop and they replaced it under warranty. I would call the shop again and express my displeasure and insist that a faulty bb is a warranty item.
There is a very good chance that the shop ate the cost, which in the grand scheme of things pretty cheap to keep a good customer happy.
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Old 08-24-19, 11:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
If they’ve pulled the bearings twice, you need to replace them. You can pull and replace once, but twice is asking for problems.

Wheels Manufacturing are my go to for quality and affordable BBS and bearings.
They have a customer service number that I called with questions about bb90 (You think bb30 is a pain, 90 for the win) issues. Man, those guys know their stuff. He talked to me for 30 minutes explaining the pros and cons of the press fit revolution. He gave me a much better understanding and now I know what to ask for when I have a shop install my bearings (Some shops won’t use Loctight. My local shop for example).
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Old 08-25-19, 10:20 AM
  #28  
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Is it that much more expensive for a mfr to use threaded?
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Old 08-25-19, 10:31 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by colnago62 View Post
They have a customer service number that I called with questions about bb90 (You think bb30 is a pain, 90 for the win) issues. Man, those guys know their stuff. He talked to me for 30 minutes explaining the pros and cons of the press fit revolution. He gave me a much better understanding and now I know what to ask for when I have a shop install my bearings (Some shops won’t use Loctight. My local shop for example).
Who has a customer service number?
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Old 08-25-19, 12:20 PM
  #30  
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I bought this CAAD 12 about 3 months ago. And, yes, it had the BB creak. Took it back to the shop and they rectified the situation. No charge. My impression is that it is because it is a press fit BB not threaded and it will happen again. Small price to pay for this bike IMO.
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Old 08-26-19, 07:29 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bruce19 View Post
I bought this CAAD 12 about 3 months ago. And, yes, it had the BB creak. Took it back to the shop and they rectified the situation. No charge. My impression is that it is because it is a press fit BB not threaded and it will happen again. Small price to pay for this bike IMO.
This CAAD model uses a PF30 and not a regular BB30 bearing install? What brand?
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Old 08-26-19, 08:36 AM
  #32  
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BB30 was always a solution in search of a problem. But the solution to press fit bottom bracket creak is a threaded bottom bracket.

I have a BB30 bike, and did all the work with loctite and curing to stop the creak. While I did get it stopped, I’ll never buy BB30 again; a modern system shouldn’t force me to do all that nonsense.

Especially not when 68mm English threaded HT2 bottom brackets are so elegantly simple and work so well.
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Old 08-26-19, 01:33 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
BB30 was always a solution in search of a problem. But the solution to press fit bottom bracket creak is a threaded bottom bracket.

I have a BB30 bike, and did all the work with loctite and curing to stop the creak. While I did get it stopped, I’ll never buy BB30 again; a modern system shouldn’t force me to do all that nonsense.

Especially not when 68mm English threaded HT2 bottom brackets are so elegantly simple and work so well.
...that is comprised of pressed in bearings using a retaining compound like loctite
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Old 08-26-19, 01:48 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
...that is comprised of pressed in bearings using a retaining compound like loctite
And yet doesn’t require the consumer to go to measures like those commonly prescribed for BB30 in order to get satisfactory results.

Also, you are oversimplifying in your effort to create an equivalency.
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Old 08-26-19, 02:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
And yet doesn’t require the consumer to go to measures like those commonly prescribed for BB30 in order to get satisfactory results.

Also, you are oversimplifying in your effort to create an equivalency.
You don't think shimano workers perform a similar procedure to press in bearings into the cups? Cannondale and other manufacturers sells thousands of bikes with pressed in bearings and not all of them creak. There is nothing inherently wrong with pressed in bearings and loctite is the industry standard for pressed in replaceable bearings for various applications outside of the bike world. Not sure why that is considered going out of the way in terms of installation.
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Old 08-26-19, 03:23 PM
  #36  
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You’re missing the point, and really stretching the false equivalency here.

I own both, and have installed both. Guess which provides more trouble free performance while also being much easier to install.

But you just go on claiming they’re the same.
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Old 08-26-19, 04:41 PM
  #37  
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You certainly don't hear much about HT2 bottom brackets creaking as soon as they leave the shop. Isn't Specialized going back to threaded bb on the Roubaix, maybe others? That has to have cost them some $.
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Old 09-07-19, 04:32 PM
  #38  
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So I just got word that Cannondale will replace the BB bearings. Any idea what they chose this approach?

FWIW, I have under 2,000 miles on my CAAD12.
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Old 09-08-19, 03:09 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SundayNiagara View Post
Is it that much more expensive for a mfr to use threaded?
The reason Manufacturers went to press fit is that it allowed them to lower the weight of the frame and increase the stiffness of the bottom bracket. What the industry did not account for is the large number of consumers who just want a maintenance free bottom bracket. I would be more than happy with a heavier frame with less maintenance. I am replacing bearings 3x a year.
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Old 09-08-19, 03:15 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by colnago62 View Post
The reason Manufacturers went to press fit is that it allowed them to lower the weight of the frame and increase the stiffness of the bottom bracket. What the industry did not account for is the large number of consumers who just want a maintenance free bottom bracket. I would be more than happy with a heavier frame with less maintenance. I am replacing bearings 3x a year.
Hard to believe press fit would be stiffer than threaded?
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Old 09-08-19, 03:34 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by colnago62 View Post
The reason Manufacturers went to press fit is that it allowed them to lower the weight of the frame and increase the stiffness of the bottom bracket. What the industry did not account for is the large number of consumers who just want a maintenance free bottom bracket. I would be more than happy with a heavier frame with less maintenance. I am replacing bearings 3x a year.
So is creaking caused by bearing wear? And if so, how much do bearings cost to replace?
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Old 09-08-19, 11:56 PM
  #42  
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The bearings don't need to be replaced unless the cups/races have been damaged in all the removal/reinstall. (but they're usually still fine if under a few thousand miles)

The BB30/PF30 solution is just problematic.

The creaking comes from the BB/BB Shell interface

Praxis Works with a Shimano crank is a good solution.

Wheels Mfg threaded BB is a good solution for 30mm dia cranks. (Cannondale, FSA, etc.)

If at first, Loctite 609 doesn't succeed (and there's a good chance it won't).......remove all again, lightly sand 609 surface inside the shell, apply more 609 and try again.


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Old 09-09-19, 05:52 AM
  #43  
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So, with original BB30, there was a thriving market of threaded “sleeves” that could be glued or fitted to the bottom bracket shell to convert to 68mm English threaded.

Then, Cannondale came out with BB30A, which changed the width of the bottom bracket shell. The conspiracy minded part of me says they did it to prevent consumers from retrofitting their bikes with conversion sleeves.
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Old 09-09-19, 09:39 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by loimpact View Post
If at first, Loctite 609 doesn't succeed (and there's a good chance it won't).......remove all again, lightly sand 609 surface inside the shell, apply more 609 and try again.
Loctite works perfectly when installed properly. This means applying Loctite, pressing in the bearings. And then leaving the press on the bearings for a full 24 hours as the Loctite cures.

Too often shops press in the bearings and remove the press. As the Loctite cures, it pushes the bearings out a bit, allowing them to move and creak again.

Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
So, with original BB30, there was a thriving market of threaded “sleeves” that could be glued or fitted to the bottom bracket shell to convert to 68mm English threaded.
I only ever knew of a handful of people who used those sleeves, which were permanent. I think more people opted for the Derlin adapters from Wheels Manufacturing.
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Old 09-10-19, 08:42 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
Loctite works perfectly when installed properly. This means applying Loctite, pressing in the bearings. And then leaving the press on the bearings for a full 24 hours as the Loctite cures.

Too often shops press in the bearings and remove the press. As the Loctite cures, it pushes the bearings out a bit, allowing them to move and creak again.



I only ever knew of a handful of people who used those sleeves, which were permanent. I think more people opted for the Derlin adapters from Wheels Manufacturing.
Or the Praxis bottom bracket.

You know what I don't have to do with a threaded BB? Keep a press on it overnight while it cures.

I say this as a person who has done all those things to solve the creak on my CAAD9. It still makes me mad. When it gives out, I'll probably sleeve it and get a new crank.
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Old 09-10-19, 08:50 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
Or the Praxis bottom bracket.

You know what I don't have to do with a threaded BB? Keep a press on it overnight while it cures.

I say this as a person who has done all those things to solve the creak on my CAAD9. It still makes me mad. When it gives out, I'll probably sleeve it and get a new crank.
You also don't have to buy praxis specific tools for their BB. And bearings cost $2-3 each
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Old 09-13-19, 08:50 AM
  #47  
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Old 09-13-19, 09:26 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Robert A View Post
Agreed, but this started when the bike was almost brand new. Bearings don't wear out after three months and 400 miles. I've asked the LBS to submit a warranty claim to Cannondale, so we'll see what they say.
Don’t believe the hype. The Cannondale Creak™️ isn’t just caused by bad installation. Several bikes have been known to be out of spec. There are tolerances regarding shell diameter, diameter ovalness, parallel alignment and face alignment (I’m sure those are not the correct technical terms but hopefully you get the idea). If your bike shop were truly competent, they’d use some very precise tools that I know nothing about to determine whether your bike was out of tolerance or not.

400 miles and you got a creak? You’re probably out of tolerance. People say you need loctite to get rid of creaks and they’re right to a certain extent - a poorly fit BB will stay in place with loctite, but that doesn’t mean your bearings aren’t getting crushed or loaded poorly. Try spinning your cranks without a chain. How many times does it spin? Less than one revolution? 2 or 3 revolutions? Garbage. People will say spin tests don’t mean anything but I assure you that your BB isn’t supposed to have that much drag even when unloaded.

Unless you can somehow prove that your BB shell is out of tolerance, you’re probably SOL in terms of warranty. Cannondale would go bankrupt if they replaced every out-of-whack frame. If nothing of the sort happens, I would look into aftermarket BB solutions, and there are plenty. The best ones are one-piece aluminum BBs. They add a tiny bit of weight relative to plastic cups but they add a lot of stiffness and get rid of a lot of drag. My crank with no chain spun for about 13 seconds, and I think the main limiter was the weight asymmetry of the crank/pedals. Look at BBinfinite and Hambini - they’re not much more expensive than thread-together types and they’re definitely cheaper than constantly going into your bike shop and getting work done.

EDIT: Also if you’re using a crank with a 30mm spindle you are SOL too because there would be no room for a sleeve. If you have a shimano drivetrain, I would recommend going to a shimano crank and then getting an aftermarket BB if the issue isn’t resolved by warranty and loctite.

EDIT: For the record, I don’t think pressfit is inherently bad. A buddy of mine has a cervelo BBRight that uses sleeves around the bearings, and he didn’t have creak for (I assume) thousands of miles... until one day when his BB bearings had completely rusted out. His BB spun almost as well as mine until that.

Last edited by smashndash; 09-13-19 at 09:42 AM.
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