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Potholes

Old 08-26-19, 02:53 PM
  #1  
restlessswind
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Potholes

My new Spec. Vado is getting a beating when it comes to the rims. I ride a MUP for 2/3 of the ride, but I have about 5 miles each way in traffic, and the potholes are atrocious. Only 250 miles and I needed to true what were near-perfect wheels.

What are some ideas to prevent this (another path is not an option). Is it the quality of the rims? Is it that new bikes are only 32 spokes? Is it just a factor of increased weight and speed?
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Old 08-26-19, 06:04 PM
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RW, think you nailed it with the weight and speed. IMO, the best solution is beefier tires; secondly, carbon rims (especially for cyclocross) would provide stronger wheels. Maybe ask Dave (at speed dream in AZ) what he thinks. I've always heard good things about his service.

Last edited by 2old; 08-26-19 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 08-27-19, 08:25 AM
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If you are commuting over the same MUP and streets, you know where the potholes are. Don't ride over them.
Also, lighten up when going over a pothole.
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Old 08-27-19, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
If you are commuting over the same MUP and streets, you know where the potholes are. Don't ride over them.
Also, lighten up when going over a pothole.
Agreed, but there is about a 1 mile stretch on a right shoulder shared with rush hour traffic. No bike lane, no sidewalk, just a gutter. The road is heavily used by freight trucks. The road is very buckled. There is no other way out/in. The drivers are very aggressive. It's just a bad place for a bike or ped to be.
On top of that, the buckled road is very difficult to see the dips. I am usually taken by surprise. I don't just ride through obvious potholes and dips at full speed ahead.
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Old 08-27-19, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 2old View Post
RW, think you nailed it with the weight and speed. IMO, the best solution is beefier tires; secondly, carbon rims (especially for cyclocross) would provide stronger wheels. Maybe ask Dave (at speed dream in AZ) what he thinks. I've always heard good things about his service.
The tires are pretty beefy...700 x 47C.
When time comes for new wheels, I will keep this information handy. Thank you. Perhaps a set of rugged 29er MTB rims with 36 spokes and eyelets.?
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Old 08-27-19, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by restlessswind View Post
The tires are pretty beefy...700 x 47C.
When time comes for new wheels, I will keep this information handy. Thank you. Perhaps a set of rugged 29er MTB rims with 36 spokes and eyelets.?
Had no idea your tires were that wide, but your idea about 29er rims is sound. Build the "fattest" system that your forks can accommodate. Also, they're producing "enduro" wheels that are stronger than normal; these could be the ticket. Good luck.
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Old 08-27-19, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2old View Post
Had no idea your tires were that wide, but your idea about 29er rims is sound. Build the "fattest" system that your forks can accommodate. Also, they're producing "enduro" wheels that are stronger than normal; these could be the ticket. Good luck.
I figured a $2700 bike should of come with stronger wheels. Oh well. I'll make the best of them until I need new ones. I hope I can get at least 2 years out of these wheels though. I don't ride the bike hard, but I do ride it fast.
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Old 08-30-19, 01:19 AM
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Even with 2.35in tyres I knew I had to lose the rigid frame if I was to stop destroying rear rims up kerbs. Large rear hubs don't kick up easily...

5ins of rear suspension travel, and damaged rims are a thing of the past,u though the weight of the motor on the tyre is still in mind.
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Old 08-30-19, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeyMK View Post
Even with 2.35in tyres I knew I had to lose the rigid frame if I was to stop destroying rear rims up kerbs. Large rear hubs don't kick up easily...

5ins of rear suspension travel, and damaged rims are a thing of the past,u though the weight of the motor on the tyre is still in mind.
It's a mid-drive
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Old 08-30-19, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by restlessswind View Post
It's a mid-drive
Yeah i'd want a downhill frame with mid drive, it's a tiny weight penalty on an E.

Just be sure to consider geometry for power assistance - i needed a multi-link set-up to prevent the hub's torque lifting the crank, and a design sensitive to pedal-bob won't be good on a mid drive.
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Old 09-04-19, 10:30 AM
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My experience with bikes is that 250 miles is about right for re-truing wheels. Sounds like youre riding on street like we have here in Oakland....Total ****. The wheels sound fine but have you tried messing with the tire pressures? take a couple off the front and it could soften the jolting. Also what about a larger tire like the schwable big ben 50c. In fact i have a pair i took off my izip dash i could sell you for cheap. There the class 3 black/reflex versions. Let me know..
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