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Help me (re)build this Peugeot Mixte!

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Help me (re)build this Peugeot Mixte!

Old 09-09-19, 02:47 PM
  #26  
Reynolds 531
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So, for those who are horrified at the above process: It worked fine. It was not hard to do, the diameters are so close that the holesaw piloted itself, and now my wife can ride with VO bars.
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Old 09-09-19, 06:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Reynolds 531 View Post
So, for those who are horrified at the above process: It worked fine. It was not hard to do, the diameters are so close that the holesaw piloted itself, and now my wife can ride with VO bars.
I think what you did is quite risky but that's my opinion. My concerns are any ridges left by the hole saw could be stress risers, the amount of material removed and any heat embrittlement from doing that.

How long has the modified stem been in use?

I sure hope that it never fails in use.

Cheers
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Old 09-14-19, 05:39 PM
  #28  
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I've got handlebars and and upgraded stem on the way shortly. Working on cleaning up the forks right now. There were some rust spots dotted all over the socks so I've got them sitting in evapo-rust at the moment, which I've always had great results with. Beyond that, I'm thinking of using aluminum foil to shine it up. I remember this working with the Fuji I did. Are these fork socks just chrome plated? What's the difference between polishing something like this and, say, a steel or alloy component?

Last edited by polymorphself; 09-14-19 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 09-14-19, 05:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Miele Man View Post
I think what you did is quite risky but that's my opinion. My concerns are any ridges left by the hole saw could be stress risers, the amount of material removed and any heat embrittlement from doing that.

How long has the modified stem been in use?

I sure hope that it never fails in use.

Cheers
Remember, this 0.4 millimeters removed from diameter. Thats about 2 1/2 sheets of paper per side. Thinnest part of the stem went from 3.35mm to 3.13mm, however there is a rib all the way around that is thicker.

Last edited by Reynolds 531; 09-14-19 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 09-15-19, 03:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Reynolds 531 View Post


Remember, this 0.4 millimeters removed from diameter. Thats about 2 1/2 sheets of paper per side. Thinnest part of the stem went from 3.35mm to 3.13mm, however there is a rib all the way around that is thicker.
Is that a thin gap I see from about the middle of the top of the bar to the rear of the bar? There are a lot of things I might thin down on a bicycle but a handlebar or stem are two I'd be extremely hesitant to do unless I could mill them out. YMMV Good luck.

Cheers
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Old 09-15-19, 06:47 PM
  #31  
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Your pedals may indeed be standard-threaded. I have a 1969-1970ish UO-18 that came with the original cottered cranks, but the Leotard pedals had standard threading (non-French). I'm currently using those pedals in a replacement Sugino crankset. I know you don't have a bottom bracket at all -- you could just buy French-threaded bottom bracket cups and use a standard spindle of the desired size. That's how I converted mine to cotterless -- I re-used the original cups and just used a modern spindle in it.

The MAFAC brakes will be able to reach 622mm wheels (700c), but just barely. I'm using inexpensive Shimano CT-91 brake pads in mine, and they work fine. It takes a lot of lever force, but the bike does stop pretty well. For wheels, are you going to go cassette or freewheel? I'm using a 7-speed cassette on mine, and I've got the lock nuts set at the narrowest I can get away with and still keep the wheel properly dished. I think it's about 128mm or so. I think the frame is set at 120mm if I recall correctly, so I had to really wiggle this in there. I have not cold-set it -- I just have the wheel squeezed in. The tires are 37-622 / 700x35, and they measure about 33-34mm on the rims. There's enough clearance in the rear for these, but not much more.

My drivetrain is a pair of early '90s 105 derailleurs (they look the part) with Shimano Revoshift shifters. My wife will sometimes ride this bike, which is the only reason I don't have friction shifters on it. I've currently bodged-up some cable stops using modern Shimano stops with the original Huret shifter wing nut things. The threading on the bosses is non-standard, which has kept me from using a different type of cap for the cable stops. I realize the bosses are just clamped-on, and I could very well just buy a more modern type, which you may do yourself (as I don't see the clamp at all on your downtube).

I paid $35 for mine, not knowing what to do with it...buying it just because it looked interesting. As it turns out, it's one of my favorite bikes to ride. It's just so pleasing to get on this thing and go. My 14 year old daughter loves it, too. The geometry is such that the bike is really stable, yet the frame is really lively (flexible!). It's really a blast to enjoy around town. I know you're not building this bike for you, but you may get The Itch after you get it on the road.



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Old 09-15-19, 06:51 PM
  #32  
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Oh, I forgot to mention the stem -- it's a standard 22.2mm stem that I sanded slightly to fit into the French fork. It's a pretty tall Nitto dirt drop style stem. I'm using a mild northroad/Mary style city bar on it (a mild W shape). I love the heads-up riding, and the easy steering/geometry. You don't really have to "steer" this bike -- it just seems to go where you want it. It really rides like nothing I've ridden before, and I quite enjoy it!
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Old 09-16-19, 01:15 PM
  #33  
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Hm, despite the information provided above, I'm having a hard time zeroing in on a crankset. I'm looking at these...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...0AAOSwmE5cP07a

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-NICE-S...8AAOSwvNVcRwDT

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STRONGLIGHT...YAAOSwhZ5bhEkF

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...IAAOSwqatdPjui

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pedalier-ST...YAAOSwOHpcOTmz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/very-nice-s...8AAOSw5PJdb8V4

https://www.ebay.com/itm/crankset-pe...UAAOSw2EZc9CDK

Any of these should work, coupled with the VO french threaded BB, correct? Are there size or gearing differences in these that I'm not noticing?
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Old 09-16-19, 05:02 PM
  #34  
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i just love vintage peugeots !
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Old 09-17-19, 10:59 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by polymorphself View Post
Hm, despite the information provided above, I'm having a hard time zeroing in on a crankset. I'm looking at these...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...0AAOSwmE5cP07a

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-NICE-S...8AAOSwvNVcRwDT

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STRONGLIGHT...YAAOSwhZ5bhEkF

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight...IAAOSwqatdPjui

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pedalier-ST...YAAOSwOHpcOTmz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/very-nice-s...8AAOSw5PJdb8V4

https://www.ebay.com/itm/crankset-pe...UAAOSw2EZc9CDK

Any of these should work, coupled with the VO french threaded BB, correct? Are there size or gearing differences in these that I'm not noticing?
To follow up with my quoted post above: Some are 50/40, some are 52/42...what should I be looking at?

Also, for wheels, I'm looking at this wheelset: https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...oducts_id=2529

Thoughts? Thanks!

Last edited by polymorphself; 09-17-19 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 09-17-19, 11:17 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by polymorphself View Post
To follow up with my quoted post above: Some are 50/40, some are 52/42...what should I be looking at?
Unless you're going for an absolutely catalog-correct restoration, and it doesn't seem that you are, I would consider what your friend wants the overall gearing to be.

Just as an example, I'm running a fairly small cassette on my mixte (11-24 7-speed), so I want smaller rings on the crankset to compensate. I have a 26t small ring, and a 40t middle ring (my large ring is coming off in favor of a chain guard). But this is a town bike for me, with an upright riding position, and I never use even the 40-13 combination, let alone 40-11. So I'd actually like to swap my 40t for something like a 36t, and have a 26-36 double on it. That's me.

You can run whatever your friend wants the overall gearing to be. I would guess that a 40 or 42 small ring will be a bit tall, unless you also have a 34t or 36t sprocket on the back to go along with it. What freewheel or cassette are you planning to use? I think that has to be part of your consideration. I'm not saying I'd make this the final configuration, but MTB cranksets are pretty easy to come by (you may have a few in your bin already). You can try out some different chainring combinations to see what you or she likes. Once that decision is made, then you can scour the internet for that perfect one with the bolt circle size that will support the rings you want to use.

Sheldon Brown's Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet will be helpful in identifying the smallest ring you can use with each bolt circle size. In my opinion only, you probably should focus on a 74/110 or 74/130 crank (standard road triple). This would give you a 74mm first ring bolt circle, and then a 110mm or 130mm second/third ring bolt circle. Of course, there are a lot of other options, too, including adding a triplizer to a double to add lower gearing. If you want to stay with strictly a double and want the taller ratios, a 130mm bolt circle would be a safe bet, allowing you to use as low as 38t on the inner position.
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Old 09-17-19, 11:27 AM
  #37  
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Hmm, thanks for the detailed response, although maybe a little too detailed I'm not sure she has or would have a preference at this point. All I know for sure is that she will be riding in an upright position at slow-medium speeds on flat ground, average rides being around 3-4 miles. Sorry to make it so simple!
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Old 09-17-19, 02:09 PM
  #38  
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Simple is good. In that case, and assuming you'll use a "normal" freewheel (like a 14-28 or similar), then I would recommend a triple crankset. I would not recommend a 40-52 double. The 40t small chainring will likely be too large for this application.

Something like this could work out nicely. That's a 24-34-42 triple. Here is another possibility. It's a 28-40-48 triple. You could remove the large ring on either of those and install a chain guard, which might be a nice touch. Or you can leave it as it is.

With any used crankset, you'll just need to be mindful of bottom bracket spindle length, and you won't really know what the candidate crankset will need until you get it, unfortunately (not with used stuff like this). I've found the only real way to work this is to just offer it up to the frame and see where it needs to be positioned so the large rings don't hit the chainstay and then size your bottom bracket spindle from there.
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Old 09-17-19, 03:31 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by polymorphself View Post
Hmm, thanks for the detailed response, although maybe a little too detailed I'm not sure she has or would have a preference at this point. All I know for sure is that she will be riding in an upright position at slow-medium speeds on flat ground, average rides being around 3-4 miles. Sorry to make it so simple!
not to be a heretic here, but that kind of riding environment sounds perfect for a single-speed setup with a relaxed 42/16 ratio or similar.

Disadvantage of this approach: doesn't allow you to hang all sorts of period correct french mech all over the frame, and leaves you in the lurch in the event that (a) she decides she wants to out-sprint the delivery mopeds or (b) your neighbourhood suddenly grows some hills.

Advantage: lighter, simpler, and lets the elegance of the mixte frame shine on through unfiltered.
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Old 09-17-19, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by niliraga View Post
not to be a heretic here, but that kind of riding environment sounds perfect for a single-speed setup with a relaxed 42/16 ratio or similar.

Disadvantage of this approach: doesn't allow you to hang all sorts of period correct french mech all over the frame, and leaves you in the lurch in the event that (a) she decides she wants to out-sprint the delivery mopeds or (b) your neighbourhood suddenly grows some hills.

Advantage: lighter, simpler, and lets the elegance of the mixte frame shine on through unfiltered.
I have definitely considered this. Another downside for me is this is a learning experience and I was looking forward to working on all that goes with keeping it a geared bicycle. I supposed I haven't totally ruled it out yet though!
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Old 09-18-19, 05:49 AM
  #41  
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Yet another idea: get a wheel with an internally-geared hub (like a Sturmey Archer). That way, you could run a single ring and single sprocket, but still have some gear range to work with. You may have to be creative with shift cable routing (I'm not familiar with the requirements of this setup), but it would probably work nicely.
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Old 10-15-19, 12:33 AM
  #42  
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Quick update! Had to take a break from this project but it's back on. Tonight, thanks to some help in another thread, I got the old clear coat residue cleaned off the forks and polished/cleaned them up. Sometime this week I'll get the forks/bars/headset together and order the new bottom bracket. Some pics of the forks.



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Old 10-17-19, 12:35 AM
  #43  
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Another quick update: User @niliraga was kind enough to sell me a Philippe stem and Belleri porteur bars at a nice price. I mounted those with the forks tonight. Bearings and cage looked good to go, possibly replaced at some point. Regreased of course. Looking good!


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Old 10-17-19, 03:36 PM
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nice progress -- this is the sort of project those bars were intended for, so glad to see this pics!
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Old 10-18-19, 05:18 AM
  #45  
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Nice work so far!!
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