New rims, constant punctures - advice?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
New rims, constant punctures - advice?
Total n00b to the forum, so hello.
I had new rims fitted about two months ago - DT Swiss R24 Spinline - and in the last week I've been getting constant punctures. Five in seven rides.
First seemed to be glass incident, second on the same ride possibly pinch. After the third just a day later I thought 'time to change the tyre!' New Gatorskin; bought a slightly wider one (25), as thought the existing (23) didn't feel right on corners.
Nope. Still getting punctures. And it is driving me insane. In.Sane.
What's the next step? New rim tape? I've never fitted it before, so I don't know what to buy, nor what size on those rims (website doesn't make it clear).
Any advice/help appreciated before I get full-on Saturday rage would be great. Ta!
I had new rims fitted about two months ago - DT Swiss R24 Spinline - and in the last week I've been getting constant punctures. Five in seven rides.
First seemed to be glass incident, second on the same ride possibly pinch. After the third just a day later I thought 'time to change the tyre!' New Gatorskin; bought a slightly wider one (25), as thought the existing (23) didn't feel right on corners.
Nope. Still getting punctures. And it is driving me insane. In.Sane.
What's the next step? New rim tape? I've never fitted it before, so I don't know what to buy, nor what size on those rims (website doesn't make it clear).
Any advice/help appreciated before I get full-on Saturday rage would be great. Ta!
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
WHERE are the punctures occurring?
If the rim strip is to blame they'll be consistently occuring on the rim side of the tube.
To inspect the rim strip, check that its covering the spoke nipple access holes properly.
If the rim strip is to blame they'll be consistently occuring on the rim side of the tube.
To inspect the rim strip, check that its covering the spoke nipple access holes properly.
#6
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 105 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Spoke holes must be covered.
Any bike shop will have tape for a rim. It shouldn't cost more than $5.
Are you checking the tire for foreign objects after each flat? Are there sharp objects embedded in the tire?
If not, the rim tape is the most likely problem.
When you go to the shop to get tape, tell them you're getting flats constantly and ask them to look at your wheel for any problems.
Any bike shop will have tape for a rim. It shouldn't cost more than $5.
Are you checking the tire for foreign objects after each flat? Are there sharp objects embedded in the tire?
If not, the rim tape is the most likely problem.
When you go to the shop to get tape, tell them you're getting flats constantly and ask them to look at your wheel for any problems.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It's always on the same wheel, yes, the rear.
Always taking tyre off entirely for change, scoping out the interior of that, plus eyeing up the rim; tubes are fully changed each time and not patched.
Last two changes were by mechanics in different shops, situation explained to them, neither commented on an issue (or perhaps they're just not very good, which was my inkling - but what do I know, I'm a keen rider without all the knowledge).
Thanks for replies
Always taking tyre off entirely for change, scoping out the interior of that, plus eyeing up the rim; tubes are fully changed each time and not patched.
Last two changes were by mechanics in different shops, situation explained to them, neither commented on an issue (or perhaps they're just not very good, which was my inkling - but what do I know, I'm a keen rider without all the knowledge).
Thanks for replies
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Only once - either a shard of stone or glass - which is why I thought that Gatorskin was done. Nothing hugely problematic based on my previous experience of such tyres though, but still changed it. The new one has not a single pock mark in it - it's only travelled 40-miles!
#9
Serious Cyclist
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: RVA
Posts: 9,308
Bikes: Emonda SL6
Mentioned: 97 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5721 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
99 Posts
It's always on the same wheel, yes, the rear.
Always taking tyre off entirely for change, scoping out the interior of that, plus eyeing up the rim; tubes are fully changed each time and not patched.
Last two changes were by mechanics in different shops, situation explained to them, neither commented on an issue (or perhaps they're just not very good, which was my inkling - but what do I know, I'm a keen rider without all the knowledge).
Thanks for replies
Always taking tyre off entirely for change, scoping out the interior of that, plus eyeing up the rim; tubes are fully changed each time and not patched.
Last two changes were by mechanics in different shops, situation explained to them, neither commented on an issue (or perhaps they're just not very good, which was my inkling - but what do I know, I'm a keen rider without all the knowledge).
Thanks for replies
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,436 Times
in
4,663 Posts
As other have alluded to, when you get a flat, it's important to find out what's causing the flat or it could continue to be a problem.
First, I'd recommend that you get comfortable changing flats yourself. It's not that hard once you've had a little practice.
Second, I'd recommend that you align the label on your tire with your valve stem - when you get a flat, you pull and inspect the tube to find the puncture. If your tire label and valve stem were aligned, once you find the tube puncture, you can use the location of the puncture, relative to the stem, to find the puncture site on the tire, relative to the label - make sense? Sometimes the things that cause flats, whether it's a small rock, a bit of glass or a thin wire, can get stuck in the tire casing and will cause you to flat shortly after changing the tube, so you need to find the puncture site and make sure it's clean of debris.
As Dan said above, if the puncture is on the inside of the tube, inspect the rimtape/spoke holes.
If you look very closely at the tube and you see two punctures right next to each other, otherwise known as a snakebite or pinch-flat, it may be an indication that your tire pressure is too low and the tube is being pinched between the rim and the road/rock/bump. Road tires can lose significant pressure between rides, so you should be topping off before each ride to avoid pinch flats.
Good luck!
First, I'd recommend that you get comfortable changing flats yourself. It's not that hard once you've had a little practice.
Second, I'd recommend that you align the label on your tire with your valve stem - when you get a flat, you pull and inspect the tube to find the puncture. If your tire label and valve stem were aligned, once you find the tube puncture, you can use the location of the puncture, relative to the stem, to find the puncture site on the tire, relative to the label - make sense? Sometimes the things that cause flats, whether it's a small rock, a bit of glass or a thin wire, can get stuck in the tire casing and will cause you to flat shortly after changing the tube, so you need to find the puncture site and make sure it's clean of debris.
As Dan said above, if the puncture is on the inside of the tube, inspect the rimtape/spoke holes.
If you look very closely at the tube and you see two punctures right next to each other, otherwise known as a snakebite or pinch-flat, it may be an indication that your tire pressure is too low and the tube is being pinched between the rim and the road/rock/bump. Road tires can lose significant pressure between rides, so you should be topping off before each ride to avoid pinch flats.
Good luck!
#11
Serious Cyclist
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: RVA
Posts: 9,308
Bikes: Emonda SL6
Mentioned: 97 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5721 Post(s)
Liked 261 Times
in
99 Posts
As other have alluded to, when you get a flat, it's important to find out what's causing the flat or it could continue to be a problem.
First, I'd recommend that you get comfortable changing flats yourself. It's not that hard once you've had a little practice.
Second, I'd recommend that you align the label on your tire with your valve stem - when you get a flat, you pull and inspect the tube to find the puncture. If your tire label and valve stem were aligned, once you find the tube puncture, you can use the location of the puncture, relative to the stem, to find the puncture site on the tire, relative to the label - make sense? Sometimes the things that cause flats, whether it's a small rock, a bit of glass or a thin wire, can get stuck in the tire casing and will cause you to flat shortly after changing the tube, so you need to find the puncture site and make sure it's clean of debris.
As Dan said above, if the puncture is on the inside of the tube, inspect the rimtape/spoke holes.
If you look very closely at the tube and you see two punctures right next to each other, otherwise known as a snakebite or pinch-flat, it may be an indication that your tire pressure is too low and the tube is being pinched between the rim and the road/rock/bump. Road tires can lose significant pressure between rides, so you should be topping off before each ride to avoid pinch flats.
Good luck!
First, I'd recommend that you get comfortable changing flats yourself. It's not that hard once you've had a little practice.
Second, I'd recommend that you align the label on your tire with your valve stem - when you get a flat, you pull and inspect the tube to find the puncture. If your tire label and valve stem were aligned, once you find the tube puncture, you can use the location of the puncture, relative to the stem, to find the puncture site on the tire, relative to the label - make sense? Sometimes the things that cause flats, whether it's a small rock, a bit of glass or a thin wire, can get stuck in the tire casing and will cause you to flat shortly after changing the tube, so you need to find the puncture site and make sure it's clean of debris.
As Dan said above, if the puncture is on the inside of the tube, inspect the rimtape/spoke holes.
If you look very closely at the tube and you see two punctures right next to each other, otherwise known as a snakebite or pinch-flat, it may be an indication that your tire pressure is too low and the tube is being pinched between the rim and the road/rock/bump. Road tires can lose significant pressure between rides, so you should be topping off before each ride to avoid pinch flats.
Good luck!
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,436 Times
in
4,663 Posts
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20791 Post(s)
Liked 9,436 Times
in
4,663 Posts
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
As said above there are three most likely causes: 1) debris left stuck in the tire from the first flat poking through a small hole to puncture the tube on the road side, 2) defects in the rim tape placement allowing one of the spoke hole's edge to cut the tube on the rim side, and 3) pinch flats due to either catching the tube under the tire bead when mounting the tire or underinflation and/or indiscriminate riding on rough roads. Pinch flats are usually on the side of the tube and have the characteristic twin hole, snakebite appearance. All three are easy to check. Check for these possibilities and you should have the problem corrected in no time.
I strongly urge you to change you own tires. It is the only way to reliably have your bike ready for you when you are ready for it.
I strongly urge you to change you own tires. It is the only way to reliably have your bike ready for you when you are ready for it.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 8,088
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 686 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Those wheels are tubeless ready, but I didn't have any luck with their rim tape holding air around the valve, so I yanked off the rim tape and used 1" gorilla tape.
Super easy fix and the tires haven't leaked air in months. And no flats because tubeless, so woot!
Super easy fix and the tires haven't leaked air in months. And no flats because tubeless, so woot!
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
Others have said this here but I'll reiterate: find the locations of the punctures on the tubes. If they're all in the same place (relative the valve) that's a clue.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
Replacing tubes only guarantees that you have replaced the tubes.
I've probably done most of my miles on patched tubes w/o any issues at all.
That does indicate that pressure - or lack thereof - could be the cause.
If you're a keen rider, there are some things you should learn to manage yourself, because there will not always be a mechanic available. And patching/replacing tubes is definitely one of them.
It is not a huge challenge.
I've probably done most of my miles on patched tubes w/o any issues at all.
That does indicate that pressure - or lack thereof - could be the cause.
It is not a huge challenge.
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So it was very clearly the rim tape. It had slipped, exposing parts of two spoke holes, more of a third.
Basically lazy shop mechanics not doing their jobs.
I can and will be changing tubes myself. Just bought new tyre levers as I had snapped one some time ago so couldn't carry.
Will be writing a peed-off letter to CyclesUK to try and get so-called labour costs reimbursed.
Basically lazy shop mechanics not doing their jobs.
I can and will be changing tubes myself. Just bought new tyre levers as I had snapped one some time ago so couldn't carry.
Will be writing a peed-off letter to CyclesUK to try and get so-called labour costs reimbursed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ClarkinHawaii
Bicycle Mechanics
6
07-09-15 01:36 PM
mariachi
Bicycle Mechanics
4
04-07-13 09:39 PM