What's the pre-load torque for a Chris King 1-1/8" threadless headset?
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What's the pre-load torque for a Chris King 1-1/8" threadless headset?
I like the front end of my bike to be as taut as possible. I seem to notice that the front end of my bike develops a slight bit of slop in the handling about once a year. So I loosen my stem bolts and verify that the fork plug is snug enough and then re-do the preload on my cap bolt (without a torque wrench) and finally make sure my stem bolts are tightened correctly.
The tautness is there now, but I fear I may have overdone it with the pre-loading of the sealed bearings on the Chris King headset. I thought I felt a slight bit of notchyness but the handling on the road is good and no hands riding is good. Does anyone know if these Chris King bearings will be damaged if I go (slightly) overboard snugging up the fork plug cap screw?
The tautness is there now, but I fear I may have overdone it with the pre-loading of the sealed bearings on the Chris King headset. I thought I felt a slight bit of notchyness but the handling on the road is good and no hands riding is good. Does anyone know if these Chris King bearings will be damaged if I go (slightly) overboard snugging up the fork plug cap screw?
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https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/29...63412763896395 Scroll down to final assembly and adjustment. BTW this took about 45 seconds to find. Andy
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https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/29...63412763896395 Scroll down to final assembly and adjustment. BTW this took about 45 seconds to find. Andy
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Just enough to hold the headset together. As soon as you can apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth without movement in the headset, you’ve tightened enough. Barely more than finger-tight.
If your headset loosens, you might have issues with the frame prep (head tube not faced/parallel, unevenly reamed, too of steerer not cut at 90 degrees, etc).
If your headset loosens, you might have issues with the frame prep (head tube not faced/parallel, unevenly reamed, too of steerer not cut at 90 degrees, etc).
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Just enough to hold the headset together. As soon as you can apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth without movement in the headset, you’ve tightened enough. Barely more than finger-tight.
If your headset loosens, you might have issues with the frame prep (head tube not faced/parallel, unevenly reamed, too of steerer not cut at 90 degrees, etc).
If your headset loosens, you might have issues with the frame prep (head tube not faced/parallel, unevenly reamed, too of steerer not cut at 90 degrees, etc).
Last edited by Crankycrank; 05-23-20 at 02:53 PM.
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As an old timer who cut his teeth on soft Campy headsets I learned to set things by rocking feel, after building up the bike. Usually for my own stuff I will fall on the lesser side of the fence as I'll revisit after a few rides. Now that Phil has brought out headsets my CK fling is pretty much over. I did like the CK feel when new but disliked the overhaul process. The tiny balls and lack of much space for grease didn't make me happy. But I will say the CK bearings do last a good while. Andy
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#8
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Just enough to hold the headset together. As soon as you can apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth without movement in the headset, you’ve tightened enough. Barely more than finger-tight.
If your headset loosens, you might have issues with the frame prep (head tube not faced/parallel, unevenly reamed, too of steerer not cut at 90 degrees, etc).
If your headset loosens, you might have issues with the frame prep (head tube not faced/parallel, unevenly reamed, too of steerer not cut at 90 degrees, etc).
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The issue of the headset coming loose isn't the headset, its the stem. The topcap only helps to set the preload but can't hold everything together, especially since it has nothing solid to connect to; a star nut or plug isn't really that strong. Instead its the stem that holds the works together and you need to make sure you're getting that properly tight, typically 5nm is the torque on the stem bolts but after tightening the second bolt you need to recheck the first bolt you tightened and after double check the second bolt. I've had to do as many as 3 checks as one bolt can lose some tension once the other bolt is tightened. Can also use fibergrip if a carbon steerer to help prevent slipping as well.
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I like the front end of my bike to be as taut as possible. I seem to notice that the front end of my bike develops a slight bit of slop in the handling about once a year. So I loosen my stem bolts and verify that the fork plug is snug enough and then re-do the preload on my cap bolt (without a torque wrench) and finally make sure my stem bolts are tightened correctly.
The tautness is there now, but I fear I may have overdone it with the pre-loading of the sealed bearings on the Chris King headset. I thought I felt a slight bit of notchyness but the handling on the road is good and no hands riding is good. Does anyone know if these Chris King bearings will be damaged if I go (slightly) overboard snugging up the fork plug cap screw?
The tautness is there now, but I fear I may have overdone it with the pre-loading of the sealed bearings on the Chris King headset. I thought I felt a slight bit of notchyness but the handling on the road is good and no hands riding is good. Does anyone know if these Chris King bearings will be damaged if I go (slightly) overboard snugging up the fork plug cap screw?
Last edited by Litespud; 05-24-20 at 06:35 AM.
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