DS Cone Removal
05-16-19, 08:55 PM
#1
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DS Cone Removal
I just removed the cassette, cleaned, then re-greased the bearings in my rear Shimano hub. Then decided to re-watch a couple of videos on the subject. They all said make sure you take the nut and cone off the NDS. I took them off the DS. I took care to count the number of threads sticking out past the lock nut, and matched that when I re-assembled. Is it that big of a deal to undo the DS? I haven't had the wheel back on the bike yet, as I am doing some other projects with it. All seems well. Thank you.
05-16-19, 09:08 PM
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It's just more convenient to disassemble a rear axle from the non-drive side but there is no damage from undoing the DS end. If you leave one side (either side) assembled, the spacing on reassembly will automatically correct. You won't have to count threads but for future reference the axle protrusion is normally 5.5 mm on each side.
05-16-19, 09:34 PM
#3
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Thank you for that, HillRider. Does that go for the front wheel, also?
05-17-19, 06:33 AM
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05-17-19, 06:55 AM
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The real issue with taking the axle out by removing the DS cone/lock nut is that on reassembly the DS cone can be inaccessible, surrounded by the freehub body end. In this case how do you insure that the DS cone and lock nut are fully tightened against each other, with the cone wrench not reaching the DS cone? By working through the NDS you retain access to the NDS cone during the final bearing adjustments. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
05-17-19, 07:16 AM
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The real issue with taking the axle out by removing the DS cone/lock nut is that on reassembly the DS cone can be inaccessible, surrounded by the freehub body end. In this case how do you insure that the DS cone and lock nut are fully tightened against each other, with the cone wrench not reaching the DS cone? By working through the NDS you retain access to the NDS cone during the final bearing adjustments. Andy
So, to the OP: With the axle removed from the hub, reassemble the driveside cone and locknut being sure to adjust for the correct axle protrusion. Then disassemble the non-drive side locknut, spacers and cone, reinstall the axle in the hub and reassemble and adjust from the non-drive side. And thank Andy for the correction.
05-17-19, 08:57 AM
#7
Senior Member
AN other problem is if you don't get the right side tight enough progression will over tighten the bearings as you ride. I always work from the left side, front or rear.
05-19-19, 07:37 PM
#8
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I did as you said, HillRider, and took it apart, and did it the right way. Thank you guys for the information.
