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#801
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It's not a coincidence that both things happened at exactly the same time. What are the alternatives, for the same event to cause both a chain derailing and a broken spoke?
The chain was so loose that when he hit a pothole really hard and broke the spoke, the shock also knocked the chain off. Or - Some very solid object, a bolt or something like that, flew into the chain in front of the cog somehow, bound against the spoke and the leverage was enough to both break the spoke and wedge the chain off. I tried that with a pencil and it's possible, it does bind on a spoke. But these two are so unlikely that his idea that the broken spoke derailed the chain is probably the answer.
The chain was so loose that when he hit a pothole really hard and broke the spoke, the shock also knocked the chain off. Or - Some very solid object, a bolt or something like that, flew into the chain in front of the cog somehow, bound against the spoke and the leverage was enough to both break the spoke and wedge the chain off. I tried that with a pencil and it's possible, it does bind on a spoke. But these two are so unlikely that his idea that the broken spoke derailed the chain is probably the answer.
#802
Your cog is slipping.
Over-thinkers usually miss the most obvious things. My guess is that the chain derailed to the inside of the cog and the spoke was broken when it made contact.
#803
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Just wondering if there's some kind of list of desirable frames to keep an eye out for on Craigslist and the like. I know personal preference plays a big part, but what are some quality frames you would snatch up if the price was right? Also what should be avoided? Anything that's an obvious red flag? Thanks
#804
~>~
#805
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How about a rift in hyperspace that caused a distortion of the space-time continuum, resulting in a temporary dimensional change in the chain and spoke positional relationship, which caused an instability that dropped the chain and broke the spoke ?
#806
- Soli Deo Gloria -
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The herd mentality is strong here.
#807
Not actually Tmonk
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I think CL is fine if you know what you're looking for and have some discretion from experience
__________________
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
#808
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Yeah, I don't go to CL looking for specific stuff, but I'll browse it just to see what's around. It's like the internet's thrift shop.
#809
Senior Member
This is less likely than my scenario, IMHO. The chainline is dead straight, the chain wasn't loose, and the chain and cog are both fairly new and in good condition. Throwing the chain without a lateral external force seems really unlikely. Also, to lend further credence to my theory, when I was walking my bike in the garage, the back wheel suddenly started dragging, because the broken spoke got caught between the chain and cog. Anyway, I have a wheel to repair.
#810
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This is less likely than my scenario, IMHO. The chainline is dead straight, the chain wasn't loose, and the chain and cog are both fairly new and in good condition. Throwing the chain without a lateral external force seems really unlikely. Also, to lend further credence to my theory, when I was walking my bike in the garage, the back wheel suddenly started dragging, because the broken spoke got caught between the chain and cog. Anyway, I have a wheel to repair.
#811
Your cog is slipping.
Really? Because I replaced two broken spokes and one nearly broken spoke on a customer's wheel a few weeks ago and that's exactly what he said happened.
Maybe he just made up that story because he didn't want to say how a bolt or some other hard object magically appeared and flew into the chain in front of the cog.
Maybe he just made up that story because he didn't want to say how a bolt or some other hard object magically appeared and flew into the chain in front of the cog.
#812
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Just wondering if there's some kind of list of desirable frames to keep an eye out for on Craigslist and the like. I know personal preference plays a big part, but what are some quality frames you would snatch up if the price was right? Also what should be avoided? Anything that's an obvious red flag? Thanks
1. Horizontal dropouts or track ends
2. Prefer steel, so I can mess around with the dropout spacing, and take care of minor alignment issues if needed
3. Avoid irreparable damage of course, such as bikes that have been obviously crashed and bent
4. A frame that comes with a usable seatpost is a benefit, since there's no standardization of seatpost sizes and it's hard to measure a frame for the correct post. Make sure that you can loosen and adjust the seatpost, because a stuck post is a nightmare
5. In general, the more usable / desirable parts on the frame, the fewer that you have to buy, at least right away. A nice cotterless crank that can be disassembled and fit with different chainrings is a plus.
6. Clearance for wider tires, if that's your preference
7. Bring a tape measure, so you can confirm the dimensions per your preferences
I believe that a lot of 1980s bikes had similar quality lugged steel frames that are good enough for building into a decent single speed bike: Schwinn, Raleigh, Fuji and the Japanese brands in general. If they weren't all made in the same factory, they might as well have been. I don't tend to look at bikes that carry a brand premium, because the sellers want too much for them. Trek comes to mind in my area.
#813
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Granted, people are looking for different levels of quality, fancy-ness, aesthetics, and so forth. Here's what I look for.
1. Horizontal dropouts or track ends
2. Prefer steel, so I can mess around with the dropout spacing, and take care of minor alignment issues if needed
3. Avoid irreparable damage of course, such as bikes that have been obviously crashed and bent
4. A frame that comes with a usable seatpost is a benefit, since there's no standardization of seatpost sizes and it's hard to measure a frame for the correct post. Make sure that you can loosen and adjust the seatpost, because a stuck post is a nightmare
5. In general, the more usable / desirable parts on the frame, the fewer that you have to buy, at least right away. A nice cotterless crank that can be disassembled and fit with different chainrings is a plus.
6. Clearance for wider tires, if that's your preference
7. Bring a tape measure, so you can confirm the dimensions per your preferences
I believe that a lot of 1980s bikes had similar quality lugged steel frames that are good enough for building into a decent single speed bike: Schwinn, Raleigh, Fuji and the Japanese brands in general. If they weren't all made in the same factory, they might as well have been. I don't tend to look at bikes that carry a brand premium, because the sellers want too much for them. Trek comes to mind in my area.
1. Horizontal dropouts or track ends
2. Prefer steel, so I can mess around with the dropout spacing, and take care of minor alignment issues if needed
3. Avoid irreparable damage of course, such as bikes that have been obviously crashed and bent
4. A frame that comes with a usable seatpost is a benefit, since there's no standardization of seatpost sizes and it's hard to measure a frame for the correct post. Make sure that you can loosen and adjust the seatpost, because a stuck post is a nightmare
5. In general, the more usable / desirable parts on the frame, the fewer that you have to buy, at least right away. A nice cotterless crank that can be disassembled and fit with different chainrings is a plus.
6. Clearance for wider tires, if that's your preference
7. Bring a tape measure, so you can confirm the dimensions per your preferences
I believe that a lot of 1980s bikes had similar quality lugged steel frames that are good enough for building into a decent single speed bike: Schwinn, Raleigh, Fuji and the Japanese brands in general. If they weren't all made in the same factory, they might as well have been. I don't tend to look at bikes that carry a brand premium, because the sellers want too much for them. Trek comes to mind in my area.
#814
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Will a standard lock ring tool, such as this one:
Shimano chain whip and lock ring tool
work on a Phil Wood 6-notch lock ring? I see a special tool for the Phil that mimics a cog, so you can loosen the lock ring using a chain whip. I don't want to buy something that specialized if I don't have to.
Don't ask me how I've been loosening my lock rings. You will cringe.
Shimano chain whip and lock ring tool
work on a Phil Wood 6-notch lock ring? I see a special tool for the Phil that mimics a cog, so you can loosen the lock ring using a chain whip. I don't want to buy something that specialized if I don't have to.
Don't ask me how I've been loosening my lock rings. You will cringe.
#815
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Will a standard lock ring tool, such as this one:
Shimano chain whip and lock ring tool
work on a Phil Wood 6-notch lock ring? I see a special tool for the Phil that mimics a cog, so you can loosen the lock ring using a chain whip. I don't want to buy something that specialized if I don't have to.
Don't ask me how I've been loosening my lock rings. You will cringe.
Shimano chain whip and lock ring tool
work on a Phil Wood 6-notch lock ring? I see a special tool for the Phil that mimics a cog, so you can loosen the lock ring using a chain whip. I don't want to buy something that specialized if I don't have to.
Don't ask me how I've been loosening my lock rings. You will cringe.
Same price, and will work with anything. It is much more secure, and will not slip or damage your lockring, not to mention your knuckles.
#816
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Will a standard lock ring tool, such as this one:
Shimano chain whip and lock ring tool
work on a Phil Wood 6-notch lock ring? I see a special tool for the Phil that mimics a cog, so you can loosen the lock ring using a chain whip. I don't want to buy something that specialized if I don't have to.
Don't ask me how I've been loosening my lock rings. You will cringe.
Shimano chain whip and lock ring tool
work on a Phil Wood 6-notch lock ring? I see a special tool for the Phil that mimics a cog, so you can loosen the lock ring using a chain whip. I don't want to buy something that specialized if I don't have to.
Don't ask me how I've been loosening my lock rings. You will cringe.
I have that tool and it's served me well for a while. I know the Hozan lock ring pliers get a lot of love and I'm sure they're great but the nice thing about the TL-SR22 is the added chain whip so you can remove lock rings and also cogs with one tool.
Just curious, how were you removing lock rings w/o a lock ring tool before? Couldn't be worse than a flat head screwdriver and hammer.
#818
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Certainly not! I'm not a Neanderthal. I use a proper pin punch and hammer. (Relax--I support the axle on wood blocks, so the spokes and rim aren't taking the force of my hammer blows.) I warned you not to ask.
Last edited by Broctoon; 07-12-18 at 06:32 PM.
#820
Fresh Garbage
#821
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That's exactly why I like the combination tool. The Hozan pliers seem like a great tool, but they're 45 bux. For that same money, I could get the Shimano lock ring tool + chain whip. I've got a 3/32" chain whip, but not a 1/8". For the cogs, I've been getting by with a scrap of 1/8" chain clamped in a vice.
Certainly not! I'm not a Neanderthal. I use a proper pin punch and hammer. (Relax--I support the axle on wood blocks, so the spokes and rim aren't taking the force of my hammer blows.) I warned you not to ask.
Certainly not! I'm not a Neanderthal. I use a proper pin punch and hammer. (Relax--I support the axle on wood blocks, so the spokes and rim aren't taking the force of my hammer blows.) I warned you not to ask.
#823
Old fart
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#824
Fresh Garbage
#825
- Soli Deo Gloria -
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The modified Channelock looks pretty good.
Maybe a cheap Harbor Freight or Northern Tool pair would do the trick.
-Tim-
Maybe a cheap Harbor Freight or Northern Tool pair would do the trick.
-Tim-