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Replacing internal brake cable

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Replacing internal brake cable

Old 12-03-19, 01:20 PM
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Robert A
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Replacing internal brake cable

I'm planning to replace the brake cables and housings for my CAAD12. The rear cable is routed internally through the top tube. Do I need any special tools to route the cable, and what is the technique for doing so? AFAIK, there is no brake housing inside the top tube.

Thank you,
Robert
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Old 12-03-19, 01:42 PM
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Old 12-03-19, 01:45 PM
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The problem is cost over expected frequency of use. Is there a more economical way to do this?
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Old 12-03-19, 01:51 PM
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Use a vacuum cleaner to suck a piece of string through the frame, then use the string to pull the cable through. (Never done it, just heard about it.)
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Old 12-03-19, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by tyrion
Use a vacuum cleaner to suck a piece of string through the frame, then use the string to pull the cable through. (Never done it, just heard about it.)
similar to this, leave the old cable in place and cut the end off near the head. remove/replace the old housing and any ferrules needed for routing onto the new cable, then tape/solder the end of the new cable to the old cable and pull it through
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Old 12-03-19, 03:06 PM
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You can try a test insertion to see whether special tools are needed. Turns out a Diamondback Podium frame I'm building up was cleverly designed to not need any special techniques for installing new cables. I'd been putting off the rebuild thinking installing new cables would be a nightmare, but some videos from Diamondback and reviewers back around 2014 indicated the Podium was designed to make it easy. I did a quick test with a bit of cable and, sure 'nuff, it slipped right in and out of the frame without any tools or drama.
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Old 12-03-19, 03:08 PM
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BTW, most tutorials for other frames recommend *not* removing the old cable or housing. Instead, use them as guides to drag the new stuff into the frame.
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Old 12-03-19, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert A
The problem is cost over expected frequency of use. Is there a more economical way to do this?
a magnet works sometimes, but it can take a few tries.

most modern bikes use internal routing, so it might be worth the investment if you plan on cycling for many years.

Last edited by noodle soup; 12-03-19 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 12-03-19, 04:03 PM
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I have never changed the cables on a CAAD12 but have done so on at least four Cannondale Synapes in the last year. The Synapse has a pug where the back end of the cables exits the tube. With the plug out I just feed the cable from the front while shining a light in the back hole. Once I see the cable end I hook it with a dental pick (a bent paper clip would work) and fish it out. It takes no time at all. I am not familiar with the CAAD12 so maybe it is different. It has worked on other bikes too.

This does not work on my Santa Cruz Hightower but I had enough room to cut the head off the old cable near the shifter and tape the tail of the new cable to it and fish it through. I was careful to mostly push on the new cable and lightly pull on the old one to guide it as I did not want to pull the taped connection apart.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-03-19, 04:23 PM
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Wow, this can get complicated. I'm glad I've never had a frame that needed this treatment.
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Old 12-03-19, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert A
The problem is cost over expected frequency of use. Is there a more economical way to do this?
Jagwire makes a similar(less expensive)tool, but I’ve never used it(so I can’t give a recommendation).
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Old 12-03-19, 05:32 PM
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I have changed internal cables using the string method.

Tie thread to old cable downstream. Pull through frame. Tie thread to new cable end and pull through gently.

There are also lots of YouTube videos with variants on the theme.
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Old 12-04-19, 09:28 AM
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Cable liner.

Run the liner over the old cable through the frame. Remove the old cable. Insert new cable. Remove liner.

Your LBS probably has some they will sell you cheap. If not, I once bought a 30m spool for like $10. It will last me forever.
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Old 12-07-19, 07:54 PM
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Yep, you can find cable liner on eBay. You just need a metre or two.

Definitely the way to go. Doesn't always work with shift cables depending on the frame, but usually, and it almost always helps. Makes every rear brake cable swap a piece of piss.
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Old 12-10-19, 01:33 PM
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Doing this all the time at race venues as well as in the shop...

I have done them blind with no liners (SUUUCKS). I prefer liners. Cut the heads off the inner and run a liner - bam done. My favorite is a bright light and a j bend spoke - especially on rear brakes through the top tube. Reach in- hook the cable and pull it out.

I do not use any of the routing tools. They all seem nice but I just haven't really needed them. Adding anything to the cable would have created problems in a few situations.

It's a brake cable on an easy frame. Just get it done. You probably don't need anything but I say that knowing I have a whole bag of tricks and experience to throw at it. Just be patient and think of it as a learning experience. Then when done you will understand how stupid it is. Good only for looks and a make believe aero benefit that makes no difference to anyone really.
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Old 12-10-19, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
My favorite is a bright light and a j bend spoke - especially on rear brakes through the top tube. Reach in- hook the cable and pull it out.

I do not use any of the routing tools. They all seem nice but I just haven't really needed them. Adding anything to the cable would have created problems in a few situations.
Bro, you're making things tough on yourself.

They make things really easy when routing hydraulic housing.
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Old 12-11-19, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
Bro, you're making things tough on yourself.

They make things really easy when routing hydraulic housing.
I wouldn't say hard on myself but I am sure there is an opportunity to add it to my toolbox of skills. On hydraulic routing I just use an inner. Works just the same as with housing.
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Old 12-11-19, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Wow, this can get complicated. I'm glad I've never had a frame that needed this treatment.
)Scratches head) Why? Best ever cable routing was done 40 years ago and many times since. Full length housing through three braze-on guides on the top tube centerline. Looks elegant, works very well, requires no maintenance and replacing cables and housings is so simple.

"Internal" housing. Transcript error. From handwritten. A "t" replaced the "f".

Ben
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Old 12-11-19, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
I wouldn't say hard on myself but I am sure there is an opportunity to add it to my toolbox of skills. On hydraulic routing I just use an inner. Works just the same as with housing.
When you finally use the Park Tool IR 1.2, you'll kick yourself for waiting so long.

I've used all the old methods, and nothing makes it as easy as with the Park Tool
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Old 12-11-19, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
Cable liner.

Run the liner over the old cable through the frame. Remove the old cable. Insert new cable. Remove liner.

Your LBS probably has some they will sell you cheap. If not, I once bought a 30m spool for like $10. It will last me forever.
This!
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Old 12-11-19, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
)Scratches head) Why? Best ever cable routing was done 40 years ago and many times since. Full length housing through three braze-on guides on the top tube centerline. Looks elegant, works very well, requires no maintenance and replacing cables and housings is so simple.

"Internal" housing. Transcript error. From handwritten. A "t" replaced the "f".

Ben
I would go a step further and say that exposed external routing was the best. The issue with full housing is, even with highly polished stainless inners and housing with Teflon liners, enough cable drag to be bothersome.

Now with some current systems and frames I have on multiple occasions drilled out the cable stops and run full housing even when it is internal. This has been on cyclocross and gravel bikes when they can repeatedly get the cables contaminated. Made a video about trek boones

While overall there is more drag on a brand new installation the full housing eliminates all possibility of contamination as you mention and works without error almost forever.
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Old 12-12-19, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by noodle soup
When you finally use the Park Tool IR 1.2, you'll kick yourself for waiting so long.

I've used all the old methods, and nothing makes it as easy as with the Park Tool
The jagwire tool works decently well and is like half the price, just another option
https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Inter.../dp/B01MU6R596

maybe a better option for the home mechanic, even using it once it worth the price
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Old 12-12-19, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97
The jagwire tool works decently well and is like half the price, just another option
https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Inter.../dp/B01MU6R596

maybe a better option for the home mechanic, even using it once it worth the price
check post #11

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Old 12-21-19, 01:44 AM
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So tonight I managed to replace the brake cables and housings on my Cannondale CAAD12. Things went well for the most part, and feeding the cable through the top tube wasn't all that difficult.

The only problem I had is that the rear top tube opening is a little large and the rear housing cap slipped into the top tube. I can see the cap with a flashlight, but I can't get it to slide out of the hole. Consequently, some of the rear housing is inside the top tube, and shouldn't be. This is creating too much tension in the cable. It also means that the housing isn't perfectly lined up to the rear brake. It creates a spongy effect in the brake lever.

Before heading down the the LBS for some assistance, is there a way to fix this?
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