Rear Wheel / Wheel Set for 250 Pound Rider
#1
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Thread Starter
Rear Wheel / Wheel Set for 250 Pound Rider
At risk of hearing the saying, "You can have it good, fast, and inexpensive... Pick two.", I'll ask for some advice on wheels.
The bike is a ~10 year old 61cm Cannondale Synapse. I'm still using the original Shimano RS10 wheels (10 speed ultegra cassette), but at least one of the spokes is having issues (loosens up) and the wheel won't stay in true after I ride it (had them trued last week to fix a rubbing issue, and the problem returned within 40-50 miles).
I'm 6'5" and trending towards closer to 250lbs than I would like right now. I've been off my bike for a few years, but have started riding again in the last 4 months. I'm currently riding ~3 days and 50-75 miles per week, but may start to push that out to 100-150 if my schedule allows.
I've seen Ksyrium wheelsets in the $500-$600 range and I understand they are an excellent wheel for that price point, but are a little spendy for my current bike budget. They also give a weight rating (rider + bike) of 265lb, and I'm a bit over that. They're not completely off the table for me, but I'm resistant to spending more on wheels than my bike is probably worth.
I've seen lots of sales online right now, including some RS500 wheels for under $300 shipped, but they show a max rider weight rating of 220. Other wheels I'm seeing online have pricing in the $200-$300 range, but don't show a max rider weight. The guy at my LBS (who trued the wheels for me) suggested this issue may come back and that if it did I could either rebuild the wheel or get a new one - he commented that rebuilding was not a great option for this wheel, but that he could do it for about $150 (I have no idea what goes into rebuilding a wheel at that price). He said they could build me "a good rear wheel" that is better suited to my larger stature for about $300, but noted that it would come at some premium on wheel weight. They were busy and they were just fitting me in, he and I figured I should try the wheel out again, so we didn't get into specifics for either option.
So here is the question, what do larger riders consider the "Best bang for your buck" rear wheel / wheel set, balancing cost / strength / weight of the wheel?
To add more confusion, I currently run tubes. I've been told (by nearly everyone) that I should switch over to tubeless. What do other Clydes on here think of that? I'm guessing if I wanted to go that route I would need a new front wheel and couldn't get away with just buying a rear.
Thanks in advance for the input.
The bike is a ~10 year old 61cm Cannondale Synapse. I'm still using the original Shimano RS10 wheels (10 speed ultegra cassette), but at least one of the spokes is having issues (loosens up) and the wheel won't stay in true after I ride it (had them trued last week to fix a rubbing issue, and the problem returned within 40-50 miles).
I'm 6'5" and trending towards closer to 250lbs than I would like right now. I've been off my bike for a few years, but have started riding again in the last 4 months. I'm currently riding ~3 days and 50-75 miles per week, but may start to push that out to 100-150 if my schedule allows.
I've seen Ksyrium wheelsets in the $500-$600 range and I understand they are an excellent wheel for that price point, but are a little spendy for my current bike budget. They also give a weight rating (rider + bike) of 265lb, and I'm a bit over that. They're not completely off the table for me, but I'm resistant to spending more on wheels than my bike is probably worth.
I've seen lots of sales online right now, including some RS500 wheels for under $300 shipped, but they show a max rider weight rating of 220. Other wheels I'm seeing online have pricing in the $200-$300 range, but don't show a max rider weight. The guy at my LBS (who trued the wheels for me) suggested this issue may come back and that if it did I could either rebuild the wheel or get a new one - he commented that rebuilding was not a great option for this wheel, but that he could do it for about $150 (I have no idea what goes into rebuilding a wheel at that price). He said they could build me "a good rear wheel" that is better suited to my larger stature for about $300, but noted that it would come at some premium on wheel weight. They were busy and they were just fitting me in, he and I figured I should try the wheel out again, so we didn't get into specifics for either option.
So here is the question, what do larger riders consider the "Best bang for your buck" rear wheel / wheel set, balancing cost / strength / weight of the wheel?
To add more confusion, I currently run tubes. I've been told (by nearly everyone) that I should switch over to tubeless. What do other Clydes on here think of that? I'm guessing if I wanted to go that route I would need a new front wheel and couldn't get away with just buying a rear.
Thanks in advance for the input.
#2
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IMHO good quality 32h rims should work fine..... 36 better
i think the unless you are riding bigger that 32mm tires at low pressures, tube is the way to go, less hassles in general. Some in goathead territory swear by tubeless even for smaller tires, but remember tubeless was to solve the pinch flat problem in big, low pressuer mountain bike tires
here is a set of 36h ultegra for $259 https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...oducts_id=4502
i think the unless you are riding bigger that 32mm tires at low pressures, tube is the way to go, less hassles in general. Some in goathead territory swear by tubeless even for smaller tires, but remember tubeless was to solve the pinch flat problem in big, low pressuer mountain bike tires
here is a set of 36h ultegra for $259 https://www.velomine.com/index.php?m...oducts_id=4502
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#3
Senior Member
I am larger than you and rode Mavic Aksiums (24/20 spokes) for 10 years before I got my new bike. Zero issues with them. Only reason I don't any more is I got a new bike with through axles and they won't work on it. A lot of companies don't put rider weight limits on their wheels. Rolf, Bontrager, Spinergy to name a few.
You don't need 32 or 36 hole wheels. I wouldn't go less than 24 in the back, but I probably wouldn't go less than that. Take them to your wheel guy and have him go through them and make sure the spokes are properly tensioned.
My new bike came with DT Swiss 1850 wheels. So far I like them, but I only have 200 miles on them so way too soon to speak about durability. They are tubeless ready and the tires are tubeless ready, but I'm running tubes. I'm planning on switching over to tubeless soon though.
You don't need 32 or 36 hole wheels. I wouldn't go less than 24 in the back, but I probably wouldn't go less than that. Take them to your wheel guy and have him go through them and make sure the spokes are properly tensioned.
My new bike came with DT Swiss 1850 wheels. So far I like them, but I only have 200 miles on them so way too soon to speak about durability. They are tubeless ready and the tires are tubeless ready, but I'm running tubes. I'm planning on switching over to tubeless soon though.
#4
Senior Member
I am larger than you and rode Mavic Aksiums (24/20 spokes) for 10 years before I got my new bike. Zero issues with them. Only reason I don't any more is I got a new bike with through axles and they won't work on it. A lot of companies don't put rider weight limits on their wheels. Rolf, Bontrager, Spinergy to name a few.
You don't need 32 or 36 hole wheels. I wouldn't go less than 24 in the back, but I probably wouldn't go less than that. Take them to your wheel guy and have him go through them and make sure the spokes are properly tensioned.
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#5
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I broke a rear hub flange on a 24-spoke Bontrager wheelset riding hard over a train track. Would it have broken if I'd ridden lighter and unweighted the wheel? Probably not, and I am usually very good about doing that, but this is the kind of thing people do every day in the real world. I was around 275 or so at the time. So what's the OP to do, rely on your 10 years of not breaking a 24-spoke rear wheel, or rely on my experience of breaking a 24-spoke wheel? I have had other experiences as well, such as a 32-spoke rear wheel eating itself after not all that long a time. Granted, the rim in question (first-gen Pacenti SL23) was found in practice to be susceptible to exactly what happened to me (cracks around the spoke holes), but my heavy weight, even with 32 spokes, almost certainly precipitated that rim's demise sooner even than it already did with thinner riders.
I have yet to read anything from an experienced wheelbuilder who has dealt with heavy riders before that would agree with you on this. The universal advice, at least from what I've read in the past, has been that for heavy riders more spokes is better, plus having a decent and consistent build. If you rode the living crap out of a 24-spoke wheel for ten years and were just fine then my hat's off to you and congrats, but I don't see this good experience being generalized as a good idea. I can't point to everything I've read on the subject because it's been on a variety of forums and websites and blogs and such over the years, and is a topic of personal relevance to me since in my middle-aged return to cycling I've always been (and still am) a heavy rider. All I can say is that I've read a lot that contradicts the advice you're giving, and nothing that supported it.
I have yet to read anything from an experienced wheelbuilder who has dealt with heavy riders before that would agree with you on this. The universal advice, at least from what I've read in the past, has been that for heavy riders more spokes is better, plus having a decent and consistent build. If you rode the living crap out of a 24-spoke wheel for ten years and were just fine then my hat's off to you and congrats, but I don't see this good experience being generalized as a good idea. I can't point to everything I've read on the subject because it's been on a variety of forums and websites and blogs and such over the years, and is a topic of personal relevance to me since in my middle-aged return to cycling I've always been (and still am) a heavy rider. All I can say is that I've read a lot that contradicts the advice you're giving, and nothing that supported it.
I'm not a wheel builder and don't claim to be. But what you mentioned is the key - even spoke tension and a decent build. I recommend anyone of any weight take a wheelset to a reputable wheel builder and have them go over it before they ride them. That's just common sense. That's what I've done on every set I've ever owned.
Is there merit to buying a 32 or 36 spoke wheel? Sure. I never said there wasn't. I'm just saying that in my experience having 24 or 28 spokes is not a reason to not consider a particular wheelset.
#6
Senior Member
I think it's worth pointing out the part that the rim has to play in all of this. While a 20/24 wheelset can work, the strength (=weight) that must be built into the rim can make that wheelset a less enjoyable experience to ride than a 32 spoke wheelset with a lighter rim. Another big consideration is that a spoke breaking on a 24 or less spoke wheel can render them unrideable. 32 and up can usually stay true enough or be mended on the road to make it home. I'm also not a big fan of ultralight hubs and soft light spline materials being used in wheels to bring their advertised weight down. That non-rotational mass doesn't really mean much to a big rider but can make a world of difference to longevity as we give them a pounding
FWIW I've never been a fanboy of Mavic wheels. They do look nice, but seeing riders in the bunches I've rode with over the years break one of their proprietary spokes and have a mountain of trouble sourcing new ones turned me off. Mavics came stock on my current bike and I sold them immediately.
I had a dream fatboy race wheelset made a few years ago. Kinlin XC279 rims 28/32 to CXray spokes and Dura Ace hubs. They cost me around $1k when I got them from Prowheelbuilder. They needed a true after the first few rides but have stayed true ever since (~5000km). I've since gotten into wheel building and built up my current MTB rims. I'll build up something to replace my wheels when they start getting old. Likely though, they will last a lot longer yet and I'll keep the hubs and just rebuild to new spokes and rim. If I get a new bike though, it will be a whole new wheelset as I'll be going to discs next.
Buy whatever floats your boat. There's good and bad points for every option that can be thrown at you. Another option to look at are Fulcrum wheels. I've seen a lot of them over the years and under a few 100-120kg riders and they've never failed aside from bearings needing replacement due to high mileage.
FWIW I've never been a fanboy of Mavic wheels. They do look nice, but seeing riders in the bunches I've rode with over the years break one of their proprietary spokes and have a mountain of trouble sourcing new ones turned me off. Mavics came stock on my current bike and I sold them immediately.
I had a dream fatboy race wheelset made a few years ago. Kinlin XC279 rims 28/32 to CXray spokes and Dura Ace hubs. They cost me around $1k when I got them from Prowheelbuilder. They needed a true after the first few rides but have stayed true ever since (~5000km). I've since gotten into wheel building and built up my current MTB rims. I'll build up something to replace my wheels when they start getting old. Likely though, they will last a lot longer yet and I'll keep the hubs and just rebuild to new spokes and rim. If I get a new bike though, it will be a whole new wheelset as I'll be going to discs next.
Buy whatever floats your boat. There's good and bad points for every option that can be thrown at you. Another option to look at are Fulcrum wheels. I've seen a lot of them over the years and under a few 100-120kg riders and they've never failed aside from bearings needing replacement due to high mileage.
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230 now but I was riding at well over 300 for some time. At 250 you don't have to worry too much. The shimano wheels are not that great to begin with, almost anything will be able to replace it many under 50 bucks. If you do want to upgrade wheel just upgrade the rear wheel that is the one you have to worry about. Then you can get a 32 spoke count 1.5 or greater rim (that will actually fit the bike and you will be good but they are somewhat expensive. Rebuilding that wheel would be pretty silly but you could just replace the spoke and get some more life from it.
#8
Senior Member
I had a dream fatboy race wheelset made a few years ago. Kinlin XC279 rims 28/32 to CXray spokes and Dura Ace hubs. They cost me around $1k when I got them from Prowheelbuilder. They needed a true after the first few rides but have stayed true ever since (~5000km). I've since gotten into wheel building and built up my current MTB rims. I'll build up something to replace my wheels when they start getting old. Likely though, they will last a lot longer yet and I'll keep the hubs and just rebuild to new spokes and rim. If I get a new bike though, it will be a whole new wheelset as I'll be going to discs next.
#9
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LB rims are nice. I have a set on my good velo track race wheels as seen in my avatar. The guy that built them for me worked at Zipp for a while, so he's seen some nice wheels and was pleasantly surprised by their quality. They've never needed to be trued and have seen maybe 1000km of race use
#10
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I'm just posting from my personal experience. If you want to say I'm wrong then by all means say I'm wrong.
[snip]
Is there merit to buying a 32 or 36 spoke wheel? Sure. I never said there wasn't. I'm just saying that in my experience having 24 or 28 spokes is not a reason to not consider a particular wheelset.
[snip]
Is there merit to buying a 32 or 36 spoke wheel? Sure. I never said there wasn't. I'm just saying that in my experience having 24 or 28 spokes is not a reason to not consider a particular wheelset.
I'm actually building a new front wheel that will have 28 spokes. I'd ride a rear wheel with 28, but if I want or expect the wheel to last for a long time (many thousands of miles) I wouldn't build one. Maybe it'd last, maybe it wouldn't, but I know this: the same rim and hub and spoke type with 32 or 36 of them will last longer under me.
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The rim material, rim width and tire width and pressure matter too but more spokes will be more sturdy, though I did use only 26 spokes at over 300 and none broke until recently one broke. I'd like to get 36 spoke replacements. I may go with the ones someonw posted in another thread here that are less than 200 for a set.
https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/BW...eore-Disc.html
https://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/BW...eore-Disc.html
Last edited by Oneder; 05-12-20 at 01:23 AM.
#12
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I broke a rear hub flange on a 24-spoke Bontrager wheelset riding hard over a train track. Would it have broken if I'd ridden lighter and unweighted the wheel? Probably not, and I am usually very good about doing that, but this is the kind of thing people do every day in the real world. I was around 275 or so at the time. So what's the OP to do, rely on your 10 years of not breaking a 24-spoke rear wheel, or rely on my experience of breaking a 24-spoke wheel? I have had other experiences as well, such as a 32-spoke rear wheel eating itself after not all that long a time. Granted, the rim in question (first-gen Pacenti SL23) was found in practice to be susceptible to exactly what happened to me (cracks around the spoke holes), but my heavy weight, even with 32 spokes, almost certainly precipitated that rim's demise sooner even than it already did with thinner riders.
.
.
I'm not a wheel builder and don't claim to be. But what you mentioned is the key - even spoke tension and a decent build. I recommend anyone of any weight take a wheelset to a reputable wheel builder and have them go over it before they ride them. That's just common sense. That's what I've done on every set I've ever owned.
Is there merit to buying a 32 or 36 spoke wheel? Sure. I never said there wasn't. I'm just saying that in my experience having 24 or 28 spokes is not a reason to not consider a particular wheelset.
Is there merit to buying a 32 or 36 spoke wheel? Sure. I never said there wasn't. I'm just saying that in my experience having 24 or 28 spokes is not a reason to not consider a particular wheelset.
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#13
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Thread Starter
Thanks all for the responses.
So far I've resisted the impulse to buy the Mavic Ksyrium Elites I found being sold online for $450. They're pretty, and light, and it's what the "cool kids" have... but I'm really not any of those things.
I need to remind myself that while a relatively strong rider, I'm not in my 20's (or even 40's) anymore and I'm not in this for competition (besides the occasional attempt to beat down a friend on a particular Strava segment). Buying something a little heavier, but that will carry a load and won't require frequent trips to the LBS for truing is probably the smart play.
Anyone else want to weigh in on going to tubeless? I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, and goat heads are a concern on many of the local trails. I've been running Gatorskins (25cm) with tire liners, so I'm not going ultralight there. I'm just wondering if larger riders on road bikes find the move to tubeless to be better at combating flats, or as a way to recover that weight from heavier wheels?
So far I've resisted the impulse to buy the Mavic Ksyrium Elites I found being sold online for $450. They're pretty, and light, and it's what the "cool kids" have... but I'm really not any of those things.
I need to remind myself that while a relatively strong rider, I'm not in my 20's (or even 40's) anymore and I'm not in this for competition (besides the occasional attempt to beat down a friend on a particular Strava segment). Buying something a little heavier, but that will carry a load and won't require frequent trips to the LBS for truing is probably the smart play.
Anyone else want to weigh in on going to tubeless? I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area, and goat heads are a concern on many of the local trails. I've been running Gatorskins (25cm) with tire liners, so I'm not going ultralight there. I'm just wondering if larger riders on road bikes find the move to tubeless to be better at combating flats, or as a way to recover that weight from heavier wheels?
#14
Senior Member
Probably don’t take this as weighing in but rather thinking out loud.
I saw a lot of chat about going tubeless up to maybe a year ago but not much has come across my radar since. I’m a bit like you and run liners inside my tyres, but I race and therefore run GP4S2s. My biggest concern with tubeless was because I race, I run high pressures. Hard cornering at maybe 80psi and a 120kg rider don’t mix well. From there, there wasn’t a sealant that I’d come across that coped with high pressures either. So the tyre might seal as the pressure dropped, but I’d have a bike and perhaps me covered in sealant as it got to a point where the puncture sealed. I’d read a few stories of that happening. So perhaps with sealant I could keep going to get home without stopping, but I’d rather be clean and not have to clean my bike and take 5min to change my tube. I run tubeless on my MTB but those pressures are much lower.
I’d be keen to hear if things have progressed in the world of tubeless though as it does make sense
I saw a lot of chat about going tubeless up to maybe a year ago but not much has come across my radar since. I’m a bit like you and run liners inside my tyres, but I race and therefore run GP4S2s. My biggest concern with tubeless was because I race, I run high pressures. Hard cornering at maybe 80psi and a 120kg rider don’t mix well. From there, there wasn’t a sealant that I’d come across that coped with high pressures either. So the tyre might seal as the pressure dropped, but I’d have a bike and perhaps me covered in sealant as it got to a point where the puncture sealed. I’d read a few stories of that happening. So perhaps with sealant I could keep going to get home without stopping, but I’d rather be clean and not have to clean my bike and take 5min to change my tube. I run tubeless on my MTB but those pressures are much lower.
I’d be keen to hear if things have progressed in the world of tubeless though as it does make sense
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#15
Junior Member
I started out at 265 lbs 3 years ago when I began cycling. I was down to 250 when I bought a 2015 Cannondale Synapse with Reynolds 45cm carbon wheels in August 2018.
I'm down to 224 now and have ridden these (no weight limit) wheels for over 8,300 miles and they're riding as smooth as the day that I bought them.
Reynolds wheels have no weight limit so would work for you. They'll increase your speed a tad and cushion bumps in the road a tad over aluminum wheels, as well. I see sets for sale on different FB forums for anywhere from $500 to $900, fairly often.
Good luck and keep riding!
Gary
I'm down to 224 now and have ridden these (no weight limit) wheels for over 8,300 miles and they're riding as smooth as the day that I bought them.
Reynolds wheels have no weight limit so would work for you. They'll increase your speed a tad and cushion bumps in the road a tad over aluminum wheels, as well. I see sets for sale on different FB forums for anywhere from $500 to $900, fairly often.
Good luck and keep riding!
Gary
#16
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So far I've resisted the impulse to buy the Mavic Ksyrium Elites ......... and it's what the "cool kids" have... but I'm really not any of those things.
I'm not in this for competition (besides the occasional attempt to beat down a friend on a particular Strava segment).
Anyone else want to weigh in on going to tubeless?
I'm not in this for competition (besides the occasional attempt to beat down a friend on a particular Strava segment).
Anyone else want to weigh in on going to tubeless?
You know you want the Ksyriums....... I’m not “the cool kids” I’m 56!
You know you can beat my Segments (unless that rear wheel folds) I’m 56!
Tubeless....I went, got the T-shirt, never looked back! Oh and I’m 56!
Next time we ride feel free to brag about beating the old guy again.
You really want to be just like me
your friend (honest)
Barry
#17
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Thread Starter
Ha ha... once again Barry2 , this is not all about you. ;-) I'm just a luddite who doesn't want to change for the sake of change or spend money on something I won't appreciate over what I have been using..
If tubeless really is better for heavier road bike riders, I'm interested in knowing how / why. Given the "tire pressure estimators" I've looked at, it sounds like my optimum rear pressure 25 or 28cm tires (I believe that's "tyres" to you) would be over the recommended max on tuebless (100psi?).
I heard being a proper Englishman adds 10-15 years to the age you act, so yes, you're old.
XOXO
If tubeless really is better for heavier road bike riders, I'm interested in knowing how / why. Given the "tire pressure estimators" I've looked at, it sounds like my optimum rear pressure 25 or 28cm tires (I believe that's "tyres" to you) would be over the recommended max on tuebless (100psi?).
I heard being a proper Englishman adds 10-15 years to the age you act, so yes, you're old.
XOXO
Last edited by Ugly Dwarf; 05-13-20 at 01:19 PM.
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#19
Senior Member
I don't necessarily think tubeless is "better". Well, on mountain bikes I definitely do, and on gravel bikes. On the road I have never had a flat problem anyways. I will say that I like tubeless because I can run less pressure and not worry about pinch flats. So the ride is smoother.
And just to add more to the spoke conversation, I will say that I just counted the spokes on my main wheels (Mavic Aksium Race) and they are 20/20, not 24/20. I was probably pushing my luck with them, but I successfully pushed it for a decade.
And just to add more to the spoke conversation, I will say that I just counted the spokes on my main wheels (Mavic Aksium Race) and they are 20/20, not 24/20. I was probably pushing my luck with them, but I successfully pushed it for a decade.
#20
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tubeless and ride etc.
the first thing on getting a good ride is buying good tires, whether tubed, tubeless or tubular..... and they are not cheap. I remember at how amazed I was the first time i put high end tubed tires on a bike....I had cheaped out before on tires...night and day difference, will never cheap out again
if you want the smoothest ride go for tubular, nothing compares (and personally they seem to me to be less hassle than tubeless ymmv )
no matter what you get make sure you can handle a flat....get the tire off, put it back on seated, etc. Tubeless are NOT Flat proof....and (no experience here but based on all the posts in mechanics) apparently can be a hassle with things like bead setting on the road. I know with a tubed tire, after I put a new one on....if it was tight going on, I do a simulated flat fix with the gear i carry to make sure I can do it in time of need course I carry 2 tubes, a pump and a patch kit...
the first thing on getting a good ride is buying good tires, whether tubed, tubeless or tubular..... and they are not cheap. I remember at how amazed I was the first time i put high end tubed tires on a bike....I had cheaped out before on tires...night and day difference, will never cheap out again
if you want the smoothest ride go for tubular, nothing compares (and personally they seem to me to be less hassle than tubeless ymmv )
no matter what you get make sure you can handle a flat....get the tire off, put it back on seated, etc. Tubeless are NOT Flat proof....and (no experience here but based on all the posts in mechanics) apparently can be a hassle with things like bead setting on the road. I know with a tubed tire, after I put a new one on....if it was tight going on, I do a simulated flat fix with the gear i carry to make sure I can do it in time of need course I carry 2 tubes, a pump and a patch kit...
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#21
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After warping a standard Trek rear rim at 255lbs, bought a set of Rhyno Lites off fleabay, 36h, and have occasionally hit hard potholes without damage (bloody well NOT intentional). Reviewers called them "bomb-proof" and a member said he leapfrogs boulders without damage.... Cost, dunno, got mine used for 75 usd with hubs and a 9 speed cassette. All still going strong years later.
#22
Senior Member
no matter what you get make sure you can handle a flat....get the tire off, put it back on seated, etc. Tubeless are NOT Flat proof....and (no experience here but based on all the posts in mechanics) apparently can be a hassle with things like bead setting on the road.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Paradise, TX
Posts: 2,087
Bikes: Soma Pescadero, Surly Pugsley, Salsa Fargo, Schwinn Klunker, Gravity SS 27.5, Monocog 29er
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I have been running a set of Velo Orange touring hubs and rims for about 10 years now. 36 hole rear 32 hole front, they outlasted my Cross Check and are now on a Soma Pescador.
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#24
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 6,319
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
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I also have a set of wheels built around Velo Orange Grand Cru Touring hubs. I went 36 front/36 rear. Probably not necessary for the front wheel, but I figured the extra weight was negligible compared to piece of mind.
#25
Senior Member
FWIW one of my mountain bikes is 23 years old. After finally breaking a few too many spoke that I went in for rebuild. It’s a Mavic rim on a Shimano hub with 32 spokes.
i think the most telling thing about that wheel is how much it’s survived. I’ve been riding that bike weighing as much as 290lbs and the wheels have landed my safely when I’ve had the bike in the air.
I think the quality of the build is the most important.
i think the most telling thing about that wheel is how much it’s survived. I’ve been riding that bike weighing as much as 290lbs and the wheels have landed my safely when I’ve had the bike in the air.
I think the quality of the build is the most important.
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