Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#6826
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#6827
Happy banana slug
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Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
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Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
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Well, well, well....what do we have here
1998 Hardrock Sport. Not the fanciest bike, but it's at least DB chromoly and in really great shape. And the top tube is about 22.5", right where I like it for drop bar bikes .
Oh, and it was free!
Trying to decide what route to go with it - either keeping the V-brakes and running drop bar levers with barcons or switch to cantis and run an 8 speed Campy Mirage triple group.
This will be my second experience with 26" wheels, the first being a 1985 Mirada that I did not get along with at all. This geometry looks a lot steeper in the front end so I think it will be a bit better feeling ride for me.
1998 Hardrock Sport. Not the fanciest bike, but it's at least DB chromoly and in really great shape. And the top tube is about 22.5", right where I like it for drop bar bikes .
Oh, and it was free!
Trying to decide what route to go with it - either keeping the V-brakes and running drop bar levers with barcons or switch to cantis and run an 8 speed Campy Mirage triple group.
This will be my second experience with 26" wheels, the first being a 1985 Mirada that I did not get along with at all. This geometry looks a lot steeper in the front end so I think it will be a bit better feeling ride for me.
#6828
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#6829
Happy banana slug
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Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
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#6830
Member
My Rockhopper conversion. Also did the 1x conversion as well, its my first time running the single up front. Been meaning to post here for awhile (long time lurker). She rides pretty sweet.
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#6831
bOsscO
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What tires did you choose?
Cassette looks big; whats the range?
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#6832
Member
They are Compass (Rene Herse) Rat Trap Pass. Pretty much the whole reason for this build actually. I highly recommend. (I got the pair for $40 off of ebay, they were pretty worn, but it was perfect to see what I thought) They are no slower than typical road bike tires on pavement, and soak up moderate sized chunk in the gravel.
Cassette is 11-42 10 spd, but I had to drop a gear to get it to fit on the older freehub. So its really a 9 spd. I swapped out the whole drivetrain, except for the crankset. Sunrace cassette, Sram GX derailler, and Sram apex brifters, and fsa megatooth 1x chainring.
#6833
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Thanks!
They are Compass (Rene Herse) Rat Trap Pass. Pretty much the whole reason for this build actually. I highly recommend. (I got the pair for $40 off of ebay, they were pretty worn, but it was perfect to see what I thought) They are no slower than typical road bike tires on pavement, and soak up moderate sized chunk in the gravel.
Cassette is 11-42 10 spd, but I had to drop a gear to get it to fit on the older freehub. So its really a 9 spd. I swapped out the whole drivetrain, except for the crankset. Sunrace cassette, Sram GX derailler, and Sram apex brifters, and fsa megatooth 1x chainring.
They are Compass (Rene Herse) Rat Trap Pass. Pretty much the whole reason for this build actually. I highly recommend. (I got the pair for $40 off of ebay, they were pretty worn, but it was perfect to see what I thought) They are no slower than typical road bike tires on pavement, and soak up moderate sized chunk in the gravel.
Cassette is 11-42 10 spd, but I had to drop a gear to get it to fit on the older freehub. So its really a 9 spd. I swapped out the whole drivetrain, except for the crankset. Sunrace cassette, Sram GX derailler, and Sram apex brifters, and fsa megatooth 1x chainring.
#6834
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What are you running for a front ring? How many teeth? Have you done gear-inch calculations for high and low gears? I'll bet with that 11-42 on 26" tires it comes in pretty low!
#6835
Member
Front ring is 42 tooth FSA megatooth. According to Sheldon Brown's calculator its a range of 26-100 gear inch. The 26" wheels don't make a huge difference, as its a 2.3" tire. Effective diameter is the same as 700x25.
#6836
I am potato.
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Here is my 1997 Trek 6500zx
The bars look high, but when accounting for suspension sag of the 100mm travel RockShox Recon while riding, the reach & drop is consistent with my road bikes. The intent is to run in suspension mode over rough terrain & in lock-out over smooth. This also keeps the drops handy.
1x Gevenalle shifters for short pull (road/cantilever) brakes and 11 speed mountain, Dyna-sys drivetrain. $175, delivered. Selection of the right shifter for an application couldn't be easier. Just select from a drop down menu on the Gevenalle website for each aspect & boom the right shifters show up at your door in a few days.
The crankset is a 27 tooth Schlumpf speed-drive, & is mated to an 11-46 cassette and M9000 derailleur. All together 715% range from 15-110 gear inches.
The entire conversion ran less than $250 for bars, stem, zero-offset seatpost, shifters, cables & housing. (1 gallon Cranktank and Revelate frame bag not included. )
20200904_081719 by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
The bars look high, but when accounting for suspension sag of the 100mm travel RockShox Recon while riding, the reach & drop is consistent with my road bikes. The intent is to run in suspension mode over rough terrain & in lock-out over smooth. This also keeps the drops handy.
1x Gevenalle shifters for short pull (road/cantilever) brakes and 11 speed mountain, Dyna-sys drivetrain. $175, delivered. Selection of the right shifter for an application couldn't be easier. Just select from a drop down menu on the Gevenalle website for each aspect & boom the right shifters show up at your door in a few days.
The crankset is a 27 tooth Schlumpf speed-drive, & is mated to an 11-46 cassette and M9000 derailleur. All together 715% range from 15-110 gear inches.
The entire conversion ran less than $250 for bars, stem, zero-offset seatpost, shifters, cables & housing. (1 gallon Cranktank and Revelate frame bag not included. )
20200904_081719 by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
Last edited by base2; 09-04-20 at 11:07 AM.
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#6837
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I don't set mine quite as high as that, but it's not that far off. As far as the Midge bars go, I love them and they are one of the classic dirt drop bars, with a very shallow drop. The usual advice is to set them up so the drop is the default position. I prefer mine rotated from what's shown there so the drop is closer to horizontal.
#6838
Junior Member
Specialized rockhopper comp 1994
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#6839
Senior Member
Does yours have rack braze-ons? Mine (Comp model) does not.
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#6841
Junior Member
#6842
Junior Member
Question for those who've take the plunge.
I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
#6844
Junior Member
Waiting on parts for my 90' Rockhopper gravel conversion. Will post a picture when done.
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#6846
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I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
#6847
Junior Member
I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
#6848
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I have a size "Large" 1993 stumpjumper, top tube measured at roughly 58-59cm when I normally ride 55-56cm bikes. It took time to figure out how to approach the reach because I felt stretched out on it despite having a long torso. I use a 80mm 25 deg stem with flared drop bars at pretty tall stem height to make it feel sort of comfortable, but I feel aches after around 2 hours of riding. Not sure how to proceed with it yet. I had a size "medium" 1995 stumpjumper that I sold, and even then I think the top tube measured at 57-58cm. Maybe having to have a higher seatpost height would've decreased reach?
You need to research vintage frame geometries and look for shorter top tubes..obvious, I know. They do exist. Take a look at the top tube length of the 1990-1993(4?) Trek mountain bikes, specifically the 900 series, though maybe the 800 series too(haven't looked). relative to TT length of the late '90s.
I converted a Trek 970 (haven't posted pics yet) to a dropbar touring bike..fits great.,,very similar to my road bikes. We just completed a 275 mile tour (6 days)..no fatigue from a bad fit.
#6849
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I've read in a couple of these threads that "the cockpit feels a bit cramped." If you've converted a mtb to drop bars, do you find that to be the case? The reason I'm asking is that I have a 1990 Hardrock that I'd like to convert to drops, but the frame is too big. At least, as a mountain bike, it's too big. (It's a 20 frame and I really need a 16 or 17") However...in a rode bike, 20" is the perfect size. So, if I convert to drop bars, will the too large mountain bike frame feel about right as a road/gravel'ish bike? I'm wondering if, instead of feeling cramped I would feel comfortable. Thoughts?
Nothing magical happens when you do the conversion. Measure the frame stack and reach of your bike and also, more importantly, the stack and reach of your bike's current handlebars. Then look up the reach of some drop bars you'd like (most bars will have a diagram with reach, drop..etc.. indicated). Next, use this calculator:
Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
to get an idea what adjustments to the stack and reach you can reasonably make through a stem and/or headtube-stem extender. Also, do some research on what threaded, or threadless stems are available so you have an idea what to plug into the calculator.
The drop bar reach will add to the overall handlebar reach of the finished bike..all the major data on how a conversion will turn out is available to you before you begin a conversion..either in available stems, extenders, or dropbars in combination with the calculator above. The only unknown is how the finished conversion will feel and whether it's inside your acceptable bike stack and reach ranges.
The "cramped cockpit" comments may have been from someone who has a bike-frame one size too small in the effort to get a shorter top tube. Since the conversion increases the handlebar reach, they're hoping the cramped feeling will expand into their comfort zone. I had a one-size-too-small mountain bike that was to be converted to drop bars..it was too small overall, and wasn't going to get better (do the numbers), so I sold it and got the usual size that fits me.
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#6850
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I don't set mine quite as high as that, but it's not that far off. As far as the Midge bars go, I love them and they are one of the classic dirt drop bars, with a very shallow drop. The usual advice is to set them up so the drop is the default position. I prefer mine rotated from what's shown there so the drop is closer to horizontal.