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Show us your vintage mountain bikes!

Old 09-05-20, 02:13 AM
  #7426  
noahsmonark
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Here's my 1998 Tunturi Kayapo, the bike is Finnish and the frame is plasma welded in Finland as well, it's a pretty light weight ride. Back in the days it was my dream bike after it won with a five-star review in a local mag mtb round-up - I got it when I was 15 in '98 and have ridden it ever since.

Originally it was all Shimano STX parts but things have been replaced over the years - and last week it got a brand new BB, chain, chainrings, cassette, pedals (MKS BM-7 for that old-school flavour) etc. New break pads and tires, too. Wheels are dead straight (I had to true them a little), though the rear wheel had been replaced a few years ago after the old one just gave up and cracked while driving. I imagine it had quite a bit of kms/miles on it at that point.

This thing has got a lot of scratches and wear on the surface, I have torn off the original decals at some point (and replaced with some electric tape hahah) but technically it's like new now, just like it was brought from the store yesterday. All the memories this bike has...
















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Old 09-05-20, 03:30 AM
  #7427  
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Originally Posted by curbtender
Not trying to sell this for this guy, but was wondering about his claims. Ritchey design/Bridgestone made...
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik...168367241.html

1985 Schwinn High Sierra:made by Bridgestone Japan, 21" - $725 (oakland lake merritt / grand)

image 1 of 17
Frame (Ritchey frame design): 4130 chrome-moly tri caliber main tubes, 4130 crome-moly stays, forged double eyelet dropouts, tange new falcon sealed headset, 21", Made in Japan!, WB=109.4cm, jet black
Wheels: rims Araya 7X alloy (26x1.75), hubs Shimano Deore XT, alloy, large flange, 36H S/S 14G, sealed bearings
F&R derailleurs: Shimano XT, Shimano LX Exage 300
Brakes: Diacomp 980 alloy, Diacomp mountain levers
Cranks: SR SAC-310 forged alloy: 175:48/38/28, new OMNI Racer Square Taper Cromo Steel Bottom Bracket
Freewheel: Suntour PT-5000: 32-14T
Seat/post:Serfas, SR CRE-100X (Sakae Two way quick release adjustable saddle, longitudinal adj)
Shifters: SunTour micro lite
Pedals: SR touring
Handlebar/stem: SR aluminum alloy
Extras: Rear rack w/ "Rack Mate"(rare), water bottle holder, Double kickstand to stabilize a loaded bike!
The bike has been completely overhauled: new brake and shifter cables, upgraded bottom bracket (sealed bearing), dis-assembled, de-greased, polished aluminum, lubricated, reassembled, tuned.
This is a solid all-terrain machine made when mountain bikes just came into being. They are typically over engineered, over built with the highest quality components, and therefore, made to last. This is a rare survivor
my Takara Highlander has similar specs. 4130, old Shimano deore, made to last forever.



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Old 09-05-20, 06:01 PM
  #7428  
amillhench
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Just got this 88(?) Jamis Dakar Sport up and running. Tange Prestige frame with Tange MTB fork.

Deore drivetrain is sweet, and it’s my first u-brake. Plenty of power to skid that rear tire.

Swapped out the handlebars for some Sim Works getaround bars, new grips and cables all around. Waiting on new tires now.

Obviously the seat is a stand in.

Anyone have a yellow Flite?







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Old 09-06-20, 07:39 AM
  #7429  
curbtender
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Nice job on that Dakar. I like the keg carrier.
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Old 09-07-20, 07:47 AM
  #7430  
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Similar frames indeed... They must be japanese and very similar production time.. Interesting that i found one bike, locally and just yesterday, that cought my eye right away because it looked a lot like. My Ritchey ascent.. It was a Spanish brand (Monty) and used U breaks both front and rear.. Otherwise pretty similar to these læst three modeIs.. The owner has a lil store in the corner, and he said it belongs to his Brother in law, so I asked the guy to tell him that i want to buy it.. If i buy it i will post some pics
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Old 09-07-20, 09:12 AM
  #7431  
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1988 Stumpjumper Comp

I've had this '88 Stumpjumper Comp for a while. I had it built up as a drop bar commuter for many years. It was (and is) a great foul weather commuter.

I decided to turn it back into a flat bar commuter as I'm building up a 1992 Stumpjumper with drop bars. The '88 has a lot of original parts (front and rear derailleurs, wheels, rear u brake, stem, and headset). The shifters, brake levers, front cantilever, pedals, seat and seatpost, handlebars, crank and BB are replacements.




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Old 09-07-20, 05:24 PM
  #7432  
Padgett
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93 Kona Cinder Cone


Bike me and my girlfriend restored for her. Full Deore LX group, Kenda Krisp tires, and all new contact points. She sewed up the stem bag. Might need a blacked out seatpost and some fresh paint next!
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Old 09-07-20, 05:30 PM
  #7433  
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Man, these are gorgeous!
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Old 09-07-20, 06:28 PM
  #7434  
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New to me Diamond back Apex. PO pic. It's set up to be road friendly. The PO did a good job. I've only overhauled front hub and replaced saddle with a turbo. I think it's an '89. I plan to keep it a 1×7. However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?

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Old 09-08-20, 01:24 PM
  #7435  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj
New to me Diamond back Apex. PO pic. It's set up to be road friendly. The PO did a good job. I've only overhauled front hub and replaced saddle with a turbo. I think it's an '89. I plan to keep it a 1×7. However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?

yup that is a 1989 Apex, in "Iridescent Lilac Smoke" the Apex was originally a 3x7 with Deore II components. the new chainring for single speeds shouldnt be a problem. a popular thing to do right now.

i have one that has been sitting disassembled for years, one of these days i will get to building it back up. i really like that paint scheme on them
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Old 09-08-20, 01:29 PM
  #7436  
natloz
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Bianchi Nyala








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Old 09-09-20, 10:26 AM
  #7437  
Ekaadhityak
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anyone know this panasonic original or fake?

anyone know this panasonic original or fake?






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Old 09-10-20, 07:14 AM
  #7438  
gmvelo
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I picked this '88 Novara Ponderosa up over the weekend. Pictured as purchased, before I've done any cleaning or updating. The combination of the fillet brazing and lug at the seat/top tube juncture reminds me of my Schwinn Cimarron. I figured it was made in Japan, but the sticker on the head tube says "Made in Taiwan." Apparently these were designed by Scot Nichols of Ibis in a collaboration with REI. I'm looking forward to a re-build - at a minimum swapping out tires and likely handlebars. Dirt drops are a possibility. I've already put on a Brooks B-15. These old mountain bikes make such a great starting point, and I figure with an affordable mid-range bike like this, I don't have to worry too much about veering from the original build. Striking how similar the paint scheme is to the Jamis posted above.
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Old 09-10-20, 07:27 AM
  #7439  
2cam16
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Nice find! I have an '87 made in Japan with the Scot Nicol signature decal on the tt. Great running bike. Enjoy the build!
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Old 09-10-20, 07:39 AM
  #7440  
Unca_Sam
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Originally Posted by texaspandj
New to me Diamond back Apex. PO pic. It's set up to be road friendly. The PO did a good job. I've only overhauled front hub and replaced saddle with a turbo. I think it's an '89. I plan to keep it a 1×7. However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?

No one has responded to your question in the thread, so here goes.
However I'd like to replace the original middle chairing with a modern to help keep the chain from falling, any ideas?
My daughter's Trek Precaliber uses two plastic side plates to keep the chain from falling off of the ring. I wouldn't recommend that here, though.
Once you measure your BCD on the spider, look for narrow/wide chainrings in that BCD. The idea is that the alternating gear tooth widths (narrow/wide) will hold the chain on the ring.
Another option is a chain guide, which can get expensive if you want to adapt your frame for ISCG 05 fittings. A potential workaround is mounting a FD, locking out the movement with the limit screws, and running the chain through it. I think the chain guides work better than this method, because the FD is designed to assist shifting, not prevent it.
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Old 09-11-20, 04:09 PM
  #7441  
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1987 Miyata Trail Runner

Here's my 1987 Miyata Trail Runner. I have to warn you, it's the sexiest bike on the road right now, and looking at it will probably make you want to throw your bike in the garbage. Also, when looking at these pictures, you should either be blasting "Do You Believe In Love" by Huey Lewis, or the "Full House" theme song






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Old 09-11-20, 05:32 PM
  #7442  
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İt's in great shape for it's age, but doesn't really turn me on.... Just like Madonna with the eye patch..

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Old 09-12-20, 01:08 PM
  #7443  
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Picked up this Specialized Stumpjumper today for $50 Can. 84 or 85 i think. 17 inch frame,24 inch wheels, all original i think and in beautiful shape.




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Old 09-12-20, 01:24 PM
  #7444  
JacobLee 
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Originally Posted by garryg
Picked up this Specialized Stumpjumper today for $50 Can. 84 or 85 i think. 17 inch frame,24 inch wheels, all original i think and in beautiful shape.




From Marin County, no less.
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Old 09-12-20, 01:45 PM
  #7445  
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Originally Posted by garryg
Picked up this Specialized Stumpjumper today for $50 Can. 84 or 85 i think. 17 inch frame,24 inch wheels, all original i think and in beautiful shape.

Do you believe in love
Do you believe it's true


Beautiful! It does crack me up that the 17" frame and 24" wheels still has, what, 175mm cranks? For the leverage, you know. Because... gears don't exist?
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Old 09-12-20, 03:25 PM
  #7446  
texaspandj
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
No one has responded to your question in the thread, so here goes.

My daughter's Trek Precaliber uses two plastic side plates to keep the chain from falling off of the ring. I wouldn't recommend that here, though.
Once you measure your BCD on the spider, look for narrow/wide chainrings in that BCD. The idea is that the alternating gear tooth widths (narrow/wide) will hold the chain on the ring.
Another option is a chain guide, which can get expensive if you want to adapt your frame for ISCG 05 fittings. A potential workaround is mounting a FD, locking out the movement with the limit screws, and running the chain through it. I think the chain guides work better than this method, because the FD is designed to assist shifting, not prevent it.
Thanks for the response. I thought about using the original front derailleur as I have all the original take off parts. however I really want to go modern chainring but with a similar shiny look of the original.
Im really enjoying the heck out of this bike. It's simply a blast to ride. I've yet to ride my road bike since I acquired it a couple of weeks or so ago.
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Old 09-12-20, 11:25 PM
  #7447  
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Originally Posted by Korina
Do you believe in love
Do you believe it's true


Beautiful! It does crack me up that the 17" frame and 24" wheels still has, what, 175mm cranks? For the leverage, you know. Because... gears don't exist?
My wife had exactly that model. The crank was too long and the wheels were a bit too small and the whole thing was too heavy. The frame was a bit too big for a 5’ tall person as well. Not Specialized’s best effort.
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Old 09-13-20, 02:09 AM
  #7448  
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Originally Posted by garryg
Picked up this Specialized Stumpjumper today for $50 Can. 84 or 85 i think. 17 inch frame,24 inch wheels, all original i think and in beautiful shape.
Heck of a buy, for CAD$50.

Don't see them very often. Saw one a couple years ago in the Sacramento (Calif.) area, for US$180. Another, the year prior for ~$500.


Originally Posted by Korina
It does crack me up that the 17" frame and 24" wheels still has, what, 175mm cranks? For the leverage, you know. Because... gears don't exist?
Needs a 155-160mm crank, on the thing.
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Old 09-13-20, 09:46 AM
  #7449  
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Originally Posted by Clyde1820

Needs a 155-160mm crank, on the thing.
I modified the cranks on my wife’s bike by cutting them down to 155mm and redrilling for the pedals. I didn’t have a reverse threaded tap so I just threaded it for normal thread. I got two sets of Leotard pedals and swapped out the pedal spindles. Luckily, the threads were tight enough that they never backed out. I still have the cranks, although they haven’t been used for 30+ years.

I would never do that for me but I put a lot of carbon parts on her bike now that I would never use. She can’t stress them like I can.
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Old 09-13-20, 10:25 AM
  #7450  
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[QUOTE=cyccommute;21691770. I didn’t have a reverse threaded tap so I just threaded it for normal thread.

I would never do that for me but I....... on her bike .[/QUOTE]
Out of context sounds criminal... Lol... Also.. Couldn't you have threaded reverse...?.. Like.. Normal, but, from the back?...
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