Upgrading crankset from 105
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Upgrading crankset from 105
I have a bike I am doing some fun upgrades on. The 105 is getting replace with mechanical Ultrgra, but I don’t have a crank set picked out. What would be a direct fit for a Shimano fit BB that might be a fun option?
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it depends on your BB size is it 30mm or 24mm , i have been curious about this look bike i saw on hambini's channel that had a massive spindle ,
i personally like sram force or sram red , but you need and adapter for gxp , i can always find a used one for a decent price and they add stiffness where it counts , i only use alloy cranks on my commuters or cross/gravel trainers , but if i can find a carbon crank i would go for that any day over the mushy feeling of an alloy ,
but maybe you can find a dura-ace that would be a direct branch on the upgrade tree ,
i hear the cannondale hollow grams cranks are the shizznit ,
they always seem to be really expensive even without a power meter ,
105 is ok too ,
i really just look to add stiffness that adds responsiveness and efficiency rather than just weight savings maybe try better wheels and tires too
i personally like sram force or sram red , but you need and adapter for gxp , i can always find a used one for a decent price and they add stiffness where it counts , i only use alloy cranks on my commuters or cross/gravel trainers , but if i can find a carbon crank i would go for that any day over the mushy feeling of an alloy ,
but maybe you can find a dura-ace that would be a direct branch on the upgrade tree ,
i hear the cannondale hollow grams cranks are the shizznit ,
they always seem to be really expensive even without a power meter ,
105 is ok too ,
i really just look to add stiffness that adds responsiveness and efficiency rather than just weight savings maybe try better wheels and tires too
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it depends on your BB size is it 30mm or 24mm , i have been curious about this look bike i saw on hambini's channel that had a massive spindle ,
i personally like sram force or sram red , but you need and adapter for gxp , i can always find a used one for a decent price and they add stiffness where it counts , i only use alloy cranks on my commuters or cross/gravel trainers , but if i can find a carbon crank i would go for that any day over the mushy feeling of an alloy ,
but maybe you can find a dura-ace that would be a direct branch on the upgrade tree ,
i hear the cannondale hollow grams cranks are the shizznit ,
they always seem to be really expensive even without a power meter ,
105 is ok too ,
i really just look to add stiffness that adds responsiveness and efficiency rather than just weight savings maybe try better wheels and tires too
i personally like sram force or sram red , but you need and adapter for gxp , i can always find a used one for a decent price and they add stiffness where it counts , i only use alloy cranks on my commuters or cross/gravel trainers , but if i can find a carbon crank i would go for that any day over the mushy feeling of an alloy ,
but maybe you can find a dura-ace that would be a direct branch on the upgrade tree ,
i hear the cannondale hollow grams cranks are the shizznit ,
they always seem to be really expensive even without a power meter ,
105 is ok too ,
i really just look to add stiffness that adds responsiveness and efficiency rather than just weight savings maybe try better wheels and tires too
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Yeah, that noodly aircraft grade ally just doesn't cut it, that's why the pros on Shimano get their mechanics to paint Dura-Ace logos on carbon cranks.
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Quarq or Rotor/P2M power meter.
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Which version of 105 crank do you have? There have been several over the years with correspondingly different bottom brackets. Early 105 cranks had square taper bottom brackets and then later came the Octalink splined bottom brackets followed by the current external design. Whatever new crank you buy you may well need a new bottom bracket anyway
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Which version of 105 crank do you have? There have been several over the years with correspondingly different bottom brackets. Early 105 cranks had square taper bottom brackets and then later came the Octalink splined bottom brackets followed by the current external design. Whatever new crank you buy you may well need a new bottom bracket anyway
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as in the 5800 or the 7000 series... So you want a 'fun' chainset Something to make your pony stand out from the crowd...strip the finish off you current cranks and have then anodized to match your frame's main colour or accent colours...
If you want a solid performer then the Shimano Ultegra R8000...yeah it's a tad boring but it gets the job done...no fuss, no bother.
If you have more money than you know what to do with...the Rotor 2inPower Power Meter With Rotor Chainrings is the one for you...yeah it's black as well, but boy what a price tag
Form over function...give me function every time...
If you want a solid performer then the Shimano Ultegra R8000...yeah it's a tad boring but it gets the job done...no fuss, no bother.
If you have more money than you know what to do with...the Rotor 2inPower Power Meter With Rotor Chainrings is the one for you...yeah it's black as well, but boy what a price tag
Form over function...give me function every time...
#14
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as in the 5800 or the 7000 series... So you want a 'fun' chainset Something to make your pony stand out from the crowd...strip the finish off you current cranks and have then anodized to match your frame's main colour or accent colours...
If you want a solid performer then the Shimano Ultegra R8000...yeah it's a tad boring but it gets the job done...no fuss, no bother.
If you have more money than you know what to do with...the Rotor 2inPower Power Meter With Rotor Chainrings is the one for you...yeah it's black as well, but boy what a price tag
Form over function...give me function every time...
If you want a solid performer then the Shimano Ultegra R8000...yeah it's a tad boring but it gets the job done...no fuss, no bother.
If you have more money than you know what to do with...the Rotor 2inPower Power Meter With Rotor Chainrings is the one for you...yeah it's black as well, but boy what a price tag
Form over function...give me function every time...
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https://www.thm.bike/de/cranksets/cl...m3-road-2.html.
And for a cool $2300, this is much more expensive than both:
SRM PowerMeter SRM Origin Road
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my commute bike runs the FSA goss and the sram alloy and gthere is no question , i also swapped my cross bike crank from alloy to carbon and the it was a world a difference , and when it broke in a cross race it was no biggy only a hundred bucks !
i feel if you want the same perforce in alloy its going to cost way more than carbon , even a brand new sram red is under 300 usually , compared to the higher quality alloy i think a carbon crank is good choice !
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pros run what ever they are sponsored to run , you cant use the pros as an example , plus they are on the highest quality cranks that cost more than most peoples bikes !
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and when it broke in a cross race it was no biggy only a hundred bucks !
i feel if you want the same perforce in alloy its going to cost way more than carbon , even a brand new sram red is under 300 usually , compared to the higher quality alloy i think a carbon crank is good choice !
i feel if you want the same perforce in alloy its going to cost way more than carbon , even a brand new sram red is under 300 usually , compared to the higher quality alloy i think a carbon crank is good choice !
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I'm pretty sure that if you were to ask some pros, you'd hear that Dura-Ace cranks are good enough.