Ugh! Wheels again!
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ugh! Wheels again!
Is there a consensus on mfgr. brand wheelsets? Masi, Felt, Trek, all have their wheels on their 105 level gravel grinders.
I’m a Clyde and I’d rather not have to upgrade wheelsets in the first year. Salsa puts wtb wheels on and they seem sturdy. I could buy a lower priced bike and use the wtb’s in my garage. But I like having a spare in case something goes pear shaped on a ride.
Hammer me
Thank you
I’m a Clyde and I’d rather not have to upgrade wheelsets in the first year. Salsa puts wtb wheels on and they seem sturdy. I could buy a lower priced bike and use the wtb’s in my garage. But I like having a spare in case something goes pear shaped on a ride.
Hammer me
Thank you
#2
Sunshine
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Is the issue younare concerned with breaking spokes, wheels out of true, literally tacoing wheels, or what?
#3
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Not sure what you're asking. I haven't had a problem with my stock Checkpoint SL5 wheel set. Can't see a need to upgrade at this point.
#4
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Just upgraded to a set of Alex Rims XD-Lite's, 36h/32h with velocity hubs for $550 australian. Feel like a nice light strong wheelset.
#5
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Thread Starter
Breaking spokes! The stockers on my Giramondo broke, so I upgraded that wheelset. Had the same issue on my old trek dual sport so I upgraded the rear on that one. Warrantee is usually direct replacement so not really a solution.
#6
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Well, there is one key question. How much of a Clyde are you. If you are 210 vs 270 is not the same answer. There are few wheelsets truly rated fro heavy Clydes and in that case you will want to build something with a Velocity Dyad or Chukkar rim (36h) with maybe a White Industries hub...
#7
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how many spokes are on the wheelsets for each bike? All things equal, more spokes = less issues for us that are heavier than a tumbleweed.
very few stock bikes come with butted spokes, but butted spokes are both lighter and less prone to fatigue due to being inherently more flexible. Just a general comment there, in case you end up buying a wheelset.
assuming you are 250ish, a 32 or 36 spoke real wheel that is midzdepth(26-29mm) with 3x lacing and butted spokes that is handbuilt and properly tensioned should last for years.
This assumes you ride light and use your arms and legs as suspension instead of being static and slamming over RR tracks, potholes, bridge seams, etc.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yep. 250 ish. And I know better than to go less than 32. But having my lbs, who does wheel building look at retensioning the wheels may be a good start.
When ive been off the bike a while I tend to ride heavier. After a few months, much springier.
When ive been off the bike a while I tend to ride heavier. After a few months, much springier.
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try taking the wheelset, whatever wheelset that is on whatever bike you buy, to a wheelbuilder for proper tensioning. I dont mean a random shop where they will get the wheels to spin true, but an actual knowledgable wheelbuilder that will have them spin true while also properly tensioned.
.
.
Seriously, the only trouble-free wheels I have owned have been those that were custom-built.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This is a great suggestion. In the meantime, start saving up for a custom wheelset. A good wheelbuilder will listen to your needs and the problems you have had with previous wheelsets, and will be able to build a set that will be reliable for you. And they needn't be any more expensive than the wheels ridden by lighter riders.
Seriously, the only trouble-free wheels I have owned have been those that were custom-built.
Seriously, the only trouble-free wheels I have owned have been those that were custom-built.
#12
Banned
Is there a consensus on mfgr. brand wheelsets? Masi, Felt, Trek, all have their wheels on their 105 level gravel grinders.
I’m a Clyde and Salsa puts wtb wheels on and they seem sturdy. I could buy a lower priced bike and use the wtb’s in my garage. But I like having a spare in case something goes pear shaped on a ride.
Hammer me
Thank you
I’m a Clyde and Salsa puts wtb wheels on and they seem sturdy. I could buy a lower priced bike and use the wtb’s in my garage. But I like having a spare in case something goes pear shaped on a ride.
Hammer me
Thank you
"you'd rather not have to upgrade wheelsets in the first year."
see how those work and if you don't like them get a heavier duty wheel built next year..
Salsa is a QBP Brand, and QBP also builds wheels in Minnesota,
Complete bikes are imported with wheels built in their supplier facility ..
Perhaps your Bike Shop can offer a trade up wheel deal, at point of sale,
supply a special wheelset ,
and buy the stock wheels ,new, at a price they'd pay ordering them ..
trade up won't be free but you can save you a bit of money..
Bike shops are a Service Business..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-05-19 at 11:25 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Using the wtb’s I already have. I pulled the tire off one so I could compare to the brev m units. The brevs are double wall, exterior is high arch, interior is low arch lip to lip. The wtbs’s are more angular. Flat area at nipples, then angles down to sides, then flat to lip exterior. Interior wall is two flats then a shallow arch in the middle. They look stronger to me.
Spring bike sale netted me a -17 giramondo 27.5 for 750.00. Hard to pass up as I already like the drivetrain. Plus, it has wtb flared drops already on it. I figure a pair of 700x 43 panaracer gravel king tubeless, a pair of spyre c with discs, and I’m ready to get dirty for 1200 all in. Plus I have a pair of plus wheels just because.
Spring bike sale netted me a -17 giramondo 27.5 for 750.00. Hard to pass up as I already like the drivetrain. Plus, it has wtb flared drops already on it. I figure a pair of 700x 43 panaracer gravel king tubeless, a pair of spyre c with discs, and I’m ready to get dirty for 1200 all in. Plus I have a pair of plus wheels just because.
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