non-fixie 

You're welcome. I've been playing around with the retro-mod concept and find that balancing shapes and colors in such a way that the result looks in any way coherent is not an easy task. And since you seem to have an above-average sense for getting it right, I am very grateful for these examples. Please, keep 'em coming!

Andy_K 

Thanks for the suggestions, and nice work on the "corrective magic"! I'll give it a test fit with the wheels from this bike and see how it looks.



By the way, I just bought an unusual Bianchi frame that I'd like to consult you about. I'll send you an e-mail on that one.

Kilroy1988 

Okay, silly question, I'm sure... But as I'm pondering the building up of my own "retro roadie" I have hit a snag. I am not sure how to know if a modern sealed bearing bottom bracket such as the Shimano Tiagra 4700 with English threading will fit my old Mercian frame. Of course the threading is right, but I can't figure out if the width of the bottom brackets are adjustable, or more importantly the length between the spindles on the crank arms. Do I have to have a bottom bracket width that exactly matches the specifications of the modern setup, or is there some kind of adjustability?

Thanks!

curbtender

If you are talking about the shimano outboard bearings, they are a standard size. The spindle is part of the crank.

Kilroy1988 

So assuming my old frame has a proper 68mm wide bottom bracket, then a new English style Shimano bottom bracket should work fine? What about the spindles on the crank arms? Are they different lengths for Italian or English, or is the couple of mm negligible regarding how they fit together?

Thanks!

Andy_K 

Yeah, if you've got the right threading it just works. Shimano makes Italian threaded bottom brackets, but the same crank works with either.

drobotnik

As others have noted, the spindle length will just work. However, if you are having chainline issues (especially single speed or 1x gearing) you can use a mountain bb with spacers to fine tune the alignment.

curbtender

Not sure on that.

noglider 

I guess my 1971 Raleigh Super Course qualifies for this thread, among a few others. I've rebuilt this bike several times. This time, it has new bars and stem, new wheels, seatpost, and brand new 2x8 Claris drivetrain. Tires are Vittoria Voyager Hyper, 700x37. I put the original brakes back on so they could reach the smaller 700c wheels. I'm not going to keep the mustache bars, as there isn't enough room in there for my handlebar bag. I'll also put on a bell, rack, fenders, and dynamo-powered lights.

ski4bob

Those brifters are for drop bars, imho they look horrible on these handlebars. Mountain bike shifters/brake handles would both look and perform way better!

chainwhip

noglider - I have to agree with ski4bob:
the ergos with the brifters & moustache bars has got to be pretty awful.
Even if it's only a short jaunt/Townie.

Why not bar ends?
Or maybe dirt drops with the Claris STIs?



Nitto Dirt Drops


Velo Orange Dirt Drops

thook

beauty is in the eye of the beholder. i think brifters look pretty cool on moustache bars. atleast, my ultegra 6500's do. and, for the throw on those, and my smaller hands, it's works functionally rather well

besides, mtb shifters/brakes won't work on moustache bars. they're road size

moreover, he's not keeping those bars on there, right?

having said all that, i've seen some soma sparrow bars flipped and brifters installed that look pretty sharp

curbtender

He tried them, says he's not keeping them. Guess I shouldn't post pictures of my Mondia with ape hangers and brifters...

noglider 

They work fine. The controls are right under my fingers. I've had this setup on my Raleigh International for about three years. But I'm going to put regular drop bars back on this bike. These bars don't have room for my handlebar bag.

noglider 

@chainwhip, where are the shifters on that Cross Check?

mstateglfr 

looks to be single speed. Instead of a cable stop cap, they kept the rear cable stop to cover the brazed on attachment boss. and they attached a bell on the left side.

chainwhip

You're right, I don't see any.

The pics were just a quick "dirt drop" search...I have trouble picturing the STI shift action with the "drops" horizontal on the moustache bars.

Andy_K 

I fully support the decision not to share such pictures.

HarborBandS

Have you had any interest in this?

I have an old alloy Trek hybrid bike (2002 Trek 7500 FX) that I converted to drop bars, and I am thinking of selling it. But I'm wondering if it will get more interest from buyers if I convert it back to it's original flat bar configuration.

mstateglfr 

Couple people have messaged about it in the last few days, but no lookers yet. I didnt price it to move though. The large size plus price may mean it sits for a bit.

joejack951

While we're sharing pictures of Cannondales built up with no real purpose in mind, here's my 1988 SR500 (too big for me but got it and the groupset for a steal and those fat frame tubes blend so well with a threadless stem):

mstateglfr 

Fantastic! Its the perfect size frame- not too small to look wonky and not too large to look wonky.
And it reminds me I need to investigate your threadless conversion to better understand it as I have a winter project it would work well for.

joejack951

Thanks! Bikes that fit me do look a bit wonky no matter how hard I try with the photography. The proportions of this one just work.

There's a thread about it in this forum, if you didn't already know. Ask away!

RiddleOfSteel

Beautiful bike and perfectly proportioned! Bummer that it doesn't fit you, but I understand.

For everyone playing at home, take note of the stem / (top of) bar / STI lever angles, namely the bars and the STIs. This is perfection.

joejack951

Thanks! I'll find it a good home some day.

If looking to copy this setup, here's the (cheap, but surprisingly nicely shaped) handlebar I used: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/v...handlebar-3384