Anyone give up on big cassettes?
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Anyone give up on big cassettes?
Jerusalem has hills a plenty here so I "upgraded" my gravel bike's 11-32 cassette to an 11-40 (now 12-40), I started riding with a group of riders--I'm 245lbs and the next guy is 200lbs at most--and I just can't keep up on the hills. I do feel I am a strong rider, but this 20% weight penalty isn't helping. At my "peak" 20 years ago I was 180--I'm 6'1"--but at the same time, I definitely have more muscle in my upper body and my legs have always been muscular. I used to punish people on the hills but the tables have turned.
I'm almost thinking I'm doing myself a disservice by using the 12-40 and I need to go back to the 11-32. There isn't enough pain and I'm not feeling the gain. Maybe I'm not pushing myself hard enough when I ride solo. I ordered a HRM to at least see where I am or need to be.
I have a new wheelset coming so I'm thinking of putting a different cassette on each. Anyway, just curious if people who have gone to a bigger cassette have then gone back and then seen an improvement.
Paul
I'm almost thinking I'm doing myself a disservice by using the 12-40 and I need to go back to the 11-32. There isn't enough pain and I'm not feeling the gain. Maybe I'm not pushing myself hard enough when I ride solo. I ordered a HRM to at least see where I am or need to be.
I have a new wheelset coming so I'm thinking of putting a different cassette on each. Anyway, just curious if people who have gone to a bigger cassette have then gone back and then seen an improvement.
Paul
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have you tried a 11-36? I have that on my touring bike.
#3
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Nothing wrong with having a low gear in reserve, you don’t have to use it on every hill. How steep are the hills and what is your climbing cadence? My road bike came with an 11-28, I changed it to a 12-30. My new bike has an 11-34. I’m about 205#, age 60 for reference, and I try to maintain mid 70s in cadence on hills and select the gear accordingly. Even so when the gradient exceeds 10% my rpms will drop. HRM is good too. Shorter club rides of about 50 miles and 2,000 - 3,000 ft I will let my HR get into the 160 range on hills. Longer rides like centuries with 6,000+ ft, I will adjust my effort to limit HR to the upper 140s to pace myself.
If if you are carrying 45# more uphill than your fellow riders, you won’t climb as fast as they do, regardless of gearing.
If if you are carrying 45# more uphill than your fellow riders, you won’t climb as fast as they do, regardless of gearing.
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I feel you....I had a 11-36 bodged on my road bike for quite a while, but after time I found with training I could reduce it. I am down to 11-30 now. I do have a 38/50 on the front.
It can be frustrating still to be very slow on some hills but remember cycling is fun.....have fun it does get better.
I remember one ride on vacation I had the 11-30 and it was really hilly, I wish I had the 36 back so bad, it was so hard and a bit embarrassing. But the group was really good to me and just kept pushing me. Got through it and it hurt A LOT. One of the best trips I have had a on bicycle yet!
It can be frustrating still to be very slow on some hills but remember cycling is fun.....have fun it does get better.
I remember one ride on vacation I had the 11-30 and it was really hilly, I wish I had the 36 back so bad, it was so hard and a bit embarrassing. But the group was really good to me and just kept pushing me. Got through it and it hurt A LOT. One of the best trips I have had a on bicycle yet!
#6
Banned
Never went there..
had used a 13-34 & a 24,40, 50 triple
1 by & big cassettes is all the rage in marketing..
I went with a Rohloff, 1 cog, 14 gears inside..
..
1 by & big cassettes is all the rage in marketing..
I went with a Rohloff, 1 cog, 14 gears inside..
..
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-18-18 at 02:17 PM.
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Unfortunately I don't have a cadence meter for the bike, but it feels like I've got decent cadence. I have noticed, though, that I am now absolute sh*t out of the saddle on a climb. It didn't used to be that way. Getting older (and fatter) sucks.
My bike GPS reports that most of the hills I ride on are between 5-12% grade. Also according to the GPS, pretty much every 10 miles I ride, I climb ~1000ft.
Yes, this is the most practical solution. I just need to have the discipline not to use that 36 or 40 as a crutch. I have done most of these same hills with a 32 before I got the 40 so I know I can do it. However, I also remember ending those rides with some major quad cramps.
My bike GPS reports that most of the hills I ride on are between 5-12% grade. Also according to the GPS, pretty much every 10 miles I ride, I climb ~1000ft.
Yes, this is the most practical solution. I just need to have the discipline not to use that 36 or 40 as a crutch. I have done most of these same hills with a 32 before I got the 40 so I know I can do it. However, I also remember ending those rides with some major quad cramps.
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https://www.diamondback.com/haanjo-trail-40
You can leave it on there, stay away from it until the fire roads gets past 15% or traction is limited.
If your normal rides stay out of the 40t most of time, than its over kill and adds more weight to the cassette. More weight you have to spin every RPM.
The other option is swap the 36chain ring up front for a 34t and still use the smaller cassette.
You can leave it on there, stay away from it until the fire roads gets past 15% or traction is limited.
If your normal rides stay out of the 40t most of time, than its over kill and adds more weight to the cassette. More weight you have to spin every RPM.
The other option is swap the 36chain ring up front for a 34t and still use the smaller cassette.
__________________
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
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Yes, this is the most practical solution. I just need to have the discipline not to use that 36 or 40 as a crutch. I have done most of these same hills with a 32 before I got the 40 so I know I can do it. However, I also remember ending those rides with some major quad cramps.
Sorry- i just dont understand the issue as there really isnt one. Either use the easier cogs and be fine with it, or limit yourself to the 32 and apparently get leg cramps.
Your choice which of those two you want, but I know which I would want...
#10
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At 245-lbs, you're never going to be able to climb with guys who have a 50+ lb weight advantage. It's just pure physics. Don't beat yourself up on it. Get whatever gearing gets you over the hills most comfortably, but if you want to keep up with the climbers on the hills, you're going to have to lose weight, perhaps a lot of it. Fiddling with gears isn't going to help much. There's a reason the sprinters win early stages in the TDF and then are disqualified mid-race because can't finish a mountain stage 45 minutes (!) after the climbers.
- Mark
- Mark
#11
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Marco Pantani rode climbing stages with 54/44 rings, and a 11-23 cassette. He would maintain 20mph on long 8% climbs.
But none of us here is Marco Pantani, nor ever will be. He could put out more watts than anyone here, plus was 100 pounds lighter. Climbing is all about watts/pound.
You need gearing that will allow a 80-90rpm cadence on the sustained climbs, consistent with your heart rate targets. If this is a pie-plate cogset, so be it.
But none of us here is Marco Pantani, nor ever will be. He could put out more watts than anyone here, plus was 100 pounds lighter. Climbing is all about watts/pound.
You need gearing that will allow a 80-90rpm cadence on the sustained climbs, consistent with your heart rate targets. If this is a pie-plate cogset, so be it.
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I have to admit. I like a smaller range, and I live in a relatively hilly area and am relatively heavy. I can't spin all the way up an HC climb with an 11-30, but I can do a good job of most of it.
I'm just NOT disciplined enough to move use the big cogs.
I'm just NOT disciplined enough to move use the big cogs.
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