cobalt123

Hi all,

I just ordered gravel bike yesterday. (tommaso sterrata). Aluminum frame, carbon fork.

I'm currently 330 lbs (and dropping - which is why I ordered a bike to help with that). I'm a bit concerned about the wheels on the bike. They are 28 spoke wheels instead of what sounds like the recommended 32 spoke wheels. They are described as "The TC30D wheels feature 28 bladed steel spokes with brass nipples. Laced to 6061 Aluminum anodized rims to offer you the best bang for your buck. " (I 'd post a link but I can't for another 7 or so posts)

So, my question is: Is this going to be dangerous? I don't mind so much a broken spoke. But I don't want to crash.

My intent is to start on a trainer for a few months while it is winter so I'm not going to crash any time soon (I live in Central MA and snow is about to start any minute...). Hoping by the time I get to spring I'll be under 300 but I'm not sure where the cross over is for different spoke configurations.

Also, didn't occur to me there might be an issue with the trainer too... any thoughts? (Kinetic Road Machine Smart Bike Trainer on amazon)

Thanks,
Matt

TrojanHorse

I doubt you'll crash. Breaking one spoke will probably give you brake rub issues though. Generally speaking, factory wheels are the weak link for larger riders, so you can either wait till you break the wheel or be proactive and go order up some aftermarket wheels that will hold you off the ground. I'd probably go with 36 spokes at your weight, actually. Especially if you're going to ride on less than perfect paved roads.

You should probably get a trainer tire too - they're sturdy, nasty things that won't fall apart as quickly on a trainer.

79pmooney

I"d say your timing is perfect. The wheels you have will be just fine for trainer wheels and you have all winter to find a good wheel builder to make you some sweet sturdy wheels. (You're in central MA. Harris Cyclery isn't all that far away and they could build you some nice ones. So could Belmont Wheelworks. So could a lot of others.)

The current wheels could stay on as trainer wheels or you might just run into someone who could use them and happens to have some wheels heavier and sturdier than he needs.

Ben

GuessWhoCycling

I'd say save up to have a rear wheel built. Try getting by with a rear wheel custom build for durability as it may cost you half the price of the bike you ordered ($200-$300). The front does not take as much abuse, hopefully so it may last longer.

A set of wheels, both wheels may cost you the price of the bike.

cobalt123

thanks for the tips everyone!
Seems like a reasonable plan to use what I have for now until spring comes.

Thanks!

JohnJ80

The durability of the wheels you get with the bike are going to depend a whole lot on the quality of the components as well as the quality of the build. IMO, there is considerable variance - so the answer on whether the wheels hold up or not is "it depends". One would think it should be ok on the trainer but again - don't see where you have anything to lose and any serious failure is not likely to be catastrophic as it would be on the road. You don't have a lot to lose by giving it a try. If you did have a problem, it's going to be with the rear wheel only, so you could ease into a full wheel set designed to meet your road application too.

That said, I would strongly encourage you to invest in a good set of wheels and don't cut corners. Just as others have said, it is going to cost you probably what your bike cost you and then some (especially if you do ride on gravel). My choice for that wheel build would be HED Belgium C2's run tubeless laced to DTSwiss DT240 hubs with Saphim X-ray spokes. That's probably about a $900 wheel set (I typically use Wheelbuilder.com) but it's going to be bulletproof and work well. I've ridden that one 30 mile rock garden paths with 30c tires tubeless with no problems. I'm a clyde (barely) but I did it with a loaded touring bike (we tour fast and light) but then I did it with a 28/32 laced set so it's in the ballpark for your if you get less than 300lbs and you do a 32/32 laced set. That was a ride that was way out of the realm of gravel bike and should have been done on a mountain bike instead. Despite that, the whole thing held up and worked surprisingly well.

I know that probably seems expensive to you, but it would be worth it both in terms of riding experience and reliability for you.

J.

brawlo

There shouldn't be any issues with either the wheels nor the trainer.

My first road bike when I started riding had 28/28 wheels to 30mm rims. From everything I had read I was ready to kiss the pavement at any moment. Those wheels lasted 3 years under my 140kg backside as I made my way to 130kg when I replaced them with some wider Velocity A23 rim wheels. I was not kind to those wheels and they kept coming back for more. They then proceeded to live out the next few years on my trainer bike until I sold them with my last road bike, still going strong. A quality built wheel will out do spoke count every time. For peace of mind I would maybe have a GOOD wheel person check them over and make sure spoke tension is good and suited to you.

As for the trainer, I had a KK for many years for my track sprint training. A couple of years ago I traded up to a Kickr but the KK lives on with my daughter's bike. I have beaten that trainer HARD and never ever had an issue with it. I ran grip tape on the roller for hard accelerations and later in its life under me, I had the roller knurled for additional grip. I would highly recommend the KK.

fietsbob

If you stay on top ot tensioning and truing,, the wheel acts a whole , rather than individual spokes..

Buying from a bike shop they should include after sale service..

cobalt123

thanks! nice to know I chose well on the trainer.

Thanks for that insight

zjrog

Good luck with your weight loss goal on the bike! I agree with looking for a stronger set of wheels for outside. I diasagree leaving the front at 28 spokes. As you brake, lots of weight transfers to that front wheel, and you might be turning

My past experience was never so heavy, but I broke spokes like crazy on my MTB back in the mid 90s. I only weighed 230 then, but beat the snot out of wheels. I finally built my own wheel, with some help at the trueing stand. I used an older high flange hub, 36 spoke, 4 cross pattern, and straight 16 gauge spokes (a tip I read about Eddy Merckx wheel builder). We trued, and tensioned the wheel. Then loosened everything and re-trued and re-tensioned the wheel. I never broke a spoke on that wheel. Now that I am much heavier, I'm also not as intense and just getting back on the bike after a few years off. (Back injury from a bike crash and I have deep fears on hills) I have the bike I crashed on sitting on the trainer. I couldn't get on it the past 2 years, at my weight I always felt about ready to to topple over! See my remark about fears...

I was 378 pounds last May, I had braiatric surgery Oct 22, lost a total of 83 pounds since may, and 61 since surgery. I am 295, and climbed on the bike on the trainer the other day, realizing it needs some servicing, as it won't shift, 1998 Cannondale R200. When I bought it, I specified 36 spoke wheels. But I did not feel like I was going to tip over anymore. So winter might be fun for me. I have another road bike, my first real bike, that I refurbished a couple years ago, but have yet to truly ride it. I relented and put 32 spoke wheels on it. I also have a 29er MTB I was given, it has 32 spoked wheels, I have not ridden it offroad, May not, see again fears... But it is fast on flat smooth surfaces...

Edit, I was incorrect on the spoke count of the 29er. It is a 28 spoke wheel set. I remember wondering how long it would be before I broke spokes, but I was not riding it often nor hard enough. I refreshed my original real bicycle a couple years ago with a 32 spoke wheelset. I was trying to lose weight at the time and telling myself the lower spoke count would force to lose and keep it off. Yeah. I failed miserably...

cobalt123