How much straightening can a frame stand?
#1
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How much straightening can a frame stand?
...if a frame could stand straight. Or rather, if it is bent and needs straightening.
I received a frame, mid-80's Centurion Elite GT, in the mail a few days ago. I just measured the rear DO spacing to be 109mm. The right side chainstay appear visually to be bent inward. It may have happened in shipping. The frame wasn't expensive, shipping was more than half the cost of the frame itself. I contacted the seller, but shipping it back to him seems silly. The question is, can it be saved? The bend appears to be centered around where the stay was indented inward to make room for the chainrings. If the metal doesn't seem cracked there would it tolerate being bent back into place?
I received a frame, mid-80's Centurion Elite GT, in the mail a few days ago. I just measured the rear DO spacing to be 109mm. The right side chainstay appear visually to be bent inward. It may have happened in shipping. The frame wasn't expensive, shipping was more than half the cost of the frame itself. I contacted the seller, but shipping it back to him seems silly. The question is, can it be saved? The bend appears to be centered around where the stay was indented inward to make room for the chainrings. If the metal doesn't seem cracked there would it tolerate being bent back into place?
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...if a frame could stand straight. Or rather, if it is bent and needs straightening.
I received a frame, mid-80's Centurion Elite GT, in the mail a few days ago. I just measured the rear DO spacing to be 109mm. The right side chainstay appear visually to be bent inward. It may have happened in shipping. The frame wasn't expensive, shipping was more than half the cost of the frame itself. I contacted the seller, but shipping it back to him seems silly. The question is, can it be saved? The bend appears to be centered around where the stay was indented inward to make room for the chainrings. If the metal doesn't seem cracked there would it tolerate being bent back into place?
I received a frame, mid-80's Centurion Elite GT, in the mail a few days ago. I just measured the rear DO spacing to be 109mm. The right side chainstay appear visually to be bent inward. It may have happened in shipping. The frame wasn't expensive, shipping was more than half the cost of the frame itself. I contacted the seller, but shipping it back to him seems silly. The question is, can it be saved? The bend appears to be centered around where the stay was indented inward to make room for the chainrings. If the metal doesn't seem cracked there would it tolerate being bent back into place?
All in all, gaspipe and other similar hi-ten steels are the most forgiving, butted chromoly takes more oomph to reset it (but it generally wants to go back to the way it was), and the newer hi zoot, larger diameter steels tubings are the most troublesome to straighten. Stuff like Reynolds 753 will bend back, but there's some question about whether it's a good idea. Guessing thaqt's some sort of Tange frame, so worth an attempt.
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^^^
This.
This.
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I have one of these for that purpose. You're welcome to borrow it, Jim.
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Repeatedly bending the same work hardened area will result in metal fatigue.
So, to answer OP's question: it can handle some bending, but after that, it will break.
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What??? Only 2 wheels?
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I have one of these for that purpose. You're welcome to borrow it, Jim.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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#8
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Well, I managed to straighten the frame this evening. Not too hard, actually. I lay the frame on its side, supported the HT, stuck a long stick (actually my broom-handle hiking stick) inside the rear triangle with one end resting on a pad against the ST, supported the back end of the stick on something high off the ground (my wheel truing stand), then pressed down on the ST so as to lift the DO w.r.t. the frame.. The rear triangle was springy of course so the hardest part was guessing what it would be like when I let up on the pressure. When it measured out to be a twinge under 126mm I stopped. The stays on that side now look straighter. I haven't run a string from HT to DOs yet to measure the spacing but various visual clues look very good.
I was surprised at how easily it bent back into place though I'm sure normal riding doesn't place that much lateral force on just a single pair of stays.
I was surprised at how easily it bent back into place though I'm sure normal riding doesn't place that much lateral force on just a single pair of stays.
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Wait. Does any steel really want to go back to the way it was? I mean, disregarding the idea that the steel had desires or cares about anything, but does it indeed have any memory? My understanding is that working steel hardens it. When you bend (straighten, adjust, whatever) a frame, all the bending happens within a very small area on the frame, and the rest of the steel remains unchanged. The area that actually bends will get harder ("work hardened") and therefore harder than the surrounding area. So when you straighten it, the straightening will actually occur in the area adjacent to the area that originally bent.
Repeatedly bending the same work hardened area will result in metal fatigue.
.
Repeatedly bending the same work hardened area will result in metal fatigue.
.
,,,the defense rests.
.
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If a frame has 9 lives, I'd venture to guess that this bend used up one of them.
Pics or it didn't happen? I posted this last year, a picture of a frame I received from @Stevensb:
15 minutes in the Atelier using the same tool @nlerner posted earlier about, and viola:
That, folks, is what they mean by "steel is real".
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Last edited by gugie; 12-16-18 at 01:07 AM.
#11
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Thanks for the pic. Obviously yours happened. I didn't take any pics so obviously mine didn't. But it also didn't look as bad as that.
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__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#13
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Things I have learned over the years.
If it is creased or cracked, it's toast.
Any plastic deformation will work harden the area.
You can bend it back to its original shape but it is not the same as it was.
Work hardening causes the area to be stiffer (also known as harder) but also to be stronger.
Fatigue life is used up when cold working the material. It may still have adequate life remaining but some of its capability is gone.
If it is creased or cracked, it's toast.
Any plastic deformation will work harden the area.
You can bend it back to its original shape but it is not the same as it was.
Work hardening causes the area to be stiffer (also known as harder) but also to be stronger.
Fatigue life is used up when cold working the material. It may still have adequate life remaining but some of its capability is gone.
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Things I have learned over the years.
If it is creased or cracked, it's toast.
Any plastic deformation will work harden the area.
You can bend it back to its original shape but it is not the same as it was.
Work hardening causes the area to be stiffer (also known as harder) but also to be stronger.
Fatigue life is used up when cold working the material. It may still have adequate life remaining but some of its capability is gone.
If it is creased or cracked, it's toast.
Any plastic deformation will work harden the area.
You can bend it back to its original shape but it is not the same as it was.
Work hardening causes the area to be stiffer (also known as harder) but also to be stronger.
Fatigue life is used up when cold working the material. It may still have adequate life remaining but some of its capability is gone.
That's a pretty good layman's explanation.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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You can use Sheldon Brown's spreading technique to move the triangle back into location and center it.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
#16
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Crushed rear triangle
@gugie and @Bad Lag
I received a NOS Motobecane frame from an eBay seller in France. I went into great detail as to how to block the rear dropouts and fork. I even sent him pictures.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/282672...57625469349057
When I received the frame the box looked like gorillas had a party with it. The DS rear dropout was protruding from the really cheap cardboard.
When I took it out of the box, both sides of the rear triangle were crushed together from 126mm down to 95mm.
I took it to a frame builder friend of mine's shop to get his opinion. He put it on his layout table and was able to easily realign the rear triangle. The main triangle and fork blades are Reynolds 531 but the rear triangle is standard Motobecane gas pipe tubing so it was easy to bend back to shape.
I hit the seller up for a substantial refund!
How simple would it have been to block the dropouts and use a more substantial box???
Back in the early 70's when bike manufacturers were pushing bikes out the door as quickly as they could box them up, we ran into quite a few new bikes that we had to spread the fork blades and or rear triangles to get the wheels in. Some came from the factory that way while others were damaged in shipping do to poor quality packing.
The gas pipe tubing was soft and bent easily the first few tries but then it would work harden and get stiffer.
My best bicycle tool investment was a set of Campy dropout alignment tools. I bought my set in 1975 and use them on every bike that I work on.
verktyg
I received a NOS Motobecane frame from an eBay seller in France. I went into great detail as to how to block the rear dropouts and fork. I even sent him pictures.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/282672...57625469349057
When I received the frame the box looked like gorillas had a party with it. The DS rear dropout was protruding from the really cheap cardboard.
When I took it out of the box, both sides of the rear triangle were crushed together from 126mm down to 95mm.
I took it to a frame builder friend of mine's shop to get his opinion. He put it on his layout table and was able to easily realign the rear triangle. The main triangle and fork blades are Reynolds 531 but the rear triangle is standard Motobecane gas pipe tubing so it was easy to bend back to shape.
I hit the seller up for a substantial refund!
How simple would it have been to block the dropouts and use a more substantial box???
Back in the early 70's when bike manufacturers were pushing bikes out the door as quickly as they could box them up, we ran into quite a few new bikes that we had to spread the fork blades and or rear triangles to get the wheels in. Some came from the factory that way while others were damaged in shipping do to poor quality packing.
The gas pipe tubing was soft and bent easily the first few tries but then it would work harden and get stiffer.
My best bicycle tool investment was a set of Campy dropout alignment tools. I bought my set in 1975 and use them on every bike that I work on.
verktyg
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Last edited by verktyg; 12-17-18 at 12:38 AM.
#17
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1. The quality of cardboard in France is merde. I'm addicted to eBay France, and it seems that half of what I pay for shipping is to accept some Frenchman's garbage used as packing material
2. I block dropouts with a 2x4. I've cut several at 130mm, a few at 126mm, and a coupleof 120mm with my chopsaw lickety split. Deck screws and fender washers hold them in place. I use two on the drive side, one through the dropout, one through the deraileur hanger. I guess the wood equivalent of a 2x4 costs several Euros, whereas they're scrapwood here.
3. eBay people aren't always the sharpest knife in the kitchen. When you do find a good one, however, try to do as much business as you can with them. Develop a relationship. I've got one guy that I can sometimes talk into taking delivery of a "no US shipments" and forward to me for a fee, and they know how to pack properly and get a good Colissimo shipping rate. My wife calls the guy Jean Valjean.
4. Steel is real! The fact that you could save the frame shows that a bent rear triangle just ain't that big a deal.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#18
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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All this has made me curious about something. What DO spacing have been used in the past, besides the garden-variety 120, 126, and more recent 130, 135?
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I think a more important question is, how much wood can a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?