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Cannondale Topstone

Old 08-28-18, 07:53 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Metieval

and the Topstone is BSA rather than BB30
Are you sure about that?? That would be amazing. And surprising.

Edit: holy cow you're right, I can't believe it. But a HUGE LOL to Cannondale putting BSA threaded bb under their Innovation and Technology header lololol. duh.

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  • SmartForm C2 Alloy Construction
  • Removable Front Derailleur Mount
  • Integrated Rack/Fender Mounts
  • Disc Specific Design
  • BSA Threaded BB
  • 27.2 Dropper Post Compatible
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Old 08-28-18, 08:30 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by shoota
But a HUGE LOL to Cannondale putting BSA threaded bb under their Innovation and Technology header lololol. duh.
That is pretty ironic.

Nice catch.


-Tim-
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Old 08-28-18, 08:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by gus6464
I don't know if it's because I'm running 47mm Byways @ 35psi or what but my Slate is way more plush on the road than my carbon bikes. It soaks up vibrations like a sponge. Didn't think that the lefty would be that useful with such low travel but I can definitely feel a difference when riding the bike with the rigid lefty vs the oliver.
I've had two MTB's with a HeadShok and those things have no flex at all, and the lockout is right on top of the stem. And they don't look as corny. They would have been perfect for a gravel bike.
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Old 08-28-18, 08:54 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
I've had two MTB's with a HeadShok and those things have no flex at all, and the lockout is right on top of the stem. And they don't look as corny. They would have been perfect for a gravel bike.
Perfect in function, maintenance & rebuilds etc are uhhh almost not worth it. such a shame though they are awesome!

Then again between a CAAD frame and 700x38 / 42 I am curious of comfort. my synapse on 25s was plush.... I just didn't do gravel on it because I wanted to keep it pristine. (see picture 10,000 + miles This is as I sold it after putting stock wheels and Chainrings back on it. Well I did keep that saddle too. and gave themn the stock saddle, hah)


synapse has a 73mm BB drop on 25/28 so a 75 isn't too far off for 38/42

however 75 is probably is not a good place for a 650x47 swap. At least not for me.

If this Topstone rides like my 2013 Alloy synapse did..... It will ride like a dream on 38 Compass Barlow Pass tires. with room for fenders too.

I do really like the BSA because a swap into Shimano for Absolute sub compact ovals will be very easy.
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Old 08-28-18, 09:33 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by shoota
Are you sure about that?? That would be amazing. And surprising.

Edit: holy cow you're right, I can't believe it. But a HUGE LOL to Cannondale putting BSA threaded bb under their Innovation and Technology header lololol. duh.

INNOVATION AND TECHNOLOGY
  • BSA Threaded BB

Ha, that is funny. Old is new apparently, so lets advertise it as innovative and tech.
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Old 08-28-18, 09:41 AM
  #31  
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Has anyone here actually had a problem with BB30 on a cannondale? I've had 2 CAADXs and a SuperX all BB30 and they've all been fine, I replace the bearings and use loctite and they are flawless until the bearings themselves get crunch due to water ingress but that happens to just about any cyclocross bike
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Old 08-28-18, 10:09 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Has anyone here actually had a problem with BB30 on a cannondale? I've had 2 CAADXs and a SuperX all BB30 and they've all been fine, I replace the bearings and use loctite and they are flawless until the bearings themselves get crunch due to water ingress but that happens to just about any cyclocross bike
Had my Supersix EVO for 5 years and never encountered a creaky BB. Funny enough my main ride before that was a Fuji with Shimano BSA and it had some slight creaking after about 6 years of ownership.

So is the topstone 650x47 compatible? If you can fit 700x42 it should be no?

Last edited by gus6464; 08-28-18 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 08-28-18, 10:28 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Has anyone here actually had a problem with BB30 on a cannondale? I've had 2 CAADXs and a SuperX all BB30 and they've all been fine, I replace the bearings and use loctite and they are flawless until the bearings themselves get crunch due to water ingress but that happens to just about any cyclocross bike
when my synapse was new, I took crank out 10mm Allen, greased the shaft and races. put it back together. made a small adjustment on limits. and put 10,000 + miles on it problem free, in rain and stuff.

So no not really. and BB30 was the easiest BB i've ever worked on. I just happen to not like FSA...
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Old 08-28-18, 10:46 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Has anyone here actually had a problem with BB30 on a cannondale? I've had 2 CAADXs and a SuperX all BB30 and they've all been fine, I replace the bearings and use loctite and they are flawless until the bearings themselves get crunch due to water ingress but that happens to just about any cyclocross bike
My wife's road bike is a Synapse Sora from '15 or so. The crank and BB have been perfect so far. No maintenance no issues.

A couple years ago I worked probably 6 times thru the summer on a Synapse Disc Tiagra that was a raging POS. The bottom bracket/crankset clicked no matter what was done. It was a teen's bike who I train with thru the spring and summer and the bike shop couldnt get it to stop, neither could I. It was annoying to even ride with him, much less be the rider of that bike. I ended up giving a Shimano crankset to him and he had to buy a Wheels Mfg BB adapter. Noise was gone after that.

A metal bottom bracket shell should have threads. Simple as that.
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Old 08-28-18, 11:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
My wife's road bike is a Synapse Sora from '15 or so. The crank and BB have been perfect so far. No maintenance no issues.

A couple years ago I worked probably 6 times thru the summer on a Synapse Disc Tiagra that was a raging POS. The bottom bracket/crankset clicked no matter what was done. It was a teen's bike who I train with thru the spring and summer and the bike shop couldnt get it to stop, neither could I. It was annoying to even ride with him, much less be the rider of that bike. I ended up giving a Shimano crankset to him and he had to buy a Wheels Mfg BB adapter. Noise was gone after that.

A metal bottom bracket shell should have threads. Simple as that.
Did you guys use the FSA tool to check if the the BB shell was still in specs? The only time my LBS says they've had issues that can't be fixed are when riders continue riding with the creak and elongated and ovalize the shell. Did you guys use 609 or 641 which fills larger gaps?
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Old 08-28-18, 11:12 AM
  #36  
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My biggest issue was shaved aluminum curls inside the BB shell. When I had it apart I broke those off, as they curled around and rubbed the race or spindle. but It also wasn't as tight as it should have been from factory either. hence why I had to adjust my limits after putting it back together.
Regardless other than Hollowgram spiders, My favorite BB is the Shimano BBR60. So Cannondale going to BSA is fine with me.
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Old 08-28-18, 11:16 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Did you guys use the FSA tool to check if the the BB shell was still in specs? The only time my LBS says they've had issues that can't be fixed are when riders continue riding with the creak and elongated and ovalize the shell. Did you guys use 609 or 641 which fills larger gaps?
I didnt check to see if the shell had elongated, no. Never even knew that possible...but all my bikes are bsa threaded shells and dont creak.

the shop it was taken to is a Cannondale dealer so I would assume they know how to service the main brand they sell.
The shimano crank and wheels mfg adapter fit fine so I would guess there was no elongation.

regardless of what was done to fix it the first handful of times, the fact that such lengths need to be taken to fix a problem that doesnt need to exist is excessive and foe me it confirms why I like threaded shells.
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Old 08-28-18, 11:41 AM
  #38  
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For me the issue with pressfit vs threaded is failure mode but ease of service.

Anyone can screw in a bottom bracket but not everyone has a press or cares to make one. Fewer feel confident pressing or extracting a pressfit bearing while many are quite comfortable screwing things into and out of threaded holes.

I'm comfortable with either but given the choice I'll choose threaded every day. It is just easier. This is why I love Praxis and Torqtite so much.


-Tim-
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Old 08-28-18, 11:49 AM
  #39  
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I like being able to buy $2 off the shelf bearings and with the right tools its a 5 min job
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Old 08-28-18, 11:52 AM
  #40  
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I think the pressfit BB fad is dying, many more bikes are coming with a Praxis conversion BB or regular threaded shell. The thing I hate the most is having to hammer out bearings, especially when they're locktite'd in. Makes me cringe to do that.
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Old 08-28-18, 01:16 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
Has anyone here actually had a problem with BB30 on a cannondale? I've had 2 CAADXs and a SuperX all BB30 and they've all been fine, I replace the bearings and use loctite and they are flawless until the bearings themselves get crunch due to water ingress but that happens to just about any cyclocross bike
My superX is creaky as all get out and threaded BBs don't get water in them, even on CX bikes.

edit: Nor do they require loctite. Screw out, screw in, done.
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Old 08-28-18, 01:28 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by shoota
My superX is creaky as all get out and threaded BBs don't get water in them, even on CX bikes.

edit: Nor do they require loctite. Screw out, screw in, done.
threaded bottom brackets get water in them all the time, cyclocross has been around for a lot longer than pressfit bottom brackets and mechanics have been regularly replacing them. Shimanos seal consists of a plastic insert over the bearing, which is loctited into the cup BTW
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Old 08-28-18, 01:34 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
For me the issue with pressfit vs threaded is failure mode but ease of service.

I'm comfortable with either but given the choice I'll choose threaded every day. It is just easier. This is why I love Praxis and Torqtite so much.

-Tim-
This is especially true with a gravel bike that rides "untamed" gravel with creek / river crossings. My first Dirty Kanza, the river crossings cratered my bottom bracket. Two weeks after the race, my BB sounded as if it were filled with gravel. It had corroded and needed replacement. For that reason, I think a threaded BB is a big plus on a gravel bike. No muss, no fuss, BB replacement in less than 5 minutes -- no hammering or using a press on my valuable frameset -- and no worries.

They're coming back because they're better. There's nothing wrong with that.

Last edited by FlashBazbo; 08-28-18 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 08-28-18, 01:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
threaded bottom brackets get water in them all the time, cyclocross has been around for a lot longer than pressfit bottom brackets and mechanics have been regularly replacing them. Shimanos seal consists of a plastic insert over the bearing, which is loctited into the cup BTW
You're picking nits and splitting hairs.
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Old 08-28-18, 02:00 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by shoota
You're picking nits and splitting hairs.
in what way? The same issue for cyclocross exists for both threaded and pressfit bearings due to the fact that a BB bearing cannot be truely sealed from water. The correct method to install a pressfit bearing is with loctite retaining compound or a similar product, it is specifically made for that purpose, also why shimano uses it on their cups or some other OEM retaining compound. If you ever get bored you can press one out of the cup and you'll see the config is not really all that different than what is pressed into your shell. I have multiple bikes with pressfit and threaded BBs and I guess i simply don't have a preference for one or the other, I look at all the other specs on the bike when deciding
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Old 08-28-18, 02:07 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by redlude97
threaded bottom brackets get water in them all the time, cyclocross has been around for a lot longer than pressfit bottom brackets and mechanics have been regularly replacing them. Shimanos seal consists of a plastic insert over the bearing, which is loctited into the cup BTW
I've never seen a BB get submerged in cyclocross. In gravel racing, it has happened multiple times in every race I've entered. The two environments are not the same. And neither BB design keeps the water out when the BB is under water.
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Old 08-28-18, 02:10 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by FlashBazbo
I've never seen a BB get submerged in cyclocross. In gravel racing, it has happened multiple times in every race I've entered. The two environments are not the same. And neither BB design keeps the water out when the BB is under water.
usually the water comes from powerwashing in cyclocross, you do what you gotta do
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Old 08-28-18, 03:01 PM
  #48  
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My SuperX needed new bearings since it's been neglected ever since the end of last race season, I was able to do a full swap in the time since my last post so under an hour including finding my stupid hollowgram crank puller tools


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Old 08-28-18, 03:12 PM
  #49  
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The bottom bracket on the Topstone is only one feature and focusing on it misses the forest but for the trees. Bottom brackets are not serviced often anyway.


-Tim-
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Old 08-28-18, 03:14 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
The bottom bracket on the Topstone is only one feature and focusing on it misses the forest but for the trees. Bottom brackets are not serviced often anyway.


-Tim-
Totally agreed, it seems to be a sticking point for a lot of people that eliminates quite a few bikes that may be perfect in every other way for their needs
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