Best 80s cantilever brake?
#26
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Edit: Opps, Chris_in_Miami beat me to it.
Edit #2: Here's a little more info on the tires
https://www.mtbr.com/mfr/sweetskinz/mcl_12935crx.aspx
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Last edited by calstar; 09-24-12 at 09:23 AM.
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The 983 was a slight improvement over the 982. They made it easier to grip the height adjuster by giving it a knurled flange and they added material to stiffen the arms. It looks like they included both improvements in the new ones.
The adjuster at the straddle cable end could be used to adjust for brake shoe wear, with a very slight change in mechanical advantage.
The adjuster at the straddle cable end could be used to adjust for brake shoe wear, with a very slight change in mechanical advantage.
#28
Banned
Have still been using the same Mafac cantilevers I got in the mid 70's.
have a couple Scott SE compact type , on my camper tour bike ..
I found a braze on boss that had a ring flange all the way around
where the spring anchor in other brakes might go, but I instead have star washers
that grip the core helix' back face.. the return spring on SE is a coil in each brake.
have a couple Scott SE compact type , on my camper tour bike ..
I found a braze on boss that had a ring flange all the way around
where the spring anchor in other brakes might go, but I instead have star washers
that grip the core helix' back face.. the return spring on SE is a coil in each brake.
#29
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C&Vers, I'm cross-posting in the MTB subforum concerning this issue:
I offered a pile of 9 assorted Scott Pedersen SE cantis (various arms/colors and some just spare parts donors), see above thread, and have one guy who's interested in buying.
Problem is we can't tell which go on Front and which on Rear (they are position-specific, they won't work correctly if put on the wrong end), so I'm not sure if I'd be selling him a complete set (F&R) if he buys this whole pile, or what...anybody know how you ID them other than just trial-and-error?
(some pics here) https://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...anti%20brakes/
I offered a pile of 9 assorted Scott Pedersen SE cantis (various arms/colors and some just spare parts donors), see above thread, and have one guy who's interested in buying.
Problem is we can't tell which go on Front and which on Rear (they are position-specific, they won't work correctly if put on the wrong end), so I'm not sure if I'd be selling him a complete set (F&R) if he buys this whole pile, or what...anybody know how you ID them other than just trial-and-error?
(some pics here) https://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...anti%20brakes/
#30
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They're all good. Really.
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#33
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C&Vers, I'm cross-posting in the MTB subforum concerning this issue:
I offered a pile of 9 assorted Scott Pedersen SE cantis (various arms/colors and some just spare parts donors), see above thread, and have one guy who's interested in buying.
Problem is we can't tell which go on Front and which on Rear (they are position-specific, they won't work correctly if put on the wrong end), so I'm not sure if I'd be selling him a complete set (F&R) if he buys this whole pile, or what...anybody know how you ID them other than just trial-and-error?
(some pics here) https://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...anti%20brakes/
I offered a pile of 9 assorted Scott Pedersen SE cantis (various arms/colors and some just spare parts donors), see above thread, and have one guy who's interested in buying.
Problem is we can't tell which go on Front and which on Rear (they are position-specific, they won't work correctly if put on the wrong end), so I'm not sure if I'd be selling him a complete set (F&R) if he buys this whole pile, or what...anybody know how you ID them other than just trial-and-error?
(some pics here) https://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...anti%20brakes/
So if your looking for a front brake arm it will go backwards on the cam towards the rider and against the direction of the spinning wheel. In theory the brake is self tightening against the rim depending on how much pressure is applied to the brake lever.
If the the pivot cam is working properly and not jammed you should be able to see which way they work in your hand or slide it on a canti boss and move it in and out towards the rim to see what way the cam works.
#34
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I have some late 80's higher up in the exage line ones, love'em.
#35
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these are basic but i swear they feel the best..
https://www.velobase.com/ViewComponen...117&AbsPos=225
https://www.velobase.com/ViewComponen...117&AbsPos=225
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#36
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Most are. The ones that rate an epic fail though? The Shimano ones that used PLASTIC collars to hold the spring tension. THe plastic cracks, and the brake pad rides against the rim just enough to annoy the crap out of you.,,,,BD
The tires are Sweetskinz....
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Last edited by Bikedued; 09-30-12 at 07:58 PM.
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I have Dia-Compe 983s on my Schwinn Voyageur, but they don't have that eccentric pivot-mounting system. Did that come on the 982s or the 983 also? Can I just buy those pivots and slap them on?
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OK, not all are good, but most are, as bikedued says. I agree that those plastic sleeves were a stoopid mistake.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#40
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Only a very few 983 brakes have the eccentric bushing, but it's the same bushing system as the 982 NGC. No regular retail source I'm aware of, just randomly eBay and sometimes the crucial bushings turn up in piles of cast-off parts.
#41
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I like the DC 983's, and the Pedersen brakes are nice, but I still prefer the mid-80's Shimano Deore, xt, and AT50's for performance/no fuss/low maintenance/easy set-up. Basic canti's, no plastic, work well.
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thanks for the guidance re: the SE brakes, jbchybridrider.
I'll have to try them out on a spare canti boss and see if I can tell what way they "tighten".
I'll have to try them out on a spare canti boss and see if I can tell what way they "tighten".
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I read somewhere that Suntour didn't make a Self-Energizing front brake because of the danger of lockup. Scott did, but Suntour didn't. My set has a standard canti for the front.
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I have learned through trial and error how to tell visually if the original Scott Pedersen SE brakes are for front or rear use:
If the shape facing you where you insert the mounting bolt (to screw the arm to the canti boss) is ROUND, then the brake is a FRONT.
If the shape is a HEXAGON, then the brake is a REAR.
Looks like I own 3 pairs of FRONTs and a "broken pair" for the REAR (needs one correct "guts" transplant to be complete)...typical! ;(
EDIT, I think jbchybridrider's description, is exactly 180º from correct in terms of which way the move on the boss. But maybe I mis-read him. Whichever the case, I found a pic on eBay that confirms the above info:
If the shape facing you where you insert the mounting bolt (to screw the arm to the canti boss) is ROUND, then the brake is a FRONT.
If the shape is a HEXAGON, then the brake is a REAR.
Looks like I own 3 pairs of FRONTs and a "broken pair" for the REAR (needs one correct "guts" transplant to be complete)...typical! ;(
EDIT, I think jbchybridrider's description, is exactly 180º from correct in terms of which way the move on the boss. But maybe I mis-read him. Whichever the case, I found a pic on eBay that confirms the above info:
Last edited by unworthy1; 10-03-12 at 12:14 AM.
#46
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I have learned through trial and error how to tell visually if the original Scott Pedersen SE brakes are for front or rear use:
If the shape facing you where you insert the mounting bolt (to screw the arm to the canti boss) is ROUND, then the brake is a FRONT.
If the shape is a HEXAGON, then the brake is a REAR.
Looks like I own 3 pairs of FRONTs and a "broken pair" for the REAR (needs one correct "guts" transplant to be complete)...typical! ;(
EDIT, I think jbchybridrider's description, is exactly 180º from correct in terms of which way the move on the boss. But maybe I mis-read him. Whichever the case, I found a pic on eBay that confirms the above info:
If the shape facing you where you insert the mounting bolt (to screw the arm to the canti boss) is ROUND, then the brake is a FRONT.
If the shape is a HEXAGON, then the brake is a REAR.
Looks like I own 3 pairs of FRONTs and a "broken pair" for the REAR (needs one correct "guts" transplant to be complete)...typical! ;(
EDIT, I think jbchybridrider's description, is exactly 180º from correct in terms of which way the move on the boss. But maybe I mis-read him. Whichever the case, I found a pic on eBay that confirms the above info:
I bought mine as NOS in there original packaging marked front and rear so that is definitely right. My Suntours also look visually the same so the packaging and my original theory in reverse is the only way I can tell.
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Sorry for the very very late reply BG, the tires are SweetSkinz Rattlebacks (on my Diamondback). The whole tire is reflective at night when light hits it. So far I like them, they have worked well both on the street and light trails I have been on and people really notice them where ever I go.
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#48
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This is an older thread, but is proving to be a useful one for something I'm frankensteining.
#49
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Shimano BR M-732 cantis have lots of vertical adjustment, as well as a centering adjustment spring. Circa 1989-early '90's. Here's the velobase link.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano BR-M732, Deore XT
Bought a dirty pair from a bike co-op, cleaned & polished with new pads, cables/housings and they look like new. On my '95 Trek 820 "Apocalypse" bike (you know....just in case).
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano BR-M732, Deore XT
Bought a dirty pair from a bike co-op, cleaned & polished with new pads, cables/housings and they look like new. On my '95 Trek 820 "Apocalypse" bike (you know....just in case).
#50
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MAFAC
Yes, they were still going. That's what I had then, therefore they are the best. They all seemed to stop the bike. Any canti was fine with me, but hated the U brakes.
Yes, they were still going. That's what I had then, therefore they are the best. They all seemed to stop the bike. Any canti was fine with me, but hated the U brakes.