Can I replace an old 27 1x1/8 rear wheel
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Can I replace an old 27 1x1/8 rear wheel
Title says it. I went to remove my rear cassette today to fix a broken spoke and the axle broke. I guess 33 years of riding was too much and it was held together by the friction (honestly don't know long it has been broken). I've looked online and 27 1x1/8 wheels don't seem to exist anymore. If I went with a 1/4 in wheel would everything else still fit? Would I need to get a new cassette/chain front ring as well?
If so I'm not sure it would be worth doing since I could probably pick up a new bike (used) for not much more. The bike in question is 33 years old and has seen a lot of miles so it might be time to move on.
Just trying to figure out what options there are
Thanks
If so I'm not sure it would be worth doing since I could probably pick up a new bike (used) for not much more. The bike in question is 33 years old and has seen a lot of miles so it might be time to move on.
Just trying to figure out what options there are
Thanks
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Broken axles on freewheel bikes aren't all that uncommon. If your wheel is fine otherwise, you should be able to replace just the broken axle for a lot less money.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#3
Banned
The Tires width is getting referenced to wheel width I suspect .
There are repair wheels sold still on 27" , a Bike shop needs them to keep customers with older bikes On the road .
Yes Freewheel hub axles Do Break .. when there are 5 or 6 speeds on one side its quite common.
There are repair wheels sold still on 27" , a Bike shop needs them to keep customers with older bikes On the road .
Yes Freewheel hub axles Do Break .. when there are 5 or 6 speeds on one side its quite common.
#4
Really Old Senior Member
You state cassette, but most hubs from the 27" era are Free Wheels.
Look here to tell the difference.
Freewheel or Cassette?
Look here to tell the difference.
Freewheel or Cassette?
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry to me the cassette is the gears themselves. Yes it is a freewheel, 6 speed bike. Looks like it is a SunTour freewheel. Yes I'm referencing the tire size since that's the only thing I know it by. It seems that fixing the axle would be cheapest but with a bunch of unknowns it might be easier to replace the wheel itself.
I would like to know if because the rest of the drivetrain is very old, that replacing the freewheel would require that I end up replacing the whole drivetrain. If that is the case it might be better just to get a new bike since this bike is not used heavily but just for commuting about 50 miles/week
I would like to know if because the rest of the drivetrain is very old, that replacing the freewheel would require that I end up replacing the whole drivetrain. If that is the case it might be better just to get a new bike since this bike is not used heavily but just for commuting about 50 miles/week
Last edited by nuke_diver; 03-22-16 at 01:56 PM. Reason: adding more detail
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 195
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
... I've looked online and 27 1x1/8 wheels don't seem to exist anymore. If I went with a 1/4 in wheel would everything else still fit? Would I need to get a new cassette/chain front ring as well?
If so I'm not sure it would be worth doing since I could probably pick up a new bike (used) for not much more. The bike in question is 33 years old and has seen a lot of miles so it might be time to move on. ...
If so I'm not sure it would be worth doing since I could probably pick up a new bike (used) for not much more. The bike in question is 33 years old and has seen a lot of miles so it might be time to move on. ...
You've got some good advice already---just replace the broken axle. But I want to address your comment about 27 1-1/8" wheels not existing anymore and your question about switching to a 1-1/4" rim width.
You're right, 27" rims with a 1-1/8" width aren't as easy to find. However, if you're patient you can still find good used ones---sometimes even new ones---on eBay. There are a pair of used Araya 27 1-1/8" wheels with Sansin and Suzue hubs for sale there right now as I write. They don't look like they're in the best shape---but I mention them to show that they still come up for sale regularly. I bought a set of new 27 1-1/8" wheels on eBay two years ago for one of my family's vintage bikes. They were NOS (new old stock) that a bike shop was getting rid of. They matched the bike perfectly (Ukai 27 1-1/8" alloy rims, Suntour alloy hubs, 36 spokes). I bought them primarily for spares. It took a couple of months to find them---I created a search on eBay and configured it to email me whenever a new ad appeared that met my search criteria.
As far as I know, WheelMaster is still making 27 x 1" and 27 x 1-1/4" wheels. You can find them for sale on Amazon.com and some online bike shops like NiagaraCycle.com.
Can you or should you switch to a 1-1/4" rim width since they are still being made? The answer depends on the size tires you prefer to run. If you want to stay with a 27 x 1-1/8" tire size, then I would probably choose a 1" rim width instead (which also appears to still be in production). If your bike has the clearance for 1-1/4" tires (they are surprisingly bigger than 1-1/8") and you would like to use them (they can give you a softer ride), then a 1-1/4" rim width should work great.
I've used 1-1/4" tires on a couple of my family's vintage 1985 Fuji road bikes. The tires were the Vredestein Perfect Moiree---an excellent model. However, both of the Fuji bikes were designed with 27 1-1/8" tires in mind and, in our case, the fit of the 1-1/4" tires was tight. For example, the top of the tires were very close to the center of the brake calipers (within 2 mm or less) and clearing the fenders that were added to one of the bikes was a difficult challenge. So we switched back to 27 1-1/8". If your bike doesn't have fenders and/or you have plenty of clearance around your brake calipers and frame, then you may have no trouble with the 1-1/4" wide tires and the 27 x 1-1/4" rims should work fine.
Kind regards, RoadLight
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hampton Roads VA
Posts: 1,787
Bikes: '07 Trek 520, '09 Gary Fisher Triton, '04 Trek 8000, '85 Trek 500, '84 Trek 610, '85 Trek 510, '88 Trek 660, '92 Trek 930, Trek Multitrack 700
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have these on my Trek 610, they needed a little work with the spoke wrench when new but have held up well since then.
WEINMANN LP18 SILVER 27 126mm ROAD 5/6/7 speed wheelset [72774716654] - $99.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
WEINMANN LP18 SILVER 27 126mm ROAD 5/6/7 speed wheelset [72774716654] - $99.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
__________________
"When I hear another express an opinion, which is not mine, I say to myself, He has a right to his opinion, as I to mine; why should I question it. His error does me no injury, and shall I become a Don Quixot to bring all men by force of argument, to one opinion? If a fact be misstated, it is probable he is gratified by a belief of it, and I have no right to deprive him of the gratification."
T. Jefferson
"When I hear another express an opinion, which is not mine, I say to myself, He has a right to his opinion, as I to mine; why should I question it. His error does me no injury, and shall I become a Don Quixot to bring all men by force of argument, to one opinion? If a fact be misstated, it is probable he is gratified by a belief of it, and I have no right to deprive him of the gratification."
T. Jefferson
#9
Senior Member
Bent and broken axles on freewheel hubs are common, which is one of the reasons cassette hubs have taken over. A good bike shop should have replacement axles. Wheels mfg makes them, or did the last time I needed one. Check the cones to see if they are still good. Relacement cones for some brands are hard to find.
The width of the tire does not necessarily indicate the width of the rim width.
The bike I ride most is 33 years old. 1983 had some great bikes, Treks, Miyatas and Specialized, especially the Sequoia.
The width of the tire does not necessarily indicate the width of the rim width.
The bike I ride most is 33 years old. 1983 had some great bikes, Treks, Miyatas and Specialized, especially the Sequoia.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
If you choose to buy a replacement axle yourself without going through a shop, they're easy to find online, but you'll need to know the length and diameter/threading of your current one to order the right replacement. Assuming it's a hollow axle for a quick-release skewer, it's likely (but not certain) to be 10mm in diameter with a 1 mm thread pitch. If that's the case, THIS is the axle you're looking for. You'll also need a set of cone wrenches (or similar thin metric wrenches) to remove, transfer, and adjust the bearing cones and locknuts.
If you elect to replace the whole wheel or wheelset, there are a few unknowns there as well. You've got a SunTour freewheel, so it's probably safe to assume ISO threading for the hub/freewheel. That's one variable out of the way. The other to worry about is the hub's "OLD" (over locknut distance) width, which should match the distance between the inner faces of the frame's dropouts. Being a six-speed, it's probably 126 mm, but I'd personally measure to be certain. If that's the case, Velomine stocks a few replacement options. There's the Weinmann LP18 option bhchdh mentioned above, which are pretty decent. I own a set myself, even. Be aware that the LP18's are pretty narrow rims, though, and are best suited for tires up to 1 1/8" wide. If you want to go wider, Velomine also stocks this wheelset built from Sun CR-18 rims and it sells for $115. You'll also need the appropriate freewheel tool for your specific freewheel ($10-15) to remove it and transfer to the new wheel.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18349 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
If your rim is good, you can even relace it to a new hub. But first see if you can repair the one you have. Axles (often with cones) are cheap. If you get one with enough threads, but too long, just cut it off.
Our local bike co-op gets a few 27" wheels in from time to time.
Velo Orange makes narrow 27" wheels.
Grand Cru PBP Rear Wheel (High Flange Freewheel Hub 27", 126mm) - 27 inch - Complete Wheels - Wheels, Rims, Hubs & Accessories - Components
Our local bike co-op gets a few 27" wheels in from time to time.
Velo Orange makes narrow 27" wheels.
Grand Cru PBP Rear Wheel (High Flange Freewheel Hub 27", 126mm) - 27 inch - Complete Wheels - Wheels, Rims, Hubs & Accessories - Components
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks again for all the advice. I may also have lost a ball bearing. I count 16 between the 2 sides (should be the same right?) but when the axle fell out (as I was not expecting this and I was looking at what tool I would need to remove the freewheel) I thought I heard a BB hit the ground but I cannot find one. All that makes me think that for the few dollars I might save it would be safer to get a new wheel (less chance of something else being not compatible)
This all started as as simple spoke replacement and is ballooning into much more. I am getting concerned that there might be a whole host of problems upcoming. I'll go to my LBS to see if they have an axle (they don't have a rim since I already called them about that) but I'd like the bike back up and running soon.
This all started as as simple spoke replacement and is ballooning into much more. I am getting concerned that there might be a whole host of problems upcoming. I'll go to my LBS to see if they have an axle (they don't have a rim since I already called them about that) but I'd like the bike back up and running soon.
#13
Senior Member
Where are you located?
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18349 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
Did you get the freewheel removed? If it takes a 2-prong freewheel tool, make sure you have an axle in the hub when removing. For splined tools, it isn't necessary.
I think it is commonly 9 - 1/4" balls on each side (18 total). You should know if you have too many. Bearings are commonly replaced when re-greasing a hub.
Do you have a local bike co-op? You could take your wheel in. Rent some space. Hopefully buy a whole new set of bearings plus axle, and cones if needed. Cones should be pit-free. And, hopefully someone will help you assemble everything and adjust the cones.
I think it is commonly 9 - 1/4" balls on each side (18 total). You should know if you have too many. Bearings are commonly replaced when re-greasing a hub.
Do you have a local bike co-op? You could take your wheel in. Rent some space. Hopefully buy a whole new set of bearings plus axle, and cones if needed. Cones should be pit-free. And, hopefully someone will help you assemble everything and adjust the cones.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,832
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2336 Post(s)
Liked 2,808 Times
in
1,534 Posts
not real helpful....california is big but if you are at all close to San Jose, check out Good Karma bikes. it is a non-profit and they get tons of old wheels.
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Did you get the freewheel removed? If it takes a 2-prong freewheel tool, make sure you have an axle in the hub when removing. For splined tools, it isn't necessary.
I think it is commonly 9 - 1/4" balls on each side (18 total). You should know if you have too many. Bearings are commonly replaced when re-greasing a hub.
Do you have a local bike co-op? You could take your wheel in. Rent some space. Hopefully buy a whole new set of bearings plus axle, and cones if needed. Cones should be pit-free. And, hopefully someone will help you assemble everything and adjust the cones.
I think it is commonly 9 - 1/4" balls on each side (18 total). You should know if you have too many. Bearings are commonly replaced when re-greasing a hub.
Do you have a local bike co-op? You could take your wheel in. Rent some space. Hopefully buy a whole new set of bearings plus axle, and cones if needed. Cones should be pit-free. And, hopefully someone will help you assemble everything and adjust the cones.
Sounds like I'm missing 2 BB Sounds easier and easier to replace the wheel
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18349 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
There is a lot of good info and videos on the internet.
Of course, many of use just plunged in and learned on our own, so there are many ways to skin a cat.
#19
Really Old Senior Member
Just buy an axle and new 18 Bearing Balls at your LBS.
OR
Take the loose parts to the LBS and explain you apparently lost some bearings and need a new axle.
You can have them inspect the cones & races to see if the hub is otherwise good.
They might allow you to watch if they aren't busy and you are polite and seem eager to learn how to do it yourself.
OR
Take the loose parts to the LBS and explain you apparently lost some bearings and need a new axle.
You can have them inspect the cones & races to see if the hub is otherwise good.
They might allow you to watch if they aren't busy and you are polite and seem eager to learn how to do it yourself.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
It's no big deal if you're missing a few balls. Just bring a few more pennies to the bike shop when you drop in for a new axle. They're cheap.
#21
Senior Member
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks again for all the help and a special shoutout to squirtdad. I do live in the South Bay so I went to GoodKarma Bikes and found a wheel that was new but not very expensive that would work. I then went to another bike store and they had the right tool (FR-2) so I pulled the freewheel off today (came off rather easily in fact), cleaned it all up and put it on the new wheel. Everything seems to be working fine though the back brake still needs some adjustment (and it also could stand to be replaced but that's another job). I did not true the wheel (I'm sure that will be shocking to some) but I don't have a truing stand and I cannot imagine that the wheel is worse than the one that was on there (and it seems better). The real test will be a regular 18 mile ride tomorrow.
I haven't decided what to do with the old rim yet. I still might see if I can find the parts online to rebuild the axle as a longer term project
I haven't decided what to do with the old rim yet. I still might see if I can find the parts online to rebuild the axle as a longer term project
#23
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
Thanks again for all the advice. I may also have lost a ball bearing. I count 16 between the 2 sides (should be the same right?) but when the axle fell out (as I was not expecting this and I was looking at what tool I would need to remove the freewheel) I thought I heard a BB hit the ground but I cannot find one.