reluctantsuburb

Hi All,

First post here, so I apologize if I break any forum rules. I tried to read through them beforehand!

I have been looking to build up a vintage steel bike, inspired by the Poor Man's Rivendell thread. Browsing Facebook marketplace, this bike caught my eye, but it has almost no information listed. In particular, it looks like it has a dynamo hub generator, which is very high on my wishlist. Also included appears to be a Brooks saddle and bag. Zooming in on the rear derailleur, looks like a 105 groupset, Possibly VO Grand Cru crankset. Seems like some decorative lugs.

They have it listed for $350. Assuming the dynamo hub is in working order, I would think it may be worth checking into? After listing out some of those components, I'm wondering if it's too good to be true?

Obviously, I've reached out to the seller to inquire, but was curious if anyone here could provide an ID for the bike or any further information.

Thanks!

Trying to post pics and it says I don't have enough posts, whether uploading pictures from my computer or referring out to imgur.

Editing to say: I went ahead and added the imgur link to my bio until I can find a solution

desconhecido 

Looks like a Carradice rear bag, which is nice. Mavic rims -- look like Open Pro profile, but are probably something wider, Velo Orange crankset (46/30), Shimano dynamo hub of one sort or another, bar end shifters that don't look indexed to me (if that's important), bars need to be adjusted and the brake levers aren't oriented correctly to my eye. Can't tell what sort of light it has.
Can't tell what the front bag is and can't tell what the brakes are. It's a pretty small bike (maybe 52 or 53cm) and judging from the high seat position (nice saddle, looks like a recent B17) and extra long stem (probably Nitto -- don't know of another of that length) it may be too small for the present owner.

Anyway, that's a lot of good stuff for $350. If it's the stuff you want and if you're 5'6". or so (like me), it could very well be worth it. If the stuff is not to your liking and you'd have to change a lot to get it to your liking, it's probably not worth it.

edit: Derailleur claw present, but it looks like it might be a cast dropout rather than pressed. Fork crown isn't indicative of a high quality frame (from what i know). Is there a dent in the top tube or is that just a scuff? Perhaps somebody can identify the frame -- I have a wag or two, but am usually wrong.

CliffordK

That frame looks like a fairly cheap frame. Probably "High Tensile Steel", and unlikely double butted.

Nonetheless, it could be solid for a light duty touring frame.

How tall are you? That is also a pretty small frame.

I think it may have a bit of a mix of components, but overall not bad, and you would struggle trying to replace just the components for $350.

The Shimano style generator hubs aren't terribly expensive, but including the wheel build, it all adds up with components you don't have to buy, and work building that you don't have to do.

reluctantsuburb

Thanks for both replies. I'm new to this area of biking (currently commute full-time on a gravel bike where I've raised the bars to be a bit more upright). I certainly don't have an eye for many of the things you both have pointed out. I think maybe the decorative lugs and Dynamo hub were all that swayed me.

I am interested in many of the individual components here, but sadly I am 6'1". How can you size a bike by looking at a post like this? Frame relative to the wheel size?

Anyway, I've started a list for my next build, which is what I hope will be my poor man's Rivendell that I can commute on. This seemed to potentially check many boxes.

Again, thanks to you both.

desconhecido 

The bike has a very short headtube. Notice that the toptube and the bottom tube almost meet. That headtube length looks to me about what a head tube length on a 52cm bike would be. Depending on measuring ctc or ctt. Almost all the older lugged steel bikes with horizontal dropouts had roughly the same geometry and the head relative head tube length is a good, though not infallible, indicator.

Darth Lefty 

Someone definitely built that up with love out of good parts, and is probably loath to part. I would not be surprised if they were on this forum.

reluctantsuburb

Cool--thanks for that tip

Phil_gretz

… for you to build up an excellent multi-purpose commuter. Haggle a bit and buy it for the sole purpose of stripping it down, and then toss or donate the frame. Now all you'll have to do is find the correct frame to build your bike...

reluctantsuburb

I honestly am very interested in doing this! Christmas this year for me was a manual on bike maintenance and a host of new tools. I'm eager to get to wrenching something together that will fit better.

Currently I commute on a 56cm Marin Nicasio RC that was perfect on paper for my commute (I have enjoyed the full fenders, fat tires, and IGH) but it is too small, and the geometry too aggressive for my liking (or was until I tried some more upright bars).

I went ahead with the purchase because I got it new at a steep discount with the close of a Performance Bicycles store near me, and it has been great to learn my tastes on, but I think it's time to get something that fits and will be a more permanent solution.

In its current state...welp, once again ran into the posting pics issue. Will get it up in the bio.

CliffordK

With vintage bikes from the 60's, 70's, and early 80's, they have a top tube parallel to the ground, and tubes all about the same size.

So one can get a rough estimate of frame size by looking at the head tube length. Also one can look at the seat stays.

I find it more difficult to judge more modern frames with oversized tubes, and a sloping top tube, but the head tube can still give some indication of size.

For 6'1, you're probably wanting something between about 56cm and 60cm, at least for a "Road Bike". A MTB would be different.

Go any smaller, and you'll be struggling to get the fit right. Although some people do like lower top tubes.

That bike was probably too small for the previous owner with a pretty tall seatpost and handlebar stem (make sure they are in beyond the minimum insertion points). Even so, the frame may still be short lengthwise.

You can get a rough estimate of the value of a frame by looking at the quality of the lugs (pressed steel vs forged steel), and the quality of the brazing. That one looks better than many. However, the rear "claw" derailleur attachment and that rear dropout makes me think it isn't as good as one might otherwise expect. It is possible that additional braze-ons were added when the frame was repainted.

Is there a white tag in front of the head tube giving it a two-tone look that isn't there?

As far as stripping it for parts, buying small parts new gets really expensive very quickly.

I don't like dickering, but that is hitting close to the top end of what I'd pay. With a plan to part it out, I'd be more comfortable in the $200 to $250 range, but don't know if the seller and I would be able to agree on a price.

reluctantsuburb

Thanks for those tips on sizing up a bike and areas to look for quality.

So far no response from the seller, but I'll keep this updated as things progress.

You mentioned Road and MTB sizings. I have an ignorant question--if I am looking for something more relaxed and upright in riding position, how does that impact my sizing? For example, on my current bike of 56cm I think I technically fall in their recommended height range, but I find the cockpit to feel cramped and that I'm too hunched over for my taste.

reluctantsuburb

Finally heard back from the seller, and it seems like they are not the original owner, or at least if they are, they don't have any info about the original bike.
For everyone that guessed at the size, seller estimated 53-54cm, though their response doesn't make me feel they know the bike all that well.

If I could in theory use the wheelsets, the hub dynamo, the bag/rack, and drivetrain...worth like $200? I already own a Brooks, don't really want to ride drops. Frankly I don't need the drivetrain at the present moment and won't know if I do or not until I find if I get a frame or something with an existing drivetrain.

All of this is uncharted territory for me

wrk101

"For everyone that guessed at the size, seller estimated 53-54cm, though their response doesn't make me feel they know the bike all that well."


I've bought a lot of bikes over the years, I'd estimate around 750. Out of that number, only a handful got the size right. Sellers just don't know how to work a tape measure I guess.

Anyway, you as a buyer need to "calibrate" your eyes so you can quickly estimate bike size from a picture. Then when you look in person, take a tape with you. Also study up on sizing a bike, be sure to consider top tube length too.

In my case, I am agnostic on size as rarely is the bike for me.

I like many of the parts on this bike. Since the bike is way too small for you, its all about the parts. I would not pay $350, but at some point, I would buy it. Myself, I am partial to a bike with cantilever brakes, which this one does not have.

zukahn1 

As for id the frame set looks to be a mach for a late 70's Fuji Gran Tourer SE which was a low end light touring sports model with a basic cho-mo frame set and fork which are actually fairly nice with OK to fairly nice Fuji branded components and steel wheels originally.. So basically nothing on the bike is original .I actually have what I'm pretty sure is the frame set same size in my parts collection got cheap as parts bike and ended up selling the nicer Fuji branded components. I will see If I can dig it out and send some pics for comparison,

reluctantsuburb

Very cool--thanks for the info!