Old Raleigh 3 speed tourist, not what I expected
#1
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Old Raleigh 3 speed tourist, not what I expected
My mother in law told m
e she purchased an old Raleigh and wanted me to overhaul it. I did not expect this. Paint is mint. Chrome in the rod brakes is mint. Only blemishes are the blistering chrome on the rims and a bit of rust on the fender arms. Holy crap. 1940's?
e she purchased an old Raleigh and wanted me to overhaul it. I did not expect this. Paint is mint. Chrome in the rod brakes is mint. Only blemishes are the blistering chrome on the rims and a bit of rust on the fender arms. Holy crap. 1940's?
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
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transfer font on chainguard & downtube says it cannot be earlier than about 1974
there should be a specific date mark on the S-A hub
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transfer font on chainguard & downtube says it cannot be earlier than about 1974
there should be a specific date mark on the S-A hub
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Last edited by juvela; 04-04-21 at 10:27 PM. Reason: spellin'
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Decals are 1973+, shifter is 1975+, chaincase is unusual, but the RAMPAR logos indicate a US-market bike.
I don't remember when the tubing sticker went from "RALEIGH" to "TI-RALEIGH Limited," but I think that might have been '77/78.
Check the rear hub for a month + last-two-digits-year date code. Can't make out the rear fender, but it looks as if it might not have a white tail. My guess is this example is from 1978 through 1982, not that much significantly changed over those years - or even from the '73s.
-Kurt
I don't remember when the tubing sticker went from "RALEIGH" to "TI-RALEIGH Limited," but I think that might have been '77/78.
Check the rear hub for a month + last-two-digits-year date code. Can't make out the rear fender, but it looks as if it might not have a white tail. My guess is this example is from 1978 through 1982, not that much significantly changed over those years - or even from the '73s.
-Kurt
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#4
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Thanks for the help. I had no idea they were still putting these crazy brakes on bikes into the 80's? I briefly looked through catalogs and cannot find a match. the frame style with the curved down tube and full chain case resembled the older models more than the late 70 and 80 models? Thought it could have been an older bike repainted and decaled in the 80s because the paint looks so good. I will go through it but this bike is much different than anything I have worked on before.
Do I need special rims for these brakes?
Do I need special rims for these brakes?
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
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#6
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Very nice. You might also want to post in the "For the love of English 3-speeds" thread.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-3-speeds.html
That style step-through frame is called a "loop."
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-3-speeds.html
That style step-through frame is called a "loop."
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What is the date stamp on the rear hub? (See posts 2 and 3 above.)
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Thanks for the help. I had no idea they were still putting these crazy brakes on bikes into the 80's? I briefly looked through catalogs and cannot find a match. the frame style with the curved down tube and full chain case resembled the older models more than the late 70 and 80 models? Thought it could have been an older bike repainted and decaled in the 80s because the paint looks so good. I will go through it but this bike is much different than anything I have worked on before.
The chaincase is unusual, but the loop frame has always been standard fare for the DL1L. Here are pictures from the '78 and '81 catalogs (note that '81 shows the men's model only):
You will need special pads for these, yes. And the quality of your truing job on the wheels will fully determine how smooth the braking is!
-Kurt
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Sweet! I loved my '80 Tourist. Those bikes feel like nothing else (except maybe a 12' longboard on a glassy, shoulder-height tube).
The rod brakes work just fine unless it's raining, in which case...tell your MIL to get off the bike and call for a ride. Adjusting the brakes can be a challenge; I ended up using extra washers to push the pads toward the center of the rims for full contact.
It's worth buying the extra-large Fibrax ASH144 brake pads. In my experience, they work better than the smaller Kool Stop salmon inserts.
It's also probably worth buying her some more durable tires (e.g. Schwalbe Delta Cruiser Plus) -- you won't want to be taking that rear wheel off unless you absolutely have to.
The rod brakes work just fine unless it's raining, in which case...tell your MIL to get off the bike and call for a ride. Adjusting the brakes can be a challenge; I ended up using extra washers to push the pads toward the center of the rims for full contact.
It's worth buying the extra-large Fibrax ASH144 brake pads. In my experience, they work better than the smaller Kool Stop salmon inserts.
It's also probably worth buying her some more durable tires (e.g. Schwalbe Delta Cruiser Plus) -- you won't want to be taking that rear wheel off unless you absolutely have to.
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Yep, and Flying Pigeon and a number of other Chinese and Indian firms inherited the old Raleigh tooling and continue to push out copies to this day. Not as frequent as 10 years ago though.
The chaincase is unusual, but the loop frame has always been standard fare for the DL1L. Here are pictures from the '78 and '81 catalogs (note that '81 shows the men's model only):
You will need special pads for these, yes. And the quality of your truing job on the wheels will fully determine how smooth the braking is!
-Kurt
The chaincase is unusual, but the loop frame has always been standard fare for the DL1L. Here are pictures from the '78 and '81 catalogs (note that '81 shows the men's model only):
You will need special pads for these, yes. And the quality of your truing job on the wheels will fully determine how smooth the braking is!
-Kurt
This bike is in great shape. Squirt some 30 weight oil in the rear hub and make sure everything is in working order and give it a ride. It is different than today's bikes. Kind of fun, kind of laid back. It makes you feel like you will get there but, there is no need to race. You can keep the same heart rate as when you are walking and cover far more ground.
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#13
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Update:
The rear hub is marked 81.
I finally found the time to work on this bike.. What a pain in the you know what. To get the rear wheel off I had to remove the brake pads,, the back of the chain guard, the fender as well as the rear rack legs.
The chain guard fully surrounds the crankset all the way to the rear wheel.. I can't figure out how to remove it without taking off the crankset. The chain was cut so short that there was no room to push the wheel forward into the fork end to get the chain off. I just barely got the chain to derail to remove the rear. Blown away buy just how crazy this bike is.
The front wheel has a lot of corrosion on the rim. I am looking for a replacement wheel or rim if anyone has one? Need 28 × 1.50 635 - 24.
The rear hub is marked 81.
I finally found the time to work on this bike.. What a pain in the you know what. To get the rear wheel off I had to remove the brake pads,, the back of the chain guard, the fender as well as the rear rack legs.
The chain guard fully surrounds the crankset all the way to the rear wheel.. I can't figure out how to remove it without taking off the crankset. The chain was cut so short that there was no room to push the wheel forward into the fork end to get the chain off. I just barely got the chain to derail to remove the rear. Blown away buy just how crazy this bike is.
The front wheel has a lot of corrosion on the rim. I am looking for a replacement wheel or rim if anyone has one? Need 28 × 1.50 635 - 24.
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
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Chain break.
You find the chain split link via the removable quadrant at the rear, hook a couple of old spokes or two bits of string either side of the split link , undo the split link and lift the wheel out - make sure the chain doesn't slide down into the chain case.Reverse to replace.
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https://www.dutchbikebits.com/parts-...cle-wheel-rims
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Rim corrosion
Update:
The rear hub is marked 81.
I finally found the time to work on this bike.. What a pain in the you know what. To get the rear wheel off I had to remove the brake pads,, the back of the chain guard, the fender as well as the rear rack legs.
The chain guard fully surrounds the crankset all the way to the rear wheel.. I can't figure out how to remove it without taking off the crankset. The chain was cut so short that there was no room to push the wheel forward into the fork end to get the chain off. I just barely got the chain to derail to remove the rear. Blown away buy just how crazy this bike is.
The front wheel has a lot of corrosion on the rim. I am looking for a replacement wheel or rim if anyone has one? Need 28 × 1.50 635 - 24.
The rear hub is marked 81.
I finally found the time to work on this bike.. What a pain in the you know what. To get the rear wheel off I had to remove the brake pads,, the back of the chain guard, the fender as well as the rear rack legs.
The chain guard fully surrounds the crankset all the way to the rear wheel.. I can't figure out how to remove it without taking off the crankset. The chain was cut so short that there was no room to push the wheel forward into the fork end to get the chain off. I just barely got the chain to derail to remove the rear. Blown away buy just how crazy this bike is.
The front wheel has a lot of corrosion on the rim. I am looking for a replacement wheel or rim if anyone has one? Need 28 × 1.50 635 - 24.
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