scooterfrog

I would like to get a bike on craigs list to ride but i am wondering how I can tell if there is any quality to it.

i know I can replace just about everything but the frame in the long run.

so what to look for in an old bike (lets say 80s 90s is that vintage)

i am thinking downtube shifters are a good sign and presta valves are an excellent sign
what else to look for that I could see in a decent picture

something like this for
[h=2]1980's Motobecane Road Bike - $100[/h]

JPZ66

Lots of ways to look at that question.....first and foremost would be to go and physically look at the bike in question. If youre not sure where to start, just browse the forums, or do a search either here or on the web, for the make/model in question to see if it appears to actually be the model as claimed. In basic terms, look for the quality of the tubing set, if known, check the level of workmanship on the welds or lugwork. Also, higher level components tend to be hung on better quality frames. A little research goes a long way. Try to find something with parts of a quality nature, as changing out those parts and wheel sets can really push the cost up after the fact. Take stock of the condition and cleanliness as well. Clean, well serviced and quality parts will tell you a lot about how the bicycle has been maintained over the years. Of course, sometimes, when you really know your stuff, you will find those neglected " diamonds in the rough " that just need proper cleaning and care to really be nice.

You really need to look at a lot of pictures or other bicycles firsthand to know what is what. Be wary of repainted, frames....unscrupulous sellers will repaint and re-decal something to make it appear to be something it's not, so they can attempt to get 'hand built' money for a garbage production frame. Lastly, if you have the time, posting good clear photos on here for others to see will put many experienced eyes on the subject and provide some additional verification and feedback.

Most importantly, take it for a ride and make sure the fit is what you want and that it handles nicely. Like buying just about anything vintage or of value.....experience is key !

Good luck in your quest !!

Joe

scooterfrog

those are all good points. do lots of research, take it for a ride, but I am looking for a way to filter out the crap. lets just say the old lbs bikes from the xmart bikes before I even pick up the phone.

but you added some good points. tubing set. if its "named" that's a good thing fancy looking lugs nice welds

watch out for repainted frames because the hide bad news

treebound 

https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...-and-Inquiries

Read the stickies at the top of the section, and then read some of the replies in some of the requests to see what sort of comments are made, learn from that.

Downtube shifters were used on many levels of bikes, from junkers to high-enders, so isn't really a reliable gauge to judge by.
Presta valves are the same, especially with older bikes where the country or origin might have had a larger determinate than the quality level when the factory or importer spec'd the bike out.
Even something like bolt-on rear derailleur hangers does not always work as an indicator of lower quality bikes.

Stamped versus forged rear dropouts is better at judging aparent quality, but even then isn't always 100% accurate.

Lugged versus non-lugged steel does not always work either because there are some downright junky lugged steel frames out there. And there are some that vary within a production run as well.

Stem shifters sometimes works, but sometimes an owner along the way might have converted the bike in question from barend shifters, or might have had a problem with the downtube shifters (stripped thread, corrosion, comfort) and went with another format.

One of the folks on the site here has a nice "what to look for" link in his signature, find and go read that as well.

Things to watch for:
Bent forks, corrosion, stuck stems, stuck seatposts, French threading (not a problem if you have the parts), alloy versus steel wheels, 3-piece cranks versus one piece cranks versus cottered cranks. Those are just the starters that I check initially when looking at wrong-side craigslist photos or when walking up to a bike at a thrift shop or rummage sale.

And there is really nothing overtly wrong with lower end bikes as long as they are safe to ride and as long as they get you to where you're going.

jon c. 

downtube shifters are definitely a better sign than stem shifters. Similarly, 'cheater' brake levers (or whatever they're call - the ones that come across the front of the bars) tended to be installed on cheaper bikes. Named tubing (I'm a believer in all things Reynolds, but there's nice Tange and Ishwata and other brands as well) is a definite plus. But once you get down around the $100 range, that gets harder to find. A quick google search of the brand name, even if you don't get info on the specific model, should usually give you some idea as to the quality. Generally, even the lower end from someone who makes high end bikes will be superior to a xmart bike.

StanSeven

Having just sold three bikes (Ti road with DA, a fixie, and a hybrid), they go fast on CL. I could have sold them within the first hour if I was prepared and wanted. My advice is know what you want in advance, know how much you want to pay, and act as soon as you see something that interests you.

treebound 

The local market is a huge factor as well. In some markets that $100 Motobecane would be sold in the first hour or sooner, in other markets it will end up getting reposted for weeks before it either sells or the seller gives up on selling it.

JPZ66

I guess I'd add: get to know the various manufacturers, and models they offered for the years in question. Most makers offered 'entry level' on up through their top of the line models, so knowing the level of quality for a particular model will tell you if it is decent bike and value. If I see something interesting, I will get online and do a search for that bike, and usually find a ton of info about it, others like it for sale, what it originally came with, user reviews, etc. I'll jump on eBay to see if there are any listed and what amount, if any, the bids are. Also, most sellers are honest about what they have but often have no clue about the current values, some just see a bike and have a low price, while others ask pie-in-the-sky type numbers for. This is where your research and knowledge come into play. Look at adds where the seller mentions that they are moving soon. They are more likely to negotiate and take a lower price. Ultimately, once you have a little info, you need to decide if it is a good value to you and what you're willing to spend on it.

An example in my case would be Japanese bikes. I am not interested in the least in Japanese bikes, even though there have been many high quality offerings in that market, with top notch components, they just don't interest me, so I have not taken the time to educate myself about them and have surely missed out on some excellent deals....no big deal to me, and I'm sure that has made somebody else a happy buyer!

And, I suppose, like just about anything else....buy the best example and best quality level that you can afford.

Cheers,

Joe

oddjob2

THAT MOTOBECANE HAPPENS TO BE WELL UNDERPRICED AS IT IS A VITUS 888 FRAME. I think it is a Grand Record from late 70's or early 1980's, per the graphics. Just double check with the seller that the fork is original and if not, why was it replaced.

bigbossman 

The only frames worth a professional repaint are the higher end ones. I can't imagine someone would spend the $$$ on a professional paint job on a higher end bike without addressing any damage issues. It wouldn't make any sense.

Now, if you're talking a DIY or rattlecan job, sure. But I'd avoid it just for that fact, never mind any hidden issues.

scooterfrog

wow this is great information. thanks all.

Cattywompus

Is that elk hide on the handlebars?