Gary64

Before

after

tiredhands 

Nice! Not to jump all over this and derail the thread, but I'm real curious about those Soma Condor bars - I'd love a ride report when you've got one!

merziac

@joejack951

May have asked this before, any plans of going the other way with something, threadless to quill?

Gary64

Will do!What little I've been able to get out really like them so far.have a set of the original condor bar and don't care for them,these are the condor 2.Planning on a ride tomorrow.

joejack951

Hey, Sorry for the late response. I believe a product exists to do that already but my Google searches can't seem to find it. I have no intention of producing such a product, though.

joejack951

This looks great, Gary! Still waiting on that ride report but aesthetically it is a huge improvement over the adapter (in my biased opinion ).

merziac

No worries, I think you're right, seems like it was a kludge.

Gary64

tiredhands
joejack951
I really like the improvement in looks,rides and handles great!Really liking the soma condor 2 bars,didnt have the whole phone mount on in the pics but with the bars having a rise the phone sits down in the recess and is non obtrusive.I use the phone as a speedometer with "ride with gps" app.

Gary64

Thank you,cool your over my way.I live in the county between springfield and enon.

3doghouse

Found this thread today, and immediately ordered one on Amazon. Thank you for bringing this to market @joejack951! Going on a Trek 610 restomod as soon as I can figure out the forks.

joejack951

Awesome! Are you looking for a replacement fork or using the original? What's the build plan?

Thanks to a sprained ankle which has me unable to run and some slow time at work, I was able to get out on my Trek 660 for ~100 miles over the course of two rides this past week. Coming off a few rides on my Chinabomb (carbon everything, disc brakes), it is surprising just how modern the 660 feels with the updated front end, and just how comfortable vintage steel is. The Chinabomb has 25mm tubulars versus 23mm clinchers on the 660 and both bikes have quite a plush ride (tires are Vittoria Corsa G+ on both so a reasonably fair comparison). The tubulars definitely yield better handling but the Trek is just as smooth of a ride even without the extra tire volume and using aluminum handle bars and seatpost.

3doghouse

That's encouraging! I just ordered a set of the Corsa G's in 25 clincher for it... Couldn't pass on the sale at CC.

Here's where I have to watch out for flames... Purists have mercy... I bought it as a frame with bad paint... It will have SRAM Rival on it, 1x11, and looking for a carbon fork.

The bare head tube is 145mm, so what would you recommend in steer tube and thread length ?

joejack951

I might need to grab a couple extra tires at that price! Thanks for the tip.

1X vintage steel? You could do worse

Steerer tube requirements:
1. Must be 27mm min/45mm max longer than bare headtube measured from fork crown
2. Threads on steerer tube must end no more than 16mm above the edge of the bare headtube (using fork crown as reference)

So with a 145mm head tube you'll be looking for a steerer tube at least 172mm long up to 190mm. For the 172mm steerer tube, it will need at least 11mm of thread. The 190mm steerer tube will need >29mm, or be increased to that with a die.

3doghouse

Awesome! Thanks for the guidance. I'll post pics when it's together.

joejack951

I've posted this bike elsewhere but thought it would make a good update to this thread as it demonstrate the max stem height one can achieve with an uncut innicycle headset. The Cannondale below has a 40mm clamp height stem and 50mm of spacers below it, using up every available millimeter of steerer tube on the quill portion. The resulting hood and drop heights are very similar to the original bike fitted a quill stem at its max height (see pic below for original bike as purchased).

Wilmingtech

@joejack951 Would this work with a 1" threadless steerer tube? Say if I was looking to use a columbus carbon fork,like this

Or is it designed only to work with a threaded steerer?

Thanks!

-Sean

joejack951

Hey Sean! This product is 1” threaded steerer only. If you are already threadless on your fork you have plenty of ‘normal’ headset options.

wildbill6949

I like how this looks. I see it for sale in black on Amazon, but not in silver. Sorry if this is covered elsewhere, but is it sold in silver?

joejack951

Does it not show up when searching ‘innicycle’ on their site? If not try ‘innicycle silver’ in Google. Or I can just PM you a link. Definitely available in silver though black seems to be the more popular choice so far.

Rocket-Sauce 

This might be a dumb question....
So I am supposed to cut the old fork right?

Any guidelines on how much to cut off? Or where? Or am I missing some obvious way to get it to slide over the old threads?

Also, how do I cut the "steer tube" extension so I can get that slammed look? There seems to be a seam at the perfect spot, and looking at the drawings above, it seems like it should separate there.

Sorry for being so dense....

joejack951

First, let's be sure you have the headset cups installed correctly. The cups are slightly different for the top and bottom. The easiest way to determine which is which is that in the installed orientation the text will be right side up. Based on your picture, it appears that you have the lower cup installed in the top cup's spot.

Second, the quill/upper race portion of the conversion headset is threaded internally. You should be able to, with only hand force, screw that portion onto your fork's threads. This is the feature that will allow you to preload your headset bearings. If for some reason it will not thread on smoothly, first check that you have 1"-24 threads (you should unless you have a fairly uncommon bike). Next, check that the threads don't have any obvious damage. If they do, a 60° miniature file can be used to clean them up, or go to a shop with the proper threading die.

Third, judging by your pic, your steerer tube may need to be trimmed in order for the INNI headset to fit. In my early posts I detail how the measurements necessary for proper function. I can walk you through that in more detail if necessary. Please confirm the numbers before cutting if there is any doubt!

These are great questions that highlight how badly I need put together a video showing the full installation.

While that seam may look to be at the perfect spot, I highly doubt you have a stem with a clamp zone that short. That said, the shortest stem clamp height for which the tube can be trimmed is 38mm. Most stems will be 40-42mm at the steerer clamp, though. When trimming, you'll want to take into account the height of the 6mm hex cap as ideally it will be flush with the stem after trimming. It is the same diameter as the steerer tube portion to allow for this:

1. To shorten conversion quill assembly, first determine ideal height of stem. If using spacers, install them under the stem to ensure exact height. Mark top of stem position on conversion quill tube.
2. Remove conversion quill from fork, remove top cap assembly and wedge, clamp in cutting guide, and cut 2.5mm +0/-0.5mm below marked line using hacksaw.
3. Deburr cut edges with file, deburring tool, sharp knife, or sandpaper.

As far as the headset separating at that seam, that's where the quill and upper race are bonded together. I can't internally thread the upper race with the quill extending through it so it is made in two pieces.

Rocket-Sauce 

OK, I will make the cuts tomorrow and post an update.
Super impressed with the quality of the whole thing. Very high end.

joejack951

Can you post the measurements of your steerer tube length (crown to end) and head tube length? I’d like to be sure you are cutting off the right amount Your steerer tube appears to have plenty of threads so I don’t see that as being an issue.

Were there spacers installed under the locknut with your prior headset? Pics?

Rocket-Sauce 

The previous headset, a nice Nuovo Record (which is for sale), had a 13mm spacer.

Steerer tube length 228mm


Head tube length 176mm



So it looks like I need to cut the fork's steerer tube down to 221mm (allowing for the max 45mm difference mentioned above).
In the previous post's picture, the top bearing race / steer tube were threaded down onto the fork as far as I thought it would go. It can go further, but was *very* hard to turn. I've threaded it down a few times and seems to have loosened up. FYI, the threads on the fork are super clean.

joejack951

Thanks for the pics. On the steerer tube measurement, you want the full tube length down to the fork crown as opposed to the newly-added crown race. The crown race is 3.5mm thick at the flat faces so your full steerer tube length is actually ~232mm.

Your ideal steerer tube length is 176mm + 45mm = 221mm, as you correctly calculated, but as you are measuring from the new crown race you'll actually want that measurement to be ~217mm (subtracting ~4mm for the crown race thickness), or 11mm of steerer removed (roughly the same as that spacer thickness, not by coincidence).

As far as the tightness threading on the upper portion, if you've threaded it on to the end at least a full couple of turns by hand and the threads are visibly clean, you can be confident that it is not cross threaded. At that point, you can clamp on a threadless stem which will make further threading (including the bearing preload adjustment) *much* easier. Always get those first few turns by hand, though.

For reference, the upper portion will thread over ~27mm worth of steerer tube before the steerer bottoms out internally. Don't try to force it more than that but it will need to go that far to preload the bearings so get a sense of what that feels like. Depending on how clean the tube ID is and how concentric its threads are to that ID it can take some additional torque to get it there. On my Trek 660 that was definitely the case but other bikes have only needed extra torque at the bearing preload step.