Hydraulic Disc brake issue
#1
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Hydraulic Disc brake issue
Hey guys. I have a new Fuji with Hydraulic disc brakes. As you can see in the pic, I need to remove the front wheel to store it on my wall at home. The issue is that every time I put the wheel back on, the pads scrape against the brakes and I have to readjust my brakes, which is a pain in the butt. Anyone know why it is doing this and how I can fix it?
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That is a common issue with quick release levers and hydraulic brakes.
Most of the issue is with the quick release applying different torque. This can be mitigated by counting how many full revolutions to release the wheel from the dropout tabs. To tighten, turn the same number of revolutions.
Also, dont squeeze the brake levers without the wheels, as hydros adjust automatically for wear. There are brake blocks you can use to insert ib the caliper.
Hope this helps
Most of the issue is with the quick release applying different torque. This can be mitigated by counting how many full revolutions to release the wheel from the dropout tabs. To tighten, turn the same number of revolutions.
Also, dont squeeze the brake levers without the wheels, as hydros adjust automatically for wear. There are brake blocks you can use to insert ib the caliper.
Hope this helps
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If the pads scrape the rotor, and you have to adjust the caliper every time you mount the wheel, this means that relationship/geometry is different every time, meaning you're not getting the wheel inserted into the fork exactly the same each time. This is usually fixed by tightening the skewer with the bike on the ground. Don't try to do it "in the air" or in a stand. In general, this should net you pretty consistent results.
#4
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Why not hang the Fuji on top and the Trek on the bottom??? The Trek front wheel is easier to remove and replace with no break issues.
#5
Non omnino gravis
When the wheel is on the bike and the brake is adjusted to your liking, make a mark on one hub endcap and onto the fork. Then when you're putting the wheel in, just make sure the marks line up. The scraping has nothing to do with the QR skewer. The endcaps on the hub just have some tiny eccentricity to them. Not uncommon at all.
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Are you touching the brake lever with the wheel off? That'll do it every time.
Touching the break lever without the rotor in the caliper will cause the pads to 'reset' to a tighter position.
You can either be really careful not to touch the brake lever, or you can put a stopped in the caliper to give the pads something to squeeze against.
Looks like this...
If you get the right one for your brake brand it should snap in and hold in place.
Touching the break lever without the rotor in the caliper will cause the pads to 'reset' to a tighter position.
You can either be really careful not to touch the brake lever, or you can put a stopped in the caliper to give the pads something to squeeze against.
Looks like this...
If you get the right one for your brake brand it should snap in and hold in place.
#7
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Are you touching the brake lever with the wheel off? That'll do it every time.
Touching the break lever without the rotor in the caliper will cause the pads to 'reset' to a tighter position.
You can either be really careful not to touch the brake lever, or you can put a stopped in the caliper to give the pads something to squeeze against.
Looks like this...
If you get the right one for your brake brand it should snap in and hold in place.
Touching the break lever without the rotor in the caliper will cause the pads to 'reset' to a tighter position.
You can either be really careful not to touch the brake lever, or you can put a stopped in the caliper to give the pads something to squeeze against.
Looks like this...
If you get the right one for your brake brand it should snap in and hold in place.