rollagain

My apologies; on my part, at least, I failed to help you with your actual problem, and you seem to be at the steepest part of the learning curve, since you aren't using standard terms to describe the parts of the bike's transmission.

Here is the most basic explanation of what the parts are and what they do in a derailleur transmission:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html

You won't be able to get good information until you know how to ask the right questions, and for that you need to know the proper names of the parts. Note that "chainwheel" isn't used too much; you'll more commonly see "chainring." And "sprocket" is pretty much exclusively used in reference to the rear end of the drive system.

Maybe someone will post more and/or better references.

Rollfast

I stripped the Shimano 333 stuff off of a Wards Hawthorne and made it a single speed, Bam! It was a ladies frame and a gift to someone though. Too bad, that frame was strong.

MattTheHat 

The rear derailleur is removable. Here's a link. If you use the zoom tool you can almost zoom it big enough to tell what kind of RD it is, but you can definitely zoom in enough to see the attachment bolt.

-Matt

zarbog

Canada is huge, are you near Toronto by chance? Police auction has occasional decent bikes for little money. This one will probably go for around 150 bucks https://www.policeauctionscanada.com...d-Bike-176547D

Check kijiji gor local bike repair people, and for used parts.

VegasTriker

The picture of the bike clearly shows it had a derailleur hangar attached to the rear dropout and the derailleur bolted to the hangar. If you think that everything you need to know you learned by Kindergarten, that's really sad I hadn't learned the parts of a bike by then. . Over the years I have gone from a one speed to a 3 speed to a 10 speed and now to a 30 speed drive train. With quality parts, the 30 speed shifting works even better than my first 10 speed. Also had one with 48 speeds due to using internal hubs.

GrainBrain

OP needs to grab some wrenches and an Allen key set and start tightening fasteners!

Dan Burkhart 

So, I happened to be in a Canadian Tire store this afternoon, and I wandered over to the bike aisle, which is one area I usually avoid. Sure enough, there was a Krossroads in the rack, so I pulled it out to have a look see.
Aluminum frame, vertical dropouts and no removable derailleur hanger. Bottom of the line direct mount Shimano derailleur to match the build level of the rest of the bike.

dedhed

This isn't about the gearing ratios, it's about getting the gears to function. The only math needed is is it worth sticking $$$ into fixing.

BlazingPedals

The gears will never work correctly if the derailleur hanger is out of alignment. The pulleys need to be aligned vertically and horizontally with the freewheel. So check that first.

If the derailleur is aligned OK, then you could be looking at simple adjustments. Find some videos on Youtube and get to work. Ditto with fixing your brakes. Don't expect us to diagnose all your problems remotely and teach you how to do simple tasks that a normal person could teach himself by futzing for 5 minutes.

mikjames

Not that you have any obligation to be helpful or to apologize, but this is the least sincere "apology" I've ever seen. I don't have time to read up on the history/mechanisms of gearing just because you take issue with one of my terms. If you don't understand a term or believe it to be incorrect, point it out and get over it. Others have already provided useful information based on the info I've provided. I'll say it again, you have no obligation to be helpful. If you are primarily concerned with trashing cheap brands, pointing out how naive I was to make such a purchase, and providing an introduction to gearing with a condescending apology...go right ahead. You aren't fooling anyone with your mock sincerity, I don't appreciate your brand of "help".

mikjames

Are you kidding me with this? What does grade school have to do with becoming a bicycle mechanic? When did figuring out which parts to replace or not replace come to require a post secondary degree?
The rear derailleur is permanently bolted to the frame with a flimsy bolt, I've said this right from the start of the thread. I don't understand how some of you can get so far off topic and so damn confused. I'm not here to become a damn bicycle mechanic, I'm here seeking basic information regarding the reliability of various gearing configurations.

BillyD

@rollagain Please leave the thread. Do not respond further in this thread. Thanks!

mikjames

Thank you! Finally we have forum members with confirmation, and a reasonable comprehension of the problem, and it only took 2 pages of repeating it!
My conclusions: 1) Single speed is always going to be the most reliable, though not particularly practical for the hills of Halifax/Dartmouth. 2) The more gears you have on a cog/set (or whatever the hell you deem the correct terminology), the greater the required precision and cost of components for smooth shifting. 3) We have quite a few of the best bicycle mechanics on here, who also have the prestigious achievement of completing grade school under their belt, and they're here to ensure we all become top notch bike mechanics as well

BillyD

Guys, the OP has made it clear more than once, if you don't have anything helpful to say don't say anything at all.

Happy Feet

A question Dan. Is the derailer permanently secured to the hanger by a rivet or some sort of non removable post or is it a hex drive bolt?


Don't let the crazies get you down. There are some good folks too.

If the derailer is permanently attached you have a problem but if it's a removable bolt you can just buy a cheap used donor bike for parts or even a low/mid level derailer to replace it. For basic commuting there is a point where spending more on parts doesn't get better returns. At this point it may be a lesson learned and you will know more of what to look for/avoid in the future. Let's wait to hear what Dan says about the derailer.

Dan Burkhart 

The derailleur is not permanently attached. It's a standard direct mount (bolt on) type which can be easily upgraded.
My observation was that it mounts directly to the frame without use of a removable/ replaceable hanger that aluminum frames usually have.
I should also note that direct mount has more than one meaning when it comes to Shimano derailleurs. The other type is much more recent and applies only on the top end.
__________________

Happy Feet

Wonderful!

Mikjames. Your problem is just a crappy bottom of the line derailer and the solution is easy enough. Replace the rear derailer with a new mid grade model (don't cheap out but also no need for high end on that level of build). Perhaps look at another shop just for a change and even better a family oriented or old school shop that is comfortable working on lower level/older bikes. The mechanics often have a better knowledge of workaround fixes.

You don't need a removable bolt hanger, many good frames from the 70s and 80's did not have them. To secure the hanger bolt better use some loctite and if the threads are stripped you can probably use a longer bolt and squeeze a thin nut behind the hanger.

mikjames

Oh, I think I understand what the problem is then. It's the built in bolt hanger that is the problem, it's loose/flimsy. I'm looking into a higher quality bike, there are a few affordable Trek's in my area.

Happy Feet

When you see a bike you like try asking about it in the commuter or hybrid sub forums here. They are a little more average joe user friendly that way. General discussions is a bit kooky.

On the next bike, if it has shimano components, look for at least Claris or Sora labeling. There is better of course but that will be good enough while not buying another future low grade problem.

Fwiw as to terminology. The one piece bolt hanger is fine. That's the part of the bike that extends just past the wheel axle and is solid. The problem is the derailer itself. That is the whole thing attached beyond the black bolt with the hex hole in the middle. It's just poorly machined with too much play to be adjusted for any amount of time.

alcjphil

The bolt/hanger looseness is a result of the low quality of the derailleur, nothing else. What I fail to understand is why bikes shops that you have been to did not explain this. It is entirely possible that there was a misunderstanding between you and the shop when you brought the bike in. They may have thought that you were unwilling to spend enough to replace your poor quality rear derailleur and other shift components for more reliable parts. It might have been a communication issue on both sides. I have looked back at your original question and one point that I wonder about is how much you rode this bike before you encountered problems. The bike was not designed for someone who would use it almost every day and in all sorts of weather conditions. It is designed for occasional use for casual cycling. Used that way, it would probably provide years of enjoyable service. However, it is not made for everyday all weather cycling. If you have been riding it regularly in Halifax/Dartmouth in poor weather conditions, you will have exceeded its design specifications. Fewer speeds will not equate to better reliability, only to buying a bike with cheaper parts unless you decide to buy a bike with a good quality internal rear hub with 5 speeds or more. If you are talking about bicycles that use derailleurs to change gears, you always have to have a rear derailleur, you cannot have a viable bike with a left hand 3 speed shifter unless you also have a rear derailleur. Fewer "speeds" (7 or less for your right hand) pretty much relegates you to low quality parts unless you are looking at a bike that is over 20 years old. 8,9,10 speed shifting requires better precision, but component manufacturers have pretty much abandoned anything less than 8 speed to cheap department store bikes. The good news is that very good high quality rear derailleurs designed for as many as "9 speeds" will work very well with your 7 speed shifters

Happy Feet

MEC, a Canadian company, sells Shimano Altus and Tourney rear derailers for $38 and $25 respectively. There's no problem getting a 7 speed RD for the bike.

dedhed

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from...&_sacat=177813

BlazingPedals

The bolt isn't flimsy, but it could be loose. Especially given the reputation that department stores everywhere have earned for their conscientious assembly practices. (Not!)

mikjames

I don't why the bike shop would declare the same problem time and again. I offered on multiple occasions to buy a better derailleur from them along with other components, and they keep saying the same thing about the derailleur bolt hanger. They are the highest rated shop in Dartmouth/Halifax. Since I live in Dartmouth it hasn't made any sense to travel to Halifax for repairs. It's possible they just really wanted to sell me the entry level Brody bikes they've mentioned.
I'm going to start a new thread on the local bike brands, though I'm not optimistic on getting advice within my budget. I simply won't spend more than 600$ on a bike taxes, and it would have to be a hell of a 600$ bike to even justify spending that.

clengman

Maybe the hole in the hanger is stripped? Have you tried just tightening the allen head bolt holding the derailleur to the hanger? If you can tighten it and it no longer flops around then you're good. If you can tighten it and it still seems flimsy it's probably the derailleur. A new $30 rear derailleur should be all you need. If you turn the bolt and it doesn't get tight, then the hole is stripped. As someone posted above, you might be able to get a longer derailleur mounting bolt and a thin nut to hold it from the inside, but I don't imagine it would be straightforward to find parts that would work.