Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

late 80s Schwinn Woodlands 24", bearing parts

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

late 80s Schwinn Woodlands 24", bearing parts

Old 06-11-19, 10:26 AM
  #1  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
late 80s Schwinn Woodlands 24", bearing parts

Hello. New here. I am the original owner of a Schwinn Woodlands 24" 10 speed that I got new in April 1988. For sitting outside for 31 years it's held up very well, almost no rust on it, but I need to do some work on the headset and crank bearings. I also need to tighten the rear wheel bearings, there is some play there. But it rolls smooth, no improper noises. Would be a good time to go through the whole bike, now I have a garage to work in and store it. I'd post pics but I don't have enough posts yet.

I have the serial number and tried looking it up on various sites, and it tells me it's a 1950's serial number. Nope.

Any tips for sourcing the correct parts? Crank is Tracer, rims are Wein Mann, shift mechanism is Shimano.

I've done bike basics like brakes and shift mechanisms. I'm an engineer and I've done car engine swaps, so I'm not afraid of mechanical things. Just not gotten that far into a bike before.

Last edited by tlc1976; 06-11-19 at 10:30 AM.
tlc1976 is offline  
Old 06-11-19, 10:35 AM
  #2  
88Tempo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 280
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 15 Posts
This is the site I use most looking up old Schwinn stuff as far as looking up model information. Are you trying to keep it period correct?

http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1981_1990/index.html

Last edited by 88Tempo; 06-11-19 at 03:34 PM.
88Tempo is offline  
Old 06-11-19, 03:04 PM
  #3  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hmm, I get a broken link.

I'd like to keep it stock looking externally, for the most part. But as far as I know, I'm not replacing any external parts.
tlc1976 is offline  
Old 06-11-19, 03:35 PM
  #4  
88Tempo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 280
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 15 Posts
I fixed the link. It takes you to the 80-90 catalogs.
88Tempo is offline  
Old 06-11-19, 05:48 PM
  #5  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 5,027

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 666 Post(s)
Liked 46 Times in 39 Posts
Originally Posted by tlc1976 View Post
Hello. New here. I am the original owner of a Schwinn Woodlands 24" 10 speed that I got new in April 1988. For sitting outside for 31 years it's held up very well, almost no rust on it, but I need to do some work on the headset and crank bearings. I also need to tighten the rear wheel bearings, there is some play there. But it rolls smooth, no improper noises.
Any tips for sourcing the correct parts? Crank is Tracer, rims are Wein Mann, shift mechanism is Shimano.
Wheels, headset, cranks all use standard size bearing balls. Take stuff apart, measure bearings with a harbor freight digital caliper or equal. Go on line or your local bearing supply and buy grade 25 balls in the sizes you need and replace, regrease, adjust. You'll need some special tools like cone wrenches and probably a crank puller (if I recall a Tracer is a cotterless crank) and some marine wheel bearing grease. Might as well replace the chain while you're rehabbing it. Youtube, park tool, RJ the bike guy, Sheldon brown, My ten speeds all good sources of info.
dedhed is offline  
Old 06-12-19, 10:22 AM
  #6  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Wheels, headset, cranks all use standard size bearing balls. Take stuff apart, measure bearings with a harbor freight digital caliper or equal. Go on line or your local bearing supply and buy grade 25 balls in the sizes you need and replace, regrease, adjust. You'll need some special tools like cone wrenches and probably a crank puller (if I recall a Tracer is a cotterless crank) and some marine wheel bearing grease. Might as well replace the chain while you're rehabbing it. Youtube, park tool, RJ the bike guy, Sheldon brown, My ten speeds all good sources of info.
Thanks for the info. I didn't realize they were just standard balls to be replaced. I imagined them as tapered roller bearing assemblies. I do have a good caliper and micrometer.

I'll have to see if I end up needing the crank puller. I have some thin wrenches, thankfully I can make some tools at work too. Like what looks like a 3 notch spanner nut on the non-sprocket side of the crank. Would be better than chewing up the knurl with a pipe wrench.

I rode for a couple hours last night, now the rain is here until at least the end of the weekend. Should have some time to get into it.
tlc1976 is offline  
Old 06-12-19, 12:14 PM
  #7  
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 10,801

Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Wheels, headset, cranks all use standard size bearing balls. Take stuff apart, measure bearings with a harbor freight digital caliper or equal. Go on line or your local bearing supply and buy grade 25 balls in the sizes you need and replace, regrease, adjust. You'll need some special tools like cone wrenches and probably a crank puller (if I recall a Tracer is a cotterless crank) and some marine wheel bearing grease. Might as well replace the chain while you're rehabbing it. Youtube, park tool, RJ the bike guy, Sheldon brown, My ten speeds all good sources of info.
Or just line them up along a ruler.
Four 1/4" balls magically = 1"
sixteen 3/16" balls = 3".
thirty two 5/32" balls = 5"
Bill Kapaun is online now  
Old 06-12-19, 03:14 PM
  #8  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 5,027

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 666 Post(s)
Liked 46 Times in 39 Posts
Originally Posted by tlc1976 View Post
Thanks for the info. I didn't realize they were just standard balls to be replaced. I imagined them as tapered roller bearing assemblies. I do have a good caliper and micrometer..
It's an 80's Schwinn, nothing that exotic, a step above sintered bronze bushings. Honestly you could even reuse the balls, but they're cheap enough I just replace.
dedhed is offline  
Old 06-14-19, 10:26 AM
  #9  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I got the headset apart last night. The top bearing assembly looks ok. The bottom one is completely disintegrated. The cage has just 1 divider left, out of 16 I think. Explains why it was sometimes loose and sometimes not, when all the balls went to one side it would loosen up. Thankfully I can use the top one to see what I need for replacements.

Then I started at the crank. First the crank caps looked good but were extremely brittle from UV, so they came out in pieces. Then I removed the nuts. It has a square crank, and I definitely need the puller to remove the pedal arms.

Looks like I can get a crank puller from the local bike shop tonight for $15. Better than ordering online and waiting.

Years ago I tore down another bike frame and fork I found in scrap, it was in good shape but missing a lot of parts. And I had saved the head and crank bearings and cones and caps, put them in a sealed plastic box. But unfortunately the headset cages aren't the same diameter. Looking online it appears that Schwinn is different from everybody else. Maybe I'll get lucky and the crank bearings match.
tlc1976 is offline  
Old 06-14-19, 08:54 PM
  #10  
JanMM
rebmeM roineS
 
JanMM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Metro Indy, IN
Posts: 15,479

Bikes: RANS V3 ti, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 465 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 19 Posts
You don't have to use caged balls for the headset or bottom bracket. Loose balls work fine, better in some respects. Put in enough to fill, then remove one ball.
__________________
RANS V3 Ti, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
JanMM is offline  
Old 06-14-19, 10:47 PM
  #11  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JanMM View Post
You don't have to use caged balls for the headset or bottom bracket. Loose balls work fine, better in some respects. Put in enough to fill, then remove one ball.
That's great info, thanks! Agreed, less load on each ball, less point load in the cup/cone. Just like how they build the industrial slewing rings where I work.
tlc1976 is offline  
Old 06-17-19, 06:01 AM
  #12  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Got the crank apart. Everything was disintegrated and the balls were just loose in there. Tried to remove the cup on sprocket side but it wouldn't budge. But I was able to clean it up in place. Once I got everything cleaned up it looked pretty good. Turned out my spare set of crank bearings are a perfect fit.

So off to the bike shop to get some bearings for the headset. And while I'm at it, I'll have them remove the freewheel so I can get at the drive side bearing. I tried making a tool to remove it but it wouldn't budge. The rear wheel bearings are just a tad loose so I want to pull those apart and clean and repack them too. Will do the same with the fronts while I am at it. The bearing that came out of the non drive side looked to be in nice shape.
tlc1976 is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 06:04 AM
  #13  
tlc1976
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Northwest Lower Michigan
Posts: 14

Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Woodlands 24"

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Took an additional 2 ft extension on my 18" breaker bar but the freewheel came loose. Wanted to be careful not to bend the spokes. So I pulled apart the freewheel and cleaned and regreased that too. Wheel bearings done, headset bearings done, crank bearings done, new pedals. Should be way better than it was.

Now it's supposed to rain the rest of the week. So maybe I'll work on replacing the cables. They work fine but the jackets look horrible.
tlc1976 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.