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Fuji Track Elite

Old 03-01-18, 10:29 PM
  #101  
Baby Puke
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I'm a big fan, too.
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Old 03-02-18, 04:18 AM
  #102  
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I don't see any reason to switch. You're not going to get any #gainz from it, I don't think.
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Old 03-02-18, 10:51 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by southernfox View Post
I don't see any reason to switch. You're not going to get any #gainz from it, I don't think.
I'll look cooler.

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Old 03-02-18, 11:01 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by sarals View Post
Another thread derail.

All of this talk of a new bike has the effect, as it always does, of causing me to think about (lust after) a new bike. Logic dictates (yes, I am sort of a Trekkie) that my Giant Omnium is a PERFECTLY FINE track bike, in any respect as it relates to me. And, that frame is still raced at very high levels out there (the current W65+ 500 TT WR holder, Jan P., rode one in the record, and still rides it). However, I have just fallen in love (lust, similar) with the Bobby's Dixie Flyer. I see them often, there are a lot of them around Hellyer. Must. Resist. Right?
Nice frame, especially for the money. But I believe the geometry is substantially different from what you have now. If the Giant is a good fit for you, the DF may not be so it's worth investigating that aspect.

Also I think he's got pretty limited stock right now, new production run happening in the near future so you'd probably have to wait a bit anyway.
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Old 03-02-18, 11:21 AM
  #105  
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I'm the king of buying gear that doesn't provide material gains.

The bike frame is one of the lowest on the Benefits/Cost ratio scale. Down there with ceramic bearings almost.

That being said, if it makes you feel good, makes you feel fast, and keeps you engaged and interested in the sport, that's worth a helluva lot.

The brain is an important component to the training and performance mix. It's often overlooked.




I just bought a new Felt TK FRD. I'm pretty much hoping that it scares people into submission on the track and I don't even ever have to get out of the saddle...that's the plan, anyway
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Old 03-02-18, 12:26 PM
  #106  
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@carleton, I knew there was a reason I liked you....
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Old 03-03-18, 06:48 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
I'm the king of buying gear that doesn't provide material gains.

The bike frame is one of the lowest on the Benefits/Cost ratio scale. Down there with ceramic bearings almost.

That being said, if it makes you feel good, makes you feel fast, and keeps you engaged and interested in the sport, that's worth a helluva lot.

The brain is an important component to the training and performance mix. It's often overlooked.




I just bought a new Felt TK FRD. I'm pretty much hoping that it scares people into submission on the track and I don't even ever have to get out of the saddle...that's the plan, anyway
Agree entirely with this. As long as you've got the means, if the frame makes you genuinely excited about/enjoy riding, it'll generally translate to a material improvement in your riding, even if it's not immediately apparent in the results.

I sold my DF4 and picked up a Koga Kimera (of course they announced the new Koga almost immediately afterwards ) and the bike just feels better to ride, even though they've both been ridden at the elite level and are established frames. I find myself looking forward to training/riding it.
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Old 03-18-18, 06:47 PM
  #108  
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Got on the track for the first time today with the new bike. Oh...wow...I love this thing.

Not going to say what event, but we hit an important national team time standard today without even trying. The bike is soooo fast. So happy.
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Old 03-19-18, 09:32 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by southernfox View Post
Got on the track for the first time today with the new bike. Oh...wow...I love this thing.

Not going to say what event, but we hit an important national team time standard today without even trying. The bike is soooo fast. So happy.
Now that is cool!!
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Old 03-23-18, 03:18 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
What is it about Fuji and publishing torque specs? I can find nothing on the Track Elite or my Norcom Straight 1.3 on the internet. Anyone know the correct torque spec for the 5mm bolt on the top-back tube that secures the seat post? It can't be that much, given the mechanism inside. I torqued mine to 3nm and it seems to be holding fine.

But, seriously, do these bike have manuals with any torque specs?
It is 7 nm. In Australia the Norcom comes with a brochure showing the torque specs. It is the identical seatpost set up to the Fuji Track Elite (I have both).
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Old 03-23-18, 06:43 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by sarals View Post
I'll look cooler.

iirc, you're a woman in your 60s? racing track bikes?

not sure there's a way for you to be cooler.

unless you do it holding an electric guitar that is on fire in one hand and the skull of your enemy in the other.
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Old 03-23-18, 08:37 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
unless you do it holding an electric guitar that is on fire in one hand and the skull of your enemy in the other.
This rules.
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Old 03-23-18, 09:00 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
iirc, you're a woman in your 60s? racing track bikes?

not sure there's a way for you to be cooler.

unless you do it holding an electric guitar that is on fire in one hand and the skull of your enemy in the other.


I can try the electric guitar part!
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Old 03-23-18, 09:31 AM
  #114  
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lulling your enemies into a false sense of security

nice
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Old 03-23-18, 03:29 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by thearthurdog View Post
It is 7 nm. In Australia the Norcom comes with a brochure showing the torque specs. It is the identical seatpost set up to the Fuji Track Elite (I have both).
Can you scan that in and attach? I just talked to my Fuji dealer service department here and they said 4-6nm, no more than 6nm. Itís not like the typical collar over seat post mechanism and doesnít require a lot of torque.
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Old 03-23-18, 03:59 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
This rules.
New avatar picture?

Oh, I'd be hated!!
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Old 03-23-18, 06:36 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Can you scan that in and attach? I just talked to my Fuji dealer service department here and they said 4-6nm, no more than 6nm. It’s not like the typical collar over seat post mechanism and doesn’t require a lot of torque.
Done. Can I add that I run two different seatpost / seat combinations on my Fuji Track Elite and swap them out reasonably regularly. I run 7 nm and have had no issues at all.
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Old 03-24-18, 12:00 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by thearthurdog View Post
Done. Can I add that I run two different seatpost / seat combinations on my Fuji Track Elite and swap them out reasonably regularly. I run 7 nm and have had no issues at all.
Awesome. Thanks! Are you swapping the posts/seats out for different race formats? Pursuit vs. mass start, etc.
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Old 03-24-18, 05:25 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Awesome. Thanks! Are you swapping the posts/seats out for different race formats? Pursuit vs. mass start, etc.
Yes exactly, one for IP / TP and one for endurance events like points / scratch / madison.
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Old 03-26-18, 07:46 AM
  #120  
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i bought an extra seatpost for my track elite... although it didn't come with any hardware to mount the saddle. I've gathered the saddle rail clamps themselves are the Ritchey WCS, but I'm not sure what part that connects to (the part that actually connects the WCS to the post) Anyone know if that's a Fuji Specific part?
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Old 03-26-18, 05:11 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
i bought an extra seatpost for my track elite... although it didn't come with any hardware to mount the saddle. I've gathered the saddle rail clamps themselves are the Ritchey WCS, but I'm not sure what part that connects to (the part that actually connects the WCS to the post) Anyone know if that's a Fuji Specific part?
You need all the loose parts on this set -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ritchey-WCS...sAAOSwHYpaM7ir

But have to choose the right "clamps", according to your seat rails material/dimensions.
7x7mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ritchey-WCS...sAAOSwfbBZlKwz

7x9,6mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ritchey-WCS...8AAOSwxIRZ8QhC

Ops... you're talking about the "horizontal rail car"? Have no idea how to get one...
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Old 03-27-18, 04:09 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Clythio View Post

Ops... you're talking about the "horizontal rail car"? Have no idea how to get one...
yeah, I've got the Ritchey setup, but not the rail car. I'm guessing it's specific to Fuji (I know a lot of bikes use the WCS bits, but figured they all use a proprietary rail system to mount it to)
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Old 08-17-18, 06:01 PM
  #123  
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Is anyone using a torque value to tighten the top tube/stem cap bolt on the Fuji Track Elite when changing bars, etc, or are you just doing it by feel? I am just tightening it enough to remove any play in the top tube, and then just a half turn after that. What happens if you keep tightening it? Will it stiffen up the feel quite a bit?
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Old 08-17-18, 06:56 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Is anyone using a torque value to tighten the top tube/stem cap bolt on the Fuji Track Elite when changing bars, etc, or are you just doing it by feel? I am just tightening it enough to remove any play in the top tube, and then just a half turn after that. What happens if you keep tightening it? Will it stiffen up the feel quite a bit?
I always tighten my expander to where when I hold the bike off the ground by the downtube (standing in front of the bike) and pull/push on the fork, it has no play but moves freely when turning the handlebars. (this is in most cases when you start feeling resistance from tightening the bolt) If you keep tightening past that point then turning the bars/fork will fill like it's in a bind/resistance. If you go beyond that point (we're talking some fairly significant effort tightening on an expander like comes in the Track Elites) you run the risk of cracking the steerer. That's very unlikely unless you were actively trying to. Realistically if you overtighten you'll just get to the point that it feels like there's some resistance when you turn the bars.
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Old 08-18-18, 12:14 PM
  #125  
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so these Oval rear wheels on these elites have cog threads on both sides. However, one side has fewer threads and if you put a cog on it, there's not room for a lock ring. I have no idea what's going on here. Can anyone explain? Is that for a different type of cog?
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