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Wolftooth Roadlink experiences?

Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like :The Dirty Kanza". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Wolftooth Roadlink experiences?

Old 06-07-17, 08:49 AM
  #26  
Jarrett2
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
Based on what you wrote however, I still don't see how the Wolf Tooth was the root or exclusive cause of the dropped chain.
Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
I have seen a few 1x setups using the Roadlink(they werent in use, but itd be dumb to have it if it didnt work).
Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Shimano still doesn;t have a proper clutch RD yet plenty run them without chain drops.
YMMV. If it works for you,
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Old 06-07-17, 09:39 AM
  #27  
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Again, my guess is that whomever set up the bike did something wrong or that the bike was experiencing the issues inherent to 1x designs.

Wolf Tooth Components explains their own 1x setups and even use them with short cage derailluers.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...x-gravel-setup

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Old 06-11-17, 11:37 PM
  #28  
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I bought a 2016 Raleigh Tamland 1 on advice of the Corporate discount here. So I bought the bike for $799 + $48 tax. The bike was shipped direct to me from Raleigh. My LBS wanted $1300 for the same bike. I put the bike together sans the front disk caliper as I didn't know how to do that. I took it to my LBS and he finished putting it together for $75. I then went out and climbed my local mt with it which had a 3 mile climb at 7% grade. I thought I was going to die. I then went to another LBS and he put on a 11 x 36 Sram cassette with the road link and a new chain. I then went out and rode the same mt and oh what a difference. Works for me. I did notice that when I did the first test ride that the shifting did seem to jump more/clacking noise and didn's seem as smooth as shifting as the stock 11 x 32 shifting. The LBS did some adjusting and it rides as smooth now as the stock set up.


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Old 06-16-17, 01:35 PM
  #29  
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To be honest, I find the road link concept to be kind of pointless, unless it's just to save $50-$70. Wolftooth also makes the Tanpan, which allows you to pair your shimano road shifters with a shimano mtb shadow+ clutch rear derailleur. Thereby eliminating a lot of the 'slop' aka chain slap you'll get by running a wide range with a standard road derailleur. It's so much better on gravel (and worth saving your frame from chain impacts) that to me it's a no brainer on price.
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Old 06-16-17, 01:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2 View Post
A friend of mine had one installed (unknown to her) by a LBS to accommodate a larger cassette on her 1x setup. It started dropping chains immediately.

I replaced her DR and that thing with a SRAM Apex1 DR and all good since.
This goes back to improper rear derailleur setup (usually b-tension) and establishing correct chainline at the front ring - no more complicated than that. If you hack together a 1X on a bike that was previously running a 2x, then getting the adjustment right is like an art, and no bike shop is going to get it perfect just by a quick tinker. I've been running the wolftooth stuff for ages and never had an issue once it was adjusted correctly.
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Old 06-23-17, 09:37 PM
  #31  
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I'm using a Road Link on my road bike with a 12-40 cassette and 50/34 up front and it works just as intended.

The device does not make up for lack of capacity of the 105 GS but does put the RD in a position to shift onto the 40 tooth cog. I just can't shift a 50/40 combo.
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Old 06-25-17, 09:15 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by XXLHardrock View Post
I'm using a Road Link on my road bike with a 12-40 cassette and 50/34 up front and it works just as intended.

The device does not make up for lack of capacity of the 105 GS but does put the RD in a position to shift onto the 40 tooth cog. I just can't shift a 50/40 combo.
If I'm reading this right, aside from the total chain wrap capacity, you are saying your chain is not long enough to safely shift to the 50/40 combination. I would always cut the chain long enough to accommodate the big/big combination and sacrifice the small/small combination because of the chain wrap limitation.

Neither combination is advisable, but the likelihood of forgetting not to use the big/big combo is much greater and the consequences can be a long walk home followed by an expensive repair. I generally never come anywhere close to using my small/small combination anyway. YMMV.
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Old 06-26-17, 06:48 AM
  #33  
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I've put the Road Link on our tandem in order to use an 11-36 cassette with the etap wifli derailleur and it works great. I now want to put it on my gravel bike with the same wifli derailleur but I'd like to get an 11-40 cassette. That's over the spec by wolftooth but I'd like to know if anyone has done this successfully (or not).
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Old 06-26-17, 07:41 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BNB View Post
I've put the Road Link on our tandem in order to use an 11-36 cassette with the etap wifli derailleur and it works great. I now want to put it on my gravel bike with the same wifli derailleur but I'd like to get an 11-40 cassette. That's over the spec by wolftooth but I'd like to know if anyone has done this successfully (or not).
Tinkering: Attempting the ?Impossible? | Gravel Cyclist: The Gravel Cycling Experience

Tinkering: Attempting the ?Impossible? Part 2 ? Lindarets RoadLink Review | Gravel Cyclist: The Gravel Cycling Experience

Note that Lindaretes = Wolf Tooth.


-Tim-
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Old 06-26-17, 08:19 AM
  #35  
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1x on the cheap suggests no narrow-wide chainring, which would have helped a lot for chain drops. I tried 1x before the advent of narrow-wide, you really need something to keep the chain on. It _usually_ works without, but always falls out at the most inconvenient time. I keep looking at doing 1x on my gravel bikes, and I am not able to get the gearing to work.

I pretty much just stick with SRAM 10 speed because you can use mountain derailleurs with road shifters. Not sure how long that is going to work now that they have messed it up for 11 speed.
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Old 06-26-17, 09:23 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
1x on the cheap suggests no narrow-wide chainring, which would have helped a lot for chain drops. I tried 1x before the advent of narrow-wide, you really need something to keep the chain on. It _usually_ works without, but always falls out at the most inconvenient time. I keep looking at doing 1x on my gravel bikes, and I am not able to get the gearing to work.

I pretty much just stick with SRAM 10 speed because you can use mountain derailleurs with road shifters. Not sure how long that is going to work now that they have messed it up for 11 speed.
Note that Wolftooth does recommend considering a chain guide for some applications to ensure the chain stays on.
"Due to the lack of a clutch mechanism on Shimano road derailleurs, secondary chain retention (front derailleur or chain device) may be needed, especially for rough or off-road use."

SRAM 10 speed MTB rear derailleurs work perfectly with SRAM 11 speed road shifters. Both are Exact Actuation, unlike the 11 speed MTB which are X-Actuation.
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Old 06-26-17, 02:22 PM
  #37  
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Thanks! Looks like I'd need to order a 46 chainring too. Makes sense and I've already learned the cross-chaining happens; usually while oxygen deprived ...

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Old 06-27-17, 02:19 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BNB View Post
cross-chaining happens; usually while oxygen deprived ...
LoL.


-Tim-
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Old 06-27-17, 05:03 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
1x on the cheap suggests no narrow-wide chainring, which would have helped a lot for chain drops. I tried 1x before the advent of narrow-wide, you really need something to keep the chain on. It _usually_ works without, but always falls out at the most inconvenient time. I keep looking at doing 1x on my gravel bikes, and I am not able to get the gearing to work.

I pretty much just stick with SRAM 10 speed because you can use mountain derailleurs with road shifters. Not sure how long that is going to work now that they have messed it up for 11 speed.
a FD as a chain guide is usually a <$5 solution, which is not used most of the time because of vanity IME
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Old 04-18-18, 04:41 AM
  #40  
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Found a post on riding gravel - it sums up my issues exactly. I've had a couple of scary descents with a dropped chain (scratched the hell out of the cranks) and just yesterday managed to get the lower pulley wedged with the chain when it dropped. I'm taking the punt on the roadlink in hope that less B screw adjustment will give more chain tension. Thoughts? Silly idea?

ridinggravel.forumchitchat.com/post/installed-roadlink-having-issues-8117461

I only installed it to give me a little more chain tension as the chain has been dropping off the bottom of the chainring on bumpy roads. Regardless, when I installed the RoadLink, it really didn't change anything as far as shifting or hitting, or losing, any gears.

So my problem is dropping chains - I think mostly because of a lack of spring tension on the RD.
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Old 04-18-18, 08:57 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by darrenh83 View Post
Found a post on riding gravel - it sums up my issues exactly. I've had a couple of scary descents with a dropped chain (scratched the hell out of the cranks) and just yesterday managed to get the lower pulley wedged with the chain when it dropped. I'm taking the punt on the roadlink in hope that less B screw adjustment will give more chain tension. Thoughts? Silly idea?

ridinggravel.forumchitchat.com/post/installed-roadlink-having-issues-8117461
you could try to increase tension by moving the cage pulley, i did that for awhile on a 1x shimano setup

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...icle-section-3
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Old 04-22-18, 07:30 PM
  #42  
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Thanks - that'll be plan B for sure.
For now I've wound the B screw back a few turns as there's still clearance - I've only got a 32

Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
you could try to increase tension by moving the cage pulley, i did that for awhile on a 1x shimano setup
overhaul#article-section-3[/url]
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Old 04-23-18, 11:43 AM
  #43  
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My LBS installed a Deore XT 11-40 on my Jamis Exploit (50/34 up front). All it required was the Road Link ($20) and a slightly longer chain. Pulls through all gears, including big/big (not that you'd wanna do that). Shifting is pretty spot on.
Attached Images
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Old 04-23-18, 01:03 PM
  #44  
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^^ That's crazy right there. I love it.

You are going to surprise a lot of guys when you spin up a wall while seated.

What is it in gear inches?

Hot. 10/10. Would ride.
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Old 04-23-18, 05:50 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by scotch View Post
My LBS installed a Deore XT 11-40 on my Jamis Exploit (50/34 up front). All it required was the Road Link ($20) and a slightly longer chain. Pulls through all gears, including big/big (not that you'd wanna do that). Shifting is pretty spot on.
I have often wondered where the weight of a larger cassette plus compact crank is heavier than a subcompact crank and smaller cassette.
Also, where the cost of a larger cassette and compact crank is compared to a subcompact crank and smaller cassette.

Thats impressive for sure- i have the roadlink shifting an 11-36 and its apparently not even close to its limit looking at that!
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Old 04-24-18, 07:30 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
^^ That's crazy right there. I love it.

You are going to surprise a lot of guys when you spin up a wall while seated.

What is it in gear inches?

Hot. 10/10. Would ride.
Not my bike but with 700x38 tires and 175 cranks it would be 23" on the bottom, 124" on the top. 11-32 would be 29" low, 124" high.
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Old 04-24-18, 11:45 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
I have often wondered where the weight of a larger cassette plus compact crank is heavier than a subcompact crank and smaller cassette.
Also, where the cost of a larger cassette and compact crank is compared to a subcompact crank and smaller cassette.

Thats impressive for sure- i have the roadlink shifting an 11-36 and its apparently not even close to its limit looking at that!
What RD? I've gotten 6800 and 8000 medium cages to work with an 11-36 without a road link
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Old 04-24-18, 03:37 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
What RD? I've gotten 6800 and 8000 medium cages to work with an 11-36 without a road link
I have one connected to a 5800rd.
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Old 04-24-18, 06:00 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
I have one connected to a 5800rd.
Medium cage? Did you attempt without the roadlink first? I've found and others that shimano is very conservative of max cog size, usually at least 4T
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Old 04-24-18, 08:13 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Medium cage? Did you attempt without the roadlink first? I've found and others that shimano is very conservative of max cog size, usually at least 4T
Yeah its a GS model. Couldnt clear the 36t cog. Ive read it sometimes matters how the frame geometry is, whether a too large RD fits or not.

Im thinking about upgrading to the new Ultegra with clutch. Its made to fit 34 so mine should work without the roadlink, and itll reduce possible chainslap.
Downside is the look, but whatever i guess.
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