Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like :The Dirty Kanza". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Why do people want 1x???

Old 01-05-18, 01:15 PM
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1x on a cyclocross bike is great...so much better than 2x, IMHO. It all has to do with dropping chains and simplicity when in a race or training for a race for me. 1x with a chain keeper up front pretty much ensures the chain won't come off when shouldering the bike, placing the bike back on the ground for a run, riding through muddy pitches while shifting. It's just way easier.

I would not like it for road. I never once had a problem with my Ultegra or etap front shifting on the road.
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Old 01-05-18, 01:26 PM
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Cyclocross racing has opted for a single front ring as an option for decades..

Campagnolo has made pairs of guard rings in 4 diameters .. to use chainrings from 42 - 52t.
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Old 01-05-18, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RJM View Post
1x on a cyclocross bike is great...so much better than 2x, IMHO. It all has to do with dropping chains and simplicity when in a race or training for a race for me. 1x with a chain keeper up front pretty much ensures the chain won't come off when shouldering the bike, placing the bike back on the ground for a run, riding through muddy pitches while shifting. It's just way easier.

I would not like it for road. I never once had a problem with my Ultegra or etap front shifting on the road.
This. For gravel I've never had an issue with 2x either, only dropped chains last year on 2x during a few races. Made it through this entire season without a dropped chain on 1x and a clutched RD and chain keeper with lots of crashes.
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Old 01-05-18, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Sora shifters- less click trim positions than higher level STIs.
At least thats how it was a handful of years ago. Not sure if Shimano changed the design.
I think it has more to do with that crank, though Sora front shifters have always been clunky.

I have an Ultegra triple crankset on one bike. The performance is...revelatory. It changed my mind forever about how well a triple can work. Flawless, smooth, amazing shifting, every time.
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Old 01-05-18, 03:32 PM
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Frame flex combined with BB crankset flex can make a huge difference in shifting also.
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Old 01-05-18, 03:32 PM
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In my experience, if anything, the typical smaller jumps between chainrings on triples makes them shift better than doubles. Even a perfectly-smooth 16T upshift takes a moment to resolve as the chain lifts into place. Jumps of 12T and less can feel very snappy by comparison.
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Old 01-05-18, 03:41 PM
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the throw distance also plays a part in shifting.
red/force 105/ultegra never took much to shift.

Sora (9 speed) has a wicked long throw that is harder to get clean shifts with, I have found Apex 2x to be the same way the lever throw is difficult to get a good clean crisp Shift.

one of the many things i love about my di2. hit button and boom I get a Crisp, clean, fast, and perfect shift every time!

I am of the opinion that bad shifts are probably 99% user caused.

Not everyone could drive an manual transmission. I don't think everyone can drive manual shifting bicycles either.
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Old 01-05-18, 03:54 PM
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Last years "Ride of Silence" was An ugly mess of chains, chainrings, and cogs groaning in protest of people shifting under load etc.... Oh well it keeps the bike shops in business. Add lack of chain maintenance by the same people, and you can guarantee they don't do any cable maintenance.

Sticky cables messing with cable tension. makes for bad shifting.

Someone was bad mouthing the brand of their car the other day because it quit running. Close to 100,000 miles and they never did an oil change. Uh yeah totally the brands fault! lol
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Old 01-05-18, 04:32 PM
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I LIKE SMALL CHAIN RINGS.

There. I said it.
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Old 01-05-18, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
In my experience, if anything, the typical smaller jumps between chainrings on triples makes them shift better than doubles. Even a perfectly-smooth 16T upshift takes a moment to resolve as the chain lifts into place. Jumps of 12T and less can feel very snappy by comparison.
Very true. And it gives me the gear range to really tighten the gaps in the cassette.
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Old 01-05-18, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post

Don't blame SRAM for Andy Schleck not knowing how to shift.
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Old 01-06-18, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg View Post
Don't blame SRAM for Andy Schleck not knowing how to shift.
Campagnolo would have included a stern warning saying that only trained and certified riders should attempt to use their equipment.
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Old 01-06-18, 01:20 PM
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SRAM front shifting: *scrape scrape rattle rattle clunk* - shift complete.

Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.
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Old 01-06-18, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
SRAM front shifting: *scrape scrape rattle rattle clunk* - shift complete.

Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.
Does that describe every single SRAM and Shimano FD ever produced?

What about all the different cranksets with varying teeth difference and different shifting "profiles" on the chainring?

1X front shifting is still the best.

(Don't take me seriously)
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Old 01-06-18, 02:54 PM
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I have a gearbox crank-set.. chain ring and crank-arms can turn at different rates or the same rate.
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Old 01-06-18, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Facanh View Post
Does that describe every single SRAM and Shimano FD ever produced?
I think it describes the lack of mechanical ability to set SRAM yaw correctly.
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Old 01-06-18, 06:26 PM
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the issue does not come up with friction shifted fronts if well timed and not forced,
but that even though slight, requires thinking and planning..


engineers took the thinking part away, and increased the market size..
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Old 01-07-18, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev View Post
In my experience, if anything, the typical smaller jumps between chainrings on triples makes them shift better than doubles. Even a perfectly-smooth 16T upshift takes a moment to resolve as the chain lifts into place. Jumps of 12T and less can feel very snappy by comparison.
which is common for gravel/cyclocross setups with 36/46 or 34/46. Lots of euro teams even run 39/46. Shifts are smooth as butter in ideal situations and still work well completely contaminated with mud and/or sand
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Old 01-07-18, 03:56 PM
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so is a 48/32 with Ultegra FD-R8000 going to shift badly?
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Old 01-07-18, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Metieval View Post
so is a 48/32 with Ultegra FD-R8000 going to shift badly?
What do you mean by "badly"? As long as it's adjusted right, and the crankset is well-designed, it should shift smoothly and consistently. Shifts just won't complete as rapidly as they do with tighter-spaced chainrings.
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Old 01-07-18, 04:36 PM
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so non issue then, Nice!
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Old 01-07-18, 06:05 PM
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I have 2 1x bikes (gravel and MTB) and 2 2x bikes (road and fat). The only differences I've seen between 1x and 2x:
1. 1x is simpler, obviously.
2. 2x has small jumps between gears.

Chain retention, gear range and ability to dump a bunch of gear inches quickly are all about the same.

On gravel and MTB, I don't care about super fine gradations of gearing, so 1x works fine. I can't see myself ever using a 2x on an MTB as it's unnecessary. On the road, I definitely prefer a 2x, albeit I rarely use the small ring here in the flat Midwest. I like the 2x on the fattie because for slow snow crawling I like the 22 ring while for summer trails I like the 32.
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Old 01-10-18, 03:58 PM
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How well does a 1X work on a bikepacking bike?

I am thinking about a new bike, but the one I want only comes in a 1X.
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Old 01-11-18, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Sully151 View Post
How well does a 1X work on a bikepacking bike?

I am thinking about a new bike, but the one I want only comes in a 1X.
What is the gear range? Touring typically requires easier gearing since you climb woth more weight. Touring on dirt and gravel makes it that.much more difficult due to resistance.
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Old 01-11-18, 01:39 PM
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I'd love to have the simplicity of 1X and no dropped chains. But the reality is I am too picky about my cadence and that is true if I am on the road or on single track. 1X will need to go to like 14 speed before I would want to switch. My MTB is ancient and still has a triple and I use them all. My cross/gravel bike I am building now will be 2X and my road bike is 2X. And about dropped chains, for me I usually find that the low limit screw on the FD vibrated loose or something and if I drop a chain here or there, a quick tweak fixes that problem.

And I can't believe how well my new 9100 DA FD up shifts, wow.
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