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My new whip (lugged steel content)

Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

My new whip (lugged steel content)

Old 06-27-18, 03:28 PM
  #1  
carlos danger
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My new whip (lugged steel content)

Here is my new good weather commuter. As we all know steel is real. Took me about 5h to assemble it and now its done!

Its a 1x9 with 42 up front. Apex brakes. 130€ shimano wheels. Sora 11-30 cassette. 105 rd. Full length housings. Thomson 40mm stem with reducers down to 1 inch, cane creek levers, xt 9sp shifter. And those with a keen eye will also noticed the stem is slammed lol.










My old commuter had to sacrifice pedals and seatpost/saddle. I'm giving the old one to my dad and he doesn't like those saddles anyway. the old one is an "english 9-speed" except nothing on it is english. Being Ti it rides great. I just hope dad dont motorize it. He has a bad habit of motorizing all his bikes.



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Old 06-27-18, 04:21 PM
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If this is a troll post, the dedication to detail is astounding.
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Old 06-27-18, 07:13 PM
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Interesting shifter placement.
why full housing...weather? If so, why a steel frame?
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Old 06-27-18, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by raisinberry777 View Post
If this is a troll post, the dedication to detail is astounding.
Hahaha!
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Old 06-27-18, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Interesting shifter placement.
why full housing...weather? If so, why a steel frame?
It basically boils down to ease of maintainence and speed if i want to swap stuff out. It also lasts longer. its 5 zipties and everything comes off.
I have many different handlebars to try out. 3 days ago the vision bar was on the lynskey (with discs). Took about 45min to adapt it to the colnago. I even reused the cables. Also I'm not sure about some of the components like the brakes. so if these turn out bad its quick and easy to swap in new ones. the brakes seems good enough though.

I grease and oil all cavities of my frames. this takes a long time. But its pretty good at preventing rust. at least 1,5 h yesterday was spent on greasing stuff.

As you all can see this bike is pretty much only built for practicality: 1x with chainguard, regular pedals, cheap cassette/wheels/chainring, able to shift/brake with gloves/mittens and so on. Its also the first rim braked bike I've owned in 20 years and I had no plans on building up a wheelset, trying it out and then find out that rim brakes sucks (and i can't use it). This whole set cost less than 1 good front hub. And i didn't even have to build them myself this time

I have some mavic upen pro ceramics laying around here. But its like a 10h project to measure/order/build these so it has to wait.
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Old 06-28-18, 07:51 AM
  #6  
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what in the wide wide world of sports....
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Old 06-28-18, 08:39 AM
  #7  
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What happened to those poor poor road frames...
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Old 06-28-18, 08:52 AM
  #8  
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Nice frame.
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Old 06-28-18, 10:57 AM
  #9  
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Today it was time for the 10km service I repacked the hubs with molykote and lubed the mech with teflon spray.
Also the headset needed to bed in and be tightened. And that was it.

Ride report:
I'm comparing this frame to my ti bike since i basically had the exact same parts on it drivetrain and cockpitwise.
Also the weight should be within a few 100g.

Brakes:
These are more gradual in nature than the mech discs. The discs starts powerful and then they are linear.
These ones start a bit weaker and then it builds up. I'm surprised of how good these rim brakes are actually.
Not far off the discs.

Comfort:
The ti bike is like a dampened spring. Quite firm, never harsh. Very comfortable
The colnago is very very similar. Maybe the ti bike is 5% or so springier in the rear.
But its very close. I would not be able to tell the difference blindfolded.

Power delivery and speed.
With the Lynskey I get the feeling that when I really mash hard it responds better. It reacts immediately.
However I have a feeling that this is not in any way measurable. It just feels like that.
With the Colnago I dont get this feeling. It feels like I am able to maintain a high speed easier though.
I'm sure they are just the same though.

On the Lynskey I'm running a tk540 out back, 32hole and 3x both sides, the Colnago has a 24 spoke 2x wheel.
This might be why one feels more responsive than the other, just a theory.

Steering and handling:
With the same handlebar but a 5mm longer stem the Colnago (it also has 5mm or so shorter ETT) feels more suitable
for this handlebar, not by much, just a little bit more predictable and precise. It feels like this handlebar is just
a slightly better fit for this frame. However, I could never get the handlebar this low on the Lynskey though
so that might be the only difference. The Lynskey has a surly disc trucker fork because steel is real

Toe overlap:
none

Paint durability:
Not very good it seems.

All in all these 2 frames ride almost identical.
Very comfortable and nice.
I'd say its a tossup which one looks better if the lynskey wasn't disguised.
One more high tech the other classic and cool.
The lynskeys are very good value considering how cheap you usually can get these.
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Old 06-28-18, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mindcrime View Post
What happened to those poor poor road frames...
They threw in the race towel and turned pro commuter!
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Old 06-28-18, 11:07 AM
  #11  
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Normally I'm all in favor of live and let live regarding bike setups, whatever people enjoy riding then party on.

Normally.
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Old 06-28-18, 11:28 AM
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Trust me, the colango is much happier now than it ever would have been with a regular drop bar on there.
Its even celebrating my 100th post now as we speak. I swear.
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Old 06-28-18, 01:36 PM
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Nice bike! I have to go on record that I wouldn't be a fan of the bullhorn TT bar. Standard drop bar with brifters gives so much more hand positions. Drawback is that the brifters would be more expensive and you wouldn't be using the left one to shift (no front derailleur). Which brings me to the second point. I know 1x9 might have a certain coolness factor, but I'd still prefer 2x9. Then you could get a tighter cassette with smaller tooth sizes between the cogs. Also the front derailleur braze-on doesn't look great without something on it. But maybe I'm becoming more of an old road biker curmudgeon. Anyway, its your bike so ride it like you stole it! And let us know if its true whether red goes faster or not...

Last edited by ptempel; 06-28-18 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 06-28-18, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ptempel View Post
Nice bike! I have to go on record that I wouldn't be a fan of the bullhorn TT bar. Standard drop bar with brifters gives so much more hand positions. Drawback is that the brifters would be more expensive and you wouldn't be using the left one to shift (no front derailleur). Which brings me to the second point. I know 1x9 might have a certain coolness factor, but I'd still prefer 2x9. Then you could get a tighter cassette with smaller tooth sizes between the cogs. Also the front derailleur braze-on doesn't look great without something on it. But maybe I'm becoming more of an old road biker curmudgeon. Anyway, its your bike so ride it like you stole it! And let us know if its true whether red goes faster or not...
I have real dropbars on 2 other bikes. On my lynskey rain commuter and my mtb 26er snow commuter.
I stocked up on 9sp shifters when the market shifted to 10sp. Usually i run them will pull ratio converters to take 8sp cassettes
that i build 6sp cassettes from. I may be alone but I think newer cassettes are to closely spaced. on the 6speeds everything is just perfect.

I went 1x around 10 years ago when i noticed i never use the big ring nor the small one. Also the exposed big ring tore up 3 of my favorite pants
so i made a chainguard out of it instead. i run a 40 or 42 on the snowplow and 42s on the bigwheels. in the beginning i ran a 36 or 38 but i simply wore out
the 11-12-13t too soon.

I kinda like the TT bars. Very good hand position. the up side down north roads are good too. But my favorite bar is nitto rm014 dirt drop. Its the best ergo
of all my bars. but the reach and drop on is pretty massive, and you can only run them in the drops due to their design. So to make them work you need lots of spacers, and a very short stem and i didn't want to put 10cm of spacers on the colnago. Its too pretty.

The vision bar is like riding on the hoods on regular drop bars but slightly better imo (better ergo of the levers and shifter, and the simple fact these are now completely different components so you can manipulate both at the same time). You give up the drops. But its a fair trade for me.
I have around 10 different bars at hand and the vision is up there with the best of them imo.

edit:
I'm not sure the red is faster than the other paint schemes but its a lot more classy than the other master ones.
And it looks much better in real life than all the pics I've seen on the web, including my own.
The decals though?? Well they could have done a better job to be honest. and preferably just skipped them and painted the logos on instead. And maybe shrunk them 50% or so.

I was actually planning on repainting it the first thing i did if it didn't live up to my standards. Then it would have been ferrari red, with black lugs, the fork black with red lugs and the seat/chainstays would be black with red dropouts. This will probably happen sometime in the future when the stock paint is worn enough.

Last edited by carlos danger; 06-28-18 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 06-29-18, 03:00 PM
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tire clearance colnago master

So I thought I should post some pics of the tire clearance of my colnago master. I'm running conti gp4k 25mm and they measure 26mm. When I was researching a lugged frames I was very interested in knowing what tires would fit. And I guess at least 3-4 more people on this very earth will find this interesting.

The fork has about 3mm clearance with these tires.
The chainstays about 5-6mm on the NDS and 7mm on the DS, and at least 40mm to the bb tube.
The seatstay bridge has 6mm exactly (measured), and a lot on the sides, like 12-15mm or so.
The 42t chainring has a clearance of 3mm. Its mounted on a road double in the inner pos and no spacers were used anywhere on the cranks or on the inside the cups.

I'm guessing a measured 26mm is about as big as you want to go up front.
And maybe a real 28mm out back. the gp4k 28mm is 30-31 though in reality. Might not fit.





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Old 06-29-18, 03:55 PM
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As long as my commute wasn't more than 20 miles, I'd take that in a heartbeat - super cool! Would I take it on a weekend group ride? You'd have to pay me.
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Old 06-29-18, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Reynolds View Post
Nice frame.
+1

if he doesn’t modify the frame, I won’t kill him for screwing up a great frameset.
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Old 06-29-18, 04:10 PM
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thank you. i feel much safer now
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Old 06-29-18, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by carlos danger View Post
thank you. i feel much safer now
I think it’s obvious that I wasn’t threatening your life.
Why not just use a DT shifter, or even a bar end?
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Old 06-29-18, 04:35 PM
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I dont have any DT shifters. but I had a few xt and xtrs laying around.
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Old 06-30-18, 12:09 PM
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shot some pics out in the sun today to try to capture the real color. I'd say these pics are quite realistic.



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Old 06-30-18, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by carlos danger View Post
... the exposed big ring tore up 3 of my favorite pants
so i made a chainguard out of it instead.
I just noticed that - coolest chainguard EVER!
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Old 06-30-18, 03:43 PM
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That's a beautiful frameset, but that build makes me puke.
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Old 07-01-18, 02:05 AM
  #24  
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Why didn't you run the rear brake and derailleur cables where they are supposed to go?
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Old 07-01-18, 08:31 AM
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Because I dont like exposed cables nor downtube routing. So I simply don't do it.
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