Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 06-17-19, 10:05 AM
  #20726  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Start hitting the cotters with penetrating oil right away. I hope I'm not jinxing myself here, but I have never experienced the trouble with cotters that I've seen other people here have. I'm thinking this may be due to my system of oiling them a few days before I start a BB service. I take the nut and washer off and fill the well with PB Blaster. Only twice did I have cotters bend so badly that I had to drill and drive them out with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the threaded end will bend slightly. In that case I put the nut on, chuck it up in the bench vise and tap it straight again. It used to be a big tragedy if I wrecked a cotter getting it out. Filing those cheap cotters they sell these days to fit and align the crank arms at the same time is a pest. Now, with some Bike Smith cotters on hand, I don't have to worry about that anymore.
+1 All so true! Was planning on hoisting the bike from the shed rafter and pulling the wheels, oiling the cotters today but pulled a back muscle so... itís wait and see. At least I will begin lubing the cotters.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-17-19, 10:15 AM
  #20727  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by gster View Post
Still Out There

A Raleigh Folder here in Toronto for $100.00


Nice! I like that rack too. Looks higher and more back then the other ones. Those pedals are like what I have. Chrome around the foot blocks. I wonder if the rims are 451.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-17-19, 12:07 PM
  #20728  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,948
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1124 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by usarnie1 View Post
Hello fellow 3 speeders. Last week I found and purchased a 1953 Hercules Royal Prince, that was only 12 miles away from my home. This is my number 3 of 1953 Hercules that I own. Basically, the bike had good bones, so I went all out on its' rejuvenation. Shown below are the before and after photos of the bike.

Many of the front fork bearings were missing, the front tire and tube had a blow out, the front axel bearing races were pitted, the saddle was made in Taiwon, the hand grips were USA made, The chain had 2 links that were frozen, the rear clamp for the chain guard was missing, one of the pedals dust caps was missing, the kick stand was missing and the complete front brake was missing. Since these early 1950s Hercules are so rare, I had to have it!

I put on new Schwalbe tires/tubes, used original Hercules tan saddle, new matching tan hand grips, used Brooks tan leather tool bag, complete early Hercules front brakes, nice used front axel and bearing races, period correct Midland repainted carrying rack, Miller generator light kit with a stem mounted bracket, NOS Hercules pedals, Raleigh logo kick stand, new indicator chain and its' anchor and all new cables. Coming soon will be reproduction Hercules chainguard sticker, tan pannier bags and matching triangle bag to mount in-between the V portion of the frame.



After1


After2
Beautiful bike. Nice work. The brown torpedo grips go well with the saddle and red color. Those really are NOS Hercules pedals. Quite a rare find. Original Herc-O-Matic shifter too.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Likes For BigChief:
Old 06-17-19, 08:58 PM
  #20729  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 15 Posts
Originally Posted by Rollfast View Post
Okay, the wait and involuntary drooling on my desk was worth all that...Welcome, properly broken in Noob!
Thanks!

I'm a little surprised at how rarely this Hercules gets any attention, but, because its not crabon fibre, or titnium, or even hydro formed aluminum, it generally isn't worth a second glance....

I am away from home working in NYC, and I have a sturmey archer folding bike with me, I just put down an hour and a half on the pedals hard, I'd certainly prefer to have my Hercules here, but having a 16" wheeled folder is certainly enough to for me to go turn the cranks hard after work and go to bed happy :-)

Originally Posted by gster View Post
Still Out There

A Raleigh Folder here in Toronto for $100.00


OMG, $100?!?!?!? $100 Canadian?!?!? East Idaho craigslist sucks, stuff like this never comes up :-(

Originally Posted by usarnie1 View Post
Hello fellow 3 speeders. Last week I found and purchased a 1953 Hercules Royal Prince, that was only 12 miles away from my home. This is my number 3 of 1953 Hercules that I own.
Beautiful bike!
jackbombay is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 07:14 AM
  #20730  
arty dave
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 179

Bikes: 40's Speedwell racer, 2 x mid-50's Speedwell Populars, '63 Raleigh DL-1, '82 Repco MTB, '97 Giant Iguana MTB, '99 Dyno Glide deluxe, Schwinn Cruiser Seven, Puch Promenade 3 speed

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by usarnie1 View Post
Hello fellow 3 speeders. Last week I found and purchased a 1953 Hercules Royal Prince, that was only 12 miles away from my home. This is my number 3 of 1953 Hercules that I own. Basically, the bike had good bones, so I went all out on its' rejuvenation. Shown below are the before and after photos of the bike.

Many of the front fork bearings were missing, the front tire and tube had a blow out, the front axel bearing races were pitted, the saddle was made in Taiwon, the hand grips were USA made, The chain had 2 links that were frozen, the rear clamp for the chain guard was missing, one of the pedals dust caps was missing, the kick stand was missing and the complete front brake was missing. Since these early 1950s Hercules are so rare, I had to have it!

I put on new Schwalbe tires/tubes, used original Hercules tan saddle, new matching tan hand grips, used Brooks tan leather tool bag, complete early Hercules front brakes, nice used front axel and bearing races, period correct Midland repainted carrying rack, Miller generator light kit with a stem mounted bracket, NOS Hercules pedals, Raleigh logo kick stand, new indicator chain and its' anchor and all new cables. Coming soon will be reproduction Hercules chainguard sticker, tan pannier bags and matching triangle bag to mount in-between the V portion of the frame.
Very nice! These are one of my favourite grips for roadster and light roadster bikes. They always look the part. I've just visited the US and bought 2 sets of the velo orange rustines grips, that I've been wanting to try for a long time. I think these will also look just as good on 'our' kind of vintage bike.
You really nailed the colour of the Midland rack.
arty dave is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 04:28 PM
  #20731  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
My Raleigh Twenty and I are not having a good day.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 04:55 PM
  #20732  
Pompiere
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 2,463

Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 217 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 7 Posts
I brought this old Hercules back from my dad's yesterday. He got it for $2 at a garage sale several years ago. I am planning to go over it, replace cables and grease bearings, etc. The paint is pretty rough, I'm not sure if it's original or not. The seat and grips were replaced at some point with Dorcy reproduction parts.


1950-something Hercules


Birmingham head badge


Her-cu-matic shifter
Pompiere is online now  
Old 06-18-19, 05:46 PM
  #20733  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Awesome! It looks eager for a clean up. If it has an original shifter, it’s way ahead of the game!
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 05:50 PM
  #20734  
paulb_in_bkln
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 512

Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 265 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Pompiere View Post
I brought this old Hercules back from my dad's yesterday. He got it for $2 at a garage sale several years ago. I am planning to go over it, replace cables and grease bearings, etc. The paint is pretty rough, I'm not sure if it's original or not. The seat and grips were replaced at some point with Dorcy reproduction parts.


1950-something Hercules


Birmingham head badge


Her-cu-matic shifter
Her-cu-matic! I knew someone who's son in law worked for Ronco and he was known in the family as Steve-o-matic.
paulb_in_bkln is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 05:59 PM
  #20735  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts


Iím back, had to go for a ride and cool off.

time to upgrade the rims on my Twenty and regrease the BB turned into a bad time. Using a park tool press the NDS pin came right out. The DS did not budge, just bent over and snapped off. Trying to punch it out with no effect. Looks like it is hung up on the slot ledge. Might have to drill. This after soaking in oil too.

moved on, taped new rims to wheels. Started with the front. All went fine but in the end, the CR18 is not even close to the SA rims. Spokes all too loose for a truing. So it looks like spoke calculating time, new spoke/washer time and more cost..,

iím almost afraid to try and change the 15T cog for a 16T right now. Snap ring might break or fly off who knows where!
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 07:36 PM
  #20736  
ryansu 
Ride.Smile.Repeat
 
ryansu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 1,773

Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 2012 Soma Smoothie, 1986 Schwinn Passage

Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 464 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 33 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Start hitting the cotters with penetrating oil right away. I hope I'm not jinxing myself here, but I have never experienced the trouble with cotters that I've seen other people here have. I'm thinking this may be due to my system of oiling them a few days before I start a BB service. I take the nut and washer off and fill the well with PB Blaster. Only twice did I have cotters bend so badly that I had to drill and drive them out with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the threaded end will bend slightly. In that case I put the nut on, chuck it up in the bench vise and tap it straight again. It used to be a big tragedy if I wrecked a cotter getting it out. Filing those cheap cotters they sell these days to fit and align the crank arms at the same time is a pest. Now, with some Bike Smith cotters on hand, I don't have to worry about that anymore.
After struggling with some 10 speed cotters on Raleigh's, Peugeot's etc I bought a Bike Smith Cotter press, it wasn't cheap but it has yet (knock wood) to fail me. Your method of penetrating oil before service sounds like a best practice @BigChief

ryansu is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 07:54 PM
  #20737  
sykerocker 
Senior Member
 
sykerocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,088

Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 1973 Lambert, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame to be built.

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
OMG, $100?!?!?!? $100 Canadian?!?!? East Idaho craigslist sucks, stuff like this never comes up :-(
Yeah, the last time I saw a Raleigh Twenty in that nice a condition for $100.00, I was working at A.R. Adams and was selling it new. Say, early 1970's.

I think I paid $150.00 for mine, and it wasn't in quite that nice a shape.
__________________
Syke

"No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton
sykerocker is offline  
Old 06-18-19, 09:05 PM
  #20738  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 15 Posts
Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
The DS did not budge, just bent over and snapped off. Trying to punch it out with no effect.
Bigger hammer? Support the bottom side of the pin with a piece of pipe cut to bear against the ground so when you hit the pin with the hammer all the energy goes into the pin and not into compressing tires and the like?
jackbombay is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 02:51 AM
  #20739  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,948
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1124 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
Bigger hammer? Support the bottom side of the pin with a piece of pipe cut to bear against the ground so when you hit the pin with the hammer all the energy goes into the pin and not into compressing tires and the like?
Exactly! Although, I do have a punch set and I know most don't. I think they are essential tools. I have never had a cotter break off like that. Usually they just bend. Well, this saves you the trouble of drilling away the bent part. What I do is center punch the cotter, start with a small drill and work up until the drill is almost as big as the diameter of the cotter hole in the crank. This leaves a centered counter sink in the top of the cotter. Then I drill a clearance hole in a 2x4 and cut it to length so it supports the crank arm against the cement floor. Then using the fattest punch that fits into the counter sink, I drive out the cotter. From the looks of it, you may be able to get away with just supporting the crank arm and driving it through. I like the counter sink because it helps direct all the energy straight through the cotter.
edit: If you don't already have them, I highly recommend new cotters from Mark at BikeSmith. They are the best quality and he custom tapers them to fit Raleigh cranks. On the good side, if you use good cotters and properly install them with the press, you'll never have this problem again.
__________________
Inflate Hard

Last edited by BigChief; 06-19-19 at 03:10 AM.
BigChief is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 05:25 AM
  #20740  
paulb_in_bkln
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 512

Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 265 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post


Iím back, had to go for a ride and cool off.

time to upgrade the rims on my Twenty and regrease the BB turned into a bad time. Using a park tool press the NDS pin came right out. The DS did not budge, just bent over and snapped off. Trying to punch it out with no effect. Looks like it is hung up on the slot ledge. Might have to drill. This after soaking in oil too.

moved on, taped new rims to wheels. Started with the front. All went fine but in the end, the CR18 is not even close to the SA rims. Spokes all too loose for a truing. So it looks like spoke calculating time, new spoke/washer time and more cost..,

iím almost afraid to try and change the 15T cog for a 16T right now. Snap ring might break or fly off who knows where!
I've given up working on these without a cotter press. Too much time, too much frustration, too much un-success. Not that I've bought the Bikesmith one. But my LBS has the older Park tool and the proprietor will let me use it if I bring the bike over, which isn't that convenient either. Eventually, I will have to buy the Bikesmith tool, I know that.
paulb_in_bkln is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 07:48 AM
  #20741  
Ged117
Senior Member
 
Ged117's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 150

Bikes: 1950 Raleigh Superbe, 1977 Peugeot AO8, 1990 Schwinn Voyageur

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Exactly! Although, I do have a punch set and I know most don't. I think they are essential tools. I have never had a cotter break off like that. Usually they just bend. Well, this saves you the trouble of drilling away the bent part. What I do is center punch the cotter, start with a small drill and work up until the drill is almost as big as the diameter of the cotter hole in the crank. This leaves a centered counter sink in the top of the cotter. Then I drill a clearance hole in a 2x4 and cut it to length so it supports the crank arm against the cement floor. Then using the fattest punch that fits into the counter sink, I drive out the cotter. From the looks of it, you may be able to get away with just supporting the crank arm and driving it through. I like the counter sink because it helps direct all the energy straight through the cotter.
edit: If you don't already have them, I highly recommend new cotters from Mark at BikeSmith. They are the best quality and he custom tapers them to fit Raleigh cranks. On the good side, if you use good cotters and properly install them with the press, you'll never have this problem again.
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln View Post
I've given up working on these without a cotter press. Too much time, too much frustration, too much un-success. Not that I've bought the Bikesmith one. But my LBS has the older Park tool and the proprietor will let me use it if I bring the bike over, which isn't that convenient either. Eventually, I will have to buy the Bikesmith tool, I know that.

The Bikesmith cotter press is essential for a headache free disassembly of old three speeds or any other bike with a cottered crank, like my Peugeot. I was done in two minutes after soaking the cotter pins with PB Blaster and using the press. I could have reused the originals, but I decided to put in the cotters that Mark provided. I'll keep the originals for another day. The quality of the 1950 cotters is impressive considering how long they were in the crank.
Ged117 is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 08:47 AM
  #20742  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,948
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1124 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Those circlips that hold the cog on the driver are easy to remove. It's getting them back on that's hard for me. I don't even have a good technique to pass along. It's one of those things I just fight with until I win.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 09:00 AM
  #20743  
mirfi
Senior Member
 
mirfi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 263

Bikes: Vilano Urbana, DownTube FS9, Montaque paratrooper, Nano mini-velo, Motobecane CX, Raleigh 20, MIFA folder, ROG Pony

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Free Raleigh Three Speed, DC area

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...910311657.html

FREE Curb Alert
Bike is FREE! if not gone by Thursday AM, the rubbish men will take it off.
1960s black Raleigh bike with mechanical lever/rod brakes
I put the bike on the curb.
Three speed rear hub.
Parked in shed for the last 40 years.
Hole drilled in frame near the "R" in Raleigh, see pic.
No seat, no fenders, no chain guard
FREE at the curb waiting pickup.
mirfi is offline  
Likes For mirfi:
Old 06-19-19, 11:00 AM
  #20744  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Thanks all! Right now I am ready to drill the counter hole for the punch. Might get a bigger one from my friend to use. Already have the 2/4 with the hole drilled into it. Still loading it up with tri flow and Phil’s.

i’m more upset about the rims not working with the spokes. More downtime for my poor Twenty.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 11:13 AM
  #20745  
Ballenxj
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 618
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 307 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by mirfi View Post
Free Raleigh Three Speed, DC area

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...910311657.html

FREE Curb Alert
Bike is FREE! if not gone by Thursday AM, the rubbish men will take it off.
1960s black Raleigh bike with mechanical lever/rod brakes
I put the bike on the curb.
Three speed rear hub.
Parked in shed for the last 40 years.
Hole drilled in frame near the "R" in Raleigh, see pic.
No seat, no fenders, no chain guard
FREE at the curb waiting pickup.
I hope somebody here picks this up! Looks like a 23" frame as well.
Ballenxj is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 12:18 PM
  #20746  
dweenk 
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 575 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by mirfi View Post
Free Raleigh Three Speed, DC area

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...910311657.html

FREE Curb Alert
Bike is FREE! if not gone by Thursday AM, the rubbish men will take it off.
1960s black Raleigh bike with mechanical lever/rod brakes
I put the bike on the curb.
Three speed rear hub.
Parked in shed for the last 40 years.
Hole drilled in frame near the "R" in Raleigh, see pic.
No seat, no fenders, no chain guard
FREE at the curb waiting pickup.
I am on the Eastern Shore. By the time I got there it would be in the hands of an enthusiast or a scrapper and I know a guy who has a pair of NOS fenders. Bummer.
__________________
"The man who does not read has no advantage over the man who cannot read." ĖMark Twain
dweenk is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 01:12 PM
  #20747  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts


Little oil, drill, punch and repeat.


All nice and clean!


Still ready to do the job after 40 years!
Success! Fighting all the way but the cotter finally came out. All BB parts shiny and free of wear. I found chunks of old grease and a petrified wasp but no sock. The Teflon spray was helping it but new grease is what it needs.

The drill bit stayed mostly in the pin but towards the bottom drifted out into the crank. I can see a little divot out of the wall. Both openings are still round. I will be getting new pins, most likely from Mark.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 02:42 PM
  #20748  
mirfi
Senior Member
 
mirfi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 263

Bikes: Vilano Urbana, DownTube FS9, Montaque paratrooper, Nano mini-velo, Motobecane CX, Raleigh 20, MIFA folder, ROG Pony

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk View Post
I am on the Eastern Shore. By the time I got there it would be in the hands of an enthusiast or a scrapper and I know a guy who has a pair of NOS fenders. Bummer.
I was wondering who I know in the area that could pick it up for me.. But I don't know anybody that lives on that side of DC.
mirfi is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 03:41 PM
  #20749  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Those circlips that hold the cog on the driver are easy to remove. It's getting them back on that's hard for me. I don't even have a good technique to pass along. It's one of those things I just fight with until I win.
Felt like the day was going my way so changed out the 15T for a 17. Easy indeed to get off, getting on is a two thumb hard press job but itís back together.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 06-19-19, 03:47 PM
  #20750  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 7,273

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1241 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
Question for the learned: when I pulled the shifter rod, it was covered in black gunk. Poked a plastic stir stick down there and pulled out some really think muck. The hub has been shifting fine and ticking along but... would it be good to fill the hub with some kerosene or other such fluids and drain the swamp in there before the wheel goes back into action?

Fresh oil used afterwards of course!
3speedslow is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.