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Protips for a new track racer

Old 08-25-16, 02:46 PM
  #76  
gycho77
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
One thought (or a lot of thoughts). A few years ago when I was focusing on the Kilo, I spent a lot of time, energy, and money fretting about aerobars. I bought maybe 6-8 sets, then made another handful of sets by mixing/matching bits from those sets, and even had a custom set built. Come to find out, I was never much of a Kilo rider, no matter what bars I used, hahaha.

That being said, I did learn A LOT about them and I realized that they aren't a simple matter.

Some random thoughts:

- Aerobars are a means to an end. The end being putting your upperbody and arms in a position to either keep you from being a big parachute or move air over you easily. If you don't achieve this, you are receiving no benefit.
- Every time trial does not benefit from the use of aerobars.
- Some riders are faster with certain drop bars than they are on aerobars.
- Most riders (even experienced riders) require a significant amount of time in the bars to feel comfortable riding at race pace. A LOT of mental energy is expended focusing on staying up and steering. While you are doing that, you aren't focusing on your effort as a whole (pacing, breathing, pedaling, etc...)
- A lot of people don't know what the ideal aero position is for them or their event.
- Newer narrow sprint bars can have the rider in an aero position as good as aerobars. Even at the elite level.
- In elite world women's 500M competition, there seems to be a 50/50 split between drop and aero bars.

Anecdotal points:
- I rode the same PB kilo time (a sorry 1:15.x) in both aero bars and narrow drop bars.
- Sky Christoperson (albeit not your normal Masters racer) rode a 1:06 in 35mm Scattos at 2011 Masters Worlds. To put this into perspective. Sky was in the 35-39 group. 1:04 would have been fast enough to win US Elite Kilo. So, if Sky were 10 years younger and riding the same Scattos, he probably could have won elites with his setup. Basically, the bars are fast if you are setup in them correctly.
- I like the 3T system of aerobars as an off-the-rack option. They seem to have the most options and are very modular.
- That being said, my kilo bars of choice were a mix of 3 different aerobar systems

Final Thoughts:

- If I were coaching an athlete for the kilo, if the rider has a killer start, I'd put him on narrow drop bars and focus on having the perfect start and top speed and then making his posture small and aero to be slick through the air afterwards.
I think this will help a lot of newbies
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Old 09-28-16, 10:30 AM
  #77  
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Regarding grip tape:

Originally Posted by Hrothgar42 View Post
I'm using strong v grips on my track bike, and tennis racket overgrip tape on my TT bike, which is sublime. It's very thin, very tacky, and stretchy enough to get a good wrap.
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Old 09-28-16, 11:32 AM
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It's super inexpensive!

Target : Expect More. Pay Less.
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Old 12-20-16, 09:15 PM
  #79  
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Something to consider when shopping around for a new bike.

Originally Posted by Hida Yanra View Post
worth noting for folks doing lots of pursuit-->mass start bar changes, alloy steerer means less fussing with a torque wrench in the infield -
only takes one good ball-up to mess up a steerer tube, and that's a pricey mistake.
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Old 04-26-17, 09:00 PM
  #80  
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Tip I learned after 2 season of racing is that lace up shoes might be cool looking and confortable but at the track you gonna be in n out of your cycling shoes regularly between heat and races. Shoes with boa systems or ratchet make this part easier. I am now keeping my lace-up shoes for road racing and have a pair of lake cx332 exclusivly for track racing.
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Old 04-27-17, 10:15 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Godsight View Post
Tip I learned after 2 season of racing is that lace up shoes might be cool looking and confortable but at the track you gonna be in n out of your cycling shoes regularly between heat and races. Shoes with boa systems or ratchet make this part easier. I am now keeping my lace-up shoes for road racing and have a pair of lake cx332 exclusivly for track racing.

I'll never go back to boa or ratchet. Never.

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Old 04-27-17, 01:28 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Godsight View Post
Tip I learned after 2 season of racing is that lace up shoes might be cool looking and confortable but at the track you gonna be in n out of your cycling shoes regularly between heat and races. Shoes with boa systems or ratchet make this part easier. I am now keeping my lace-up shoes for road racing and have a pair of lake cx332 exclusivly for track racing.
Will you remember to come back and post an update when your boa cord breaks and you have to sit out the rest of the night's racing
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Old 04-27-17, 09:01 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Will you remember to come back and post an update when your boa cord breaks and you have to sit out the rest of the night's racing
For sure. But I am not a sprinter so I probably have less chance of breaking a boa cord than stronger or bigger rider.
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Old 04-27-17, 10:28 PM
  #84  
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BOA spares can be easily ordered now by any consumer. Have a set on hand and you're ready to go. How many of you keep spare laces in your track bag?
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Old 04-28-17, 08:52 AM
  #85  
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I've been thinking as of late that I need a new pair of shoes. My Giro road shoes are two years old, and they show it, but they still work very well. Then again, I (only) make right at 800 watts, maximum. I'm not likely to break the ratchet on those shoes, or need to strap myself to the pedals. I did replace my cleats recently, though.
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Old 05-18-17, 04:40 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Will you remember to come back and post an update when your boa cord breaks and you have to sit out the rest of the night's racing
I have not broke a boa cord yet, but have had it pop out of its hook 4-5 times which is a bit terrifying when you sprint. It was what finally pushed me to get toe straps but ultimately I regret buying shoes with a boa system. If I quit being lazy I may one day do Carleton's trick of converting them to laces.
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Old 05-18-17, 05:10 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by chriskmurray View Post
I have not broke a boa cord yet, but have had it pop out of its hook 4-5 times which is a bit terrifying when you sprint. It was what finally pushed me to get toe straps but ultimately I regret buying shoes with a boa system. If I quit being lazy I may one day do Carleton's trick of converting them to laces.
its funny you guys say this...I had a cord pop out twice yesterday...Just ordered lace-ups.
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Old 07-12-17, 12:22 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by VanceMac View Post
I'll never go back to boa or ratchet. Never.

Originally Posted by chriskmurray View Post
I have not broke a boa cord yet, but have had it pop out of its hook 4-5 times which is a bit terrifying when you sprint. It was what finally pushed me to get toe straps but ultimately I regret buying shoes with a boa system. If I quit being lazy I may one day do Carleton's trick of converting them to laces.
Originally Posted by JuiceWillis View Post
its funny you guys say this...I had a cord pop out twice yesterday...Just ordered lace-ups.
I kept all of this advice in my head as I avoided buying boas this weekend.

I was looking for a new set of shoes and the salesman brought out 4 pair, 2 had boa lacing systems. I said that I didn't even want to consider boas. I expressed my concern about the cord breaking or slipping off. He was like, "Naw...that never happens." Yeah, whatever
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Old 08-03-17, 08:59 AM
  #89  
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For those considering getting roof racks for the car, or if you already have them and you have a garage:

It's easy to come home from a hard track or road workout and be totally exhausted and just drive into your garage as you do every day...then CRACK!




This happens more often than you think. Working in a bike shop in SF, we'd have about 1 customer every 2-3 weeks come in having had this happen.

I figured out a nice way to keep me from doing this.

When I'm loading up my gear on the car, I would stow my garage clicker in the trunk of the car. This won't allow me to drive right into the garage when I get home. It forces me to stop outside of the garage and get out to get the clicker. Then I see the bike on the roof of the car and remember.

Most times, I'm aware that there is a bike on the roof. But, there were one or two times where this method saved me.

Last edited by carleton; 08-03-17 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 08-03-17, 11:30 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
When I'm loading up my gear on the car, I would stow my garage clicker in the trunk of the car. This won't allow me to drive right into the garage when I get home. It forces me to stop outside of the garage and get out to get the clicker.
I did the same thing for a long time. But then my garage filled up with enough stuff being stored that the car usually won't fit anyway. I also put in a keypad for opening the door so I don't have to carry a clicker when I ride and now the portable clickers live in the house full time.
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Old 08-11-17, 06:07 PM
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Another online intro class text- basically the outline and content for the accelerated class at the Velo Sports Center. Go to the bottom of this page where it says "Written Class Material" and click on the + signs to expand the content.
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Old 08-11-17, 07:00 PM
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(I can't recall if I've mentioned this in this thread or not.)

If you have an extra helmet and shoes (with cleats attached), stow them in a small bag in your car. These are the most common things left at home that will keep you from riding that day. You can borrow pumps, chainrings, etc... but not shoes, hahaha. An no one wants to race using the ratty loaner helmets that get passed out during the beginner classes .

Last edited by carleton; 08-11-17 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 08-15-17, 04:29 PM
  #93  
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A spare cleat for your pedals too. Luckily the cleat broke during the warmup at a weekly club race and not a major event, as I couldn't get a spare off anyone that night so couldn't race...
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Old 09-09-17, 11:08 PM
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For new racers looking to buy a set of chainrings, I highly recommend FSA Pro.

https://www.retro-gression.com/colle...rack-chainring

They are high quality solid disc chainrings that will last several seasons. They are by far the best bang-for-the-buck chainrings at $55/each. You can get a complete set of 6 FSA for what you would spend on 2 Zens.

Yes, all of the pros ride Zens, but Zens cost nearly 3x as much (seriously).

Both have the same disc shape which resists flexing (and even bending by stronger riders). Bending is why you don't see Shimano Dura Ace rings being used by big sprinters.



What's the difference?

Zens go through an extra 5 steps where they machine out the rear to literally shave off some weight:

Front:


Rear:


If you are a new racer looking to expand your kit or an experienced racer looking to replace worn chainrings, I highly recommend the FSA Pro. They are very slightly heavier but solid as a rock, last a long time, and are a great value. I've seen them in the pits and on bikes of elite international events.
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Old 09-11-17, 12:50 AM
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Gebhardt chainrings are another quality ring available for very little money. From the likes of bike24, they are just $US43 each. In the modern days of CNC machining and water jets it should be virtually impossible to have modern chainrings that are out of round like in the past.
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Old 09-11-17, 05:44 AM
  #96  
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And the Gebhardt Chainring are available in more size for people that are looking for something bigger than the max 53T that the FSA chainrings are available in.
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Old 11-01-17, 01:38 AM
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Many of you will know this and many will not.

You can get metric allen bolts to replace stripped stem bolts, seat clamp bolts, etc... from Home Depot and other hardware stores. The metric section is limited (in the USA), but what you need is probably there for pennies.

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Old 11-01-17, 01:42 AM
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If you have issues with your cleats moving position or if you are simply worried about it:

- Take a light colored paint pen and trace the outline of your cleats on to the bottom of your shoe. This way you can see if your cleat has moved or not. This also helps with replacing cleats quickly.
- You can remove the cleat and adhere a patch of skateboard grip tape to your shoe (sticky side against the shoe and grit side against the cleat). This will provide much more grip to keep the cleat from twisting if you have high release tension.
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Old 12-03-17, 02:34 PM
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New racer and donít know what to get? Start here with the track essentials kit: https://www.retro-gression.com/produ...essentials-kit

The price is great for wha you get. Iíve ordered from them several times. They are active here on bikeforums.
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Old 12-03-17, 04:05 PM
  #100  
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To go along with Carleton's cleat tracing tip. Practice first. The last time anyobody probably traced something was their handprint in kindergarten. We probably weren't too good at it then, and we've certainly not practiced it since. A millimeter here and there can really throw off the rotation of a cleat. If your cleat sits flush with the shoe, then a paint pen will take care of the outline for you. If not (maybe the interface is undercut), then try with a pencil first.
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