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Carbon bikes and repair stand

Old 10-14-13, 10:00 AM
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Cychologist
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Carbon bikes and repair stand

Question for those of you with carbon bikes and clamping repair stands. Do you clamp to your carbon seat post or use an adapter?

I have an adapter for my Madone, but it doesn't fit my new Domane. Do I need to go ahead and purchase a Bontrager work stand adapter or is that necessary?
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Old 10-14-13, 10:36 AM
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I have an aluminum seat post, so it's not a problem for me.

My experience is that the clamping danger is that the carbon material (and aluminum too) is extraordinarily thin (al bikes ... almost beer can thin) at the center of the top tube where you might be inclined to clamp your bike. Seatposts (at least the ones I am familiar with) are not butted, and not nearly as thin. I've not heard of anyone damaging a seat post with a stand clamp, so I'd feel comfortable just clamping to the seatpost, but being careful about it.

YMMV, of course.
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Old 10-14-13, 10:39 AM
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I have an aero seat post on my Volagi. The Park Stand clamp is shaped to work well with either round or aero posts. Given my 200 lb weight and the amount of seat post extension I'm riding, I am not the least concerned about clamping to the seat post. I would not clamp to the top tube even it it were round (which it isn't).
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Old 10-14-13, 10:44 AM
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I agree with never clamping the top tube. I only clamp the seat on my Madone. The adapter I have is for it's tear shaped seat post, hense my question.
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Old 10-14-13, 11:16 AM
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*writes note to self: go home and take repair stand clamp off top tube*
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Old 10-14-13, 11:35 AM
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My carbon bike has an American Classic seatpost, which is also carbon, but I use the seatpost when clamping my bike in the stand. No damage, no worries.

Rick / OCRR
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Old 10-14-13, 12:11 PM
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C.F. Frame and seat post. So I have an old Knackd Alloy seat post that I replace the C.F.With if it has to go onto a stand.
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Old 10-14-13, 12:15 PM
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the team mechanics seem to prefer the stand that supports the bike from beneath the BB shell
and clamps in place of one of the wheels .

an example like this: http://www.parktool.com/product/supe...e-stand-prs-21

but for situations where its sketchy, LBS has a Park Tool .. that expands like a quill stem, into the seat tube,
to replace the CF seatpost. and then hold that in the stand..

here is the newest version .. http://www.parktool.com/product/inte...be-clamp-isc-4

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-14-13 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 10-14-13, 12:50 PM
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Specialized says to clamp the seat post none of the carbon. Did it yesterday for the first time on the park stand I bought.
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Old 10-14-13, 01:21 PM
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If the seat post doesn't break, bend, crush or, colapse when you sit on the seat, and go over bumps, you aren't going to hurt it by clamping it into a work stand.
If I'm working on an steel frame, i'll still clamp the seat post. But if for some reason that doesn't work(like I'm too lazy to move it so there is enough to clamp), then I'll clamp the top tube. Never hurt one.
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Old 10-14-13, 03:06 PM
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There you see! Yet another problem that us retro grouches don't have to worry about.
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Old 10-14-13, 04:33 PM
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Seat post, always.
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Old 10-14-13, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
There you see! Yet another problem that us retro grouches don't have to worry about.
+1
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Old 10-14-13, 04:51 PM
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I clamp the top tube, but the LBS clamps the seat post.

Don't over tighten. If you hear a creak or crack, it's too late.
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Old 10-14-13, 05:37 PM
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i have been clamping my carbon bikes at the top tube for the last 5 years without problems.
i have to tighten the clamp by turning a screw on my stands. they are not like the bike shops clamps that are spring loaded.
just lightly tighten the tube clamp and you will be fine.
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Old 10-14-13, 05:46 PM
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I clamp both ways.. but when I do the top tube... pretty min pressure (park stand) carbon since in late 90's
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Old 10-14-13, 05:57 PM
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Clamp the seat post, it's easy to do, holds well. I have both types of stands and prefer the clamp one over the Park stand.

J.
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Old 10-14-13, 06:02 PM
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If you're just lubing your chain or threading a cable, a loose clamp on the top tube will be fine. But if you're going to be de-cranking you'd better not be clamped to anything crushable.
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Old 10-14-13, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Dudelsack View Post
*writes note to self: go home and take repair stand clamp off top tube*
+1

But then again, my Tricross is made for rough stuff and is hardly ultra light.
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Old 10-15-13, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikey Mikey View Post
I clamp the top tube, but the LBS clamps the seat post.

Don't over tighten. If you hear a creak or crack, it's too late.
I should also note, that only my fork and seat post are carbon. The rest of the bike is Aluminium--if it were carbon, I'd do the seat post as well and not the top tube.
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Old 10-15-13, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by leob1 View Post
If the seat post doesn't break, bend, crush or, colapse when you sit on the seat, and go over bumps, you aren't going to hurt it by clamping it into a work stand.
If I'm working on an steel frame, i'll still clamp the seat post. But if for some reason that doesn't work(like I'm too lazy to move it so there is enough to clamp), then I'll clamp the top tube. Never hurt one.
Makes me wonder, if the material is so weak, that I need to worry about a clamp, then is it going to be strong enough for a 100kg rider????

Steel frames are not that thick either, but nobody seemed to worry about clamping them. Mind you, if your really concerned, get an old school chromed steel seatpost, and swap posts and clamp that....
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Old 10-15-13, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Wogster View Post
Makes me wonder, if the material is so weak, that I need to worry about a clamp, then is it going to be strong enough for a 100kg rider????

Steel frames are not that thick either, but nobody seemed to worry about clamping them. Mind you, if your really concerned, get an old school chromed steel seatpost, and swap posts and clamp that....
Bicycle frames are primarily designed to be used rather than to be fixed. "Beer canning" is a failure mode that probably won't ever be duplicated while riding.

I have a Nivecrom steel tandem frame that I can feel flex if I squeeze a tube in the center with just my fingers. I wouldn't clamp down on it's tubes either.
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Old 10-15-13, 07:34 AM
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For quickie adjustments/repair, I just hook the saddle nose over the stand's clamp. When I need the bike more stable, I clamp the seatpost. For exstensive work where I'll be rotating the bike and stressing the post, I temporarily replace the carbon seatpost with an old cheap aluminum one.
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Old 10-15-13, 08:46 AM
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I clamp the seat post and with carbon, I simply don't clamp it as tight. (The ability to adjust the clamping force was one of the factors on my "must have" list when shopping for a stand.) Only had one carbon seat post crushed and that was by a bike shop I no longer frequent.
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Old 10-15-13, 08:57 AM
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Fork clamp on a saw horse with a raised block for the BB.
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