Cyclist0108

IRD has what I now wish I had held out for:

IRD Lobo "Adventure" Crankset

24mm spindle, and you can choose whatever chainrings suit you, down to 28T inner ring!

Black or silver-colored.

Marcus_Ti

I held out and got SL-K....even fits in a BSA shell

https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...gfoot-irl.html

Cyclist0108

You like it so far? Do you have to use an FSA BB, or will it fit Shimano's?

Edit: I see what your un-boxing photo says: You have to use the FSA bottom-bracket to avoid voiding the warranty. So I guess that means the Shimano one would work after the FSA one goes south...

Marcus_Ti

Have to use FSAs EVO386 cups. SL-K uses a 30mm spindle (Shimano Hollowtech is 24mm)....386EVO is basically PF30, but with a wider spacing between cups, and FSA managed to engineered it to work in threaded BBs, with internal Di2.


SL-K with the BB is about a full pound lighter than my IRD Defiant sq taper.

Cyclist0108

I gave away my IRD Defiant. I think this new one looks much more promising.


The 24mm spindle would allow me to use my BSA shell with the Di2 wiring in it. I forgot you could squeeze the 30mm in under some circumstances.

Marcus_Ti

Have you tried the 386EVO BB to see if it'll go permit your Di2 wiring?

My Bigfoot rig is a straight bore 68mm shell. If the 386EVO/Di2 setup works in my metal bike, I figure it would work in yours. Found the BB on Amazon for $40 and Prime, went in EZPZ WRT Di2.

Cyclist0108

I probably should have. Now that I spent more on my White Industries crank and bottom bracket than many people spend on their first bike, I figure I should just make it work for now... (which it does, absolutely fine, BTW, but it still bugs me to have regressed to square taper).

Marcus_Ti

Yea, one of my coworkers does master's CX...he joked when he saw my IRD Defiant that he hadn't seen a sq taper in about 10 years.

That was what bugged me about the IRD or Compass or White or Velo Orange....you're pay as much or more for a sq taper as a substantially lighter and stiffer Hollowtech setup. Shoot, the Sugino costs more than the SL-K and is 1/2 pound heavier.

Cyclist0108

What happened to me is my frame-builder wanted to do the install with one of the new White Industries 30mm spindles. He thought he could get it to work with the Di2 wire, and purchased everything from WI and then we found out it didn't quite fit. (My "I told you so" observation wasn't regarded as helpful.) So this made the exchange/refund process easier. I wanted to go with the Sugino 46/30T 24mm option, but we weren't able to.

I guess the moral of the story is to do everything yourself, so then you have only yourself to blame.

I had the IRD Defiant on my Bianchi. It seemed flexy, and I eventually replaced it with an Athena triple (with a 24mm spindle). In retrospect, I think I mixed Japanese and Italian square taper, but the IRD also seemed a bit cheesy, at least on that Bianchi.

Marcus_Ti

Some of those 30mm spindle BBs work with internal Di2 and some don't...looking at Praxis m30 BB, it doesn't have a sleeve between BSA cups so I'm guessing not. Did the White have a sleeve between cups?

Cyclist0108

I don't think so. I think he tried making me one. He really wanted to get it to work.

tomtomtom123

Anyone know if the Sugino OX601D spindle can be shimmed so that the inner chainring is at 40-41mm instead of what I think is normally 39mm? Or can't integrated spindles be shimmed?

That's like adding 2mm to the drive side. Then adding 2mm to the non drive side to keep it symmetric, or will the spindle become too short? Are the 2 sides symmetric to begin with? Shimano specs seems to indicate their cranks 2-3mm shorter on the left side.

Would it be possible to add a bashguard to the outside? Photos seem to show the bolt flange/spider to be sloped on the outer surface, so a bashguard wouldn't be able to sit flat on it, maybe with some spacers inside the bolt counterbore to lift it off the surface?

tomtomtom123

I received a Sugino OX601D. I have a problem with odd dimensions for the counterbore for the pedal washer.

Does anyone know which brand of pedal washers will work with these cranks?

The left side counterbore is 19.8mm diameter and 2.7mm deep, right side is 19.9mm and 1.1mm deep. The washers that came with my pedals are 20.0mm and 1.0mm thick. I installed the right side pedal first and it seemed fine, but when I installed the left side pedal I did not realize that the counterbore was deeper until the 21mm diameter pedal axle gouged out 0.6mm of the edge of the counterbore before the wrench got stuck between the axle and the crank arm, which took a lot of effort to get unstuck.

So I removed both pedals, and also noticed the right side also gouged out 0.1mm around the edge of the counterbore, and the washers got stuck inside both sides, requiring prying to get out.

So I need washers smaller than 19.8mm.



There are only a few brands of pedal washers available locally online, the Truvativ, DMR, and FSA. I read somewhere on a forum that the Truvativ is around 20.5mm so it won't fit, and the others aren't listed with dimensions. Wheels Manufacturing washers are supposed to be 19.8mm and 1.2mm thick, which might work, but can't find them locally.

The deeper left side would require 2 or 3 washers. This also reduces the number of threads engaged between the pedal axle and crank arm.

I've seen some pipe fitting washers for sale online, DIN 7603A which are supposed to come in 14.2 x 17.9mm or 14.2 x 19.9mm, and 1 or 1.5mm thick. But they're usually 99% soft copper or 99% semi-hard aluminum which are 1/3 or 1/4 the strength and hardness of steel.




Regarding the chainline, it appears the inner chainring is already at 40.5mm. The distance between the mounting surface on the flange for the 74 / 110 bolts is about 7.3-7.5mm, or 0.7-1.0mm closer together than on other cranks, so if you want to have a wider spacing, you'd have to shim the inner ring inwards using 8x14mm shims. You can find 100 packs of these shims in 0.1, 0.2, 0.5mm on eBay for around $5. You can then add 24mm diameter shims to the spindle to push the drive side crank out again, I think up to 2mm seems to work. Wheels Manufacturing makes 24mm shims in 0.5 (actually 0.6mm) and 1.0mm thickness, although they're plastic.

The actual q-factor on my set is 147.7mm. Drive side is 73.2mm, non drive side is 74.5mm, a difference of 1.3mm. Don't know if this has something to do with the really deep counterbore for the pedal washer on the left crank.

I also seem to have received the wrong outer chainring, which is only 3mm thin and without a counterbore for the bolt heads. Because the chainring is thin, the gap to the inner chainring is too wide and I can't upshift. If I space the outer ring closer, the bolt heads start rubbing and catching the chain. The chainring appears to be an outer for the XD and Alpina. The shop I bought it from said they would exchange the chainring with another one that has counterbores.

tomtomtom123

Another problem I found with the Sugino BB is the blue thread compound, in dry tape form, shreds up and pieces of it get trapped between the surfaces of the BB and shell with the risk of the BB not seating flat. The tape on the left side fell off during insertion. It took me 4 tries on each side to make sure nothing was trapped, and to remove the broken off bits that got pushed out of the threads.

It would be better to completely remove the blue tape before you try installing the BB. I still use anti-seize paste applied to the threads of the shell. The paste will be pushed inward during assembly I try not to add any to the BB itself because the paste will get pushed outward, although it would be less likely to cause seating problems, but the paste was mixing with the bits of sticky blue thread tape.

tomtomtom123

I attached a bashguard to the outside of the Sugino OX601D.



I cut off a part of the bashguard for the right arm to fit in.
I needed spacers to lift the bashguard off the sloped bolt flanges.
And to give enough clearance to the FD cage.









I used long Truvativ hex bolts. The only one that is long enough is the 14.5mm (12.5mm actual sleeve length below the head). I had almost 2mm of space to the FD cage leftover, so the spacers could have been shorter, except that the Truvativ bolts would have then been too long. It's possible to trim the bolt sleeves but I didn't want to. I ended up with around 1.5mm of protruding sleeve that fits into the bolt holes of the bashguard.



I cut the spacers out from a 10 mm ID x12 mm OD aluminum tube that was laying around. I think it's a soft type, not a hard alloy. The tube cutter leaves a bevel and burrs on the inside, so I had to use a countersink tool, and filed down the ends. It took hours to file down and get the ends parallel. I got them to within 0.05mm. I might also add some threadlocker.



Sugino warns not to add additional parts to their cranks. You would do this at your own risk.



I have encountered another problem. The compression bolt comes loose after 30 minutes riding, and the left arm seems to slip outward a little, because play develops between the spindle and BB cups. Did anyone encounter this problem?

I had the clamping bolts torqued to 16 Nm, tightening each side gradually and alternately, and afterward the compression bolt to 6 Nm pressed against the side of the left arm. The compression bolt did not come with pre-applied threadlocker though. I will probably try applying some.

shelbyfv

This the same crank that's causing you so much trouble? https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ientation.html

Planemaker

Looks like Easton is getting into 46/30 chainrings too.

tomtomtom123

Yes. Some users in this thread posted that they've installed this crank, so I thought I'd ask here to see if they had the same experience.

jlaw

I have been reading this post since it began a year or more ago and waiting for the perfect 46x30 crankset that was both affordable and available. One day I realized that I primarily ride the 39T ring on the triple crankset (50-39-30) that I have on two of my bikes. I decided to experiment by limiting myself to the 39T and 30T rings on those bikes.

I found that I am perfectly happy with a 39-30 crankset. I can cruise at 20 -22 mph without spinning too fast (39-11 combo) and if anything I wanted a climbing gear ratio below the 1:1 that these bikes have.

So, I recently bought a project bike and decided to set it up with the cranks shown in the photo below - SRAM x5 39-26 GXP mountain crankset. The crankset and GXP (68mm english) bottom bracket cost a total of $115.

I used a shimano road front derailleur - works fine. The cassette is 11-32 (10 speed).

This gives me plenty of climbing gears and a bunch of cruising gear ratios that feel just right. The only limit with this is hammering down hill. To reach 30 mph I have to spin at 110 rpm - but how often do I do that?

deepakvrao

Dont MTB cranks have different widths than road cranks? Do they fit road BBs?

jlaw

I am not an expert, but my understanding is that as long as you get the correct BB type and size for the BB shell on your bike, the BB can be installed and will work with a crank made to mate with the particular BB interface.

The SRAM GXP BB that I bought came with two shims that can be placed on the face of the BB shell so that the cranks are slightly more outboard from the centerline of the bike. This is so that the chainline will be in a more favorable orientation for bikes with wider rear drop-out spacings (better shifting). Most mountain bikes have a 135mm rear spacing and most 'modern' road bikes have a 130mm spacing.

If you're interested in knowing more about chainline and 'Q' factor there are many searchable threads on this forum that are very informative.

I didn't install the shims on this road bike frame and the gears shift flawlessly for the full range of the 10 speed cassette - including the small chainring/small cog combination which does not cause the chain to hit the large chainring.

Ballenxj

This is certainly an interesting solution, and one worth keeping in mind for future projects.

Winfried

On a Brompton folding bike, I currently use the following setup:

• Bottom-bracket: JIS square taper Shimano BB-UN55 68x118mm
• Crankset: Stronglight Impact 46/34 BCD 110 mm
• Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra

Since the 46/30T FSA Tempo isn't available with 170mm cranks and the options mentioned above are a bit pricey, I was wondering if it'd be possible to…
1. Get a 50/40/30 triple chainset
2. Remove the 50
3. Replace the 40 with a 46
?

Are there middle 46T chairings, and do you think the whole thing will be narrow enough to fit on a Brompton?

Thank you.

ajp

Wheever