2014 Post Your SS or FG megathread!
#4026
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from a while back. took the Reynolds stickers off and got some not idiot drops.
#4028
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In the midst of my first fixie conversion. Perkins frame (Columbus stamped on the rear dropouts), cinellii head stem and bars; campy seat post and rolls saddle. As you can maybe see from the photos, my chain line looks a bit out. Any tips on how I fix that? I'm searching forums as I go. Installed my first brake today...hope it works!
#4029
Senior Member
that looks really good.
for the chainline you could probably
first i'd try putting the chainring on the inside of the spider, where the little ring used to be. if it hits the chainstay, maybe you can make room by using a smaller chainring.
you could install a bottom bracket with a shorter spindle, but if the edges on the back of the spider hit the chainstay before the chainring gets close you'd have to grind them off.
or you could install a track crank and bottom bracket.
when i built my conversion, i bought singlespeed/track cranks and a bottom bracket, which turned out to have a really bad chainline. so i took some measurements and ordered another, shorter bottom bracket that worked perfectly.
i think sometimes people will run a 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets if their chainline is very slightly off, or very slightly angle their rear wheel in the dropouts to where it kinda aims at the chainring a little. but i dont know about those.
for the chainline you could probably
first i'd try putting the chainring on the inside of the spider, where the little ring used to be. if it hits the chainstay, maybe you can make room by using a smaller chainring.
you could install a bottom bracket with a shorter spindle, but if the edges on the back of the spider hit the chainstay before the chainring gets close you'd have to grind them off.
or you could install a track crank and bottom bracket.
when i built my conversion, i bought singlespeed/track cranks and a bottom bracket, which turned out to have a really bad chainline. so i took some measurements and ordered another, shorter bottom bracket that worked perfectly.
i think sometimes people will run a 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets if their chainline is very slightly off, or very slightly angle their rear wheel in the dropouts to where it kinda aims at the chainring a little. but i dont know about those.
Last edited by bro; 11-23-14 at 04:28 AM.
#4030
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that looks really good.
for the chainline you could probably
-put the chainring on the inside of the spider, where the little ring used to be.
-grind the edges off the back of the spider and get a shorter bottom bracket
-get a track crank and bottom bracket
i think sometimes people will run a 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets if their chainline is very slightly off, or very slightly angle their rear wheel in the dropouts to where it kinda aims at the chainring a little. but i dont know about those.
for the chainline you could probably
-put the chainring on the inside of the spider, where the little ring used to be.
-grind the edges off the back of the spider and get a shorter bottom bracket
-get a track crank and bottom bracket
i think sometimes people will run a 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets if their chainline is very slightly off, or very slightly angle their rear wheel in the dropouts to where it kinda aims at the chainring a little. but i dont know about those.
One I put the chain on loosely, it actually lined up...guess my eyesight is just bad. Just need to put the chain on, so reading up on how to do it.
I've used the original crank, which is 52t, but I'm a bit worried it'll be too big a gear as the rear cog is 16t. If I install the chain, and find it too high, will an 18/20t rear cog likely make enough of a difference?
I should probably start a thread for this...
#4031
Senior Member
ha, nice!
for a 52t up front i'd definitely try a 19t first on the back, for sure. 16 x 52 would probably be too impractical for road riding, hills, accelerations etc. i ran 52x17 for a while on the road but my knees were bugging me and i had trouble going up certain hills, so i switched it to a 19 and it works really well, and i know theres tons of other people that swear by that gear. that or 47x17, which is basically the same exact ratio.
if youre using the original chain, you'll have to get a 3/32" cog, because a 1/8" would be incompatible. you can get chain tools pretty cheap. i even saw one at wal-mart before.
hah, i dont know. i hope we're not derailing this thread too bad.
so far so good man, that frame is really cool.
for a 52t up front i'd definitely try a 19t first on the back, for sure. 16 x 52 would probably be too impractical for road riding, hills, accelerations etc. i ran 52x17 for a while on the road but my knees were bugging me and i had trouble going up certain hills, so i switched it to a 19 and it works really well, and i know theres tons of other people that swear by that gear. that or 47x17, which is basically the same exact ratio.
if youre using the original chain, you'll have to get a 3/32" cog, because a 1/8" would be incompatible. you can get chain tools pretty cheap. i even saw one at wal-mart before.
hah, i dont know. i hope we're not derailing this thread too bad.
so far so good man, that frame is really cool.
Last edited by bro; 11-23-14 at 05:23 AM.
#4032
Senior Member
52x19 is a nice gear ratio, I ran it for awhile. I run 48x18 now and like it even more.
#4033
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I just changed from a 52x16 to a 52x20 and feel much better.
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Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
#4034
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Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it. One more question - I've got the Izumi chain pictured below. I heard/read somewhere that I can install the chain without that masterlink, and it runs smoother than with it. Any thoughts? I've done a search to find some opinion, but got nothin'. Thanks again, it's the final piece, so I'm a little excited/anxious...
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#4036
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you can get a chain tool and install it w/o the masterlink if you like, personally i havent ever used a master link and probably never will, but thats personally. just make sure its solid in there and has enough room to breathe, and you'll be okay. never understood the phrase"theres more than one way to skin a cat". ive never skinned a cat. thank you reeses
#4037
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Master links work just fine, as they are designed to do. If you don't want to use one, you can also do that, however you will end up with a minor pain in the ass and most likely a tight link. It probably won't make much of a practical difference either way, except for when you want to remove your chain.
#4039
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#4040
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#4043
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grey or white?
#4045
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that workbench area is ****ing sexy. is the whole thing mounted "floating" to the wall or does it have legs i dont see?
#4046
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Just finished my first build - I still need to put some bar tape on, and I'm not sure I'll handle the gearing, but...
if anyone notices some glaring piece of stupidity here, please point it out. I don't really know what I'm doing, so chances are I haven't noticed it...
#4048
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Potential? Or did I really screw up? Ignore the lights being on, I had just installed them and was messing around.