Kr00kd

So I'm buying a 735 frameset and im building my own bike, after a year of riding a state. I use it for getting around, to work and such, probably riding 50-75 miles a week. So no long rides, and no track. But I do want the bike to be decent as well.

I'm trying to figure out which parts I need to put money in to. So far I've gathered wheelset, and contact points (bar/tape, pedals/foot retention, saddle).

So considering that is correct I have a few questions, if yall would be so kind.

1. With wheelsets what brands or styles should I be looking for? Light is good right? Less rotational weight?

2. Which pursuit bars would you guys suggest? I've heard nitto mentioned, but their bars are over 100. Not saying it's out of the question, just wondering the differences between a 30 dollar bar and a 100 dollar bar.

3. What is a decent, but not horribly expensive crankset? If I'm spending a lot on contact points, I also would prefer not to drop 200+ on the crankset as well.

4. Seat post and bottom bracket are components that won't have a lot of noticeable effect if I go cheaper, right? What are some cheaper to middle of the road brands and types I should look for here?

5.how important is a quality headset?

I apologize for asking all these questions, I just want to do it right. And there's not a whole lot of information online, or places to look at reviews. So it makes the process, for a newb a hard one. If you want to do it right.

SGMongoose

so basically your asking which parts can you save some of your budget on? i personally (not saying its correct) think anything with a bearing you shouldn't cheap out on. Tho i've never had an expensive bar, seat post, or stem so i could be missing out.

prooftheory

MiloTT

Leukybear 

1. With wheelsets what brands or styles should I be looking for? Light is good right? Less rotational weight?

Yes, you are correct on weight savings and rotational weight.

2. Which pursuit bars would you guys suggest? I've heard nitto mentioned, but their bars are over 100. Not saying it's out of the question, just wondering the differences between a 30 dollar bar and a 100 dollar bar.

Nitto is dirt cheap used if you know where to look and well worth the premium new and used. They make one of the most solid feeling handlebars out there; you can easily feel the difference in quality by simply holding a pair.
Weight savings should only be an after thought with handlebars, you want to pay more attention to the ergonomics of a handlebar's design. The more ergonomic and well designed it is, the more you will enjoy riding your bike.

My favorite pair of nitto bars is their RB-002 compact pursuit bar and that is only $62 new if you get the silver set.

3. What is a decent, but not horribly expensive crankset? If I'm spending a lot on contact points, I also would prefer not to drop 200+ on the crankset as well.

If you want 144 track bcd, get andels or IRD defiants.
If you can look past 144 bcd and rather have a pair of cranks with "newer technology" but questionable advantages, go for sram s300's.
Never the less, full fledged top of the line track cranksets (you know who they are) can be had for cheap on ebay or craigslist secondhand.

4. Seat post and bottom bracket are components that won't have a lot of noticeable effect if I go cheaper, right? What are some cheaper to middle of the road brands and types I should look for here?

Don't cheap out on a bottom bracket, you want one that will last and stay smooth over time.
Weight savings and aesthetics aside, there's nothing wrong with a generic kalloy seatpost.

5.how important is a quality headset?

You actually can't go wrong with any headset for a leader. FSA has basically cornered the market for the type of headset that leader's use and they are one of the most trusted and experienced headset makers.

I apologize for asking all these questions, I just want to do it right. And there's not a whole lot of information online, or places to look at reviews. So it makes the process, for a newb a hard one. If you want to do it right.

You're forgiven.

nightfly

I really like handbuilt wheels with kinda bling-y high flange hubs, but people really like the Wabi wheels sets. They are light and relatively cheap. Formula hubs laced to anything are fine really. Stay away from Deep V's to cut down on weight and stiffness.

You can get good quality bottom brackets and headsets for pretty cheap. No need for Phils and Chris King. Shimano bottom brackets are fine and FSA headsets or similiar.

You can cheap out on seatposts and stems (kalloy and dimensions are good).

Get decent tires but buy them online. You can snag Paselas for $50/set.

Buy decent cogs and chainrings. EAI cogs are great. The cranks themselves probably matter less. Andels, Suginos, whatever.

Craigslist and Ebay are your friends. People buy and sell lots of bike parts.

Good luck.

Night_shift

very solid advice right here.

Had a LBS guy tell me one time, "buy the best frame you can afford." He was obviously trying to up-sell me but there is some truth in what he said. Frame is important, all other stuff can be upgraded over time.

fetz

For bars I'd go with salsa. They have some really nice straight bars and drop downs, I have the cowbell 3 and absolutly love them. Salsa is decently priced. Ive added some jell pads under my tape too so its nice and cushy. They are nice and light. Ive never ridden Nitto, but after my salsa bars I never will.

TenSpeedV2

I always swore off Bontrager and that I would NEVER own or put anything Bontrager on any bike, ever. That was until I got a pair of their Race series bullhorns. I liked them so much that I bought a second pair for my other bike. Picked them up for $25 on their website. Good deals can be had, have some patience, and be prepared to scour the internet and possibly the parts bin at your LBS. You never know what you may find.

D1andonlyDman

Given what you said you want the bike for, I'm wondering why you posted this in Singlespeed & fixed gear, and don't seem to be asking any questions about gearing. My first comment would be, for a general purpose bike that you will be putting 10 miles a day on, you want some gearing. I think a straightforward 2x9 or 2x10 drivetrain would be a place to start.

bbattle

eBay for brakes, handlebars, wheelsets, cranks, chains, etc. Lots of new or slightly used stuff out there. Local swap meets are another good place to find stuff.

I wouldn't try to find the lightest possible wheelset out there; tacoed or warped rims are no fun at all and you'll have to spend more money to replace them. Something like Velocity A23 rims with Shimano hubs and DT Swiss spokes(2x up front, 3x in the rear) will last you a good long time without breaking the bank.

Sugino cranks are a great value and look great, too. Get a Shimano bottom bracket and you're good to go. A road crank with only one chainring will work fine, no need to get a track crankset.

Dont buy the cheapest tires; they tend to be really stiff and hard and so not as much traction. Rolling resistance is higher, too.

If you are lucky, a cheap saddle may work great for you but that hasn't been the case for me. If it hurts to ride, you won't and your money will be wasted on a garage queen.

sickz

spend monies on your drivetrain. specifically cog + lockring (if you're going fixed).

ive yet to see anything which compares to dura ace lock rings in terms of availibility/price.

the pricier the chainring, the more concentric and circular they are (e.g. campy). it's these two properities which directly determine consistent chain tension thru out four rotations of the crank. the track rings (144/151) is where you'll find such fine tolerances manufactured. same applies the crank and cog. (eai or duraace).

regarding the crank concentricity of the crank; cheaply mfg'd cranks have sloppier tolerances. this is reflected in how concentric the 5 mounting holes are to the square taper. a nice ring/cog wont fix a (cheap) out of round crank. if you do skimp here; its better to snag some older shimano road stuff than brand new "origin 8 cranks" or the like.

do feel free to skimp on hubs and wheels. the cheaper stuff is just heavier. in the broad spectrum, that is it. anyone who tells you phil hubs spin smoother than dimension hubs is full of s4!t. how smooth a hub spins is 95% related to the sealed bearing mounted in the hub. phil wood does not manufacturer their own sealed bearings. dont waste your time with cup/cone hubs.

sorry for over elaborating =\ . hope this helps.

SquidPuppet

Dura-Ace is C+C.

TejanoTrackie 

As is Campagnolo Record. There are no smoother running hubs than these when properly lubricated and adjusted.

SquidPuppet

I have two bikes that came with super cheapo OEM Formula hubs. Loose ball C+C made 15 years ago. Butter. It may be psychological too, but I prefer a bearing that I get to decide what is the perfect adjustment. Pedals too.

Flatulentfox

Regarding cheap seatposts, they can be a pain to get adjusted precisely and can slip. You wont necessarily feel a difference riding, but pay attention to the clamp mechanism. The easier to make small adjustments the happier tour butt will be in the long run...

Kr00kd

Wow thanks everyone for the responses.

Does anyone know if leader made a 56cm 735 in 2014? The frameset I was going to buy says it is 56cm 2014 735. But I can't find anything that says they made a 56 last year.

I am coming from a 58cm state bike. I wanted to go a bit smaller and raise the seat post so get a snappier and more responsive frame. So 56cm sounded perfect. I fear 55cm may be too small, as I am 6 foot.

Any 6 foot 55cm riders? And does anyone know if leader made a 735 size 56cm?

Leukybear 

A big +1 to this.
Also people should stop being afraid of loose ball hubs/ bb's for being "not weather-proof" and gluten. Both have been ridden on and eaten for AGES in all kinds of weather with no ill-effects.

stryper

Ebay used bars, seatpost, stem, seat (unless leather), cranks, maybe pedals too.

Oldy but goody cranks are better than new cheap ones: Sugino Mighty Competition Crankset 171 mm Double 42 52T | eBay

nightfly

Artisanal, gluten free, loose bearing hubs are the jam.

SquidPuppet

"Craft" hubs are better.

sickz

i'm right there w/ ya when it comes to the freedom of cup n cone hubs. they'll reward you for investing your time.

steering a rook away from them is more time spent riding.

Leukybear 

There actually is such a thing if you think about it

sickz

yea.. ppl exaggerate .

hairnet

Yer seals are gone, so there's yer problem. Cartridge hubs aren't anymore weather proof, it just depends on the quality of the seal on either style. Cup and cone requires more mindfulness, which may be beyond some people. My MTB hubs are cup'n'cone and they are doing just fine.

prooftheory

I'm still disappointed that the title got changed and ruined a perfectly stupid joke.