What took to remove this bottom bracket?
02-24-20, 02:59 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What took to remove this bottom bracket?
The bike is a 90’s hardrock. There is a lot of play in the BB so I’m gonna replace it. The splines are different sizes. Thanks for the help
02-24-20, 03:33 PM
#3
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
You take the lockring (the round thing with the three square notches on the outer diameter) off with a lock ring wrench. This ad on Amazon shows a typical one, and how it's applied:
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Hea.../dp/B002PTVDP0
No endorsement (or negative comment either) implied. Choose the one that looks best to you.
After removing the lockring, you may be able to unscrew the BB by hand, but if not don't try to use a pipe wrench on the external threads (!). You'll want to get the appropriate BB tool. To do that, clean the crud out of your BB's inside diameter (the place with all the splines) and count, measure, and compare. Of course, if you know your current BB's mfr, then it should be easy.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Hea.../dp/B002PTVDP0
No endorsement (or negative comment either) implied. Choose the one that looks best to you.
After removing the lockring, you may be able to unscrew the BB by hand, but if not don't try to use a pipe wrench on the external threads (!). You'll want to get the appropriate BB tool. To do that, clean the crud out of your BB's inside diameter (the place with all the splines) and count, measure, and compare. Of course, if you know your current BB's mfr, then it should be easy.
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 02-24-20 at 04:31 PM.
02-24-20, 04:51 PM
#4
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
That setup looks weird. Most cartridge-type BBs don't also use a lockring on the drive side. I wonder if someone used the wrong size cartridge (73mm?) in a 68mm shell and added the lockring. At any rate, the advice in the post above should see you through. Be sure to measure the BB shell width before buying the replacement cartridge. Good luck!
Last edited by thumpism; 02-25-20 at 07:55 AM.
02-24-20, 04:57 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Mateo,Ca.
Posts: 3,987
Bikes: TRIMMED DOWN THE HERD
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1092 Post(s)
Liked 936 Times
in
601 Posts
That's a mish-mash right there. Like thumpism said, it's a combo of a cartridge and a lockring. Hmmmm.....
02-24-20, 05:50 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It is strange brew this one. It looks like a Shimano 20 tooth tool would fit with the larger splines spanning 2 teeth each. Stranger still is the lock ring holds on a plate that the FD is mounted on. I figured this was standard practice for specialized in regards to keeping production costs down. I’d leave it if there wasn’t so much play in the spindle
02-24-20, 06:26 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,071
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4199 Post(s)
Liked 3,851 Times
in
2,301 Posts
Actually this splined cup with lockring is relatively common in the low cost end of our business. I personally dislike this set up. Not so much because of the low grade of the parts but adjusting the BB preload with the left arm attached is a royal pain to do. I'll sometimes use a Park SPA-... wedged up between the cup and the arm's inner face then try expanding the tool while turning it and hope the cup follows the tool. If a complete clean and grease of the BB was going to happen then removing the LH arm during disassembly and doing the final adjustment before reattaching the LH arm is a no brainer. I can't think of a splined tool cup that the common "Shimano splined tool" didn't fit. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
