BBRight Frame - do I run Dura Ace crank with adapter cups or Rotor 3D+
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BBRight Frame - do I run Dura Ace crank with adapter cups or Rotor 3D+
Cervelo S5 with BBRight frame PF30 bb
I have the option of running a Dura Ace 7900 crankset with Enduro Adapter Cups (both of which I own)
Or - purchasing a Rotor 3D+ crankset which should be the best crank I can get to run on the frame and bottom bracket without spacers etc...
Will I notice a performance difference between either of these two setups? Not too keen on running adapter cups to make a Shimano crank work on a PF30 bb - but would make the switch to Rotor if there really will be a difference in performance (even a slight one)
Thanks.
I have the option of running a Dura Ace 7900 crankset with Enduro Adapter Cups (both of which I own)
Or - purchasing a Rotor 3D+ crankset which should be the best crank I can get to run on the frame and bottom bracket without spacers etc...
Will I notice a performance difference between either of these two setups? Not too keen on running adapter cups to make a Shimano crank work on a PF30 bb - but would make the switch to Rotor if there really will be a difference in performance (even a slight one)
Thanks.
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There are thousands of DA cranks running every config of 30mm press fit BB with spacers and just as many happy riders.
Yes, you could go for the long spindle Rotor 3D+ but if you have everything, bolt it together and ride it and save your money.
DA cranks are at the top of the food chain with or without spacers.
Most important thing is Loctite your BB30 bearings in place and make sure you snug down the preload of your DA crank with the little black thumbwheel prior to tightening the pinch bolts. It won't make a peep and no you wouldn't notice any difference if spending 500 bux min to convert.
HTH
Yes, you could go for the long spindle Rotor 3D+ but if you have everything, bolt it together and ride it and save your money.
DA cranks are at the top of the food chain with or without spacers.
Most important thing is Loctite your BB30 bearings in place and make sure you snug down the preload of your DA crank with the little black thumbwheel prior to tightening the pinch bolts. It won't make a peep and no you wouldn't notice any difference if spending 500 bux min to convert.
HTH
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There won't be a performance difference. I like Q-rings, which made the choice easy for me.
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Its not going to win awards for the best looking but absolutely nothing wrong with the DA crankset when it comes down to shifting performance. Rotor has a 4624 pressfit bottom bracket; the bearings are sized to accommodate 24mm spindled cranksets on pressfit applications such as PF30, BBright.
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And personally, I think the DA cranks look fine; it's the ones below Ultegra I think are ugly. And anything FSA ever.
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I just switched back to a DA crank on my R5 after using an SLK Light BBRight crank where the pedal threads ground out. It works fine. The only thing was that when they originally installed it, the left crank arm was really close to the frame. It was probably not actually touching, but it bugged me, and I worried about sand or grit getting in there. The mechanic was able to add another spacer so that there is a little bit of a gap and it doesn't look like it's rubbing all the time.
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I would rather the DA crank because it is a better crank. The S5 with Bbright squeaks like a mofo after a while, though. With the Rotor crank, it probably won't shift as well, but you have an inexpensive option of adding a Power2Max spider pretty cheaply when and if the time comes, so that is also another advantage. Since you already own the 7900 crank, I would go that route, but you'll probably get pissed off and buy the rotor when that baby starts squeaking and you can't get rid of it, lol.
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I would rather the DA crank because it is a better crank. The S5 with Bbright squeaks like a mofo after a while, though. With the Rotor crank, it probably won't shift as well, but you have an inexpensive option of adding a Power2Max spider pretty cheaply when and if the time comes, so that is also another advantage. Since you already own the 7900 crank, I would go that route, but you'll probably get pissed off and buy the rotor when that baby starts squeaking and you can't get rid of it, lol.
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That's fine, but if they squeak and you can't get rid of it, it's still a problem. Part of good design is trying to make something as idiot-proof as possible.
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A Ferrari will squeak as well if you run it without oil...at least for a while until it seizes.
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I think you will see Shimano step up with different BB options for the DA crank moving forward.
To me aside from surmounting the 24>30mm diameter issue, the DA crank is the best crank on the market. Just my opinon...universal 4 arm spider that will fit different chainring sizes...but most importantly...the wonderful dual pinch bolt left crank arm with adjustable mechanical preload...a delight to install and service really.
Last edited by Campag4life; 03-22-14 at 06:49 AM.
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No...its your problem. Don't project it onto others. Thousands of happy BBright owners with DA. Can either run it with Rotor bracket as primo suggested or wheel mfg spacers with BB30 bearings. Either solution is very good and it won't squeak if done right.
A Ferrari will squeak as well if you run it without oil...at least for a while until it seizes.
A Ferrari will squeak as well if you run it without oil...at least for a while until it seizes.
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Agree. I go to a LBS which is excellent. They build and service almost nothing but high end bikes and lots of BB30 setups. I ask customers when I'm there as well as mechanics and squeaking is nonexistent for them. So proper setup is key
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I have been running DA crank on my S5 with no issues. No noise at all.
Last edited by v70cat; 03-22-14 at 03:51 PM.
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no. . . It's not my problem, because mine doesn't squeak. Don't make assumptions. And, I don't run a DA crank, but an Elsa, with the wheel mfg adapter. There are many out there who are not happy, and maybe can't find someone who can "do it right" for them, who knows, but they aren't happy, and they spent a lot of money. I've also driven a few squeaky Ferraris. They had plenty of oil in them. Now, I'm going to treat you like my 6 year old son, and am going to stop responding to your temper tantrums.
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Cervelo S5 BBright Crank Squeaks
You have established your problem isn't just with squeaks...you have other issues a well it appears. Of course maybe you did leave your computer on and I am in fact responding to your 6 year old son. Would make more sense. Squeak...squeak...squeak. Geee. I wonder what causes that? Those darn squeaks. Anybody have any oil?
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Its because the guy(s) installing it don't have a clue. BBright is basically a stretched shell...79mm wide version of PF30 which is ubiquitous in the industry. Likely the spacers added to shim the 30mm bearing ID to 24mm DA crank OD...or equivalent...if you are running a 24mm spindle crank has nothing to do with your squeaking. Even if Cervelo doesn't spec Loctite 641 for their BBright, many have quieted BBright with Loctite. If you don't wrench then finding somebody who knows what they are doing is invaluable if you like to ride a high end bike like a S5 and good wrenches unlike BBright and PF30 are not ubiquitous.