bulldog1935

I would put a B17 on that bike.
I know of seatpost bolts that use 4mm (Thomson), 5mm, and 6mm (Nitto, Campy) allen wrenches, so you're going to have test it.

TheChosenOne

Thanks. Any other opinions on which seat would be appreciated. I gotta buy within the next few hours to get free next day shipping. I just hope Home Depot has some Allen keys lying around I can use.

cbrstar

I'm not sure if any ones suggested this, but you can get padded bike shorts

Machka 

Go with the B17 ... it's the basic one and probably the easiest to break in.

And I don't understand the questions about the Allen Key. You should have a set of them as part of your cycling tool kit. Pick the one that fits.

Five dollars:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Met...0PCN/204153257

bulldog1935

backing up this much.

For me, I would put a B17 on that bike. While I'm not quite lean and racy, I obviously ride the miles.

Might be different for you. And we really don't know enough about you to answer this.
If you consider yourself significantly overweight, maybe rotund, I would definitely go for the B67.
One more to confuse the issue, the Flyer is the B17 shape with the springs from the B67.
Here's a good article you might want to review - https://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2009/...ng-system.html

Here's a quote from the article that seems to apply to the bike:
For leaned-forward riding: If you are riding in a forward-leaning position so that your saddle is right at or above the level or your handlebars, in my opinion there are only two Brooks saddles to choose from unless you are a very aggressive cyclist: the B17 and the Flyer. These are in fact the same saddle, only the Flyer has springs and the B17 does not.

Chuck Naill

Raising the nose of the saddle to keep from sliding forward ended my problems.

Jeff Neese

+1, in general.

Common beginners mistake is if they feel pressure in front, they lower the nose of the saddle. (Makes sense in theory). But that makes you slide forward, and makes the problem worse. Then people give up and say "this saddle is not comfortable."

Many (if not most) saddles are more comfortable with the nose higher than the seat but of course each saddle and rider combination is unique. Carry an allen wrench on your first few hundred miles.

Jeff Neese

Your original post asked the same question - which saddle should I buy? And then you got a whole lot of good information and opinions that basically add up to "nobody can tell you that". Some members came right out and said it.

But now after reading all of these informed responses, you're back with the same question. Nobody can tell you which is the better saddle for you.

Furthermore, you are considering very expensive saddles, but are talking about buying an allen wrench and then returning it when you're done? Has this whole thread been a troll?

Chuck Naill

Thanks for the confirmation. I am embarrassed to say I suffered for several years before a rider suggested I raise the nose a bit...like night and day. I had been told that once my legs got stronger the pain would go away. I was told to get a padded saddle. When I got the Sutra with the Brooks saddle and finding it so uncomfortable I was asking myself why so many love this saddle.

TheChosenOne

I received the black B17 from Amazon today. I haven't tested it out yet but the stickers holding the Brooks box together on both ends was opened and only the saddle, proofhide and the tool to adjust the saddle was inside. I heard we also get a newspaper in the box. Should I return it back to Amazon? The missing, or should I say stolen, newspaper probably has some good info on it but at the same time it's just a paper with info on it that might be a good read but not the end of the world. The part that gets me is it was removed on purpose and Amazon advertising the saddle as brand new but if people have opened the seal to the box, stolen the newspaper and possibly used by someone else and repackaged, I wouldn't want it. I have to assume it is used because of the broken seal.

MRT2

No, I wouldn't send it back.

MikeinFL

if you try it for the proper amount of time, and still have discomfort and want to try something radical, "realseat" is a different type of noseless that's like sitting on a lawn chair. google it

MikeinFL

yes but it's the nose that I want to keep off my crotch. When I tilt it down, you slide forward too easy. Someone out there needs to invent a noseless that doesn't make you slide or sit forward and maintains full control.

I'm thinking of a design for a noseless that has stability handles on the outside of the legs, and a firm spongy gel seat that's not flat but has dozens of bumps or 'fingers' for sitting on, as this would prevent butt fatigue by moving sitting position 1 inch or so

TheChosenOne

Yeah I am too lazy to send it back just for a missing new paper. The seal to the box was broken but the saddle was tied down with the plastic cable thing to the cardboard box as if it were new. It could be new or it could be slightly used and they repackaged it. Whatever, I originally paid $98.90 for it including tax but got a 20% refund of $19.98 from Amazon so in the end I paid $78.92 for it. I'm assuming that's a good deal. If someone got a scan of that newspaper I'd appreciate it if someone can post it here. I like to read things on new stuff I buy.

Machka 

????

You got the saddle, proofide and saddle wrench. What more do you want?

If you want to read the Brooks Bugle, read it here: https://www.brooksengland.com/en_uk/the-bugle-magazine


(Are you having us on with all this about saddle comfort, the allen key and the Brooks Bugle?)

Chuck Naill

Raise the nose so that you cannot slide forward. This keeps your butt on the flat surface of the Brooks. a flat or downward sloping nose is what's causing you to slide forward. I slide forward on a level saddle. Just give it a try and let us know if it helps.

TheChosenOne

To everyone who recommended the Brooks B17, you're a life saver! I just rode my bike for one hour and it would be my 4th time riding my bike. I went to the same roads I rode in my previous rides including roads/bike lanes with 2-3 inch bumps from the ground. Obviously it was still super bumpy when riding over the bumps but I felt ZERO pain and ZERO discomfort at the end of my ride. The difference of how I felt is like day and night. I can now see what a good quality saddle can do for someone with a virgin cycle butt or someone who haven't cycled since forever but I am certain companies put terrible quality stock saddles on their bikes hoping people would spend more money to buy better saddles. Anyways thanks again guys. I'll ride my bike a lot more now. And to whoever reads this, trust me it is worth spending money on a good saddle if you got the same butt pain problems like I did. I would definitely recommend the Brooks B17 but other suggestions in this topic would probably be great too.

TimothyH

I know lots of guys like them and I'm glad the OP got a saddle he likes but man, those brooks are some ugly saddles.

-Tim-

10 Wheels

https://www.google.com/search?q=Old+...B5BYkQ_AUIBigB

Gweedo1

I must not have a "Brooks" butt, either that or those who fawn over them don't move in their saddles *at any time* during their 150 mile painless rides.

I sat on a bike with one and could feel nothing but the hard, steel rail/ridge at the back of the saddle if I slid towards the rear of the saddle which I often due when riding, even hanging my behind "off" as it were, the rear of the saddle.

How the heck can you live with that steel ridge/rail under the leather? Are you motionless in your Brooks?

I need a saddle that allows me to slide back and forth, not one that "locks me in" to one position, so that counts the Brooks or any "suspended" saddle out afaik.

And "no" to the original question.

fietsbob

Can we summarize, there may be no instant comfort cure , other than buying a recumbent.. ?

AdvXtrm

I tried about 8 or so different seats. I finally settled on this one as the most ergonomically correct, including for my man-parts.
Selle Royal - Men's Respiro Moderate

I also installed this suspension seat-post, and I can tell you this combination has been amazing for me. The seat practically disappears beneath you, and it literally feels like you're riding on air, with absolutely zero hot-spots or pressure points at all. Discomfort simply no-longer exists with this setup for me.
Suntour - NCX P12 Suspension Seat-post

rekmeyata

It depends on which one you buy depends on how long it will last, the X series uses the thickest leather, Truleather is sturdier than their Watershed leather, and white stretches more than the other colors (not sure why white is that way but reviewers said that is the case). Truleather does take longer to break in than Watershed, but that's ok if you want a saddle to last longer, supposedly (though I would probably dispute this since every saddle I've ever had in over 40 years required breakin, but I digest...) the Watershed is comfortable right out of the box instead of waiting about 200 to 500 miles for breakin like the Truleather, but that comfort comes at a cost of longevity. My opinion is that even if you get on the Selle Anatomica web site and they recommend the T saddle for a lightweight person under 160 is not to go with that advice and go with the X saddle; if a person is say 145 or less that you get the X but go with the Watershed to make the saddle more comfortable, break in a bit quicker, yet it will last longer.

Also I find that with owners of Brooks saddles (which I can only assume this would be true with any leather saddle) that some have tendency to do two things, apply gunk like Proofide to liberally and too often which softens the leather too much but it does allow the saddle to break in quick but again at the cost of durability. I rarely use Proofide, in fact I didn't use it all for break in which goes against Brooks instructions; in 14 years or so I owned my oldest Brooks, a B17, I've only used Proofide 5 times, and not really sure if that was necessary! I use mostly neutral Kiwi paste shoe polish, neutral so it doesn't stain my shorts some weird color like brown so it looks like I had an accident while riding!

The other issue a lot of owners do is to be adjusting their spanner nut to frequently and to tight. The instructions say a 1/4th of a turn every 6 months, I've only had to turn mine about an 1/8th of a turn about once every 2 to 3 years, initially after I rode it for about 800 miles I had to adjust it about a 1/4th of a turn, then about another 800 miles it was just an 1/8th of a turn. You only turn the spanner enough to cause it not to be loose. In this respect after time the sides may flair out, mine haven't but some do, you drill holes (which you can find out how to do this on Youtube) and then lace the holes to bring the flair back in which in turn tightens the saddle. As you tighten the saddle up over a long period of time you have to also adjust the saddle so that the rear of the saddle less than a 1/4th of inch higher than the middle of the saddle, when doing this don't pay attention to the fact that the nose will end up getting higher.

Of course all that which I said above is based on my body weight of 160 to 170 over that time period I owed a B17 and Swift for about 2 years less, a heavier person will obviously make the saddle sag a bit quicker, but again that person needs not to adjust the spanner nut as often as most do; and the reverse is true for a lighter person. If done correctly these leather saddles can last over 150,000 miles according to many on various forums, I only have roughly 30k on the B and roughly 10k on the Swift, but I ride other bikes with different saddles so the leather saddles don't get used all the time.

Having said all of that, and having been on many saddles no saddle will disappear under you especially as the miles pile on. You do have to take measures to make sure you get the correct saddle width which in today's world most LBS have ways to measure your sit bones or you can do it yourself by sitting on a block of styrofoam while leaning forward as you would on your bike, let the bones settle in then measure the indentations on the foam. Also a rider needs to rise up off the saddle for at least a couple of minutes every 15 to 20 minutes to help prolong the supposedly disappearing saddle from appearing.

Maelochs

"Is it possible to ride a bike with ZERO pain and discomfort around the butt region?" said Rydabent, never.

No matter how good a saddle I have always found that I need to stand up occasionally to make sure everything is fed and oxygenated. of course, I need to do the same thing about as often while sitting at my desk, so it never bothered me.

kickstart

Corrected for accuracy. All depends on what kind of bike one is riding. I wouldn't do it on my road, or trekking bike, but I've done close to 100 miles on my Dutch and English roadsters while wearing jeans without issue. Riding position and saddle...if correctly matched... make a huge difference in what will work regardless of what one wears.