Road bike with straight handle bars
12-21-23, 09:32 AM
#26
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I have never been a fan of drop bars, and now at age 70 even less so. I have one remaining drop bar bike, and I am thinking I will either get rid of it or convert it so some kind of flat or swept bar arrangement.
It is actually a cross bike, so fairly relaxed geometry and clearance for large tires, so I think it will work.
It is actually a cross bike, so fairly relaxed geometry and clearance for large tires, so I think it will work.
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12-21-23, 10:48 AM
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I have swapped out drop bars for the VO Postino on a few bikes. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ndlebar-22-2mm
Not entirely flat, somewhat swept back - I find that they provide a somewhat more ergo feel than straighter flat bars.
Not entirely flat, somewhat swept back - I find that they provide a somewhat more ergo feel than straighter flat bars.
12-21-23, 02:21 PM
#28
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One thing I've been guilty of in the past is taking a perfectdly good bike and altering it to be something else, and in the process spending more money that it would've cost to just get the bike I wanted. Converting road bars to flat bars might be in that category. New bars, stem, shifters... then worrying about whether the derailleurs are compatible with the new shifters... I mean, if you've already got the parts in your shop, it'd be OK; but maybe getting an N+1 is justified here.
12-21-23, 07:46 PM
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One thing I've been guilty of in the past is taking a perfectdly good bike and altering it to be something else, and in the process spending more money that it would've cost to just get the bike I wanted. Converting road bars to flat bars might be in that category. New bars, stem, shifters... then worrying about whether the derailleurs are compatible with the new shifters... I mean, if you've already got the parts in your shop, it'd be OK; but maybe getting an N+1 is justified here.
This scheme lets me keep the Campy brake levers and I only have to spend $15 for the additional inline levers (not strictly necessary, but I think a good idea) and a bullhorn track handlebar. I'd think this would work well for shifters integrated with brake levers as well. Please ignore the right side cable routing. I cut a cable too short. Besides this is mostly a proof of concept. I'll take the bike on a ride tomorrow and see what I think. Seemed good zipping around the neighborhood.
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12-21-23, 11:50 PM
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The OP could go for any sort of bar and a full clip-on aero-bar set-up with arm rests, which might allow him to take all his weight off his hands at times. I don't know a lot about RA but for a while I had arthritis symptoms in my shoulders and taking weight off them was a positive.
12-22-23, 08:50 AM
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Just for the sake of clarity, it's not necessary to go all wacky with odd bars and vintage bar ends in order to get additional hand positions on flat bars. Rick linked to a couple of flat bars with built-in extensions, but there are also at least a couple of "inside bar ends," e.g. from SQ Labs and SpirGrips, that can be added to a flat bar to easily add another handhold.
I use SQ Labs Innerbarends quite happily in a comparatively conservative setup:
It allows me to "get narrow" and close up that box between my arms and in front of my chest, to the extent that it really feels faster and so I use it quite a lot for open road cruising. I often ride dirt roads on the pictured setup as well, and the Innerbarends are not spaced so narrowly as to make for sketchy control on those roads.
These are the basic 410 models which weigh in at 110g or so, but there is a superlight, carbon fiber model 411R, that weigh a scant 40g. I actually have a pair of the 411R I've never used; if anyone is interested to buy them, message me.
I use SQ Labs Innerbarends quite happily in a comparatively conservative setup:
It allows me to "get narrow" and close up that box between my arms and in front of my chest, to the extent that it really feels faster and so I use it quite a lot for open road cruising. I often ride dirt roads on the pictured setup as well, and the Innerbarends are not spaced so narrowly as to make for sketchy control on those roads.
These are the basic 410 models which weigh in at 110g or so, but there is a superlight, carbon fiber model 411R, that weigh a scant 40g. I actually have a pair of the 411R I've never used; if anyone is interested to buy them, message me.
12-22-23, 10:12 AM
#32
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Another option that might be helpful. Standard touring bars allow a shorter reach that may be a good riding position. I use these on an old MTB and keep the bars at or below saddle level, so the position is not necessarily very upright.
The levers are a bit forward of the grips to allow my hands to shift forward for some out of the saddle riding positions (depends on the incline). The forward bends are similar in location and use to the hoods position on a drop bar.
Otto
The levers are a bit forward of the grips to allow my hands to shift forward for some out of the saddle riding positions (depends on the incline). The forward bends are similar in location and use to the hoods position on a drop bar.
Otto
12-23-23, 07:25 AM
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Most of my bikes are now upright or riser. Everyone says there are more positions for your hands with drop bar, might be true but I find my hands are always on the hoods.
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12-23-23, 12:33 PM
#34
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This is what I've observed with all of my friends who ride drops and most others I see on the road. The exceptions are the handful of triathlete types I see who do ride down on their aero bars with nice flat back. Been there. Done that. Not going back.
12-23-23, 01:42 PM
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Exactly what problems are you having? What positions cause you the most pain? Are you using thick or thin bars? Where do you usually place your hands during your rides? Do you wear gloves and are they padded?
I went to Bull Horn bars after losing my ability to get into the drops...
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01-01-24, 09:49 PM
#36
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I certainly appreciate all of your responses and advice. I have read through all of your post's at least twice and all of them offer some great advice. I just ordered the Aero Bars that Trakhack posted about on Amazon. I figured for $26.00 I can see if these help. The new medication has not really kicked in yet but I'll keep pushing forward and see how that goes. I know it's probably not much for you guys but I did 36.8 miles today and that is a good ride for me. I really felt it after not riding for 2 weeks. I have to get ready for the Tour de Cure coming up in March. Thank you again for all of your replies and Happy New Years everyone, boomer.
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01-04-24, 05:11 PM
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As others have said. Nobody here can really know what will work for you. These things are individual and personal. But I do think it is reasonable to suggest you try options with multiple possible hand positions. I think that most people will agree that the ability to change hand positions during a long ride is generally helpful in relieving hand fatigue. So it seems likely that this would help with RA as well. And the more options, the more likely it is that you will find a particularly good positions/grip that is easier on your RA.
I noticed that most road riders seldom use their drops and spend most of their time more upright on the hoods. So I started experimenting with flat bars and had the idea of using MTB bar ends toward the middle of the handlebar as mini aero bars. The idea was to provide an additional hand position and a narrow more aero position without having to bend over a lot. I finally ended up with the setup pictured below. Its an older Scott AT4-Pro MTB Aero bar with the bar ends added. I've found this to be a nice setup - for me. I don't want to get low and crane my neck up to see forward. I'm done with that.
I'm not suggesting that you try to copy this setup. But I do encourage you to experiment. It seems that there are more and more handlebar options available these days as more and more people find themselves unhappy with traditional bars. Heck there are even variations on the drop bars that have a shallower and wider drop, flatter bar tops, etc. So take note of your pain points and try some stuff out. Experimenting can get pricey. So cruising Craigslist and other used channels can help mitigate the costs. I think these Scott AT4 bars cost me $20. Maybe you know other riders who have tried stuff and have bars you can try out?
I noticed that most road riders seldom use their drops and spend most of their time more upright on the hoods. So I started experimenting with flat bars and had the idea of using MTB bar ends toward the middle of the handlebar as mini aero bars. The idea was to provide an additional hand position and a narrow more aero position without having to bend over a lot. I finally ended up with the setup pictured below. Its an older Scott AT4-Pro MTB Aero bar with the bar ends added. I've found this to be a nice setup - for me. I don't want to get low and crane my neck up to see forward. I'm done with that.
I'm not suggesting that you try to copy this setup. But I do encourage you to experiment. It seems that there are more and more handlebar options available these days as more and more people find themselves unhappy with traditional bars. Heck there are even variations on the drop bars that have a shallower and wider drop, flatter bar tops, etc. So take note of your pain points and try some stuff out. Experimenting can get pricey. So cruising Craigslist and other used channels can help mitigate the costs. I think these Scott AT4 bars cost me $20. Maybe you know other riders who have tried stuff and have bars you can try out?
Best regards
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01-05-24, 01:11 PM
#38
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I really like that setup that you have Jay. There are so many ways to get comfortable with it. I pity the moose or deer that runs in front of you with it.
01-05-24, 06:18 PM
#39
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OP: You know the best as to which joints and movements cause pain, so you need to find a position that is comfortable enough for you.
As others have already pointed out, a flat handlebar will be more limiting than a variety of others, which allow you to change your hand position after 10 min or whatever time span works for you.
Consulting a bike fitter is an excellent idea but if budgetary constraints prevent you from it, go a locally owned bike shop, where they sell new as well as used bicycles. I am fairly sure, if you get there during a time when they are less busy (avoid weekends), they will be happy to let you try various bikes in your size range and may even be willing to make adjustments to suit your needs.
If they are too busy the first time you visit them, ask them when would be a good time/day, set an appointment around a little before lunch time, and show up with a hot pizza. I’m sure they will help. Besides the food bribe, most bicycle mechanics are really helpful people.
As others have already pointed out, a flat handlebar will be more limiting than a variety of others, which allow you to change your hand position after 10 min or whatever time span works for you.
Consulting a bike fitter is an excellent idea but if budgetary constraints prevent you from it, go a locally owned bike shop, where they sell new as well as used bicycles. I am fairly sure, if you get there during a time when they are less busy (avoid weekends), they will be happy to let you try various bikes in your size range and may even be willing to make adjustments to suit your needs.
If they are too busy the first time you visit them, ask them when would be a good time/day, set an appointment around a little before lunch time, and show up with a hot pizza. I’m sure they will help. Besides the food bribe, most bicycle mechanics are really helpful people.
Last edited by Alan K; 01-05-24 at 07:12 PM.
01-05-24, 06:26 PM
#40
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Thanks. The front of the AT-4 bar has round shapes and the inboard bar ends reside inside the perimeter of the AT-4. So wildlife is pretty safe. Of course moose would be sure win regardless were I to hit one.
01-05-24, 06:37 PM
#41
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That's been my experience as well. It probably helps if you are enthusiastic about bicycles. Ages ago, Mr. Bill at Landis Cyclery in Phoenix spent gobs of time helping me customize a folding bike. He seemed to enjoy the idea of making the little thing go fast as much as I did.
01-06-24, 12:01 AM
#42
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01-14-24, 07:25 PM
#44
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My bike’s bars are not “straight”. Think it may have identity issues.
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01-15-24, 07:04 AM
#45
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I find narrower flat bars with ergo style grips work universally well between all my bikes... The narrow bars bring the elbows in, which puts less weight on my hands and transfers support to my core... Elbows in and upright feels the best to me... Can ride for miles without needing to move my hands because they aren't wide and spread out like a tripod...
01-15-24, 08:04 AM
#46
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You're much better getting some hands-on advice here, as your comfort is going to be very depending on your condition, hands, etc. Either via getting a bike fit or visiting a sports physiotherapist.
Your local bike shop with stock should be able to let you try a few bikes out to see what's the most comfortable in reality.
If looking at new bikes I'd probably be looking towards hybrids (flat bar bikes based on mountain bikes but lighter) or gravel bikes (road bikes but tweaked for poorer roads - so a bit more upright, wider bars, bigger tires - and generally more comfortable to use as well as having easier gearing).
Your existing Crossroads is probably going to be a lot more comfortable though, and I wouldn't be overly concerned about the weight unless you're trying to get faster or go much further. a 2-3kg weight difference isn't going to make that much difference especially if it's more comfortable to use.
Your local bike shop with stock should be able to let you try a few bikes out to see what's the most comfortable in reality.
If looking at new bikes I'd probably be looking towards hybrids (flat bar bikes based on mountain bikes but lighter) or gravel bikes (road bikes but tweaked for poorer roads - so a bit more upright, wider bars, bigger tires - and generally more comfortable to use as well as having easier gearing).
Your existing Crossroads is probably going to be a lot more comfortable though, and I wouldn't be overly concerned about the weight unless you're trying to get faster or go much further. a 2-3kg weight difference isn't going to make that much difference especially if it's more comfortable to use.
01-15-24, 08:24 AM
#47
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I put the Aero Bars that I purchased on the bike and they helped quite a bit. I only took one ride with them as there has been weather issues, and traveling for a funeral that have kept me from riding. I stopped by a Trek store and looked a a Domane Al in the 56 cm frame size and it felt quite different (better) from my 54 cm Allez. I'll keep pushing on with my current bike and see how it is with some of the changes I have made. The medication and infusions that I am on is starting to work so that is helping. I sure appreciate all of your responses, boomer.
01-15-24, 10:15 AM
#48
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I’m glad that helped. Before you buy a different bike, you do need to understand the geometry differences, in your case one important dimension is stack.
Your 54 Allez is 561 and the 56 Domain is 591. Your Crossroads is 605.
Basically the higher the stack, the more upright. Older bikes with quill stems allowed the rider to tweak the stack (so to speak, since if effects the handle bar height not the actual frame stack height) by raising and lowering the stem.
If I were you, I’d ride the Crossroads on your 20 mile ride and see how it goes. If the higher bars seem to be better, I’d flip the stem, or get a new stem to raise the bars. This may impact the cable/housing length, so plan on replacing them.
The last piece is saddle tilt. My road bike, tops below saddle, the tilt is pretty level. My mountain bike bar above the saddle, the nose is tilted up slightly. I’m not a fitter, so you can ignore what I think. But saddle tilt can impact how much weight is on the arms/hands. "Generally" nose down will shift more weight to arms and nose up will move the weight to your rear end. I tend to tilt up till it hurts. Well not really till it hurts, but I have a micro adjust clamp on my seat post, where I can make tweaks on a new saddle while out riding until I get it set.
John
Your 54 Allez is 561 and the 56 Domain is 591. Your Crossroads is 605.
Basically the higher the stack, the more upright. Older bikes with quill stems allowed the rider to tweak the stack (so to speak, since if effects the handle bar height not the actual frame stack height) by raising and lowering the stem.
If I were you, I’d ride the Crossroads on your 20 mile ride and see how it goes. If the higher bars seem to be better, I’d flip the stem, or get a new stem to raise the bars. This may impact the cable/housing length, so plan on replacing them.
The last piece is saddle tilt. My road bike, tops below saddle, the tilt is pretty level. My mountain bike bar above the saddle, the nose is tilted up slightly. I’m not a fitter, so you can ignore what I think. But saddle tilt can impact how much weight is on the arms/hands. "Generally" nose down will shift more weight to arms and nose up will move the weight to your rear end. I tend to tilt up till it hurts. Well not really till it hurts, but I have a micro adjust clamp on my seat post, where I can make tweaks on a new saddle while out riding until I get it set.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 01-15-24 at 11:49 AM.
01-15-24, 11:58 PM
#49
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Another option that might be helpful. Standard touring bars allow a shorter reach that may be a good riding position. I use these on an old MTB and keep the bars at or below saddle level, so the position is not necessarily very upright.
The levers are a bit forward of the grips to allow my hands to shift forward for some out of the saddle riding positions (depends on the incline). The forward bends are similar in location and use to the hoods position on a drop bar.
Otto
The levers are a bit forward of the grips to allow my hands to shift forward for some out of the saddle riding positions (depends on the incline). The forward bends are similar in location and use to the hoods position on a drop bar.
Otto
My Cross Check will go anywhere.The VO Tourist bars are very comfortable, and have worked where ever I take it!
01-20-24, 08:21 PM
#50
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So here is where I am with this. After several hundred miles on the Specialized Allez, I have been to a Trek store and they had this kind of machine that takes your picture and tells you what size bike you fit. Probably works for someone just looking for a bike to cruise around with but for someone a little more serious that wants to ride a lot I think it might be a little on the gimmicky side. I don't know maybe it is accurate you guys tell me. Anyways it said I should ride a 56 cm. My current bike is a 54 cm but my old Fuji was a 56. I have my heart set on a 56 as that is what I used ride. I stopped by another bike shop which is local and not to far from me and was looking at a Cannondale when the owner came over and started talking to me. I told him that I was looking to trade my Specialized 54 in for a 56. He asked me how tall I was ( 5' 8" ) and he said that a 54 cm is my size. We talked for quite awhile and he brought up getting a professional fit. I recall in this thread that MSTATEGLFR recommended that I do this, thank you for that advice. Anyways I signed up for a professional fit this Wednesday and we'll see what happens. Thank you to all of you that have replied to this thread I really appreciate it, boomer.